WhiteRook

My Feedback: (38)

how can you use a starter if you dont have a spinner on the prop ? is there anyway to
belt start it ? i'm using a torque master 90 starter and it seems to turn the Q75 over , but it wont stay
on the prop washer alone. it wont get the right amount of spark fliping by hand, its a CH IGNITION,
and its got a good solid blue spark. ?????

thanks rcu

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

Did you turn the cup/insert over so the small hole faces out? That's the best way to grip just the nut.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Why are you not interested in hand starting? IMO using a starter on this size engine is far more dangerous.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

A big spinner would work much better

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

yes it would, maybe I'm just being thick here ( wouldn't be the first time ) but I would NEVER consider using a starter on a gasser. If it's that difficult to start then there is an issue that needs to be fixed.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

I have one electronic ignition gasser that is almost impossible to hand start. Nothing is wrong with the ignition, carb timing etc... that's just the way it is. Maybe his Quadra is still mag spark and it has a jump start that isn't working right.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Ive worked on just about every brand made and have not encountered any gasser that would not hand start provided everything was in proper working order and adjusted correctly. The OP has stated in his first post that it has a CH ignition. We don't know if that ignition is pre synchro spark or not. CH ignitions did not need a minimum activation rpm like a DA or 3W ignition does. Perhaps more detail from the OP will shed some light.

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

Check your timing. You should not require a starter. Dan.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBXFpxWg7vY

Granpooba

My Feedback: (5)

I've started some glow engines with an electric starter and no spinner, with no problems. On my DLE-20 I have used an electric starter, mainly just for convience . Seems that if I had not flown the model for some time, it took quite a few hand flips to draw fuel, thus the electric starter made it easier. But after it had fuel, starting after the initial start was easily done by hand.

Once again, I guess it just comes down to " whatever floats your boat ", or whatever is easiest for yourself.

triumphman49

My Feedback: (149)

You might try a hub nut like a Higley or dubro

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

True turn should make a hub that will work but I would think if you are dead set to use a starter on a 75cc engine you would want as large a diameter interface as you can get. The only way I can imagine a torque master starter spinning this engine is with the compression release pulled.

dirtybird

My Feedback: (5)

I have a Miller persuader that I used on 24V. I used it to start a ZDZ 80,BME 102,G62, RCS 44 and G45.
It made starting those engines much easier. Especially the ZDZ. Its high compression and a bit cranky.
The Zenoahs were mag engines and I had many bloody hands trying to start those with the stupid spring.
Thats why I got the Miller.
I never used a spinner on the RCS. I always used the starter with the insert turned around.
Currently I have a DLE 30,an NGH 26 and an RCGH 15. I just use a standard starter running on 5 A123 cells for those
I dont use a spinner on the NGH.
For the really big engines they have now you would need a cart to carry a starter for those. But they are slower to respond so you can get your hand out of the way in time.Also you heve more leverage with those big props

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

This'll get the job done and it works fine for me

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Then something is amiss. Have you checked timing? What adjustments other then needle settings have you done? Do you drain the tank after each session? Was the engine run, put away for a time longer then a couple months and then run again? Is the fuel tank mounted lower then the carb and on CG? What brand filters are you running and where are they placed? What is your filling method, fuel valve, fuel dot, 3 line system? These are all things that can contribute to an engine that won't start easily. Please give us some details, what engine? Describe you starting process. Is this all the time or just the first start of the day?

rgburrill

Wow, so many people trying to convince the guy not to do what he wants. That's what I love about this forum - ask a question and get told all the reason why your question is wrong. It's a question, it deserves an answer.
So, to ANSWER YOUR QUESTION the first response from flyinwalenda is the correct one - turn the rubber insert around. It even says that in the manual for electric starters.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Well I haven't seen where it states reversible rubber insert but we have all done just that for smaller GLOW engines. The description from Tower does however state for use on GLOW ENGINES UP TO .90.

