Didier

Thanks guys. It seems I am the only one using 2S Lipo and have ignition problems.
The shop where I bought the engine says now that Saito recommends to use only a small lipo (2S <1000mAh) or Life or regulating to 6.0V
Anyway, maybe the battery is in the end my problem although in the manual of Saito the battery must be between 6-9V.

757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

Hey Didier.... It shouldn't make any difference what chemistry battery type you use, volts is volts, period! I wouldn't think there'd be a problem with your choice of battery (2 cell LiPO, 2000 mahr... correct?), but perhaps there's a problem with that particular battery internally. I presume it's properly charged and balanced?

nalby

Maidened the Seagull P-47 today, Flys great, So I ran 1 gallon of 15-1 redline on the stand then 2 tanks of 20-1 on the stand, Started it up for the maiden, let it warm up, I was getting 5850- 5900 with a 22X10 zoar ww2 prop, when I landed it was at 6000- 6010 Does that sound good for now until it rally breaks in? I have the MMM timming ring set at 30 degrees and the Meier Exhaust ring.

757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

Congrats on the successful maiden! Good looking P 47 which I wasn't aware that Seagull offered, I'll have to check that out. I'd say 6000 rpm on a 22 X 10 sounds about right and I doubt you'd have to use all that to fly that P47 in a realistic manner.

JieM

Hi Didier, I use 2S2500 Lipo (the blue Turnigy one) and had never ignition issues.

JM

elmshoot

My Feedback: (6)

10 More flights on My Saito at the Warbirds and classics flyin in Rosewood IN (west of Louisville, KY across the Ohio River) Temps at around 34C or 94F. After landing you couldn't touch the engine because it was so hot The engine is flawless! I counted some where between 3 and 9 flips to hand start the engine. The tick over idle is really special, several other Larger Saito Gas radials were in attendance. Most box stock.
One did drop a jug and couldn't sustain flight on the two and it was bellied in without any damage. I didn't get any additional info since i was flying at the time.
Sparky

elmshoot

My Feedback: (6)

Nalby the RPM and prop are in the zone. I have the 23x10 Xoar WW2 prop and last check was 6100 RPM and the prop tips are going supersonic on the high speed flybys.
Sparky

nalby

Thanks Guys, So far I really like this motor , performs well and sounds fantastic, can't wait to get out to the field again

nalby

Love that sound

757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

We just had a Warbird event at the club field this w/e. I'm almost sad to say the old FG-60 has become boring... I fuel it up, it cranks on the 1st or 2nd flip, runs like a raped ape, and even the crowd got tired of hearing it. It got so boring I bought a FG-90 and am in the process of installing it on a Ziroli AT-6 just for something to do!

Seriously, it's been running quite well for quite a few flights now.

nalby

757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

Lookin good Nalby! Flies very similar to my TFGS. I've seen where some folks claim the FG-60 doesn't have enough power to fly it to their liking. IMHO it (the Saito) has plenty of suds to haul it around with authority, so I have no idea what they're looking for, some kind of rocket? I notice for the most part you're flying around at about 1/2 - 3/4 power and I find that similar to what I do.

Nice!

elmshoot

My Feedback: (6)

The Saito FG-60R3 pulls this 29 pound Bates Hellcat nicely. It is as fast as anything. It runs out of speed in the climb but that's a weight issue.

757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

Hey Elmshoot... I've been watchin you every once in awhile with that FG-60/Hellcat combo, you did a great job on that plane. This Ziroli AT-6 I'm playing with will weigh around 35lb or so. The 60 would fly it I'm sure, but I think it'd look kinda puny inside that big cowl! The 90 fills it up nicely and as far as I know I don't have to use full throttle if I don't want too.

I'm hoping to have a couple pics from this last weeks event coming my way.

nalby

Thanks Guys, I think the 60 was made for planes like these. (love the Hellcat, I thought the pic was of the real one at first) My p-47 is 24lbs auw and flys faster than scale, Yes I was flying at 1/2-3/4 throttle with some full throttle passes. The 60 is still running rich I have about a 1/2 gallon before I will lean it out a little more.

elmshoot

My Feedback: (6)

Picture taken at the Indiana Warbirds in Muncie, I left the guns off the wing, I wish I had put them on then it would be almost impossible to figure it out.
Sparky

cathurga

Fantastic guys! So good to see people happy with the FG60's, and it looks like the timing definately sorts out the problems people were having, along with the revised cylinder/piston combination on the newer planes. They are such good engines when they are running nicely.

