First gas engine question
#127
My Feedback: (1)
Crap in your fuel line is another reason not to use the "T" fitting in a 2 line system. Any crap that comes from the can, ends up on the carburetor side of the fuel system. So it is almost meaningless to have a filtered clunk. Now if the fuel is filtered very well, before your fuel tank, then I suppose it would not matter.
So whether you have a screen in your carb or not, it really comes down to how well you filter your fuel.
I have always respected Mr. Lees articles, and I grew up reading them in RCM. His info was very valuable to me as a beginning R/Cer, and helped solve a lot of issues I had back then.
So whether you have a screen in your carb or not, it really comes down to how well you filter your fuel.
I have always respected Mr. Lees articles, and I grew up reading them in RCM. His info was very valuable to me as a beginning R/Cer, and helped solve a lot of issues I had back then.
#128
I have read Me Lee,s articles for 40 years. Good man with 2 cycle glow engines & does good repair on stripped threads with heli-coils. I try to read about all small engines....love em !
#129
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Since I re-entered the hobby after a 25 hiatus I have considered Mr. Lee the consummate authority on small engines and I still do but he is not infallible, human like the rest of us, well, maybe some of us!!!
#130
My Feedback: (19)
On another note and a debatable one, I have seen all sorts of fuel problems where people used stabilizers such as StaBil in their fuel. It seems to create a white powder residue in carburetors as fuel evaporates. This can plug drilled passages or cause all sorts of problems with or without a screen as it seems to form after evaporation. So none of that stuff for me! TOM, the Jedi and others who use to frequent these forums said it caused other problems when mixed with our fuels. Solution .... buy the proper quantity of fresh gas and use it before it goes bad then you don't need any stabilizer.
#134
My Feedback: (19)
With the use of http://pure-gas.org/ you will not need any stabilizer. Been using it for 4 years now...great gas for RC engines
I can buy any kind of fuel I want here at most any station. At least until they change the laws one day.
The only real differences I see in fuels here are between winter and summer blends with the summer blends being much more stable.
#135
My Feedback: (19)
No stopper problems here! I feel fortunate to live in an area where fuels are still fairly normal. 10 year old DuBro red stoppers still look and feel petty much like the day they were installed.
Iowa was one of the first states in the country to introduce Ethanol in fuels back in the late 70's. But we can still buy fuel both with or without Ethanol. I have never seen where either fuel has much effect on our carburetors .... at least in the last decade or so. As AV8TOR has discussed several times, fuels in his area, either with or without Ethanol all have negative effects on carb parts. It has to be an area related problem.
Iowa was one of the first states in the country to introduce Ethanol in fuels back in the late 70's. But we can still buy fuel both with or without Ethanol. I have never seen where either fuel has much effect on our carburetors .... at least in the last decade or so. As AV8TOR has discussed several times, fuels in his area, either with or without Ethanol all have negative effects on carb parts. It has to be an area related problem.
#136
Senior Member
Old CH guy, which scanner, receiver or noise detector are you referring to? Dan.
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/
BCCHI I will try and look some day this week. Remembering is my problem
#138
Hey, while theres a room full of experienced gassers, what better place to ask a simple question. Does gas eat loctite? The blue Z-42 Zap? I had the butterfly on a walbro come loose on me 3 times now. Same engine. My question i guess, is there a "gas resistent" type to use? It gets frusterating trying to tune it like that. Lol.
#139
My Feedback: (19)
Hey, while theres a room full of experienced gassers, what better place to ask a simple question. Does gas eat loctite? The blue Z-42 Zap? I had the butterfly on a walbro come loose on me 3 times now. Same engine. My question i guess, is there a "gas resistent" type to use? It gets frusterating trying to tune it like that. Lol.
Regardless of the formula used, are you sure the threads in the shaft are in good condition to hold a screw? If the screw was ever removed without grinding the swaging off the back side, the shaft or more clearly the threads in the shaft could be ruined. If the threads and screw are in good condition, the Blue Loctite should be more than adequate though the other formulas are preferred.
