Saito FG-60R3
11-02-2016, 11:48 AM
#976
I notice that the saito ring uses the 90 degree angle pipes that you would use with the stock pipes. This would allow for better fitment and reduce any stress on welds and cylinders. If the keleo one is out by a tiny amount, it would put side pressure on the welds and the cylinder. I am less and less interested in an exhaust note than I am on a reliable engine.
And I get the part about a reliable engine, but I want it all and I want it now!
Last edited by slither; 11-02-2016 at 11:55 AM.
11-02-2016, 10:15 PM
#977
Originally Posted by slither;[URL="tel:12273615"
12273615[/URL]]That is a question for which I do not have an answer. However, I did wonder about that, myself. Maybe marksp can provide an answer, as he has had the mod done. I wonder if he got parts back?
11-03-2016, 05:02 PM
#978
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lewisville, TX
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I am have trouble getting over 5000 RPMs with my FG60r3. Running proper fuel mix and so far ran through 1 gallon of fuel on the motor stand.
Low needle set without hesitation during transition. High needle peaked with one click to the rich side. 22x10 XOAR prop
Any thoughts?
Low needle set without hesitation during transition. High needle peaked with one click to the rich side. 22x10 XOAR prop
Any thoughts?
Last edited by DarthFlyer; 11-03-2016 at 05:04 PM.
11-03-2016, 11:20 PM
#979
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Dubai, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
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Do you have any idea how many turns out you are on the LS? Could be that it needs to lean up more. It may seem like it's running properly, but when you lean that bad boy up, it jumps into life.
Not saying that's the problem, but that sounds like what I would try firstz
Not saying that's the problem, but that sounds like what I would try firstz
11-05-2016, 02:19 AM
#985
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lewisville, TX
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You were correct, I was facing the prop. Manual clearly states "Pilot's View" which is obviously behind the engine. I do have #3 and #2 reversed. Thanks so much for the help!!! Cannot believe I made such a rookie mistake, humble pie for me.
11-05-2016, 03:18 AM
#987
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I really never thought anyone could be that stupid......until I did it myself! Twice....did it when I removed it from the test stand and put it on the plane lol.
Isn't it awesome how it transitions and runs so much better when you've got it right?😄
Isn't it awesome how it transitions and runs so much better when you've got it right?😄
11-05-2016, 01:33 PM
#990
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lewisville, TX
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Thanks so much for all the help! It is running great and meeting my expectations. Soon to go on my Giant Top Flite Corsair
video link
https://youtu.be/kwDvkEn3v1U
video link
https://youtu.be/kwDvkEn3v1U
11-06-2016, 10:33 PM
#992
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Radford, I don't deny that there is a lot of 'spew' coming out there, and your Exhibit is very clear and confidence building. I had the same situation with my engine, but the amount tapered off after a few flights (as one would expect after break in) and I also was never sure whether it was contributed by the amount that I injected in before running it in, as well as the excessive build up from the super rich running in period.
Just to be clear, I am looking for EVERY excuse to continue using Redline.
Just so everyone knows what I have been up to with this....I have recently been running my engine, and have done 3 ground runs for tuning purposes, and three flights flights to follow. I have connected my Jeti temp sensors and have one sensor on Cyl 1, and another on Cyl2. In all the runs and flights, the temps between the 2 cyls has been within 10C of each other and highest temps were 165C in flight, and I believe the average was around 150C. The high temps were during a vertical climb, and the subsequent dive, brought them right back to 150C and lower, by the time I was out of the dive. Cruising around, with some roll's, loop's, a bit of knife-edge, some inverted flight at probably between half and 3/4 throttle, and the temps stayed pretty constant, and within 10C of each other.
This was all going very well until I couldn't get it cold started on Friday morning, when I did get it running, No1 was not firing as it should. Intermittent and it was the coldest of all 3 cyl's, definitely not typical of this engine. I changed plugs, and checked the valve gaps on No1. Plug was ok, a little darker than it should be, but the gap on the plug seemed excessive. I had a few plugs lying around, and replaced it. I got it started again, but the engine is battling to draw fuel and stay 'lit'. I put it down to the fact that the replacement tube between carb and backplate, which was turned down from Teflon, is not making a good enough seal, so that will be replaced by a Bakelite version this week. Will try again this weekend.
All of this was done with Klotz Super Techniplate at 20:1, 22x10 Aerobatic prop in ambient temps of around 35C.
