brian mire

i have 2 evo 10gx engines i am having the same problem with both engines, both ran great during break in period, now my issue and it is with both engines is during warm up every thing is fine engines idle take throttle fine until i try an go wide open than the sputtering starts both seem to stall on first take off (getting good at dead stick landings!) and don't want to hit the high rpm's, i have done all the recommended settings,fuel line,clunk movement exhaust pressure i am useing a 11x6 prop a 7.4 lipo for my ignition ign module is placed as to not get any emf's from anything ive turned high idle both directions only to get the same results i have held the nose up and down while the plane was running no change any help would be greatly appreciated!! i have a sig lt40 and a sig kadet sport as well when i can get them to semi run right there fun planes but the sputtering an stalling is getting real old fast!!!!!

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

I have a few on these and they don't really break-in until upwards of 2 gallons then they really come to life and you don't have to fuss with the needles. Until then you need to make very small adjustment to both the low and high needles. Sounds like the low side is a bit lean. Try opening it a little and then readjust the high needle.
If using the factory blue filter, make sure it is not leaking as I had one that did .
Take the factory muffler apart and reassemble using red high temp sealant on all of the surfaces, retainer bolt, and header/bolts.
Make sure the tank height is correct.
Make sure the plug cap is locked on with a slight twist.
If it doesn't improve start from the beginning and reset the carb barrel and the low/high needles to factory specs and re-tune.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I have 2 of these as well. A few thoughts, in no order.

If it's quitting, it's almost always because it's lean. This can be on take off as you describe, or most any other times. Sometimes, figuring out why it's lean can be a real challenge (e.g. hard to see cracked/disconnected/melted muffler pressure line)

I was getting pretty good at dead stick landings/getting a lot of practice with one of mine, until somebody mentioned the fuel nipple on the carb has a gasket underneath it, and his had partially disintegrated. Mine were just loose (both of them!), leading to a dead stick when I pulled back on the throttle (over and over and over again).

I found the adjustment procedure in the owners manual very well written, and despite the fact I've been screwing with 2 stroke engines for a long time, these procedures were just different enough where I have to go back and reread on occasion. Not hard, just different.

You might want to step up to a 12x6 prop if your 11x6 has been run a while. The lower rpm it will run at might make it a little easier/friendly when it comes to proper tune. You might like how much quieter it is too.

Best of luck, hope one of these thoughts will lend a hand. -Al

brian mire

thanx i will try this and hope for the best again thank you

brian mire

any advice will help as i am new to gas i flew electric's before i will try these suggestions thank you !!

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

Absolutely. These are great little engines in my opinion, but can be a bit aggravating for someone who has little experience with gas or glow engines. They don't use a typical pumped carb like larger gas engines so needle adjustments are more critical and need to be done more often until it is fully broken in.
Yes ,changing to a 12" prop is a good idea now.

bobzilla

My Feedback: (63)

Have a friend who has had 2 flights on his engine, both times the pressure nipple on the back of the muffler got so hot..it melted the tygon tubing. He replaced and it did it again.
I think he is gonna make a custom nipple on the front of the muffler, extend it out so it gets some air flow over it and keeps it cooler.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

He should be using the black line that came with the engine on the muffler port, It has been on mine for 2 years with no melting issues.

bobzilla

My Feedback: (63)

Good deal. I will pass along immediately
thanks
bobzilla

bobzilla

My Feedback: (63)

I maiden his plane for him with the engine..lost power after the tube melted but managed a sweet landing..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88SItcSppAU

brian mire

got a couple 12's on the way, line around exhaust nipple looks ok? little soft, i did use the stock tubing for that

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I don't know where, but remember reading the tubing shipped with some of these is junk - because it did not hold up to the exhaust heat. Mine melted down a couple times as well (the first was before it even got off the ground!), so I spliced a section of silicone glow fuel line about 3" long to the pressure line, and plugged that onto the muffler. That was the end of that problem for me.

pilotpete2

There is a simple fix for the problem with the tubing cracking or melting at the muffler pressure tap. Use silicone!!!!
The vent/pressure line does not have fuel fuel in it except for the moment you pump a little fuel into the muffler.
This my 3rd season with an early nonpumped Evo 15cc. The first season I had no end of problems with the vent line. Last year I decided to try some silicone Dubro fuel line. I figured maybe I could get through the season, well it was in such good condition I saw no reason to replace it. Still going strong in season 2
Pete