Tartan Twin info
12-30-2011, 04:51 AM
#26
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RE: Tartan Twin info
ORIGINAL: rcacro
If anyone is interested in purchasing a Tartan Twin, I have one with the Ousley Modifications and reed unit for sale at a low price. Also have the Miller reduction starter. If interested PM me.
John
If anyone is interested in purchasing a Tartan Twin, I have one with the Ousley Modifications and reed unit for sale at a low price. Also have the Miller reduction starter. If interested PM me.
John
Did you ever have any success with your Ousley modified Tartan? I had him modify one of my Tartans, but could never get it to run, ended up selling it.
One of my club members had one years ago that ran like a scolded dog...man did it sound nice.
01-02-2012, 07:56 PM
#27
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RE: Tartan Twin info
Yes, mine ran very well. The only problem I had was the tendency for one cylinder to quite firing on idle. Idle mixture was set to rich.Leaning the low end finallysolved it.
Burned a lot of fuel when running wide open but as they say if you want to make power you must burn fuel!
John
Burned a lot of fuel when running wide open but as they say if you want to make power you must burn fuel!
John
ORIGINAL: marvmattporsche
Did you ever have any success with your Ousley modified Tartan? I had him modify one of my Tartans, but could never get it to run, ended up selling it.
One of my club members had one years ago that ran like a scolded dog...man did it sound nice.
Did you ever have any success with your Ousley modified Tartan? I had him modify one of my Tartans, but could never get it to run, ended up selling it.
One of my club members had one years ago that ran like a scolded dog...man did it sound nice.
11-05-2013, 10:11 PM
#29
Have been running my Tartan Twin on the bench and found that the Delorto carb seems fairly touchy about fuel line head. Raise the tank just a hair and it runs rich, drop it and it leans. Is this normal or is there something wrong? Have heard the Walbro carbs are a much better choice.
11-07-2013, 03:30 PM
#32
11-08-2013, 11:06 PM
#33
Senior Member
Still going flying when ever I can.
Grumpy no two. BCCHI
12-10-2013, 05:42 AM
#34
Getting this Tartan Twin running has been a struggle but now it is turning into a love affair. It is indeed a beautiful engine. The original Delorto carb diaghrams were all shot and a local small engine shop sold me a Walbro clone that they guaranteed. I can see why as it really works well. I first ran the engine with the ignition timing fixed as the new carb did not have a place to attach the mechanical ignition advance linkage to. With the fixed timing, the engine shook like crazy at idle. Yesterday I modified the carb to be able to have ignition advance and with the timing going from retarded past TDC (idle) to advanced (full throttle), it has smoothed out a lot. Very very smooth at mid to high RPM.
Another thing I have had to learn is to leave the carb wet. I was running it dry after each run and it seems to take a lot of time to prime after that and start working right. Leaving gas in it, I can start in about 3-4 flips. Is this common practice with gassers to leave the carb full of fuel?
Another thing I have had to learn is to leave the carb wet. I was running it dry after each run and it seems to take a lot of time to prime after that and start working right. Leaving gas in it, I can start in about 3-4 flips. Is this common practice with gassers to leave the carb full of fuel?
12-10-2013, 09:12 AM
#35
I leave gas in my engine carbs, but I use Puregas that is sold as a recreational fuel. Go too puregas.com. too find a place too buy it. I have found no better fuel. Great fuel to use & is a good storage fuel. http://pure-gas.org/ Capt,n
12-11-2013, 02:59 AM
#36
[QUOTE=thailazer;11681496] The original Delorto carb diaghrams were all shot and a local small engine shop sold me a Walbro clone that they guaranteed. I can see why as it really works well. I first ran the engine with the ignition timing fixed as the new carb did not have a place to attach the mechanical ignition advance linkage to. ]
What carb number are you using? Maybe others can benefit?
What carb number are you using? Maybe others can benefit?
12-11-2013, 03:10 AM
#37
[QUOTE=Tony Hallo;11682292]
Well, it is a carb made here in Thailand and it looks exactly like a Walbro. It cost me about 25 dollars US. They use these carbs in the weed wackers that are used by the thousands here to cut back the jungle and to cut crops. They have to be reliable as the hill tribe farmers have to be able to use them. As long as I leave fuel in the carb, I can get the Tartan to start on the 3rd or 4th flip every time after cold choking 5 rotations. Hot, it starts right away. Maybe I should look into exporting the things as they are quite high quality and performance from my experience so far.
The original Delorto carb diaghrams were all shot and a local small engine shop sold me a Walbro clone that they guaranteed. I can see why as it really works well. I first ran the engine with the ignition timing fixed as the new carb did not have a place to attach the mechanical ignition advance linkage to. ]
What carb number are you using? Maybe others can benefit?
