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Fuel filters?

Old 10-17-2014, 07:58 AM
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CARS II
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Default Fuel filters?

I'm new to gas and I have been reading about ( clean the carburator screen a lot ) so, here is my question/survey.

How many of you ( the readers ) are using a fuel filters before the carburator?

I'm asking because I allway have ( even now ) used a fuel filter bafore the carburators that I have flown, on my first gas airplane the fuel is filtered 3 times before it gets to the carburator.

Thanks
Old 10-17-2014, 09:58 AM
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pilotpete2
 
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Many gas flyers use the felt filter clunks, but to be effective as a filter for the carb, you really need to run a 3 line setup with a separate fill/drain line, or elese you're pumping possible debris into the wrong side of the filter. I run three line setups with felt filter clunk on all my gas engines.
Pete
Old 10-17-2014, 10:11 AM
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Same as above. Only exception would be a 2 line system with a T and an inline filter before the carb. I use the sintered brass filters by Dubro in the tank in place of a std clunk, and a felt one in my fuel can.
Old 10-17-2014, 11:50 AM
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Felt clunk filter only here.
Old 10-17-2014, 12:15 PM
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sarpet
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This is the best money can buy.
http://www.amazon.com/White-Fuel-Fil.../dp/B00455Q2TO
Old 10-17-2014, 07:17 PM
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I don't use any filters in the airplane except the screen in the carb. I filter the fuel before it goes in the tank and that is all. I inspect the carb screens once a year and in most cases, find nothing in them. In very rare cases I might find a particle or two of something but nothing the screen can't handle. If I were to use a filter in the airplane it would be the Walbro in tank filter as commonly used in chain saws and other equipment with great ..... and as suggested by others here.

Whatever you do, never remove the screen in the carb as suggested in some magazine articles. That is your carb's absolute last defense against dirt in the system and it is a very effective filter.
Old 10-17-2014, 07:37 PM
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speedracerntrixie
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This is going to be one of those things where we do different things successfully. My preferred setup is a 2 line install with a garden equipment filter between the T and carb. I also have a filter on my fill can and run a felt clunk in the tank. I will always run a filter in the airplane. Remember, your vent line is bringing in dirty air from under the airplane for at least 2 minutes each flight.

Carlos, I'm headed out to DVRC in Pittsburg tomorrow morning. If you read this and it's not too short notice come by and do some flying. I am bringing the big Extra.

Last edited by speedracerntrixie; 10-17-2014 at 07:39 PM.
Old 10-17-2014, 07:47 PM
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I certainly agree about doing things in different ways all with success. That is the nature of our hobby. Regarding the vent line, yes it is in dirty air but I have always flown off of fairly dirty fields and have never had any crud in the tanks from that practice. If I was really worried about dirt from the vent, I would probably use a filter in the vent line. The long vent lines we commonly use in gassers acts as a bit of a filter all by itself. The tiny particles that might come in with the the very slow velocity vent airflow can get trapped on the oily surface of the vent tube and are washed clean every time we fuel the airplane.

Over the years, I've seen so many filter problems both in gas and glo planes that I stay away from them whenever possible, except on my fuel can. I do like the felt tank filters though but just don't use them as I haven't felt the need for them.
Old 10-17-2014, 10:13 PM
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i filter the fuel before it goes into the tank and an inline filter before the carb.

No filter in the tank, just a clunk.
Old 10-18-2014, 12:07 AM
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Coffee filters do good job before it goes into my fuel can.
Old 10-18-2014, 03:23 PM
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I filter the fuel before it goes into my gas can, then I have an inline filter inside the can which feeds the fuel to my Holley electric fuel pump. From the pump the fuel travels thru another inline fuel filter (one of those translucent type) to the aircraft tank which has a Du-Bro clunk/filter and straight to the carb. My gas is either Citgo or Exxon 93 octane with Pennzoil air cooled 2stroke oil. I've been running this combo since 1985 and all of my Zenoah's and Fox engine have been running flawlessly. Oh, I only use NGK BPMR7A plugs too. What does all this mean? RELIABILITY.....
Old 10-18-2014, 04:59 PM
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Barry, glad you have a reliable formula and this little FYI is not to convince you to change. Using 93 octane results in the lowest power output of any gas you could be running. 87 octane would produce more power but if you have no need for more power then by all means stick with what works.
Old 10-18-2014, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by särpet
I use that best one in my fuel can & a walbro felt clunk in airplane tank.
Old 10-18-2014, 05:55 PM
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Red face

STUKA BARRY, did you fly a Giles 202 a few years ago? I have one yet. They fly nice. Capt,n
Old 10-18-2014, 06:25 PM
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rt3232
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Hi all

Just my 2 pennies worth, the way I see it do what works for you. That said I don't like the smell of our auto pump gas, and if left more than a few weeks it can sour and make varnish even if you shake it from tome to time. So my recipe is 100 ave gas ( no smell, and will not sour when left over the winter) and yes it is 5.50 $$ a gallon, for break in any good quality ash less 2cycle oil then I switch to a sin oil Klutz generally, I also use 1oz per gal of sta-bil, and I have been doing it this way for about 25 years when I got my first G-38, now 2 G62's, 2 RCGF-26's and 1 RCGF-62. Now about Filters, pump into a clean can and when transferring to my flight box can a coffee paper filter in the funnel and a sinted metal filter on my pump pick up line. No filters in my plains. Tried the cloth filters a few years back and did not like the tiny fibers found in carb screens.

