ForcesR

gilles1, the throttle is fully opened as per the manual start instructions when using the choke bar.

757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

I call it more of an "primer" than a choke. Actually what it does is slide the barrel and needle clear of the fuel inlet allowing raw fuel to be drawn/pumped into the carb throat. Works great.. I made up a spring loaded piece of wire that contacts the back of the throttle arm to pull mine open. A few flips of the prop with the ignition off and she's primed for start. I wouldn't try that with the ignition on as it might get a little exciting, and Saito is pretty clear about not doing that.

I don't like using electric starters on these engines unless absolutely necessary.

cathurga

As Jon says, its not a traditional choke that causes a vacuum in the jets do draw fuel, it just pulls the jet open to allow fuel to draw. Follow the manual for best results, but I have also had the choke AND ignition on, with throttle set just over idle, and it does the same as a 2-stroke type engine, it 'pops' a bit and then you know there is fuel there. Choke off, a few flips, and off she goes!

gilles1

​​​​​​Do you have a picture of that piece ?

757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

I'm sorry, but I don't have a pic of it and the plane is in storage right now. It's pretty simple. I used a piece of pushrod with a 90 deg bend guided by a brass tube epoxied to the firewall. It's placed in such a manner as to hook behind the throttle arm and allows you to pull on it. A small spring (from a pen) puts a little tension on it to keep it clear of the throttle arm when not in use. Toughest thing I had to solve was how to get hold of the rod to secure it outside the cowl.... wave a magnet over it and the rod pops out! Grab it with pliers and secure with a small collar/allen setscrew. It took me a while to figure out how to do this.... basically start out with the wire and hook and go from there and you can see what you need to do to make it work and NOT interfere with the throttle linkage in any way.

That should keep you out of the bars for a day or two! I'm doing some work on the P47/FG-60 right now. I'll get the Texan/FG-90 in here and get some pics of it in a week or so.

Enjoyav8tion

757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

I just use a hand held unit.....

Happy Thanksgivng everyone!

gilles1

I have it on my radio (jeti dc24) via telemetrie. Its easy and cheap DIY with arduino

Enjoyav8tion

Enjoyav8tion

Suggestions on 3 bladed prop?
Who carries it?

Enjoyav8tion

What is the thread diameter for the exhaust? 14mm or 15mm? I was going to get elbows and attach flexible for my corsair.

757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

It's 14mm. Same as a 120, 150, and 180 Saito single.

darod07

I use 3blade Biela 22x12. With custom made ring muffler it sounds beautiful...

www.youtube.com/watch?v=jakxqgu-VRw

darod07

Thread of stock exhaust tube nuts is 15x1

Enjoyav8tion

That does sound amazing! Nice custom ring! I need to do something similar with several exhaust pipes exiting both sides under the cowl on the sides of the Corsair. Still working on the cowl flaps, very time consuming.

darod07

I had the same idea for my Zero but finally I've given up... Saito makes such a black exhaust stain that whole model would be dirty like a hell. Please check video below:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQmlxmjSbwY

Enjoyav8tion

I guess I kind of figured by the time I finally get it broken in and have reduced the oil content that there wouldn’t be as much. Clearly just wishful thinking

757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

I stand corrected on the exhaust nipple size. It is 15MM vs 14MM. I've got an appointment with the eye doc next week!

Didier

Hello Guys,
Just ordered a Saito FG90R3.

I already have the FG60R3 and installed on this engine a MMM timing ring, since the timing of the FG60R3 was way to advanced (+/- 45 degrees BTDC).
Do you guys know if the latest version of the Saito's the ignition timing is corrected?

In the online instruction manual the ignition battery must be between 6-12V. According to a couple of vendors here in Europe 2S Lipo's is a little bit to high for the FG60R3.
Is the FG90R3 ignition module not the same and what kind of battery's do you use?

Now just looking at an aircraft to put in. ;-)
Seems to be the new Hangar 9 KI-43 Oscar is a perfect fit for this engine with more then enough power according to Ali.
For almost the same price (at least in Europe) you can buy a TopRC Focke-Wulf (full composite) but it seems the FG90R3 is just enough for this engine.
Anyone has a any experience with these airframes/engine combo's?

Your feedback will be much appreciated! :-)

mogman

I've just finished assembling the KI-43 Oscar with the 90 R3.

I have the MMM timing ring, and the modified negative pressure intake with Walbro carb, which allows you to use a 32:1 fuel mix.

Unfortunately, I'll have to wait 'till winter is over before I can get to the flying field.

Dave.

Didier

Ok great. Did you like the airframe in terms of build quality and covering? What prop are you gonna put on the 90R3?

mogman

The quality of the construction is good, (typical of any ARF, go around as many glue joints as possible with some CA) the preparation before covering is good and the covering job was good..a couple of bubbles in the covering in the concave section of the wing root area of the fuse.

Overall, very pleased.

I'm going to start with a 24-12 Falcon 2 blade on the 90.

cathurga

Didier, hi!
I have the TopRC FW190, and the FG90 will be marginal as far as performance is concerned. Mine wasn't built by me so is a little heavy for my liking, but even built as light as possible, I still think the FG90 would be too little engine for it. Just my opinion.

There are a few decent airframes out there for it... Topflight corsair, H9 P-47, The Ki-43 Oscar, Topflight Hellcat and a few others....

Didier

Sounds good! Thanks for info.
I'm planning to use the MMM ring only and of course the "one and only" Meier exhaust for the FG90. ;-)
If I'm gong for the Oscar, I think I'm gonna use a 3 blade prop trying to reduce the "noise" as we have noise restrictions on our field.

Didier

Hey hello!

Indeed IF I was going for the TopRC FW190, I was planning to build it as light as possible.
Carbon wing tubes, fixed tailwheel, light servo's in terms of weight. Probably no nose weight is required and will make the airplane 2-3 pounds lighter.
You are probably right that the Saito still has to work hard to get good performance.
What I don't understand is why people don't complain with the TopRC Zero with the FG90R3?
The Zero seems to be the same as the F190 in terms of weight and seize?