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Saito FG-60R3

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Old 01-16-2017, 03:08 PM
  #1201  
Joe1199
 
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Is anyone using a gas spinner on this engine? I used just the prop to run my FG60 in, now I'm getting ready to fly and I have a gas 4 bolt hole spinner, obviously the engine has a glow style knurled mount so there isn't anything to hold the prop in place, it's smooth metal onto smooth wood!

thanks
joe
Old 01-16-2017, 04:04 PM
  #1202  
slither
 
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That is one of the mods available from Ray English... I think he said he puts pins in the thrust washer to the prop prevent spinning on the shaft.
Old 01-17-2017, 04:19 AM
  #1203  
aquaskiman
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I ran a spinner and had no trouble at all

Last edited by aquaskiman; 01-17-2017 at 06:29 AM.
Old 01-17-2017, 06:04 AM
  #1204  
TomH
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Same here, I run a TruTurn on mine, just get the correct adapter to fit the shaft and you should be good to go. TruTurn Adapter has a prop nut and a secondary jam nut. works great.
T
Old 01-22-2017, 03:36 AM
  #1205  
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Hi Roger
They dont ship to europe, that sucks!!!!
Old 01-22-2017, 03:37 AM
  #1206  
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There has to be a dealer in europe that has, piston rings in stock!! Anybody????
Old 01-22-2017, 01:47 PM
  #1207  
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Originally Posted by ptdan
There has to be a dealer in europe that has, piston rings in stock!! Anybody????
ptdan, did you try this link, one of the European distributors for Saito engines.

http://macgregor.co.uk/saito.htm

http://macgregor.co.uk/saito/fg60r3p.htm

Last edited by ForcesR; 01-22-2017 at 01:50 PM.
Old 01-23-2017, 06:53 PM
  #1208  
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Hi guys, I have been changing things up on my P-47. I got my FG-60 back from horizon. I have re done my exhaust so that I could use the factory exhaust and reworked my baffling. Probably the most complicated baffle ever but it seems to work pretty well. I made pieces that hug the sides of the cylinders. Hopefully making it more efficient to remove heat. I may change it still. My exhaust is like a 3 in to one deal. I used some plumbing stuff to build it. I wanted to use the stock exhaust since there is a theory that the Keleo Exhaust ring is putting side forces on the cylinders. Even tho the stock exhaust tubes are quiet, my set up is louder than the Keleo. I had to find a way to extend the exhaust out of the cowling as the stock is too short. I do have a weight penalty in all this. I moved my batteries all the way to the back of my rack system. I ended up putting in 3/4 oz in the tail just behind the tail wheel. I flew it this past weekend and decided to add the tail weight. Interested to see how it flies with the tail weight. I may up it to 1-1/4. The baffling is mounted to the engine, just like full scale airplanes. I have thin craft foam glued to the inside of the cowling so that it seals the gap between the cowling and baffle.
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Old 01-23-2017, 07:20 PM
  #1209  
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Cool! Looks quite tight around the jug... I wonder if it might restrict airflow. How are the temps?
Old 01-25-2017, 06:12 AM
  #1210  
ptdan
 
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Hi ForcesR
Thanks for your reply, still no stock!!!! Ive email them, so lets see what happens
Old 02-02-2017, 02:47 AM
  #1211  
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Did anyone use Valvoline synpower 2T in this engine??? Any comments..

Harris
Old 02-02-2017, 05:54 AM
  #1212  
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I did and blew a cylinder :-). I know another person with same result. I can't say problem is the oil but I stopped using it after the incident. I am using castrol now..
Old 02-02-2017, 06:21 AM
  #1213  
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Originally Posted by slither
Cool! Looks quite tight around the jug... I wonder if it might restrict airflow. How are the temps?
Hi guys. On a 60* day I did notice that the FG60 did warm up pretty quick. After various throttle setting and some WOT, the idle temps would settle to 173*. In flight at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle the temps would hover around 280*. With full throttle during climbs and full throttle passes the temps would peak at 312* but would cool off to 280 ish as soon as I would go back to 3/4 throttle. I may revise the baffle so that the side pieces are more squared off and not curved. My goal is to get cool air to the back of the cylinders. On full scale planes there are pieces of aluminum that actually hug/touch the cylinders so that the air has no place to go except thru the cooling fins. I don't think this really can be done on the FG60 because I believe the cooling fins are too small. So I continue my search of getting cool air to the back side of the cylinders.

