slither

Try swapping the #3 plug with the others and see if the drop out follows the plug...

Jeffryz

good idea. #2 and #3 have the same gap, I will swap those two.

Tx

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Iridium is good for glow plugs. It's better than the conventional glow plugs from what I remember. I don't believe it's essential but it's an improvement.

Try your low end adjustment to solve the #3 drop out at idle. You might be a little too rich.
I don't recall having any issues breaking in my FG60 on a test stand. I set my settings per the Mfg's instructions.

slither

OK, good. Are those two gapped differently than #1? Try number one down there as well and see how that works out... keep us posted as to your results.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

All the plugs should be gaped the same.

Jeffryz

ForcesR

The LSN is set to rich, it has to be leaned out. Begin leaning the LSN by 2 clicks, if # 3 drops out during idle, lean the LSN by another click; keep doing one click lean at a time until # 3 holds at idle. The LSN at the factory setting is always set rich for engine break-in. Saito engines are very temper mental when it comes to fine tuning! Take your time tuning the engine slowly, one click at a time, you'll get there eventually and you will be happy and satisfied when you do!

Jeffryz

ForcesR

JJ, the factory setting IAW the manual is 6-7 turns! LSN setting of 6 is still rich, as mentioned lean the LSN 1 click at a time until you get a stable idle and # 3 does not drop off. I can't quite remember the exact setting I had to put mine at to get a stable idle but I think it was 5 turns + 45 minutes. You have to be patient, you may get frustrated with the slow process but if you stick with the procedure you will eventually reach the stable idle sweet spot!

Roger

cathurga

My engines weren't happy until I was down to about 4.5 - 5 turns, I richened them up a little after that to sacrifice the low idle but to have it running a little rich. The LSN affects most of the rev range, so once you have a good steady idle, and good transition, richen the LSN a little for safety. You sound like you are way too rich.

Jeffryz

I warmed it up and did a 5k burn since that gives me the best heat balance at 100C each. #2 was slow to warm up this time. I then started slowly down on the LSN with the rpm at 3200. #3 cooled off as before. so it had a #1 at 80c, #2 at 60c and #3 at 40c. finally at 4.5 the rpm came up to 3400 and the #3 temp came up to 57. But after about 20 seconds it died. I had to open the LSN up to 5 for it to restart. I repeated the attempt with the HSN opened up by 4 clicks, same result. The air temp is about 15C. The throttle response was very bad too. max rpm is still at 6500. This was the last of gallon #2.
Since #2 is running colder than the other cylinders now, I will change out that spark plug. It was the one taken from #3 and it may just have to much carbon on it. I think I will check the valve clearances for good measure.

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

Finally got a few flights on Topflite P-47 Saito FG-60R3 with temp sensors on #1 & #3. Curious to get feedback on temps.



Setup FG-60R3 w/Saito titanium exhaust ring, RE mods, baffle, Xoar WWII 20x10x3 (not scale, but couldn't find a 4-blade setup that works). Idles low, revs are linear with 6300 max RPM on ground. Fuel - 15:1 Klotz KL-200 w/ 1 oz Seafoam/gal

Ambient temp was 88F

Is this a safe temp?

Timbers

My Feedback: (3)

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

Interesting video that seems to show a cooling fan installed inside the cowl to keep the radial temps in check.

sparky4lawndart

My Feedback: (10)

I have 2 of the FG60-R3's bought when they came out for a pair of TopFlite birds... They will consistently crack a cylinder and I go through the motions of sending them in to HH and eventually getting a fixed or replacement engine (this has happed 7 times across the 2 engines)

Sunday while flying my TF Wulf with the engine slightly rich (static 6K RPM) and flew for about 5 minutes only to have the #1 cylinder crack at the base, huge drop in power, but was able to get the plane on the deck w/o too much damage (it amazes me that the engine continues to idle with a cracked cylinder base). I called HH and they say they won't cover it under warranty. Frustrating!

I have DLE and DA engines that have hundreds of flights (maybe over a thousand on a DLE55RA that has been in multiple planes) yet I continue to try to get these saitos to be consistent, stable engines. Rant over!

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

Yep - by the time I land temps down to 232. Sounds & "feels" fine :-)

Jeffryz

I flew my fg60 yesterday with the cowl on for the first time. Sensor on exhaust header. This values were after 5 minute warm-up on the ground, static holding 5K rpm.
No cowl temp was about 90C (194f) on #1, with cowl temp was about 100C (212f) on #1. ambient outside temp was about 26C.(80f)
What telemetry system are you guys using. I have the spektrum tm1000 module. The loop temperature wire doesn't lend itself to fitting near the top of the head so I was going to wrap it around the exhaust pipe fitting. This only has one temp probe.
also, no info on how to connect to the saito rpm module. ( all three wires or just the signal?).
tx JJ

cathurga

Jeffry,

I am using JETI Systems equipment, and the temp telem comes with 2 loops. I put on one on cyl-1, and the other on cyl-2. I know what you mean about getting the sensors placed. With the loop setup, its not easy to install on the 4T engines as you have to get around the inlet manifild and the pushrod tupes. The only way to do it is to remove the cylinder.... OR....what did was I cut the loop, and then used a male and female servo connector (not the entire 3 pin connector, just th internal brass connectors) and then wrapped the sensor around the cylinder, and reconnected it with some shrink tube over....works like a charm, and you can take them off again when you want...

SrTelemaster150

Horizon Hobby is going t be the death of Saito due to their obsession with pushing these as gas engines when they were not designed as such from the outset.

757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

Been busy with other concerns, but finally got some time to "play" with the P47/FG60 a couple weeks ago. I've had difficulty getting it stay in tune reliably and deduced after fooling around with it for awhile that the low speed needle just wasn't acting right. ( easy to turn, not holding position). I removed the engine and tore down the carb to find that the low speed needle has a pretty sloppy fit where it threads into the barrel. I replaced the o ring with a new one, but it wasn't much better at holding/sealing it, so I added another one and that did it. (the throttle extension holds them in BTW). Got everything back together, fired it up, and got what seemed to be a good reliable and consistent tune.

Put two good flights on it the following day running the best it ever has. Good power and excellent response.

HakanH

aquaskiman

My Feedback: (46)

I sold my new engine that I received under warranty after saito telling me it was a one time replacement. meaning my 1.5 years left on there 3 yr warranty was no good.

009

My Feedback: (1)

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

Too much prop. I tried a four blade also....didn't work.

009

My Feedback: (1)