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First gas engine question

Old 06-03-2015, 03:57 PM
  #126  
All Day Dan
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Old CH guy, which scanner, receiver or noise detector are you referring to? Dan.

http://www.mfjenterprises.com/
Old 06-03-2015, 04:36 PM
  #127  
vertical grimmace
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Crap in your fuel line is another reason not to use the "T" fitting in a 2 line system. Any crap that comes from the can, ends up on the carburetor side of the fuel system. So it is almost meaningless to have a filtered clunk. Now if the fuel is filtered very well, before your fuel tank, then I suppose it would not matter.

So whether you have a screen in your carb or not, it really comes down to how well you filter your fuel.

I have always respected Mr. Lees articles, and I grew up reading them in RCM. His info was very valuable to me as a beginning R/Cer, and helped solve a lot of issues I had back then.
Old 06-03-2015, 05:39 PM
  #128  
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I have read Me Lee,s articles for 40 years. Good man with 2 cycle glow engines & does good repair on stripped threads with heli-coils. I try to read about all small engines....love em !
Old 06-03-2015, 05:45 PM
  #129  
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Since I re-entered the hobby after a 25 hiatus I have considered Mr. Lee the consummate authority on small engines and I still do but he is not infallible, human like the rest of us, well, maybe some of us!!!
Old 06-03-2015, 06:09 PM
  #130  
Truckracer
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Originally Posted by acerc
I have no idea, but I have used the same oil for several years so that don't apply in my case. When I pulled the screen, it came off and was like an ultra thin clear disk.
Regarding that clear coating that forms on screens, I have seen that happen a few times but only on yard equipment or old chainsaws where some fuel was allowed to set in the system and evaporate over time. I've never experienced that in an airplane engine. That's why I always recommend that the screen not only looks clean but that it can also allow fuel flow.

On another note and a debatable one, I have seen all sorts of fuel problems where people used stabilizers such as StaBil in their fuel. It seems to create a white powder residue in carburetors as fuel evaporates. This can plug drilled passages or cause all sorts of problems with or without a screen as it seems to form after evaporation. So none of that stuff for me! TOM, the Jedi and others who use to frequent these forums said it caused other problems when mixed with our fuels. Solution .... buy the proper quantity of fresh gas and use it before it goes bad then you don't need any stabilizer.
Old 06-03-2015, 06:37 PM
  #131  
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With the use of http://pure-gas.org/ you will not need any stabilizer. Been using it for 4 years now...great gas for RC engines
Old 06-03-2015, 06:43 PM
  #132  
av8tor1977
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My problem is, I DO have airplanes that sit for sometimes two years or more at a time. So, each time I finally do get the "hangar queens" out to fly, it means a complete fuel system checkout/rebuild, and of course, new batteries.... Ah well, the cost of fun.

AV8TOR
Old 06-03-2015, 07:16 PM
  #133  
vertical grimmace
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Originally Posted by av8tor1977
My problem is, I DO have airplanes that sit for sometimes two years or more at a time. So, each time I finally do get the "hangar queens" out to fly, it means a complete fuel system checkout/rebuild, and of course, new batteries.... Ah well, the cost of fun.

AV8TOR
And that is when the stoppers would be a PIA! lol
Old 06-03-2015, 07:34 PM
  #134  
Truckracer
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Originally Posted by captinjohn
With the use of http://pure-gas.org/ you will not need any stabilizer. Been using it for 4 years now...great gas for RC engines
Don't need no stinkin "Pure-Gas" in my state!

I can buy any kind of fuel I want here at most any station. At least until they change the laws one day.

The only real differences I see in fuels here are between winter and summer blends with the summer blends being much more stable.
Old 06-03-2015, 07:40 PM
  #135  
Truckracer
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Originally Posted by vertical grimmace
And that is when the stoppers would be a PIA! lol
No stopper problems here! I feel fortunate to live in an area where fuels are still fairly normal. 10 year old DuBro red stoppers still look and feel petty much like the day they were installed.