On a another note, since I got the engine back from horizon the static RPMs went from 6100 to 6350 with the xoar 22x10 prop. I'm not sure if it is because horizon reset the timing or if it's that I'm not running the keleo exhaust. Speaking of the exhaust, my 3-1 tip sure adds a bark to the stock exhaust. I think it sounds better than the keleo. It's has more of a raw exhaust sound now. I like it.
MD
Old 02-02-2017, 04:34 PM
  #1214  
TomH
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How about a short video so we can hear it
Old 02-02-2017, 05:03 PM
  #1215  
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As soon as I can, will do. I'm trying not to run the engine in temps below 55-60*. A quick look at my local weather and next Friday / Saturday looks promising.
Old 02-03-2017, 09:33 AM
  #1216  
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anyone try the APC 20x12? i'm looking for a 12 pitch prop that will turn at least in the low 6000 rpm range which is where I turn my 22x10 prop at.
Old 02-06-2017, 03:21 PM
  #1217  
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Hi

Has anyone did the two mods that Ray English recommends and noticed any difference in the way your engine preforms?
Old 02-06-2017, 06:05 PM
  #1218  
slither
 
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Originally Posted by drsugarbeet
Hi

Has anyone did the two mods that Ray English recommends and noticed any difference in the way your engine preforms?
Look back in the thread... someone here has said that he gained RPM with the mods.
Old 02-11-2017, 06:20 PM
  #1219  
drsugarbeet
 
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Hi does anyone know what oil Ray English recommends to use in this engine?
Old 02-11-2017, 08:03 PM
  #1220  
radfordc
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Originally Posted by drsugarbeet
Hi does anyone know what oil Ray English recommends to use in this engine?
This: http://www.horizonhobby.com/product/...quart-coocp15q
Old 02-12-2017, 02:20 AM
  #1221  
luckymacy
 
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You'll read that he likes a couple different oils. The one below is what I decided to use from his mentions....

I'm using this http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXS622&P=8

My CHTs, RPMs and needle settings weren't measurably affected as far as I could tell when I switched from redline to this blend. After 2 or 3 gallons of running, I'm still only seeing about a consistent average of 6300 RPMs using a xoar 20x10 CF prop. This thing really only seems to burn about 30cc a minute at full throttle when leaned just like the manual suggests. It takes a LOT of flying to burn through a couple of gallons of fuel mixture! I could probably drop down to 14 ounce tank and have a safe amount left over after 8 to 10 minutes of flying. Carrying around a larger fuel tank with this engine is just carrying around dead weight unless you like flying for 20 minutes at a time...
Old 02-12-2017, 07:35 AM
  #1222  
radfordc
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[QUOTE=TomH;12275822 I am using the Morgan Fuels synthetic oil, @ 20:1 this was the oil that Ray said in his opinion was the only oil to use.[/QUOTE]

How many different oils does Ray say are: "the only one to use"?
Old 02-12-2017, 02:19 PM
  #1223  
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Originally Posted by radfordc
How many different oils does Ray say are: "the only one to use"?
Thanks for your help, I broke my engine in using AMSOIL Saber 100 2 t\stroke synthetic mixed at 20:1 I followed the instructions opening the main needle 4 full turns , I even injected some full strength Saber 100 into the crank case before the first start. I never ran my engine over 3900 rpm and I put 3 24oz tanks at this condition through the engine one the ground before it was leaned out and three short flights made on the TF P47 Razorback. I fly in Colorado at 5000 ft and a 22x10 Xoar turns 5700-5800, I read that Ray English could do a couple of modifications to improve the carburetor air flow and intake flow and get 500-600 more rpm from the engine. I shipped the FG60R3 to Ray and got a call that I may have overheated the engine and he wanted to pull a cylinder to inspect the crank and con rods,. Ray called me back and said that I was lucky that my engine was almost ready to seize, he said that I had used the wrong oil in the engine and that is what caused this problem, Ray replaced the brass crank bushing and re assembled the cylinder, I should get the engine back next week. I bet I hadn't a hour of time on this engine. I think I will use the Morgan Oil you mentioned, I suppose since Ray replaced the main crank bushing I should run the engine rich and break it in again. Any one else had a problem like this?
Old 02-12-2017, 05:23 PM
  #1224  
luckymacy
 
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Originally Posted by radfordc
How many different oils does Ray say are: "the only one to use"?
Good question. He's probably too smart to say 'the only one" unless he's 'wearing a team Horizon hat' at the moment...Horizon carries Morgan lineup and their arch enemy Tower carries Klotz's varieties. The two appropriate oils often mentioned are very similar so in makeup, meh. I'd buy either one without giving it a second thought. When I had the Saito in the Yak late last year I tried like hell to kill the engine. Leaned it out, extended verticals, tried to hover (it was just about 1:1 power to weight), lomcevaked and tumbled the crap out of the plane and it just kept on running like a swiss watch. And that's with me breaking it in on redline with redlines break-in additive before going to Klotz. I replaced Tar Heel with the Razorback, put the saito in it and I'm going to keep on trying to kill it so I can justify getting the FG-90...


https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=396

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=402

and from the saito manual

●[Example of oil recommendation] ・ Klotz KL-200 Original Techniplate ・ Morgans Cool Power 'Blue' Synthetic Lubricant etc.
Old 02-12-2017, 10:26 PM
  #1225  
marksp
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Originally Posted by luckymacy
... This thing really only seems to burn about 30cc a minute at full throttle when leaned just like the manual suggests. It takes a LOT of flying to burn through a couple of gallons of fuel mixture! I could probably drop down to 14 ounce tank and have a safe amount left over ...
Indeed! I've fitted a 14oz tank which is plenty for my 10 minute timer, plus reserve.


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