NGH 30cc 4 stroke
10-30-2015, 07:44 PM
#5
$360 from AliExpress
- Displacement: 29.91cc
- Bore: 36mm
- Stroke: 29.4mm
- RPM Range: 1600 - 8500rpm
- Output: 3.16HP @ 9000rpm
- Engine Weight: 1150g
- CDI Weight: 100g
- Ignition Battery: DC 4.8V - 8.4V 1000mAh
- Suggested Props: 15x10, 16x8, 16x10, 17x8, 17x10
- Requires: 2-cycle oil, unleaded gasoline
- Ratio of lubricating capacity: 35:1
- Displacement: 29.91cc
- Bore: 36mm
- Stroke: 29.4mm
- RPM Range: 1600 - 8500rpm
- Output: 3.16HP @ 9000rpm
- Engine Weight: 1150g
- CDI Weight: 100g
- Ignition Battery: DC 4.8V - 8.4V 1000mAh
- Suggested Props: 15x10, 16x8, 16x10, 17x8, 17x10
- Requires: 2-cycle oil, unleaded gasoline
- Ratio of lubricating capacity: 35:1
11-12-2015, 12:30 PM
#7
01-05-2016, 09:16 PM
#9
01-06-2016, 01:09 AM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: goolwasa, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,680
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If that vid is from the factory that crusty old looking fuel can doesn't instill one with confidence . Having said that I do hope this engine works out ok . Cheers
03-29-2016, 06:47 AM
#15
Mine arrived today from hobbyking :-)
Looks realy good.
Packed well, and like all the accesiries that are included. Manual seems good too with 5 pages of information :-)
Engine has been factory tested, judging from the soot in the exhaust.
It includes a muffler unlike the GF-38, which is great.
Its not just a hollow tube, but there is a baffle full of holes inside it.
It has the same mouning dimensions as the OS 120 FS, as you can see inb the side by side pics I took of the two together :-)
The included alu beam mounts are also a nice feature, and you can adjustslide the engine back and fourth about 15mm to on the mount to make your spinner gap to cowl perfect.
RCEXL ignition and CM 6 plug.
There is a TCD index mark on the prop driver now :-)
Feeler gauge included for adjusting the valve clearance.
Very please with it so far, and it is well worth the price....at least if it works properly:-)
Anyone else got one yet ?
Looks realy good.
Packed well, and like all the accesiries that are included. Manual seems good too with 5 pages of information :-)
Engine has been factory tested, judging from the soot in the exhaust.
It includes a muffler unlike the GF-38, which is great.
Its not just a hollow tube, but there is a baffle full of holes inside it.
It has the same mouning dimensions as the OS 120 FS, as you can see inb the side by side pics I took of the two together :-)
The included alu beam mounts are also a nice feature, and you can adjustslide the engine back and fourth about 15mm to on the mount to make your spinner gap to cowl perfect.
RCEXL ignition and CM 6 plug.
There is a TCD index mark on the prop driver now :-)
Feeler gauge included for adjusting the valve clearance.
Very please with it so far, and it is well worth the price....at least if it works properly:-)
Anyone else got one yet ?
03-29-2016, 09:16 AM
#16
I disassembled my engine too inspect it :-)
It is very nicely machined, so the parts fit are great.
It uses the traditional setup of a 4 stroke engine, so it is easy to work on.
There is a hole machined into the rocker box connecting the intake like the newer OS glow engines which should pull lube oil from the crank case throgh the cam parts, and valve train, so that is pretty nice.
But, out of the box, it is bone dry in the rocker box , and that sucks.
So I would deffinatly reccomend to open it up, and lube everything in there.
The cylinder/piston , crank, and cam were lubricated....I hope they did this before running it at the factory.
Many of the bolts need to be re-torqued.
It seems that the gaskets have compressed, and the bolts have loosened up.
The cylinder block bolts to crack case could be tightnened a little, also the back case cover.
But the cylinder head bolts were ok, becase there is a metal packing there which does not compress.
Also the intake tube between the carb and cylinder was loose, becase the teflon isolator block had compressed.
But on the right side cam cover the screws were only hand tightened.....first I thought I had taken the wrong hex key because it felt like it was not grabbing......but the screw was just turning freely :-)
So tighten all screws.
There is a grub screw in the rocker box which holds the rocker arm pivot shaft, and it was so tight that I could not loosen it.....but that is a good thing...it will stay put :-)
The cylinder head bolts are undernieth, but you can still get a hex key on the bolts without removing the shaft.
My cam shaft was 1 tooth off.
That is also the reason that I wanted to take the engine apart, to see if I could get it perfect.
You lign up the TDC mark on the prop hub, and the dot on the cam should point streight down on the molded line of the cam box.
And I could move it one tooth to align perfectly.
Mine was one tooth more clockwise out of the box.
