hand starting
03-30-2016, 08:57 AM
#27
I've seen guys barely bat at the prop of a G38 and it purrs away. I can get my G26 to pop when I hand flip it but it hardly ever catches; enter the Sullivan for the win but I would rather hand flip it.
For those of you who can hand start a magneto gas engine without a spring starter or jump start, please post up your procedure and what engine it works on.
carl
For those of you who can hand start a magneto gas engine without a spring starter or jump start, please post up your procedure and what engine it works on.
carl
03-30-2016, 10:47 AM
#28
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: San Tan Valley,
AZ
Posts: 5,768
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
On a magneto engine you charge the coil by flipping the motor over. The faster the better. On a G-38 the flywheel is larger so you can get a good charge wiht a slower flip. The flywheel on the G26 is smaller so you need a faster flip.
C&H used to sell a device that charged the coil from a battery so it made it easier to start. I don't know if they still do.
C&H used to sell a device that charged the coil from a battery so it made it easier to start. I don't know if they still do.
03-30-2016, 11:15 AM
#29
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: lake in the Hills,
IL
Posts: 977
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
14 Posts
This is sort of funny, I have been flying gas for years (14) and have never owned or wanted to own a magneto ignition engine. They are great for lawn & garden equipment. I think they will have an important role in sUAV's. In my hangar though if it is heavy, I don't want it. Magneto's are heavy.
I think going home without injury should be the number one factor in all we do!
Although for electronic ignitions the power gains from a timing advance are minimal, the ability to hand start easily is very practical.
I think going home without injury should be the number one factor in all we do!
When ever someone at the field is having a starting issue, air, fuel, or spark are missing. When they come together the engine runs (that is all engines that are mechanically sound)
I think going home without injury should be the number one factor in all we do!.
That has been my experience.
I think going home without injury should be the number one factor in all we do!
As for large electric starters, when someone asks me to hold an airplane while they try to push with 50-60 lbs of force on a 35% airplane because they are afraid to hand start or have a bad shoulder or lack arm strength. I have to refuse for safety concerns. Even if they point out that I will not be hurt, I can't participate in something that just seems unsafe to me.
I think going home without injury should be the number one factor in all we do!
20 inch APC, I flip with a 1/2 inch heater hose with a wooden dowel through halve of it (home made chicken stick). Larger or wooden I hand flip wearing a glove.
I think going home without injury should be the number one factor in all we do!
I will use an eighteen volt hi-torque on my Zenoah 20cc ei sometimes in the winter because I can hold the landing gear and push against the prop by myself safely (the carb is dry the first start of the day and this is quick and easy).
I think going home without injury should be the number one factor in all we do!
When all this fails, it is time to fly electric.
I think going home without injury should be the number one factor in all we do!
I'm not sorry about the redundant safety line, no mater how hard it makes my post to read.
I think going home without injury should be the number one factor in all we do!
Although for electronic ignitions the power gains from a timing advance are minimal, the ability to hand start easily is very practical.
I think going home without injury should be the number one factor in all we do!
When ever someone at the field is having a starting issue, air, fuel, or spark are missing. When they come together the engine runs (that is all engines that are mechanically sound)
I think going home without injury should be the number one factor in all we do!.
That has been my experience.
I think going home without injury should be the number one factor in all we do!
As for large electric starters, when someone asks me to hold an airplane while they try to push with 50-60 lbs of force on a 35% airplane because they are afraid to hand start or have a bad shoulder or lack arm strength. I have to refuse for safety concerns. Even if they point out that I will not be hurt, I can't participate in something that just seems unsafe to me.
I think going home without injury should be the number one factor in all we do!
20 inch APC, I flip with a 1/2 inch heater hose with a wooden dowel through halve of it (home made chicken stick). Larger or wooden I hand flip wearing a glove.
I think going home without injury should be the number one factor in all we do!
I will use an eighteen volt hi-torque on my Zenoah 20cc ei sometimes in the winter because I can hold the landing gear and push against the prop by myself safely (the carb is dry the first start of the day and this is quick and easy).
I think going home without injury should be the number one factor in all we do!
When all this fails, it is time to fly electric.
I think going home without injury should be the number one factor in all we do!
I'm not sorry about the redundant safety line, no mater how hard it makes my post to read.
