Gasoline engine starters.
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Re: Starters...
[QUOTE]Originally posted by les2097
Hi,
I'm wondering if you can get the Sullivan Model 4 starter with the Miller belt drive unit???
Does anyone have any advice about the Sullivan Dynatron starter motor ... versus ... the Sullivan Model 4 motor???
We generally use engines like the ZDZ 80, Brison 4.2, 3W78 ...
Thanks
Larry [/QUOTE}
My Miller unit is mounted on a standard Sullivan starter( the low cost one) The gear reduction of the Miller unit reduces the torque requirement so that I can use 24V on the Sullivan unit that is rated for only 12V. I did this on the advise of Miller. My unit turns my ZDZ 80 with plenty of power to spare. I have not tried a 100 cc engine but I am sure it will start it. I have been using this unit for more than two years.
A gas engine normally is easily hand started. Sometimes they can get stubborn (especially the rear carb ZDZ's) and it is handy to have the persuader around
Hi,
I'm wondering if you can get the Sullivan Model 4 starter with the Miller belt drive unit???
Does anyone have any advice about the Sullivan Dynatron starter motor ... versus ... the Sullivan Model 4 motor???
We generally use engines like the ZDZ 80, Brison 4.2, 3W78 ...
Thanks
Larry [/QUOTE}
My Miller unit is mounted on a standard Sullivan starter( the low cost one) The gear reduction of the Miller unit reduces the torque requirement so that I can use 24V on the Sullivan unit that is rated for only 12V. I did this on the advise of Miller. My unit turns my ZDZ 80 with plenty of power to spare. I have not tried a 100 cc engine but I am sure it will start it. I have been using this unit for more than two years.
A gas engine normally is easily hand started. Sometimes they can get stubborn (especially the rear carb ZDZ's) and it is handy to have the persuader around
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Gasoline engine starters.
augiep38
You didn't miss a thing, it's a personal preference thing. Here's some reasons I can think of.
As dirtybird pointed out, having a 'persuader' around when compression builds up is a nice thing. That's point number one.
A second point is some folks like all four fingers and their thumb intact. Not to be mean, but some of us get a bit slower as we age and getting our 'paws' out of the way after a flip is getting harder and harder. (I fit in this category )
Third point (and this one is my own preference), I would rather use a starter with any engine because any slip (no matter how small) could equal a lost finger, deep cut, etc. I just don't want to deal with it. Even if using a starter stick.
Yes, the whole idea behind having a electronic ignition on your gasser is to make it easy starting, it's a personal preference if you want to flip it by hand or use a stick, or starter. Just a safety thing. Or something to make yourself feel safer.
I watch these guys at meets give these 150cc engines a flip with no glove, just bare hands and then fly. Yea, the engine is well broke in and it'll usually start on the first flip after it's all warmed up and running for awhile. It scares the hell out of me, one little mistake or slip...... :disappoin
Just my opinions.....
Maybe I am missing something, but why do you need a starter for a gas engine? I thought one of the advantages of going gas was less support equipment.
You didn't miss a thing, it's a personal preference thing. Here's some reasons I can think of.
As dirtybird pointed out, having a 'persuader' around when compression builds up is a nice thing. That's point number one.
A second point is some folks like all four fingers and their thumb intact. Not to be mean, but some of us get a bit slower as we age and getting our 'paws' out of the way after a flip is getting harder and harder. (I fit in this category )
Third point (and this one is my own preference), I would rather use a starter with any engine because any slip (no matter how small) could equal a lost finger, deep cut, etc. I just don't want to deal with it. Even if using a starter stick.
Yes, the whole idea behind having a electronic ignition on your gasser is to make it easy starting, it's a personal preference if you want to flip it by hand or use a stick, or starter. Just a safety thing. Or something to make yourself feel safer.
I watch these guys at meets give these 150cc engines a flip with no glove, just bare hands and then fly. Yea, the engine is well broke in and it'll usually start on the first flip after it's all warmed up and running for awhile. It scares the hell out of me, one little mistake or slip...... :disappoin
Just my opinions.....
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Gasoline engine starters.
I agree. At 61 years of age the ole reflexes are not what they used to be. Anyway, I got the Miller belt drive systwm mounted on a Sullivan Dynatron starter. I should be able to start anything I have with this setup. Biggest engine is a G-62.....
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age
Originally posted by omawho
I agree. At 61 years of age the ole reflexes are not what they used to be. Anyway, I got the Miller belt drive systwm mounted on a Sullivan Dynatron starter. I should be able to start anything I have with this setup. Biggest engine is a G-62.....
I agree. At 61 years of age the ole reflexes are not what they used to be. Anyway, I got the Miller belt drive systwm mounted on a Sullivan Dynatron starter. I should be able to start anything I have with this setup. Biggest engine is a G-62.....
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SPRING STARTERS?
Cost of spring starters for G62 and G45's etc... +-$50 weight 1/2 pound, loose the spring starter, loose weight, cost of sullivan dyna starter +-$100. Right or wrong, help me out. I should go with a Dynatron??