You can always wonder if this was done on purpose, but I doubt it :-)
You can very easy install the cam a tooth wrong if you are putting these together in a hurry.
We will se how it runs :-)
Out of the box, the valve clearance is set very tight, and seems ok.
Valves are not mistakenly held open.
It is very nicely machined, so the parts fit are great.
It uses the traditional setup of a 4 stroke engine, so it is easy to work on.
There is a hole machined into the rocker box connecting the intake like the newer OS glow engines which should pull lube oil from the crank case throgh the cam parts, and valve train, so that is pretty nice.
But, out of the box, it is bone dry in the rocker box , and that sucks.
So I would deffinatly reccomend to open it up, and lube everything in there.
The cylinder/piston , crank, and cam were lubricated....I hope they did this before running it at the factory.
Many of the bolts need to be re-torqued.
It seems that the gaskets have compressed, and the bolts have loosened up.
The cylinder block bolts to crack case could be tightnened a little, also the back case cover.
But the cylinder head bolts were ok, becase there is a metal packing there which does not compress.
Also the intake tube between the carb and cylinder was loose, becase the teflon isolator block had compressed.
But on the right side cam cover the screws were only hand tightened.....first I thought I had taken the wrong hex key because it felt like it was not grabbing......but the screw was just turning freely :-)
So tighten all screws.
There is a grub screw in the rocker box which holds the rocker arm pivot shaft, and it was so tight that I could not loosen it.....but that is a good thing...it will stay put :-)
The cylinder head bolts are undernieth, but you can still get a hex key on the bolts without removing the shaft.
My cam shaft was 1 tooth off.
That is also the reason that I wanted to take the engine apart, to see if I could get it perfect.
You lign up the TDC mark on the prop hub, and the dot on the cam should point streight down on the molded line of the cam box.
And I could move it one tooth to align perfectly.
Mine was one tooth more clockwise out of the box.
You can always wonder if this was done on purpose, but I doubt it :-)
You can very easy install the cam a tooth wrong if you are putting these together in a hurry.
We will se how it runs :-)
Out of the box, the valve clearance is set very tight, and seems ok.
Valves are not mistakenly held open.
03-30-2016, 02:53 AM
#17
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: EllinikoAthens, GREECE
Posts: 1,079
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Seriously tempted about this one; if the quality is acceptable the price / quality ratio is through the roof compared to equivalent 30cc 4-strokes!
Eagerly waiting your test run report - thorough as usual
Eagerly waiting your test run report - thorough as usual
03-30-2016, 04:17 AM
#18
Will be trying it out in my black horse PITTS.
Installing it inverted.
I had a 90 degree exhaust nuckle from an OS 120 I bought ages ago, which makes the muffler installation very compact :-)
Installing it inverted.
I had a 90 degree exhaust nuckle from an OS 120 I bought ages ago, which makes the muffler installation very compact :-)
03-30-2016, 04:30 AM
#19
04-02-2016, 01:35 AM
#21
Test fired it up today 
Plane is not quite finished yet, and I have ordered a 16x10 and 17x8 prop, and an alu spinner for it.
So I just used a 16x8 prop, and the supplied plastic spinner just to get it started :-)
My electric starter can crank the engine, so I will no be using the choke.....no need to hook up a servo to it then :-)
In the video it did not start the first few tries, because the throttle was set too low.
I also forgot to remove the fuel stopper on my vent line, and it made a nice hissing sound when I pulled it off after the video.....so the carb pump is working strong :-)
Looking forward to taking it out and breaking in the engine, and adjusting it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7c4HfOg4DI8&feature=youtu.be
Plane is not quite finished yet, and I have ordered a 16x10 and 17x8 prop, and an alu spinner for it.
So I just used a 16x8 prop, and the supplied plastic spinner just to get it started :-)
My electric starter can crank the engine, so I will no be using the choke.....no need to hook up a servo to it then :-)
In the video it did not start the first few tries, because the throttle was set too low.
I also forgot to remove the fuel stopper on my vent line, and it made a nice hissing sound when I pulled it off after the video.....so the carb pump is working strong :-)
Looking forward to taking it out and breaking in the engine, and adjusting it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7c4HfOg4DI8&feature=youtu.be
04-02-2016, 04:28 AM
#22
My Feedback: (2)
Nice looking install. My only thought is the opening on the venturi pointing straight up - just begging for something to drop into it. Carb openings not something I generally spend much time worrying about, but here, thinking I'd have to come up with some type of screen for it.
04-02-2016, 10:37 AM
#23
Yea, the venturi is huge :-)
But once the cowl is on, there should not be anything loose in there to drop into it.
The intake line on the cylinder is quite small, and will not allow anything big in there anyway.
But once the cowl is on, there should not be anything loose in there to drop into it.
The intake line on the cylinder is quite small, and will not allow anything big in there anyway.