jwrich

My Feedback: (17)

I have a DLE-30, that I have had problems with almost from day one. I have replaced the Carb with a real Walbro Carb, replaced the hall senser and timed the engine. I have had on an engine run up stand for a while just to try get it running right. Yesterday I tried it again. Pull the plug to ensure I get a spark, ok got a spark, when removing the plug the cap separated, circle ring flew off. So I held it back together and used a hose clamp to hold it to the plug. Tested again for a spark, NO Spark.

On Mile High and Valley View sites sell a replacement caps. Both show the parts, which shows a resister or diod, (sorry about misspelled words). I am not sure where this resister/diod goes.

At this time I am about ready to buy a new engine, very frustrated.

Thanks
Rich

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

The resistor gets inserted into the center of the plug wire. The other lead of the resistor goes into a spring that contacts the top electrode of the spark plug. There is no polarity on the resistor, it can go in either way.

AV8TOR

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I don't know how you managed to pry open that plug boot to the point the circlip flew off, but the thought occurs to me that the silicon liner inside that cap may have been damaged in the process. If that were the case, spark can short circuit from the wire to the case, easier than it can bridge the spark plug gap. This happens frequently after a rough landing, where the spark plug cap has engaged the dirt, so replacement parts are available reasonably.

If you can hear the spark snapping, but you can't see it bridging the plug gap, that silicone liner is your issue for sure. Problem is you can't always hear it. When you can is a dead give away though....

Also, the plugs supplied with the DLE engines have a terrible reputation. Most recommend they be replaced immediately with an NGK CM-6.

Last, one end of the diode is stuck in the center of the spark plug wire as it enters the cap, and the other end engages the small spring seen deep inside that cap. Anything is possible, but the chance of that being an issue are pretty remote.

Have patience, you'll get through this.....

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Yep, and here's a pic I stole from one of JediJody's posts for you. (The silicone insulation in this case has been cut in half for illustration purposes. If you look close, you can see it on the backside, lining the metal cap.)

AV8TOR

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

1k ohm, carbon composition resistor

jwrich

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks, guys. I understand how it goes together. I'll order the replacement caps. The picture is a great help, better than a 1000 words.

Thanks again
Rich

If I can't get this engine to run right I'll get another one.

jwrich

My Feedback: (17)

One quick question, is the resister soldered into the spring?

Thanks
Rich

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Nope. And doing so might take the temper out of the spring.

AV8TOR

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Man, I typed up a long post, "hunt and peck" style on this little tiny Kindle, and then lost the dam thing before I managed to get it posted. I'll try again later on the main compu' if I get a chance. I do what I can lying down with this Kindle due to really bad back problems. (Surgery happening again end of June.)

AV8TOR

jwrich

My Feedback: (17)

I ordered a new replacement cap from Mile High hobbies, It should be here some time this week, I'll keep you informed.

Thanks for all your help
Rich