NOTES FROM OUR TECH DEPARTMENT This is a Hobbico TorqMaster 90 Deluxe 12V Starter.
It is designed for starting Glow Engines up to .90 cubic inches in size.
*** 2-Year Warranty ***


[TABLE]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: #f0f0f0"]FEATURES[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
An Aluminum Starter Cone with V-Groove for Boat Starter Belts and
Round Rubber Insert for Airplane Spinner Cones.
Starter has Self-Adjusting Carbon Brushes for Longer Lasting Useage
and Constant Contact with the Armature.
Easy-Press Start Switch makes Starting Easy Without Requiring Heavy
Finger Pressure and a built-in Finger-Guard promises Safe Starts.
Pre-Attached Alligator Clips for easy attachment to a 12V battery


[TABLE]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: #f0f0f0"]INCLUDES[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
One TorqMaster 90 Deluxe 12V Starter w/5' Cord & Alligator Clips.


[TABLE]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: #f0f0f0"]SPECIFICATIONS[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Winding Resistance: 1.3 ohms Brush width: 3/16"
Weight: 3lbs and 6oz Current Draw: 11.6A load
Armature length: 2" RPM: no load 4500rpm, load 3100rpm
# of commutator contacts: 10 or 12 Measured torque: 310 oz-in at stall
Shaft thread size- 6mm-1.0mm


[TABLE]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: #f0f0f0"]REQUIREMENTS[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
A 12V DC power source such as HCAP0800 or HCAP0901


For some of us what the OP is asking and planning to do is just down right dangerous. We have all had starters jump off on us when using a spinner nut on a glow engine. Now imagine that happening while someone is pushing a starter onto a single bolt hub of a 75cc gasser while another guy is pushing the airplane toward him. Wouldn't the better option be to help the OP realize that if he has to use a starter to get the engine running then he has an issue, open a dialog with him to solve the actual problem?

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

I too wonder why some folks do this as well. The OP may have a valid reason why he wants to use a starter; maybe he physically has a difficult time hand flipping the prop, or perhaps he simply WANTS to use a starter!.
Anyway to add to my first response. White Rook, to do this successfully you will need two hands on the starter to steady it side-side and keep it perpendicular to the crankshaft while another person holds the plane. You can do it holding the starter with one hand but it's much easier using two!

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Ok this is getting ridiculous. You guys are making a bunch of assumptions to justify your point of view. The OP may be physically challenged enough to not be able to flip a prop but can push a starter hard enough against a 2" prop washer to spin a 75cc engine?? Really? Then you suggest a Higley or Dubro hub nut that does not even exist! My answers may not be what the OP actually asked but are based in 1. Safety first 2. helping the OP be successful in suggesting that he may have an issue with the engine if he needs to resort to a starter. Sometimes the correct answer is not one we really want to hear. Does not make it any less correct.

Granpooba

My Feedback: (5)

Ouch .......... this thread is heating up ......... don't think I will touch it !! LOL

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

No kidding LOL, especially when someone goes in and edits his post when it's pointed out that the items he is recommending were never made. Earlier he suggested that the engine could have a magneto ignition when post # 1 clearly states it is CH equipped. Obviously we lost the OP possibly because people are too lazy to do their homework before posting a suggestion. For those who haven't looked it up yet, this is a Q75. The one pictured has a single bolt hub, some were converted to 6 bolt hubs. True Turn makes spinner hubs for the 6 bolt set ups but I have never seen one for the single. As you can see it would be quite difficult to get a starter on this. I have my doubts about a torque 90 starter tuning this engine over. I have a Dynatron on 15V that struggles with my YS115.

WhiteRook

My Feedback: (38)

right on RGB

Granpooba

My Feedback: (5)

Makes sense to me. Wish I had tried it, but then again I am not a great one for reading instructions.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

So so what's the plan? Are you going to turn the insert around and fire that baby up? I would love to see video of that. You show me your start up video and Ill show you mine. LOL

WhiteRook

My Feedback: (38)

it doesn't work , it just chews the rubber up.
theres not enough to grip on just using the bolt head.

i'll figure something out.

the tourqemaster 90? no way , ignitions got a good fat spark , BUT , wont start , good fuel draw too.
i guess i'll try a real starter, its gonna be shelf material soon. the dang thing pops , but wont start.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Often times difficult starting comes from low compression and the ring being worn. It may feel like it has a lot of compression but still in actuality be low. The ring gap should be very tight; like .003". I've had engines that ran well and felt like they had good compression, but pick up 800 rpms and much easier starting characteristics with a new ring. I use Frank Bowman rings exclusively.

AV8TOR