beigemonkey

Hate to post a new thread but didn't find one that addresses this question.
Just finishing up engine an tank install on my first airplane build. Wondering about a couple last details before I mount the cowel and prop and call it good. It's a nice Zenoah G26 with a standard side mount muffler. Should I or can I do anything special to mount the muffler to try to prevent screws from withdrawing over time. I see some guys use locktite while others say the heat makes locktite useless. I have been careful about balancing my prop and spinner so hoping vibration is limited. Just trying to take all precautions. On that note, what about the carbuerator? Should I do anything with the two bolts that fasten it to the engine or just leave it alone?

Lastly, the gasoline question. I'm following the Zenoah operating directions but wondering what gas to use. Looks like any degree of ethanol is not desirable but unsure where to buy gas without it up here in Maine. Does this matter much and/or is there a gas available through rc stores that sell special gasoline? Haven't seen it myself but new to this hobby. Any help would be appreciated.

While I'm at it, one last thing. Will be testing my gas tank for leaks but just realized I didn't factor how to then drain it. I'm thinking the best way would be to T off from the feed line to the carb and put in a fuel dot that will be a drain port since the clunk line is the lowest line in the tank. Is that the way to go or should I turn down the fill up line so it goes to the bottom of the tank so I can drain through the same line... or is there no difference here?
Thanks in advance for helping a rookie.
Norm

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

Use lock washers on the screws for the muffler if they will fit. I run ethanol free gas available at Home Depot through the engine for two minutes at the end of the day. Drain the tank through the fill line if you can. Dan.

kmeyers

I'm sort of hoping that you have somehow missed all the normal channels of info.

I use no gasket and high temp RTV on my muffler bolts after a good cleaning of the threads and holes. When a pitts muffler is used the only difference is a support strap to the engine mounting somewhere.

I use pump gas (regular 87 oct) and synthetic 2 cycle air cooled oil at 32:1 (all my engines have needle bearing on the connecting rod).

All bolts are tightened to manufactures specs (the carb usually attaches to a plastic insulator block and has a very low toque spec). I use high temp RTV here as well.

The most common is as you described, T and fuel dot. No on turning down the vent. Add a loop of tubing from the vent exit to the back of the tank back to near the vent exit than out of the plane to prevent siphoning. Today I only use Viton tubing, it is low in cost enough and very long lived.

My little Zenoah 20 is coming up on 1000 hours.

Good luck. This is just how I do it, not the final word.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Follow kmeyers advice and you won't go wrong. Red Loctite can work well on clean exhaust bolts if it is the high temperature variety. The only thing I do different is that I don't use any sort of sealer on the carb bolts or gaskets. Never had one come loose.

spaceworm

My only add. is to tighten the muffler bolts, then tighten them again when the engine is hot. Works for me. Good luck

beigemonkey

Thanks to all for your help. I've seen various opinions by now and each of yours seem to be among the most popular. I might also try the method that involves drilling small holes through the heads of the bolts and running a small wire through them to tie together. Might be overkill but have read too many horror stories not to use belt and suspenders if I can.
Thanks again
Norm

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

With good practices, loose mufflers are not common. Once one gets loose and beats the threads in the cylinder out of shape and loose, then all bets are off.

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

+1 on the High Temp RTV for use as a gasket and threads.

I have been using Avgas for years with Redline 2 stroke racing oil at 40 to 1 with no problems in all my gas engines.

Pete

acdii

Check to see if the premium fuels in your area are E Free, most usually are, otherwise you can buy a can of real gas already blended with oil as mentioned, and run an ounce or so at the end of the day. Draining the tank and running an ounce through should clear any residual ethanol from the system.

I myself don't bother draining the tank completely, only what comes out, then plug all the lines. I try to keep fuel in the feed line so that the line stays flexible in the tank, otherwise if it sits too long it stiffens and wont flop around like it should. Been storing the planes like this for a few years now, and so far, no issues. As long as the tank is sealed, the left over fuel and oil stays good. I usually squirt some form of oil in the engine for storage, like a fogger type from Napa, or Marvel Mystery oil to coat the crankcase and bearings. Fresh fuel in the spring and the engines fire right up.

Unlike glow engines, the gas carbs are pretty well sealed up between the carb and tank, so the fuel doesn't evaporate or spill out like they do in a glow setup.

For my tank setup I use a 3 line for everything. One for vent, one for feed and one for fill, with two clunk lines. The second clunk line for fill helps remove just about all the fuel and leaves fuel in the feed line as long as the vent is open. Then cap both the fill and vent line, no smell, no spill, no worries.

Forgot to mention I run Premium ethanol free gas from BP.