Last edited by kmeyers; 03-30-2016 at 11:39 AM. Reason: safety
03-30-2016, 01:36 PM
#31
My Feedback: (19)
On a magneto engine you charge the coil by flipping the motor over. The faster the better. On a G-38 the flywheel is larger so you can get a good charge wiht a slower flip. The flywheel on the G26 is smaller so you need a faster flip.
C&H used to sell a device that charged the coil from a battery so it made it easier to start. I don't know if they still do.
C&H used to sell a device that charged the coil from a battery so it made it easier to start. I don't know if they still do.
Some flywheels even have the magnets located so it is nearly impossible to get a spark at low, hand flip speeds. A hand flip just doesn't produce enough rotational arc to produce a spark in this case.These work great in their original application with a rope pull starter where the crank rotates through several rotations but not so good for a hand started airplane engine. By contrast, some mag engines start quite easily by hand. It all depends on the particular engine.
04-03-2016, 09:59 PM
#33
Senior Member
On a magneto engine you charge the coil by flipping the motor over. The faster the better. On a G-38 the flywheel is larger so you can get a good charge wiht a slower flip. The flywheel on the G26 is smaller so you need a faster flip.
C&H used to sell a device that charged the coil from a battery so it made it easier to start. I don't know if they still do.
C&H used to sell a device that charged the coil from a battery so it made it easier to start. I don't know if they still do.
BCCHI. Tired old CH guy
04-04-2016, 06:17 AM
#34
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: lake in the Hills,
IL
Posts: 977
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
14 Posts
+ 1 Convert to CDI.
There will always be times when a pilot can not start his own plane. That is when friends, education and engineering come into play.
There will always be times when a pilot can not start his own plane. That is when friends, education and engineering come into play.
Last edited by kmeyers; 04-04-2016 at 06:25 AM.
04-04-2016, 05:58 PM
#35
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: quincy,
MI
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Stick 40,
The interference I was referring to above would be generated by the plug cap....so regardless of whether you have an electronic ignition or a magneto.....if the cap is loose.....you'll get interference...no matter what radio you use.
In the days of 72mhz and gas engines....you didn't want any metal to metal contact because gas engines vibrate more than glow engines. Metal to metal contact generates RF which would interfere with 72mhz systems. This is why a simple "Z" bend for the throttles in Helicopters was also a no no.....all of the built up vibration would cause the "z" bend to vibrate against the metal throttle arm and generate RF in close quarters to the radio...causing at least interference...at most...a PCM lockout (I know this for a fact...).
Newer 2.4ghz systems are more immune to this small amount of RF noise however it is still best practice to use a non-metal to metal pushrod to your gas engine throttle. Most of us use a ball link which is secure and vibration free.
Most of the folks responding to this thread are "The Pro's from Dover" (M*A*S*H* quote) so they know what they're talking about. Most modern gas engines available today are reliable and easy starting (if bought from a reliable source). Only the very small gas engines require anything other than hand starting. Bigger airplanes require a little more attention to detail when installing components however they will fly better and last longer than the slime engulfed glow airframes...in my humble opinion.
CB
The interference I was referring to above would be generated by the plug cap....so regardless of whether you have an electronic ignition or a magneto.....if the cap is loose.....you'll get interference...no matter what radio you use.
In the days of 72mhz and gas engines....you didn't want any metal to metal contact because gas engines vibrate more than glow engines. Metal to metal contact generates RF which would interfere with 72mhz systems. This is why a simple "Z" bend for the throttles in Helicopters was also a no no.....all of the built up vibration would cause the "z" bend to vibrate against the metal throttle arm and generate RF in close quarters to the radio...causing at least interference...at most...a PCM lockout (I know this for a fact...).
Newer 2.4ghz systems are more immune to this small amount of RF noise however it is still best practice to use a non-metal to metal pushrod to your gas engine throttle. Most of us use a ball link which is secure and vibration free.
Most of the folks responding to this thread are "The Pro's from Dover" (M*A*S*H* quote) so they know what they're talking about. Most modern gas engines available today are reliable and easy starting (if bought from a reliable source). Only the very small gas engines require anything other than hand starting. Bigger airplanes require a little more attention to detail when installing components however they will fly better and last longer than the slime engulfed glow airframes...in my humble opinion.
CB
good advice.
thanks
sticks