Notably, I have been storing the plane with a paper towel in the exhaust, and there is a lot of dark residue, oily carbon but also there is a lot of 'yellow' seeping into the paper towel, which I assume to be the castor. All very interesting, and I am probably doing more harm than good with all my tinkering, but hey, I suppose its part of what I enjoy doing.
I am not pushing an agenda here, and suggest you don't do what I do, but I will put it out here as interest alone....
Kind regards.
Andy
Just to be clear, I am looking for EVERY excuse to continue using Redline.
Just so everyone knows what I have been up to with this....I have recently been running my engine, and have done 3 ground runs for tuning purposes, and three flights flights to follow. I have connected my Jeti temp sensors and have one sensor on Cyl 1, and another on Cyl2. In all the runs and flights, the temps between the 2 cyls has been within 10C of each other and highest temps were 165C in flight, and I believe the average was around 150C. The high temps were during a vertical climb, and the subsequent dive, brought them right back to 150C and lower, by the time I was out of the dive. Cruising around, with some roll's, loop's, a bit of knife-edge, some inverted flight at probably between half and 3/4 throttle, and the temps stayed pretty constant, and within 10C of each other.
This was all going very well until I couldn't get it cold started on Friday morning, when I did get it running, No1 was not firing as it should. Intermittent and it was the coldest of all 3 cyl's, definitely not typical of this engine. I changed plugs, and checked the valve gaps on No1. Plug was ok, a little darker than it should be, but the gap on the plug seemed excessive. I had a few plugs lying around, and replaced it. I got it started again, but the engine is battling to draw fuel and stay 'lit'. I put it down to the fact that the replacement tube between carb and backplate, which was turned down from Teflon, is not making a good enough seal, so that will be replaced by a Bakelite version this week. Will try again this weekend.
All of this was done with Klotz Super Techniplate at 20:1, 22x10 Aerobatic prop in ambient temps of around 35C.
Notably, I have been storing the plane with a paper towel in the exhaust, and there is a lot of dark residue, oily carbon but also there is a lot of 'yellow' seeping into the paper towel, which I assume to be the castor. All very interesting, and I am probably doing more harm than good with all my tinkering, but hey, I suppose its part of what I enjoy doing.
I am not pushing an agenda here, and suggest you don't do what I do, but I will put it out here as interest alone....
Kind regards.
Andy
11-07-2016, 05:03 AM
#993
My Feedback: (3)
Radford, I've been flying Redline since the start too, have about 3 gallons through the engine, all of that besides the first two liters for breakin were in the air. Lots of black shiznit all over the bottom of my plane too at the end of the day too.
I wonder how many people believe that Redline oil isn't suitable for the FG-60 based on how many times it's been posted on the internet?
I have used 20:1 Redline only in my engine and so far so good. I have run several gallons of gas through the engine. Every time I finish flying I have to wipe lots of oil off the bottom of the cowl that has been pumped out the crankcase vent....lots of oil is going through my engine.
Maybe if your friend the expert says Redline is OK we can put this rumor to bed?
I have used 20:1 Redline only in my engine and so far so good. I have run several gallons of gas through the engine. Every time I finish flying I have to wipe lots of oil off the bottom of the cowl that has been pumped out the crankcase vent....lots of oil is going through my engine.
Maybe if your friend the expert says Redline is OK we can put this rumor to bed?
11-08-2016, 04:06 PM
#997
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lewisville, TX
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I have been using Redline to break-in my new engine. Of course ran it rich as heck during the first three tanks. Even now after 2 gallons, I too see the black gunk all over the test stand. Since the Carb-Stack will go slightly into the firewall of my corsair, i am hoping it does not mess up the inside of tank compartment. I know others have the stack inside the firewall such as the TF P47 etc. Wonder if anyone else has experienced problems after break-in. Getting ready to clean the engine up and mount to the plane.
11-08-2016, 08:50 PM
#999
11-09-2016, 02:07 PM
#1000
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guess I'll chime in, mine is now mounted in my Extreme Flight 91 YAK. I got one the 60's that had Ray English mods done by Saito, I than sent to him for break in and do another mod of his on the carb. I am using the Morgan Fuels synthetic oil, @ 20:1 this was the oil that Ray said in his opinion was the only oil to use. I run redline in everything else, but since I got a lot invested in this motor I figured I would listen to him. hope to maid this plane in the next week or two. are most of you guys starting this by hand. I'm going to leave the cowl off for the first several flight until I get this thing dialed in. pretty nervous about this. good info here so hope this will go well.