I saw that the French guy that has his business doing the timing and negative pressure crankcase business, had a facebook video of a FG84 that was converted a while back and he stripped the engine after about 400 flights and the internals looked great. Lots of lube in the upper valve train, very little (if any) wear on the crank bearing/main rod. Remember the 84had no brass bushing so was very susceptible to failure, but having the fuel/air mix going through the crankcase was providing more than enough lube to that area. Both his and Morris' conversions are proving very good for them, along with the timing mod.

Jon, I was considering an FG90 in the TopRC FW190, but I think it might be a little marginal, so am toying with the idea of a UMS 125 instead. Certainly, the Saito's are great engines when running nicely, and although I suspect you thought it was a little boring, I got the sarcasm and know you are enjoying trouble-free running of a great sounding, efficient and fun power plant.

So good to see all your planes and happy flying. Superb!

nalby

Hey let me ask you guys about fuel. I'm running 87 octane with redline 20-1, I have a 17oz tank, I start the engine let it idle for 5 minutes, then fly for 10 minutes (sometimes with a lot of wide open passes) land, when I check the tank it seems like I only use 2-3 oz ,does that seem right?

cathurga

nalby

Cool maybe I will change to a 8oz tank and save myself 1/2 a lb

cathurga

Before you start changing tanks, try a 21x12 or a 22x12 prop on it. You will notice you dont need all the RPM to keep the same speed, and it should run a little cooler. They like higher pitch props. I dont know how much time you have on yours, but it makes sense to leave it as it is for now until it has 'loosened' up a bit. Just make sure you check the valve clearances regularly until it is bedded in nicely. You also need to check the lubrication on the No1 valve train, especially the exhaust valve. It gets very dry in its std configuration.

I still suggest to everyone they should conver the engine to the negative crankcase modification, but each to his own.

elmshoot

My Feedback: (6)

I'm not sure why you idle so long I think there is a possibility of overheating depending on things.....
Fuel burn will vary, go fly for 8 minutes of WOT and land check your remaining fuel and judge from there. Im running a smallish tank and fly 8-10 minutes with about 1/3 of a tank remaining and I'm 75%+ WOT.
Sparky

nalby

Thanks guys, I do have a 22x12 xoar ww2 maybe i'll try, I have almost 2 gallons through as of now that's why i'm still running it a little rich. not quite 6000 more like 5850-5950 on the ground with a 22x10.
I did the valves after the first gallon, ended up adjusting a few but not all.No.1 was wet with oil and I oiled it again when I did the valves

Do you think 5 min is to long to warm up the engine? it's been like 50F-60F here

Smotherb

cathurga

Nalby, you could probably lean it out a bit more if you want, but try out the larger pitch prop and see how it goes. Running it rich is likely not to hurt it, but with 20:1 oil ratio, it might start getting some carbon build up if you are always rich. 5mins warming up is not necessary I dont think, you would be ok with starting it up, getting it onto a high idle, after a minute, rev it up a few times, and make sure it is firing on all cylinders, and then get her up in the air. Excessive idling also causes carbon build up...

Smotherb, get the timing ring done as a priority. Retune it with the new timing ring and go fly. I have no experience with the roto-flow tanks, so cannot comment on their viability in this application, but go over your tank/tubing install and check the plumbing for any abnormalities. I use a standard setup with a heavy felt clunk and hav never experienced any inverted problems involving cutting out. Although these carbs ARE pumped, I dont think that the pump is as effective as a walbro type setup so if your tank is far away there is a possibility the pump isnt able to overcome the distance. My experience with the carbs is that they are pretty effective in keeping a decent flow of fuel so make sure that any possible resistance is minimised. Some people put inline filters in and if the roto is offering any resistance to flow....it will cause this. I have just had a look at the rotoflow and some reviews and it seems good, but I cannot help thinkin that with the rotating part and all the o-rings, there is more of a chance with something going wrong than with just a normal clunk setup...just an opinion, but sometimes K.I.S.S (Keep it simple, stupid) applies. if it persists, then try a normal tank set up and see if it helps.
The fuel consumption on these engines is so low that its not like they need MASSIVE fuel flow, so its a bit weird you are having these problems....maybe back to baiscs and see how it goes.

but......get that timing sorted out, if you think the engine is running well now, wait until you get the timing right....