The key hear is do what ever to keep your fuel clean.

Cheers Bob T
AMA13377
Old 10-18-2014, 07:29 PM
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Thank you all for taking the time to give this valuable info on how you set up your fuel system, I appreciate all the comments and suggestions.

My set up is a two line with a clunk in the tank, and an in line filter before the carb, my fuel gets filter 4 times before it gets to the carb.

Last edited by CARS II; 10-19-2014 at 11:07 AM.
Old 10-18-2014, 07:52 PM
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Speed

I didn't get the massage in time, it will have to be on another time, I was at WDA today flying the Gee Bee, I flew it with a fuel ratio of 30:1, got three good flights specially the last two ( full throttle, vertical climbs ) the guys at the field love to see this Gee Bee Y fly around.

One interesting thing happened, when I run the BME before with a 50:1 oil ratio, it was doing 5K rpms at the top end then today I run it for the first time with an oil ratio of 30:1 and it was doing 7300 rpms at the top.

The question is, how come the change of rpms? and is this possible?

Last edited by CARS II; 10-19-2014 at 11:08 AM.
Old 10-18-2014, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by rt3232
Hi all

Just my 2 pennies worth, the way I see it do what works for you. That said I don't like the smell of our auto pump gas, and if left more than a few weeks it can sour and make varnish even if you shake it from tome to time. So my recipe is 100 ave gas ( no smell, and will not sour when left over the winter) and yes it is 5.50 $$ a gallon, for break in any good quality ash less 2cycle oil then I switch to a sin oil Klutz generally, I also use 1oz per gal of sta-bil, and I have been doing it this way for about 25 years when I got my first G-38, now 2 G62's, 2 RCGF-26's and 1 RCGF-62. Now about Filters, pump into a clean can and when transferring to my flight box can a coffee paper filter in the funnel and a sinted metal filter on my pump pick up line. No filters in my plains. Tried the cloth filters a few years back and did not like the tiny fibers found in carb screens.

The key hear is do what ever to keep your fuel clean.

Cheers Bob T
AMA13377
I find this interesting. Some also say that nitro fuel goes off as well.

I have had petrol/gas and nitro fuel stored for years and the engine still runs perfect when I use it again. I never shake it until I am going to use it.

Not to start an arguement, but my theory is - Fuel doesn't go off, it gets contaminated.
Old 10-19-2014, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by drac1
I find this interesting. Some also say that nitro fuel goes off as well.

I have had petrol/gas and nitro fuel stored for years and the engine still runs perfect when I use it again. I never shake it until I am going to use it.

Not to start an arguement, but my theory is - Fuel doesn't go off, it gets contaminated.
I don't know about your fuel (auto gas) in Oz, but hear in fly over land (MN) I have left it in a 2 gallon gas can tightly closed for about a month and when you open it up it smells sour, and could be that corn additive they add hear. So for my lawn mower and weed whip I pick up gas as needed and mix as needed and I still use 1 Oz of sta-bil per gallon just to make any minute bit of water stay mixed, and then just put it in my car.

For my brids will stay with what has worked for me over the years.

Cheers Bob T
Old 10-19-2014, 06:38 AM
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Carlos, it is very possible. First, changing you fuel/oil mix actually leaned the fuel/air ratio that the engine sees. Second the more oil can give you a better ring seal. Third and this one has to be seen to be believed is that the carbs are calibrated to run the higher viscosity fuel.
Old 10-19-2014, 11:15 AM
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CARS II
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I agree, leaner and better seal, does this mean that I should be thinking of changing the piston rings for new ones? ( Bowman's )

Last edited by CARS II; 10-19-2014 at 03:55 PM.
Old 10-19-2014, 12:20 PM
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Not sure how much use your engine has but as long as it starts easily and produces enough power I would file under " if it ain't broke don't fix it ".
Old 10-19-2014, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by speedracerntrixie
Not sure how much use your engine has but as long as it starts easily and produces enough power I would file under " if it ain't broke don't fix it ".
+1
Old 10-19-2014, 02:31 PM
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I tried the three line / two clunk method which works with a felt clunk for the feed line. Recently I discovered the QuikFire filter that uses standard automotive paper fuel filters. Since using the QuikFire I have not had any engine trouble or dead sticks. One engine that was giving me trouble started running perfectly once I installed the QuikFire. I prefer the two line method while still having a filter before the carb intake. Below are some of the QuikFire features:
1/4 ounce of fuel at the engine for an easy starting,
Has fitting before filter
Smoothes out irregular fuel surges from.
Eliminates two fuel line connections
http://www.jlproducts.net/ProductQuikFire.html
Old 10-19-2014, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by vtwinrider
I tried the three line / two clunk method which works with a felt clunk for the feed line. Recently I discovered the QuikFire filter that uses standard automotive paper fuel filters. Since using the QuikFire I have not had any engine trouble or dead sticks. One engine that was giving me trouble started running perfectly once I installed the QuikFire. I prefer the two line method while still having a filter before the carb intake. Below are some of the QuikFire features:
1/4 ounce of fuel at the engine for an easy starting,
Has fitting before filter
Smoothes out irregular fuel surges from.
Eliminates two fuel line connections
http://www.jlproducts.net/ProductQuikFire.html
I like that. Will have to invest in a couple I think.

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