What carb number are you using? Maybe others can benefit?
12-11-2013, 10:04 AM
#38
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Good grief the world is a small place. That's a CH conversion from Wyoming USA.
The mechanical timing can be adjust to perfection with a little thought. It was called TCSA, Throttle Coupled Spark Advance
Anyway idle timing should be in the 3-5 degrees BDTC range and WOT it should be in the 28-30 deg BDTC range. You can adjust the static timing by making the pushrod longer or shorter. OR by loosening the front ring with the magnet and twisting it.
The TOTAL timing movement depends on the length of the arm on the carb. So by making the arm longer you increase the range of timing (example 2-32 d BDTC) shorter and decrease the range (5-28 d BTDC).
You can also adjust the timing to have a curve by changing the angle between the throttle butterfly and the pivot arm, There be less movement of timing as the arm and push rod become closer in alignment.
Good luck
TKG
The mechanical timing can be adjust to perfection with a little thought. It was called TCSA, Throttle Coupled Spark Advance
Anyway idle timing should be in the 3-5 degrees BDTC range and WOT it should be in the 28-30 deg BDTC range. You can adjust the static timing by making the pushrod longer or shorter. OR by loosening the front ring with the magnet and twisting it.
The TOTAL timing movement depends on the length of the arm on the carb. So by making the arm longer you increase the range of timing (example 2-32 d BDTC) shorter and decrease the range (5-28 d BTDC).
You can also adjust the timing to have a curve by changing the angle between the throttle butterfly and the pivot arm, There be less movement of timing as the arm and push rod become closer in alignment.
Good luck
TKG
Last edited by tkg; 12-11-2013 at 10:06 AM.
12-11-2013, 03:30 PM
#39
Good grief the world is a small place. That's a CH conversion from Wyoming USA.
The mechanical timing can be adjust to perfection with a little thought. It was called TCSA, Throttle Coupled Spark Advance
Anyway idle timing should be in the 3-5 degrees BDTC range and WOT it should be in the 28-30 deg BDTC range. You can adjust the static timing by making the pushrod longer or shorter. OR by loosening the front ring with the magnet and twisting it.
The TOTAL timing movement depends on the length of the arm on the carb. So by making the arm longer you increase the range of timing (example 2-32 d BDTC) shorter and decrease the range (5-28 d BTDC).
You can also adjust the timing to have a curve by changing the angle between the throttle butterfly and the pivot arm, There be less movement of timing as the arm and push rod become closer in alignment.
Good luck
TKG
The mechanical timing can be adjust to perfection with a little thought. It was called TCSA, Throttle Coupled Spark Advance
Anyway idle timing should be in the 3-5 degrees BDTC range and WOT it should be in the 28-30 deg BDTC range. You can adjust the static timing by making the pushrod longer or shorter. OR by loosening the front ring with the magnet and twisting it.
The TOTAL timing movement depends on the length of the arm on the carb. So by making the arm longer you increase the range of timing (example 2-32 d BDTC) shorter and decrease the range (5-28 d BTDC).
You can also adjust the timing to have a curve by changing the angle between the throttle butterfly and the pivot arm, There be less movement of timing as the arm and push rod become closer in alignment.
Good luck
TKG
12-12-2013, 10:28 AM
#41
Look for big Glow engines at swap meets. They go for real low prices. Some meets are swamped with engines. Price of them lower all the time. Have fun browsing!!!!!!!!!!!
09-03-2014, 05:20 PM
#46
They do look good, and much better than the usual engines you see for sale these days. The modern engines put out more power but I doubt they have the durability of the Italian made Tartan.
09-04-2014, 02:39 AM
#48
[QUOTE=thailazer;11682298]
Looks like these are available on ebay for half the price I paid here.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-C...18009178&rt=nc
Well, it is a carb made here in Thailand and it looks exactly like a Walbro. It cost me about 25 dollars US. They use these carbs in the weed wackers that are used by the thousands here to cut back the jungle and to cut crops. They have to be reliable as the hill tribe farmers have to be able to use them. As long as I leave fuel in the carb, I can get the Tartan to start on the 3rd or 4th flip every time after cold choking 5 rotations. Hot, it starts right away. Maybe I should look into exporting the things as they are quite high quality and performance from my experience so far.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-C...18009178&rt=nc
11-02-2023, 01:39 PM
#50
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Does anyone happen to have an old Tartan contest lying around? I currently have one like new and would like to make a four cylinder one. Any help would be b greatly appreciated. Thx Mick, Bay city, Michigan