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DLE Carb Rebuild Kits

Old 08-08-2015, 07:50 AM
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Lifer
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Default DLE Carb Rebuild Kits

Just completed a carb kit on an 8 year old G-62. No problems. Thought I'd buy a kit for a DLE 20 and 55 and have them on-hand if they are ever needed. Checked Tower and Valley View RC but no listings could be found.

Does anybody know where they can be purchased?
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Old 08-08-2015, 07:52 AM
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Valley View RC
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Old 08-08-2015, 08:00 AM
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I appreciate the quick reply, but as I said in the first post, they don't list them.
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Old 08-08-2015, 09:02 AM
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You need a Walbro K20-WAT kit. These are available from any good small engine shop or there are multiple vendors on Ebay @ less than $10. I prefer the genuine Walbro parts though Stens is acceptable. I avoid the unbranded Chinese kits ... they could be OK or not, I just don't know and the genuine parts are available at a reasonable price.
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Old 08-08-2015, 09:08 AM
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Lawn mower shops, E-Bay, Amazon, etc.
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Old 08-08-2015, 09:31 AM
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Thanks for the reply's! Dirtybird was right as these kits are available from VVRC but they don't list them as DLE carb kits so it wasn't apparent that they are the same.

Does the DLE 55 use the same kit?
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Old 08-08-2015, 09:38 AM
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Yes, the DLE carb uses the Walbro kit. The newer DLE carbs are so identical to a Walbro I would guess they are made in the same factory.
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Old 08-08-2015, 11:53 AM
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According to the VVRC site the K10-WAT kit is for the DLE 20 and the K20-WAT kit is for the DLE 55.
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Old 08-08-2015, 12:44 PM
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You almost need to buy both kits just to see which one is the exact match. I know the K20 WAT kit fits the 55 and 30. Have not rebuilt a 20 carb yet.
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Old 08-08-2015, 03:26 PM
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I'll buy one of each to have on-hand but will buy from ebay. I've bought engines from VVRC and they are great people but ebay is 1/3rd the price for these kits.
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Old 08-09-2015, 09:06 AM
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They both have the same diaphrams, and gaskets, only the K20 comes with more parts. The metering needle, etc. But, they both come with both diaphrams.
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Old 08-09-2015, 09:07 AM
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You will need both I have done the 20 POC
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Old 08-09-2015, 09:07 AM
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If your looking to order, try Chalmers i think it is. Just ordered a few kits from them. They were cheaper than alot of places and i got them in two days. Id gladly order there again.

Last edited by stevegauth30; 08-09-2015 at 09:18 AM.
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Old 08-09-2015, 09:18 AM
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Just edited. Its Chalmers.
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Old 08-09-2015, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by stevegauth30 View Post
They both have the same diaphrams, and gaskets, only the K20 comes with more parts. The metering needle, etc. But, they both come with both diaphrams.
I just rebuilt (2) Non - DLE carbs last night. One carb required the K10 kit, the other the K20. While some of the diaphragms are the same between the kits, some are also different so the kits are not the same. Yes, as stated the K20 kit had more parts but most of those extra parts are not used for an RC carb. One carb required a diaphragm only contained in the K10 kit, likewise for the other carb and the K20 kit.

These were real Walbro kits and not Stens, Oregon or some Chinese clone and contents may vary between brands.
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Old 08-09-2015, 12:20 PM
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Where do you source your genuine Walbro carb kits Truckracer?

Thanks,
AV8TOR
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Old 08-09-2015, 12:47 PM
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Almost always from Ebay sources, whichever one has the best price at the time. They usually advertise whether they are real Walbro parts or not and free shipping is often available if you buy a certain quantity. I bought so many the last go around I haven't had to buy any for awhile now. As mentioned before, the Stens kits also seem to be quite good and for all I know, all the parts might be single source by now with the only difference being packaging. I only know I've had continued good results with the Walbro parts so I stay with them.
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Old 12-12-2015, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Truckracer View Post
You need a Walbro K20-WAT kit. These are available from any good small engine shop or there are multiple vendors on Ebay @ less than $10. I prefer the genuine Walbro parts though Stens is acceptable. I avoid the unbranded Chinese kits ... they could be OK or not, I just don't know and the genuine parts are available at a reasonable price.
It sounds like you are pretty knowledgeable. I have a DLE-30 that I bought last year and tried to start, but it doesn't seem to suck fuel. Is that a common problem solvable by a carb rebuild?
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Old 12-12-2015, 05:35 PM
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The most common reason a carb doesn't suck fuel when choked is caused by the pump diaphragm flappers being stuck closed due to being dry. The carb may need a rebuild kit but most times you can just open the carb and wet the diaphragm with some fuel and it will start working. The pump diaphragm is located under the cover retained by one large screw. If the carb has some run time on it, another common cause is the strainer screen being plugged. Again, this is also located under the pump diaphragm and it can be removed and cleaned with a bit of carb cleaner. Be sure the screen actually passes liquid as sometimes they get coated with a clear film that will not pass fuel even though the screen looks good. A third cause might be a stuck metering needle and this is located under the cover retained by (4) small screws. Again, a bit of gas shot under the diaphragm and manually moving the metering lever a few times will make it functional once again.

The carb may need a rebuild kit but if the diaphragms are soft and flexible they should be OK for additional service. Hope this helps.

Last edited by Truckracer; 12-12-2015 at 05:37 PM.
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Old 12-14-2015, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Truckracer View Post
The most common reason a carb doesn't suck fuel when choked is caused by the pump diaphragm flappers being stuck closed due to being dry. The carb may need a rebuild kit but most times you can just open the carb and wet the diaphragm with some fuel and it will start working. The pump diaphragm is located under the cover retained by one large screw. If the carb has some run time on it, another common cause is the strainer screen being plugged. Again, this is also located under the pump diaphragm and it can be removed and cleaned with a bit of carb cleaner. Be sure the screen actually passes liquid as sometimes they get coated with a clear film that will not pass fuel even though the screen looks good. A third cause might be a stuck metering needle and this is located under the cover retained by (4) small screws. Again, a bit of gas shot under the diaphragm and manually moving the metering lever a few times will make it functional once again.

The carb may need a rebuild kit but if the diaphragms are soft and flexible they should be OK for additional service. Hope this helps.
Thanks, this one is straight out of the box, never run. Will try to look at the diaphragm. Are you saying the screen gets coated with a clear film at the factory?
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Old 12-14-2015, 04:10 PM
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The clear film seems to be the result of fuel or oil residue drying up in the carb. Not something you would see on a new carb. In contrast, the valves sticking is often seen on new carbs where they are completely dry. Just a bit of fresh gas in the right places seems to resolve the issue in short order.
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Old 12-14-2015, 04:48 PM
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$8 + shipping

http://www.davesmotors.com/walbro-wt...t-k20-wat.html
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