GeraldRosebery

My Feedback: (14)

I have a relatively new Taurus 52 with maybe 1 gallon through it. It runs just fine (6800 rpm on a top flite 22 x 6-10) and idles beautifully. However, hot or cold it's a pig to start. I use a big starter and it turns the engine over easily. Cold, I choke the engine, full throttle and flip it 6-8 times. Then close the throttle to a couple of clicks over idle, switch off the choke, switch on the ignition and apply the starter. 4 cell ignition battery is reading 5.4 volts. After maybe 20 seconds, it starts to spit and cough and then run for a second or two and after maybe one minute it catches. It takes about 30 seconds to one minute to warm up before it will run at full throttle. After that no problems. It has never quit after it is warmed up. It acts pretty much the same warm, but I don't bother to choke it. After flying, the bottom of the aircraft is all green from the oil. I closed the low end needle 1/4 turn with no change in behavior. Can anyone advise? Thanks.

flipflop

My opinion, you're lean on the low speed. Hard starting and long warm-up are a dead giveaway. I'd open the low 1/2 a turn and try again.

Geistware

My Feedback: (16)

You could also put the choke on a servo and leave it partically closed when you start the engine. I did this and found that it works.

GeraldRosebery

My Feedback: (14)

I will try and richen it up 1/2 turn and see if it makes any difference. As far as partially choking it is concerned; it may help the problem, but the problem should not be there. A partial choke would just make it richer anyway. There must be something not quite right and I need to find out what it is.

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

Check your carb block that hols the carb to the motor. If it's loose it wil leak air in and you will lose the vaccum to the walbro carb so the pump wont work well. Once it warms up the carb block exspands due to the heat of the motor, helping seal off the leak.[:-]
This could be your problem due to the motor being new the fasteners tend to loosen up after a short time of running, also check your plug for fouling, if it's fouled it will run rough for a short time until the clyinder tep reaches the upper limit where the mixture ingnites easier. Just check out the mechanical conditions first before changing any of the mixtures.

Yakdude

My Feedback: (2)

Hello,

On my T-52 I found the bolts that hold the carb on were to long. They bottomed out in the cylinder before the carb was tight. If you remove the carb and the gasket looks damp you know that the carb is not sealing. I had exactly the same symptoms before I exchanged the bolts for slightly shorter ones.

Lawrence

NavyE6FE

"Cold, I choke the engine, full throttle and flip it 6-8 times. Then close the throttle to a couple of clicks over idle, switch off the choke, switch on the ignition and apply the starter."

Gerald,
Have you tried to start it with the choke closed and the ignition ON??? On my gas engines I close the choke, flip until I get gas out the carb, leave the choke closed/Ignition on and flip. After a couple of flips the engine usually tries to run and dies. Then I open the choke and flip and within a couple of flips the engine is running.

mglavin

My Feedback: (31)

Gerald

Just an educated guess, BUT I believe your starting procedure is the problem.

Why are you using an electric starter??? This engine was designed to be started with a few flips by hand. There is NO advantage to opening the throttle while choking, NONE.

Starting procedure should go like this;

Ignition OFF, activate choke, throttle at idle.
Ignition ON, flip a few times until engine pops, sputters and dies.
Ignition OFF, choke OFF.
Ignition on, throttle at idle, flip until the engine fires.

Most gassers will hesitate transitioning when properly tuned. Sounds like yours is very close, if not slightly lean. Slightly means maybe a 1/10th of a turn CCW, and see what happens. BUT like I said the hesitation is a normal characteristic when associated with a properly tuned COLD engine, which exhibits good transition once warmed...

Have you moved the needles from factory settings?

How is your tank plumbed, two line or three line? Fuel filter?

Whats your oil and mix ratio?

Have you looked at the plug?

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Michael, I would disagree that these engines are designed to start with a few flips. Most of these engines are industrial engines converted to use in planes. Those engines are not hand started but employ a pull rope starter (in most cases). This isnt to say that most engines can't be hand started because most can. Still using a starter is a completely proper alternative. A cold engine likes to be wet for starting. Choke until fuel is obvious then open the choke, add a few clicks of throttle and start. If its very cold you may need to partial choke, start and release the choke. When warm its not usually necessary to choke but warm applies to the engine and not the ambient temp. Transition and midrange can sometimes be a problem for smooth operation because most industrial engines are run at or near full throttle. So this sometimes translates into our Plane use, but not always. Depends on how much extra work has been done with regard to timing, porting etc.
Regards BobH.

Geistware

My Feedback: (16)

I have to agree with teh had start procedure. While the engines may be converted weed wacker engines, all of my gas engines start within 5 flips if properly choked.

mglavin

My Feedback: (31)

Bob the Taurus Engine line, like most Aero model gas engines are designed to be hand flipped or started... Yes many of these engines evolve from industrial engines such as chainsaws and weedwackers. BUT there is a grand difference in the use and therefore the starting procedure. The predominate difference is the electronic auto ignition system. This allows the engine to start at 4 degrees or so timing as compared to the more common industrial setup which yields a magneto of some sort or maybe a CDI and use somewhere around 28 degrees timing... BIG difference in needs here... Thus the pull start and or electric starter.

Any way I haven't met a gas engine, when properly setup and working that could no be hand started with an electronic ignition system....

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

Most magneto style ignitions need the flywheel to pass the pick-up at something like 400-600 rpm. That is why they have spring starts (or pull starters) on them. Some guys have learned the secret to getting the prop set just right, and flipping one to get that kind of RPM, but not me.
Love them electronic ignitions.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Michael I don't disagree that these engines can be hand started. I think I said that.. What is troubeling to me is your question of "why are you using a starter".. I hope you didn't mean to imply that starters shouldn't be used? I'm sure thats not the case but just my reading of it. Thanks BobH.

GeraldRosebery

My Feedback: (14)

Whatever the cause of the current hard start problem, I use a starter for the simple reason that I agreed with my wife to do so after I almost lost a finger to a flipped engine. No, I don't want advice on how to flip safely, thank you. The fact that the engine does run perfectly after warm up indicates to me that, since the carb is lugged down very tightly and has been sealed with gasket sealant on all gaskets it must be a mixture problem not an ignition or fuel supply issue. Next weekend I shall try the richer mixture scenario first.