Iowa was one of the first states in the country to introduce Ethanol in fuels back in the late 70's. But we can still buy fuel both with or without Ethanol. I have never seen where either fuel has much effect on our carburetors .... at least in the last decade or so. As AV8TOR has discussed several times, fuels in his area, either with or without Ethanol all have negative effects on carb parts. It has to be an area related problem.
Old 06-03-2015, 08:16 PM
  #136  
bcchi
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Originally Posted by All Day Dan
Old CH guy, which scanner, receiver or noise detector are you referring to? Dan.

http://www.mfjenterprises.com/
MJE-852 Page 21 I did not go t o trailer and see what the no of mine is.Seems like it only cost like $59.00 but I have had it for many years.
BCCHI I will try and look some day this week. Remembering is my problem
Old 06-04-2015, 06:06 AM
  #137  
dirtybird
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here is a cheap one

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Spect.../dp/B002YKU2RA
Old 06-04-2015, 02:30 PM
  #138  
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Hey, while theres a room full of experienced gassers, what better place to ask a simple question. Does gas eat loctite? The blue Z-42 Zap? I had the butterfly on a walbro come loose on me 3 times now. Same engine. My question i guess, is there a "gas resistent" type to use? It gets frusterating trying to tune it like that. Lol.
Old 06-04-2015, 03:37 PM
  #139  
Truckracer
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Originally Posted by stevegauth30
Hey, while theres a room full of experienced gassers, what better place to ask a simple question. Does gas eat loctite? The blue Z-42 Zap? I had the butterfly on a walbro come loose on me 3 times now. Same engine. My question i guess, is there a "gas resistent" type to use? It gets frusterating trying to tune it like that. Lol.
In my experience, Blue Loctite is not affected by gasoline ..... But! That is the wrong formula for holding a throttle plate retaining screw. Red would be better as it is much stronger and the green wicking formula would be better yet. You have to be extremely careful with green though as if too much is used, it will follow along between the butterfly and the shaft and get between the shaft and housing and lock it solid! Don't ask me how I know! Use just a tiny bit of the green on the threads after assembly.

Regardless of the formula used, are you sure the threads in the shaft are in good condition to hold a screw? If the screw was ever removed without grinding the swaging off the back side, the shaft or more clearly the threads in the shaft could be ruined. If the threads and screw are in good condition, the Blue Loctite should be more than adequate though the other formulas are preferred.
Old 06-04-2015, 03:48 PM
  #140  
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Thats something to look at, Thanks. Ill check it out and report back.
Old 06-04-2015, 03:53 PM
  #141  
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Threads seem fine. Ill get some red. Thanks.
Old 06-04-2015, 04:25 PM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by Truckracer
In my experience, Blue Loctite is not affected by gasoline ..... But! That is the wrong formula for holding a throttle plate retaining screw. Red would be better as it is much stronger and the green wicking formula would be better yet. You have to be extremely careful with green though as if too much is used, it will follow along between the butterfly and the shaft and get between the shaft and housing and lock it solid! Don't ask me how I know! Use just a tiny bit of the green on the threads after assembly.

Regardless of the formula used, are you sure the threads in the shaft are in good condition to hold a screw? If the screw was ever removed without grinding the swaging off the back side, the shaft or more clearly the threads in the shaft could be ruined. If the threads and screw are in good condition, the Blue Loctite should be more than adequate though the other formulas are preferred.
Perfect answer and I agree completely. I've never seen gas affect Loctite once it has dried. And do be careful about that wicking action as Truck Racer mentioned.

However, I lean towards the blue Loctite for throttle plate screws just because if I ever have to take the screw out again, with red Loctite the screw will probably break before it lets loose.

AV8TOR

Last edited by av8tor1977; 06-04-2015 at 04:27 PM.
Old 06-04-2015, 04:34 PM
  #143  
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Its got me wondering if i put ANY last time. It seems to have worked its way loose once a season on me.
Old 06-04-2015, 04:38 PM
  #144  
Truckracer
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A soldering iron on the screw head makes the Red Loctite very pliable in short order. Same with the green. Screw comes right out. Not so easy with large bolts but that's not the case here.