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Gasoline engine starters.
OK, Just my view on the matter. The Dynatron with the Miller setup will start anything except the very largest negines. Then, if you go to 24 volts you have a good shot at even starting them. In other words, one starter for all engines. Seems like a great deal to me. Again, just my take on the matter. Dirtybird, your right about the air here. I love Omaha. Originally from Pittsburgh and don't even think of returning there. This really is the good life except for the tax rate. OUCH!!!!!!!
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Gasoline engine starters.
RORO
Yup, as I pointed out a Dynatron starter (by Sullivan) with a Miller Reduction Unit on it should start just about anything up to 150cc. And as omawho pointed out at 24V you should be able to start 200cc and above. This combination makes a very powerful starter. I would have to venture a guess here and say it's got more guts than the Megatron. One thing for sure is, it's a lot less clumsy than the Megatron.
Also as I pointed out the Dynatron by itself will start engines up to 2.4 CI and many 3.5 CI engines. With the Miller Reduction, you've got a powerhouse. (5.8 - 6 CI)
To answer your question, yes, go with the Dynatron.
Cost? A lot less than a lost finger or thumb.....
PS...I guess I got everyone with the age thing, too bad it's true. :cry:
Yup, as I pointed out a Dynatron starter (by Sullivan) with a Miller Reduction Unit on it should start just about anything up to 150cc. And as omawho pointed out at 24V you should be able to start 200cc and above. This combination makes a very powerful starter. I would have to venture a guess here and say it's got more guts than the Megatron. One thing for sure is, it's a lot less clumsy than the Megatron.
Also as I pointed out the Dynatron by itself will start engines up to 2.4 CI and many 3.5 CI engines. With the Miller Reduction, you've got a powerhouse. (5.8 - 6 CI)
To answer your question, yes, go with the Dynatron.
Cost? A lot less than a lost finger or thumb.....
PS...I guess I got everyone with the age thing, too bad it's true. :cry:
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Safe Hand Starting
I prefer hand starting 'cause it's less junk to haul out and maintain, and it gives me a better feel for the engine. But, I make a living with my hands, and the prospect of losing even small parts of them sickens me. My own invention (probably old news) is chicken sticks fashioned from radiator hose. A single 18" length of 1-3/4" hose is plenty stiff to flip a 30 cc engine. Three concentric layers of 1-1/4" to 2-1/2" hose do nicely for the 100-150 cc'ers. MAKE SURE YOU FASTEN THEM FIRMLY TOGETHER. The hose material is gentle on props and rugged. You can practice sort of a slingshot effect to actually get more flip velocity than by hand. Only drawback is the black smudge on your hand (or the cowls until you get good at it.)
I'm flying mostly 3W's, a coupla BME's. The former are a lot easier to hand start. Even an easy starter can be tough by hand on a twin (P-38) 'cause you can't listen to the second engine very well after the first one's going, so I use a starter for that one.
mt
I'm flying mostly 3W's, a coupla BME's. The former are a lot easier to hand start. Even an easy starter can be tough by hand on a twin (P-38) 'cause you can't listen to the second engine very well after the first one's going, so I use a starter for that one.
mt
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RE: SPRING STARTERS?
I'm a newbee with gasoline engines but I've been running large (Moki 180 and OS FX 1.60) 2-stroke glows for the past few years. Even a Sullivan Dynatron running from a 24volt power source can have difficulty turning over these engines when they are new, especially the Moki. The OS is never a problem because a quick backflip of the prop against compression is usually enough.
In anycase, my GP Christen Eagle II has a Fuji BT-50SA on the nose. I've been told this engine is sometimes difficult to start so I opted for the spring starter. Another reason for the spring starter vs the heavy-duty spin starter is the aluminum spinner provided with this airplane could not hold up to a spin starter (it usess a 2-piece A frame connected to the backplate with ribets to mound the spinner face, instead of a bolt attached to the prop shaft). You would literally rip the spinner off the nose with a dynatron or a megatron. The little extra weight from the spring starter did not cause a major concern with my application -- what's 8 ounces to an 18 1/2 pound airplane.
In anycase, my GP Christen Eagle II has a Fuji BT-50SA on the nose. I've been told this engine is sometimes difficult to start so I opted for the spring starter. Another reason for the spring starter vs the heavy-duty spin starter is the aluminum spinner provided with this airplane could not hold up to a spin starter (it usess a 2-piece A frame connected to the backplate with ribets to mound the spinner face, instead of a bolt attached to the prop shaft). You would literally rip the spinner off the nose with a dynatron or a megatron. The little extra weight from the spring starter did not cause a major concern with my application -- what's 8 ounces to an 18 1/2 pound airplane.
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RE: SPRING STARTERS?
ORIGINAL: hilleyja
The little extra weight from the spring starter did not cause a major concern with my application -- what's 8 ounces to an 18 1/2 pound airplane.
The little extra weight from the spring starter did not cause a major concern with my application -- what's 8 ounces to an 18 1/2 pound airplane.
Roger