Cheap DLE 30- too good to be true?
#1
Cheap DLE 30- too good to be true?
I'm looking for a 30 for my P-40 that I set up with an early AGM 30 that I'm frustrated with and want to start fresh. While searching around I came across these on AGM's site by accident, selling DLE 30's for $218 and $4.17 for shipping, where most of the other retailers are selling them for around $285. Am I missing something here; has anybody bought a DLE from AGM? I no longer trust AGM, at least with their own engines, and I worry that these DLE's may be factory seconds or something like that.
http://www.agmhobby.com/item/new-dle...er-p-1040.html
http://www.agmhobby.com/item/new-dle...er-p-1040.html
#3
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: lake in the Hills,
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Wild guess:
is that Tower may be losing "exclusive rights". Even if Tower retains "exclusive rights" vendors with foot prints outside the US may have a loop hole they are using.
The RA 35 is the market darling right now and the low price on the 30 could be inventory related.
My conclusion is..... it is a real DLE 30 and you can expect AGM type customer service.
is that Tower may be losing "exclusive rights". Even if Tower retains "exclusive rights" vendors with foot prints outside the US may have a loop hole they are using.
The RA 35 is the market darling right now and the low price on the 30 could be inventory related.
My conclusion is..... it is a real DLE 30 and you can expect AGM type customer service.
#7
My Feedback: (19)
I hope not. I like the 35 and own one but also like the 30 and own (2) of them. With them having different exhaust configurations, neither configuration is good for all applications so having both allows for a choice. If the 30 went away, the EME 35 would probably get much more attention from those preferring a side exhaust engine. But who knows and I prefer not to entertain any rumors.
#12
So I think this thing is counterfeit? The box and instructions (note the spelling error on the box), the corrosion on the case, and the incorrect carb all look like red flags to me. This is the same carb they were using on the AGM 30 which had the spring loaded piece to hold the choke closed. If you look at the link above it shows the normal DLE carb, stamped DLE and with normal linkage. The engine has been mounted...does DLE mount and run new engines before shipping?
DLE is embossed on the crankcase and head and it's etched into the spark plug cap, it's in an RCxel bag and a white stick on label over the RCxel badge on the ignition box.
In the mean time I have an email out to DLE to see if they can help determine if it's authentic, but I think I know the answer. If it's fake I'm not sure whether to take my chances with it or try and get my money back.
DLE is embossed on the crankcase and head and it's etched into the spark plug cap, it's in an RCxel bag and a white stick on label over the RCxel badge on the ignition box.
In the mean time I have an email out to DLE to see if they can help determine if it's authentic, but I think I know the answer. If it's fake I'm not sure whether to take my chances with it or try and get my money back.
#14
If it runs fine I don't have a problem keeping it, and really if it runs good then it was worth the asking price. I just worry that it won't run and I wanted to go DLE because I was frustrated with the AGM.
#15
So far so good. I emailed DLE but they didn't even reply back, which is disappointing. I went ahead and mounted it up in the plane and we had a nice day today so I ran it for the first time. I had a heck of a time getting it to draw fuel but when it finally did the engine ran perfectly. Excellent transition and a perfect, stable, low idle without adjusting the needles or idle screw out of the box. Hopefully it continues to run this good in the air.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Q-YDdpw2hY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Q-YDdpw2hY
#18
My Feedback: (2)
The factory settings are designed to get the engine started the first time around. Beyond that, there is no way the factory can know the conditions your engine will be running in,what size prop you are running or any other variable that might be in play - that can all make a difference in the needle settings YOUR engine requires.
I would highly recommend you tune the engine properly prior to your first flight. Even if you manage that perfectly, I would fully expect the engine to require further tuning changes once it's airborne.
Bottom line, the factory settings are NOT intended to be "close enough" for anything but initial startup! Assuming anything else has caused a huge number of crashes - NOT to be blamed on the engine...
I would highly recommend you tune the engine properly prior to your first flight. Even if you manage that perfectly, I would fully expect the engine to require further tuning changes once it's airborne.
Bottom line, the factory settings are NOT intended to be "close enough" for anything but initial startup! Assuming anything else has caused a huge number of crashes - NOT to be blamed on the engine...
#19
O.k come down off the ledge and we can talk about it. I've run engines right out of the box before and it's not that drastic. Yes they will run better with some tuning, but no need to throw the book at the guy.
#20
Thanks for that. I had another reply typed up that night but decided to just close the page. Nowhere did I say or imply I was going straight to the field with it without touching the carb.
#21
My Feedback: (2)
Greg,
The fact you seemed pretty happy with the way it was running (post #'s 15 & 17) and didn't mention you were planning on tuning further prior to flying when responding to my note (#16), caused me to assume you were another rookie heading down the road leading to an expensive lesson learned the hard way. I'm the product of many of those hard learned lessons from way back myself - when we didn't have forums like this one available to share experiences - and was simply trying to head you off.
Many apologies if that intervention (ASSumption) came across improperly. That was certainly not my intent. -Al
The fact you seemed pretty happy with the way it was running (post #'s 15 & 17) and didn't mention you were planning on tuning further prior to flying when responding to my note (#16), caused me to assume you were another rookie heading down the road leading to an expensive lesson learned the hard way. I'm the product of many of those hard learned lessons from way back myself - when we didn't have forums like this one available to share experiences - and was simply trying to head you off.
Many apologies if that intervention (ASSumption) came across improperly. That was certainly not my intent. -Al
#22
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Join Date: Sep 2002
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As a side note, Valley View RC is back in the DLE business, DLE tried to make Tower the sole distributor/repair site in the US. They took VVRC's dealership away only to bring them back after seeing their mistake.
I and many friends deal with them and are very satisfied with them, GOOD FOLKS!
I and many friends deal with them and are very satisfied with them, GOOD FOLKS!
#23
My Feedback: (19)
I don't believe that Al's statements were "throwing the book" regarding adjusting the needles. Frankly, he was right on the mark in my opinion. Other people read these threads and some newbie lurking out there might read the original statements about running the engine right out of the box w/o adjustments as being a good and normal way to go. If that same guy reads ahicks post, that might bring him back to reality. If in gregandhollie's post, he had made mention that further adjusts would be made before flight, none of the last few posts including this one would have been necessary.