av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Yep. Sorry to say but as Truckracer says, those screws are swaged and I've never seen one come out without having the swage ground off without damaging the brass shaft. Maybe you got lucky, but you better be sure.... An engine gets severe and expensive indigestion when it eats a screw.... And vibration can make a screw that you think is tight and secure come out so fast you can't believe it. I've seen screws come out under vibration faster than a person could turn them with a screwdriver!

AV8TOR

Electriceddie

Truck Racer

How can you grind it off if it is on the inside of the Choke. How could you get anything in there to cot it off even with the Choke wide open there is no room???? Maybe I am not following then....


Thanks

Ed

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Oh yes, you're "following". You have to do it with a small carbide bit, or a very small grinding stone using a Dremel tool.

AV8TOR

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Oh yes, you're "following". You have to do it with a small carbide bit, or a very small grinding stone using a Dremel tool. You grind the end of the screw opposite the head down flush with the brass choke shaft, and only then can you remove it without damaging the shaft.

AV8TOR

Electriceddie

I are we talking about the same screw? The screw that holds the Choke plate to the choke shaft?

Ed

Electriceddie

Originally Posted by av8tor1977 Oh yes, you're "following". You have to do it with a small carbide bit, or a very small grinding stone using a Dremel tool. You grind the end of the screw opposite the head down flush with the brass choke shaft, and only then can you remove it without damaging the shaft.

AV8TOR

I are we talking about the same screw? The screw that holds the Choke plate to the choke shaft? I included a pic below... The center screw of the butterfly plate.....

Ed




OK Lets assume that we are talking about the same screw. What should I do now from this point to ensure that I do not have any issue with the engine swallowing a screw then?










Thanks

Ed

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Yes, easy enough to grind off the threads with a Dremel bit.

I would remove the existing screw and thread in a new screw of the same thread size to see if the threads in the shaft are still in good condition and not too loose. If OK, install a new screw with Loctite and you should be good to go. If the threads seem overly loose, you'll probably have to replace the shaft. The steel shafts tolerate much more abuse than the brass ones so you could be just fine as most of the newer shafts are steel.

By the way, genuine Walbro carbs have 4-40 SAE threads where clones are metric .... and I don't remember the metric thread size.

Can't speak for Av8tor, but there is a reason I know about these things ...... its called experience by learning the hard way by ruining a few parts years ago during the learning curve. We all have to learn about these things sometime and some way.

dirtybird

My Feedback: (5)

Another way to fix it if the screw is loose:
Remove the shaft and wash everything with soap and water(screw and shaft)
Reinstall and cover the screwhead and the other end of the screw with RTV
Let cure for 24 hours.
RTV has a very high working temperature. I use it on my muffler bolts.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Truckracer- if you refer back to the photos in post 5, I think you'll see that his shafts are brass.

The easy fix here, would have been to put a new arm on the choke shaft about 3/4 to 1" long, and move the actuating pushrod upwards to compensate, and not worry about the choke detents I believe. That's what I would have done, anyway.

At this point, I would be tempted to do one of three things;

Either follow Truckracers advice above.
Buy a new choke shaft and screw to be sure.
Maybe put a drop of muriatic acid on the screw and shaft, and solder them solid. (You'll never take that part of the carb apart again anyway....)

AV8TOR

mustangman177

Eddie; Curious as to what bird you have your DLE 35 on ?

Here's mine

Electriceddie

Hi Mustangman





I have an ESM P-51B Mustang - "The Bald Eagle"

Thanks

Ed

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

AV8TOR, I see, the shaft is brass in the photo. Had not noticed that before. That's probably why the screw came out easily.

I wouldn't condemn the shaft and threads until it is proven to be bad. It could very well be just fine but certainly warrants an inspection. Solder would work just fine if one has the equipment and skills.

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

The screw we are all talking about is the one holding the choke plate to the choke shaft. The Walbro screw is swaged over to prevent it from coming loose and is not that easy to remove after a turn or two. Maybe the clones don’t have a swaged screw. Check the threads in the shaft to make sure they are in good shape. Dan.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Yup the clones are swaged as much or even more than the normal Walbro carbs. This was discussed earlier on in the thread.

catboater

My Feedback: (51)

Get rid of the servo and go manual. Put a bigger arm on the choke rod and go out the front to just behind the prop.you can use a piece of my rod for a guide and attach it to the crankcase with a tv sealant.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

About half of my airplanes use a manual choke rod and the others use a servo actuated choke or no linkage at all and I just activate the choke with my finger or a stick. I really have no preference and use whatever works best on a particular engine / airplane combination. In some cases it would have been impossible to use a servo and in other cases it would have been impossible to use a manual rod. I recommend whatever works best for the particular installation.

spaceworm

I too fly 72, Futaba 7CAP.

Sincerely, Richard

[email protected]

My Feedback: (1)

i have 12 futaba all 4 and 6 channels all on 72 not any trouble>> i have 4 gas engines with 72 no trouble>>> i have seen 2.4 at our field go into the dirt a couple times sometimes the flyers dont check what plane they are flying and then wowiam 83 and i think ill stay on 72

dirtybird

My Feedback: (5)

I saw people flying reeds several years after propo came out. Eventually they all died out.
Some people are just not comfortable with anything new.Eventually they will discover what they are missing.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

I have two Futaba radios on 72 mhz and fly several planes with them still. Nothing wrong with 72 mhz, it has worked fine for many years with the proper precautions. Having said all that, I LOVE my Hitec Aurora 9 on 2.4....

AV8TOR

sensei

Personally I like using the Nyrod only method, no servos for chokes in my own stuff, just can't see carrying any extra trash/weight on board. In late 2006 I changed over to 2.4 from 72 mhz. I like flying at shows and events, as time goes on more are banning the use of 72 mhz. at these events and doing so for good reason...

Bob

dirtybird

My Feedback: (5)

There is one significant thing wrong with 72 as compared with 2.4. It is wide open to interference, both from external devices, and devices carried within your aircraft.

[email protected]

My Feedback: (1)

i got 12 futabas all on 72 had them all for years no trouble with them each plane wing transmitter has a number cant screw up

dirtybird

My Feedback: (5)

wow lucky you
I had four incidents during my days on 72. A friend of mine lost a $1000 Byron Pitts due to screw up by the impound crew.
None of these would have happened if we had been on 2.4

[email protected]

My Feedback: (1)

i saw 2 pattern planes go in at the same time at my field on 2.4so that means all radios can go bad at times??????