the pope

I think rad has some posts on his probs on rcgroups if Im not wrong . Cheers

slither

Sorry to see your loss, rad. Hope you can salvage it!

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

More info about X Series lock out here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...is-Rx-lock-out

My tale of woe starts at post #9054 in this thread: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...inning/page604

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

You can read the links above for more details. The Cliff Notes version is that I had updated the X8R firmware to the new beta version and had a lockout two flights later. I had redundant batteries/switches, and did a range check with engine running. All seemed well until the moment of death.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

It's only money! I'm fortunate to be able to deal with the loss. I tell people all the time that if you aren't prepared to lose the whole thing in an instant you need a different hobby. If you really want pain look at the videos of the turbine jets crashing.

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

OK, I'll admit it, I'm confused which one to use. One recommended from the Saito manual (Klotz, Morgan's), one from the engine distributor (Redline) and one from RE (Klotz, Morgan's). Ray suggests Klotz or Morgans based on availability.



For the record, I use Redline (50:1 + 1 oz Seafoam) in everything from my big Moki S250 radial to my small DLE20, and Stihl HP Ultra in all of my Stihl powered tools.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

Close your eyes and pick one. They're all good.

HARRIS-G

I decided to baffle the engine so the air flows arround the fins and drop the temps of the engine.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

That looks good. I've destroyed two Keleo exhausts and don't want to buy another. I haven't seen plumbing parts here in the USA that look like the parts you used. I assume plain copper fittings will work as well. Do you have the dimensions of the one you made? Any more info about how you did that.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

OD is .625" and wall thickness is .049". So ID is .527" These are the dimension of the aluminum tubing used to construct the ring....bending the ring causes some distortion and changes the OD and ID slightly.

HARRIS-G

Hello

Thank you for the measurment you took for me.

My exhaust made from steel tube 22mm and 90 degree tubes also 22mm. Only the final tube that drive the fumes out of the ring is made from 25mm. When you take the parts you must cut the straight tubes in right length and silversolder them all together to made the ring, after that you must silversolder the straight tube that drive fumes out and final and very carefully you must mark and drill holes to the ring so you can connect the ring with the stock flex tube, using also the L headers as seen in my photos.

If you want more infos just ask me.....



Parts taken from here: (www.krumscheid-metallwaren.de/neu/shop.php?lang=de)

(4pieces) Straight tube 22mm (part number 1452) *220mm long*

(4pieces) 90 degree tube 22mm (part number 1450)

(1piece) Straight tube 25mm (part number 1552) *220mm long*

Harris

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

Here's the link in English http://www.krumscheid-metallwaren.de...op.php?lang=en

757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

Speaking of baffles, I was pretty baffled for quite awhile trying to come up with a good way to do it. Basically I cut a circle out of 1/4 inch ply to fit snugly over the cam towers, then using lite ply built the rest of it to fit inside my P47 cowl. Works good and it's easy on, easy off when doing maintenance of the engine.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

Was it difficult to silver solder the flex tubes to the steel ring? Any tricks for doing this? I assume you must do it with the L headers installed in the engine.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

Thanks for the great idea.

HARRIS-G

No it wasn't difficult but because of the spiral shape of the flex tube it's very easy to leave pin holes if you don't be patience with the silver solder......

Yes you must first put the L headers and point them to ring. A smaller tube that you can put nside the header can show you the exact point of making holes to connect the ring with the tubes.

HARRIS-G

So Inside diameter of Keleo ring is 0,527 (13,3mm)

You know that the inside diameter of each stock tube is around 8-9mm??? I think that it is too small for this engine and at high RPM causes problems with to much back pressure of exhaust fumes making the engine orerate with higher temps. I believe that if someone measure temps and RPM with the Keleo ring and next put on the stock exhaust tubes the temps will be lower and the RPM will be increased.

slither

I think Ray had Kelvin redesign the ring for this engine to have larger tubing, the same size as the FG84R3 exhaust ring that he made... there might be a big difference between the two. I am getting my engine back from Ray tomorrow, and I will try to measure the tubing size.

luckymacy

3 out of 4.... I broke mine in using the redline but also with redline's new engine break in additive so that'd be the 4th bottle. Then I switched to Klotz. So far so good, knock on wood. No baffles, Keleo exhaust, relatively lean running...

khoysagk

My Feedback: (2)

I made that same exhaust except I used all 22mm diameter parts. Ordered the parts from Krumscheid and paid around $50 delivered to the States. Make sure you order their silver solder as well and it's pretty easy to use. The flux around the solder is very important for a good flow. All you need for heat is a propane torch. I made the ring first, then laid it under the engine and checked what distance I need for the flex tubes. I think I cut them about 1 3/4" long IIRC. Then screwed the shortened tubes to the engine and marked the ring for the holes. Made the holes and soldered the flex tubes to the ring. Also, I ordered 1 stick of solder and it was barely enough for everything. I'd order 2 just to be safe.

308jockey

I finally finished up a Space Walker and we test flew it yesterday with an FG60R3 and a keleo exhaust. I've been at this for a long time but this was my first time running a radial or any multi cylinder for that matter. It started pretty easily and ran beautifully. We only put two flights on it as it was a brand new plane and we had a direct crosswind. I was impressed with both the plane and the engine. Next project is a Four Star 120 and the 30cc version of this engine. Everything is in hand, I'll probably start building tomorrow. There should be a photo attached here.

Rick H.

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

Very cool!

Cheers

elmshoot

My Feedback: (6)

Kelo makes a baffle, lazer cut out of Plywood. I made a copy onto another piece of plywood just in case I move to another plane.
It doesn't have a piece to fit between the valve covers Ill fabricate something to fit there.
If i can get down in the shop and finish hacking on my F6F Hellcat to fit this engine. This will be the third engine for this plane so the fire wall looks like Swiss cheese!
Sparky

luckymacy

I think open engine planes like this and stearmans are the low fuss way to fly these engines with the least worries.

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

I agree,heat inside the cowl seems to be a problem.....you gotta get the heat out.