DLE-111 tuning issue
#1
DLE-111 tuning issue
Folks,
I have a DLE-111 fitted to a H9 1/3 Pawnee. Starts quite easily but is quite lumpy and rough around idle.
If I slam thr throttle it transtions quite nicely and will come back to idle ok though sometimes will have a fast idle which tells me the low needle is a tad lean.
If though I accelerate slowly as you would do on a takeoff run it bogs right down and farts about till it gets a bit over half throttle then it seems to clear itself and comes on song which causes the Pawnee to leap into the air.
Flying around full throttle is fine, will fly happily around at half with a the occassional burble, below that it gets lumpy.
I did tune it the previous weekend and it seemed to be fine.
I read on another forum that the guys are swapping out the DLE carby and fitting the DA WJ-71 carb which makes a big difference from what I have read.
Also I am getting a lot of black oil residue, could be the oil I am using. Castrol 2T mineral to bed the engine in.
Would appreciate some considered advice. I'm not that great at trying to tune these things.
thanks in advance
cheers
P
I have a DLE-111 fitted to a H9 1/3 Pawnee. Starts quite easily but is quite lumpy and rough around idle.
If I slam thr throttle it transtions quite nicely and will come back to idle ok though sometimes will have a fast idle which tells me the low needle is a tad lean.
If though I accelerate slowly as you would do on a takeoff run it bogs right down and farts about till it gets a bit over half throttle then it seems to clear itself and comes on song which causes the Pawnee to leap into the air.
Flying around full throttle is fine, will fly happily around at half with a the occassional burble, below that it gets lumpy.
I did tune it the previous weekend and it seemed to be fine.
I read on another forum that the guys are swapping out the DLE carby and fitting the DA WJ-71 carb which makes a big difference from what I have read.
Also I am getting a lot of black oil residue, could be the oil I am using. Castrol 2T mineral to bed the engine in.
Would appreciate some considered advice. I'm not that great at trying to tune these things.
thanks in advance
cheers
P
Last edited by planenutzz; 08-26-2019 at 06:19 PM.
#2
I have a DLE-111 fitted to a H9 33% Pawnee. Mejink 24/12 3 blade prop.
98 octane with 32:1 Castrol Racing TTS synthetic oil.
engine has little running time, I have only flown the model 4 times plus say a tank full on the ground trying to tune. Previous owner said he had about 6 flights.
Engine is very rough from idle to just over half throttle then it clears its throat and the model leaps into the air, before I'm ready for it do so!
It has a strange cyclic sound just over idel as I am taxiing. Yes I have tried tuning it a few times and have thought I had it sorted without success.
It throws a lot of black thick oil residue.
Couple of videos, note the sound as I taxi past, not the where I am running the throttle up and down to clear its throat.
thanks in advance.
cheers
Peter
98 octane with 32:1 Castrol Racing TTS synthetic oil.
engine has little running time, I have only flown the model 4 times plus say a tank full on the ground trying to tune. Previous owner said he had about 6 flights.
Engine is very rough from idle to just over half throttle then it clears its throat and the model leaps into the air, before I'm ready for it do so!
It has a strange cyclic sound just over idel as I am taxiing. Yes I have tried tuning it a few times and have thought I had it sorted without success.
It throws a lot of black thick oil residue.
Couple of videos, note the sound as I taxi past, not the where I am running the throttle up and down to clear its throat.
thanks in advance.
cheers
Peter
#3
My Feedback: (19)
From your description I’d say you’re probably too rich on the low end and maybe a bit lean at full throttle. Try leaning the L needle until the engine will no longer transition to full throttle. Then richen it a tiny bit at a time until the engine will go to full throttle smoothly. Richen the H needle as required or until the engine will drop back to a normal idle as soon as you chop the throttle. If the engine idles fast then settles down after a bit when you chop the throttle, that is a sign of being lean at full throttle.
#5
plugs are NGK CM-6.The engine appears to be a Version 2.
I reset the needles to factory settings.
L 1-1/4
H 1-1/2
Interestingly the L needle was at 2-1/2, high was about spot on just over 1-1/2
I haven't run it again yet but will do so next Saturday.
I reset the needles to factory settings.
L 1-1/4
H 1-1/2
Interestingly the L needle was at 2-1/2, high was about spot on just over 1-1/2
I haven't run it again yet but will do so next Saturday.
#7
I'm well aware of that. I'll be attacking low needle to get low to mid range transtion sorted then will adjust top end of may RPM and also checkijng the at it does not hold high idle when I cut throttle right back.
all a process and I'm learning as I go.
all a process and I'm learning as I go.
#8
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: sydney, AUSTRALIA
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I found this a very good video. It may help. Also this, i have not tried this method but it does make sence.
"I shut my gas engines off when I turn the needles. Also if you flip that prop like your scared of it, it will bite you. It need a confident flip not to back fire. As to the article on tuning, thats not how I do it is all.
This is mine. Been flying gas for 29 years. Both needles out 2 turns, start it up and rev it to clear the fuel. If the high end is rich lean 1/8-1/4 turn and try again till the high side at least sounds better as its not importat till the low is set. Then let it idle and pinch the fuel line. If the rpms go up then the low is rich and and the needle needs to go in. If it just dies then its lean. It should just barley raise if anything then try to die. Once that is set, I tackel the high side. I lean it 1/8 turn and check with a tac till the rpms stop increasing. Then back it off 50-100 rpm. The low needle will effect the high the high does not effect the low. At this point I try extended idle and see what transition sounds like. If it hesitates then revs the low needs to go in some, if it just dies the it comes out some still. All my needle truns are done with the engine OFF.
As for your prop the rpms will tell you if its sized right. you should be around 6000-6500 rpm at WOT. If you low I'd drop that pitch to a 10. Only reason for a 12 pitch is speed and this plane is not a speed deamon.
If the thing wont tune right then pull the covers and check the screen."
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDaO...cf_mWeYQosvRfY
"I shut my gas engines off when I turn the needles. Also if you flip that prop like your scared of it, it will bite you. It need a confident flip not to back fire. As to the article on tuning, thats not how I do it is all.
This is mine. Been flying gas for 29 years. Both needles out 2 turns, start it up and rev it to clear the fuel. If the high end is rich lean 1/8-1/4 turn and try again till the high side at least sounds better as its not importat till the low is set. Then let it idle and pinch the fuel line. If the rpms go up then the low is rich and and the needle needs to go in. If it just dies then its lean. It should just barley raise if anything then try to die. Once that is set, I tackel the high side. I lean it 1/8 turn and check with a tac till the rpms stop increasing. Then back it off 50-100 rpm. The low needle will effect the high the high does not effect the low. At this point I try extended idle and see what transition sounds like. If it hesitates then revs the low needs to go in some, if it just dies the it comes out some still. All my needle truns are done with the engine OFF.
As for your prop the rpms will tell you if its sized right. you should be around 6000-6500 rpm at WOT. If you low I'd drop that pitch to a 10. Only reason for a 12 pitch is speed and this plane is not a speed deamon.
If the thing wont tune right then pull the covers and check the screen."
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDaO...cf_mWeYQosvRfY