It might be just me but Blue doesn't seem as strong as it was some years ago and it doesn't seem to matter what brand it is. It was once my universal thread locker where Red is favored these days.
Old 06-04-2015, 04:57 PM
  #145  
av8tor1977
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I tend to stay away from the red on small screws/bolts, etc., but you're right, the EPA probably made them change the formulas on us....

AV8TOR
Old 06-04-2015, 05:02 PM
  #146  
All Day Dan
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Thanks for the information about the 2.4Gig monitor. I was trying to find something like the hand ICOMs not a spectrum analyzer. The guys at the field are going in due to the usual problems, batteries, poor installations, some early spread spectrum radio designs, etc.. Some kind of monitor would help the analysis. Dan.
Old 06-05-2015, 01:50 PM
  #147  
dirtybird
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Originally Posted by All Day Dan
Thanks for the information about the 2.4Gig monitor. I was trying to find something like the hand ICOMs not a spectrum analyzer. The guys at the field are going in due to the usual problems, batteries, poor installations, some early spread spectrum radio designs, etc.. Some kind of monitor would help the analysis. Dan.
If you are thinking of some kind of monitor like we had on 72, forget it. Spread systems operate on many frequencies,not just one. Spectrums first systems chose two 1mhz bands and randomly hopped around in those two bands. Frequency hopping systems hop over the entire 4mhz band. Wht you will see even with a spectrum Analyzer is nothing more than increase in noise when a system turns on.
If the band is entirely wiped out you would see it on the analyzer but I dont think you will ever see that
Old 06-05-2015, 02:07 PM
  #148  
Propworn
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Originally Posted by acerc
Tell her what I told mine, "I put that ring on I can take it off"!
Ya sure I've seen this play out before!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saCAKkm6f4I
Old 06-05-2015, 02:32 PM
  #149  
Propworn
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Originally Posted by Truckracer
I learned a lot from Clarence's articles years ago but these days, I seem to differ with some of his opinions when it comes to gas engines. Case in point, he has repeatedly suggested removing the screen in Walbro carburetors which I highly disagree with. He suggests it gets plugged too easily and I suggest if it is getting plugged, the fuel going to the carb is contaminated which will ruin a carb in short order if that "last line of defense" screen is omitted. I have written letters but no response. He continues to make that suggestion from time to time and my fur gets ruffled whenever I read the suggestion. I check my screens once a year and in most cases find nothing in them. I couldn't imagine removing them.
If I remember correctly from my old Quadra days the reason for removing the screen was to allow any tiny amounts of water (read condensation) that would form to be sucked through the opening instead of collecting on the screen and inhibiting the engine from running. One thing Mr. Lee was a fanatic about was filtering your fuel into the model thus the lack of need for a filter and screen in the carb. Today there are enough additives (the alcohol in fuel helps absorb water) the fuel stability being better and we tend to use smaller containers and go through the fuel faster I don’t see any water droplets forming on that screen very often any more. About the only time is early in the year after the fuel container has sat near empty over the winter. The fellow is either trying to use it up or just added to what was there.

I agree with you I have not felt the need to remove that screen in many years. Like you the two things in those carbs that can give trouble are the pump diaphragms and the screens. They both come in the kits and are relatively inexpensive. I have the cowl off before first flight in the new season to check everything over it takes but a few minutes to replace both. Cheap insurance. In each engine manual I have the carb kit number written down. I make a habit of having one on hand and when that plane leaves the hanger the carb kit goes with it. It’s saved the weekend on more than one occasion and even helped a good friend out once.

Someone once said you cannot have too many toys. My experience with mechanical toys also tells me you cannot have too many spare parts. LOL

Dennis

Last edited by Propworn; 06-05-2015 at 02:36 PM.
Old 06-05-2015, 04:00 PM
  #150  
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I've run gas mix after it sat through an entire winter with no problems



Of course, thats 2 days here...

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