#142
My Feedback: (6)
In my experience, Blue Loctite is not affected by gasoline ..... But! That is the wrong formula for holding a throttle plate retaining screw. Red would be better as it is much stronger and the green wicking formula would be better yet. You have to be extremely careful with green though as if too much is used, it will follow along between the butterfly and the shaft and get between the shaft and housing and lock it solid! Don't ask me how I know! Use just a tiny bit of the green on the threads after assembly.
Regardless of the formula used, are you sure the threads in the shaft are in good condition to hold a screw? If the screw was ever removed without grinding the swaging off the back side, the shaft or more clearly the threads in the shaft could be ruined. If the threads and screw are in good condition, the Blue Loctite should be more than adequate though the other formulas are preferred.
Regardless of the formula used, are you sure the threads in the shaft are in good condition to hold a screw? If the screw was ever removed without grinding the swaging off the back side, the shaft or more clearly the threads in the shaft could be ruined. If the threads and screw are in good condition, the Blue Loctite should be more than adequate though the other formulas are preferred.
However, I lean towards the blue Loctite for throttle plate screws just because if I ever have to take the screw out again, with red Loctite the screw will probably break before it lets loose.
AV8TOR
Last edited by av8tor1977; 06-04-2015 at 04:27 PM.
#144
My Feedback: (19)
A soldering iron on the screw head makes the Red Loctite very pliable in short order. Same with the green. Screw comes right out. Not so easy with large bolts but that's not the case here.
It might be just me but Blue doesn't seem as strong as it was some years ago and it doesn't seem to matter what brand it is. It was once my universal thread locker where Red is favored these days.
It might be just me but Blue doesn't seem as strong as it was some years ago and it doesn't seem to matter what brand it is. It was once my universal thread locker where Red is favored these days.
#146
My Feedback: (5)
Thanks for the information about the 2.4Gig monitor. I was trying to find something like the hand ICOMs not a spectrum analyzer. The guys at the field are going in due to the usual problems, batteries, poor installations, some early spread spectrum radio designs, etc.. Some kind of monitor would help the analysis. Dan.
#147
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Thanks for the information about the 2.4Gig monitor. I was trying to find something like the hand ICOMs not a spectrum analyzer. The guys at the field are going in due to the usual problems, batteries, poor installations, some early spread spectrum radio designs, etc.. Some kind of monitor would help the analysis. Dan.
If the band is entirely wiped out you would see it on the analyzer but I dont think you will ever see that
#148
My Feedback: (3)
Ya sure I've seen this play out before!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saCAKkm6f4I
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saCAKkm6f4I
#149
My Feedback: (3)
I learned a lot from Clarence's articles years ago but these days, I seem to differ with some of his opinions when it comes to gas engines. Case in point, he has repeatedly suggested removing the screen in Walbro carburetors which I highly disagree with. He suggests it gets plugged too easily and I suggest if it is getting plugged, the fuel going to the carb is contaminated which will ruin a carb in short order if that "last line of defense" screen is omitted. I have written letters but no response. He continues to make that suggestion from time to time and my fur gets ruffled whenever I read the suggestion. I check my screens once a year and in most cases find nothing in them. I couldn't imagine removing them.
I agree with you I have not felt the need to remove that screen in many years. Like you the two things in those carbs that can give trouble are the pump diaphragms and the screens. They both come in the kits and are relatively inexpensive. I have the cowl off before first flight in the new season to check everything over it takes but a few minutes to replace both. Cheap insurance. In each engine manual I have the carb kit number written down. I make a habit of having one on hand and when that plane leaves the hanger the carb kit goes with it. It’s saved the weekend on more than one occasion and even helped a good friend out once.
Someone once said you cannot have too many toys. My experience with mechanical toys also tells me you cannot have too many spare parts. LOL
Dennis
Last edited by Propworn; 06-05-2015 at 02:36 PM.