Dle 50 rpm
#1
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Dle 50 rpm
First off, this is my first use of Gas Engines going on a 50 Size Warbird; I have a DLE 50 with a Zoar 22X8 Warbird 2 blade Prop, getting 7500 top end on the ground, would this RPM be more than enough?
Thanks
Thanks
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Appreciate the reply's; can I assume that an on ground RPM of 7000 to 7500 would be more than enough, a couple corrections, my RPM reading was actually 7430 and I believe the prop is actually a 22X10 Zoar Beech Wood Warbird Prop, because I have the 22X8 sitting on the bench; I was thinking that the 7430 wasn't high enough because the manual stated an RPM range up to 8500 and like I said this is my first Gas engine, I'm familiar with the 10k rpm on glow engines; and from the answers a prop range 22X8, 22X10 to 23X8 works with warbirds?
Last edited by dasintex; 08-08-2016 at 04:20 PM.
#11
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RPM in the manual us usually the operating range, not ground RPM. Engines pick up considerable speed in the air. I think you are fine to maybe a bit high on the ground (static) RPM but if it were mine, I'd probably just fly it. If it was an aerobatic plane, I'd probably try to stear you towards the 23/8.
#12
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Just tac'd my new DLE 55RA in a Top Flite P-51 GS ARF this weekend, 1350 rpm at idle and 6950 rpm full throttle on the ground. I'm using a Mejzlik 22x10. Great combination! You'd be surprised at how much more rpm it picks up in the air. My P-51 really hauls and has great vertical. So far I'm very impressed with this engine.
The DLE 55 in the Top Flite P-40 is a great combination. Keep your rpm at 7000 rpm and you will be fine. You won't be disappointed.
The DLE 55 in the Top Flite P-40 is a great combination. Keep your rpm at 7000 rpm and you will be fine. You won't be disappointed.
Last edited by ccostant; 08-08-2016 at 08:00 PM.
#13
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Here's the same plane with a DLE 55 with a 22x8x3 Xoar. Flies a little slower than a 22x10x2 Xoar. Have also used a Beila 20x10x3, and the fastest prop so far is a Mejzlik 20x12x3. The Mejzlik unloads in the air like nothing else I've tried. All test flights were done with a 23x8 for reasons previously stated.
Keep in mind that as you add pitch, the need to apply rudder increases. If you are not yet proficient in the use of rudder, avoid the big P-40 until you are. Sudden left turns and full up to yank it off the ground is not healthy for the big birds.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DWZeLN16d9o
Keep in mind that as you add pitch, the need to apply rudder increases. If you are not yet proficient in the use of rudder, avoid the big P-40 until you are. Sudden left turns and full up to yank it off the ground is not healthy for the big birds.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DWZeLN16d9o
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RPM in the manual us usually the operating range, not ground RPM. Engines pick up considerable speed in the air. I think you are fine to maybe a bit high on the ground (static) RPM but if it were mine, I'd probably just fly it. If it was an aerobatic plane, I'd probably try to stear you towards the 23/8.
'TRUCKRACER': are you saying if flying Aerobatic go with a 23X8, since I am a scale flying guy would the 22X10 be alright or still switch to the 23X8?
As a matter of information, I have a Top Flite Giant FW 190 & Japanese Zero to finish, both will get DLE55 Engines, I am going to run ZOAR WWII 3 Bladed Props, my thought for size would be 22X10, right size or go with 22X8?
Thanks.
Last edited by dasintex; 08-09-2016 at 04:43 AM.
#15
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Typically when you go to a 3 blade you drop down in diameter and up in pitch. More load on the engine with 3 blades vs 2 blades. A 22x10 3-blade would probably be okay, I'd go with a 20x10 3-blade. It really depends on what you like, availability of 3-balde props, and how each plane/engine/prop combo performs. I've used XOAR props and I like them a lot.
Last edited by ccostant; 08-09-2016 at 06:27 AM.
#16
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Changing from something like a 22-10 to a 23-8 is kinda like shifting a car or truck to a lower gear. You gain pull or in this case your climb ability increases. At the same time you go a bit slower and get increased prop breaking on the down lines when you pull the throttle back. You'll get very little down line breaking from a 22-10. It's all about your personal preference and how you want the plane to perform. On round cowl engines, increased diameter helps get the prop tips further away from the cowl.
#23
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I don't use a torque wrench and don't know anyone that does. I believe the main thing is to tighten in a criss cross fashion and if you feel a wood prop yield to the torque, its too tight. Check for the bolts being tight before each flying day. Aftera few retightenings, the prop / bolts will become stable and not require additional tightening but check them often anyway. Carbon props don't yield (compress) like wood but check them often. Never use any kind of thread locker on the prop bolts. Good info anove about torque values if you choose to go that way. Just personal preference whether to measure torque or not.