Mvvs 1.60 Engine priming problem
06-19-2006, 07:33 PM
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Mvvs 1.60 Engine priming problem
how many flips should it take to draw fuel into the carb.
I have the tank about 1" below the carb inlet and there is 12" of 3/32" ID hose between the tank and carb.
When I flip the prop the fuel just goes back and forth in the line and doesent seem to be pumping to the carb I removed the fuel line from the carb and the fuel ran out of the line by gravity. Once the fuel was in the line I was abe to start the engine and it ran fine.
I am using a 3 line sytem with the line from the carb one pc to the tank. the fill line is straight to the tank and the vent out the bottom.
am I missing something?
any help would be great thanks
I have the tank about 1" below the carb inlet and there is 12" of 3/32" ID hose between the tank and carb.
When I flip the prop the fuel just goes back and forth in the line and doesent seem to be pumping to the carb I removed the fuel line from the carb and the fuel ran out of the line by gravity. Once the fuel was in the line I was abe to start the engine and it ran fine.
I am using a 3 line sytem with the line from the carb one pc to the tank. the fill line is straight to the tank and the vent out the bottom.
am I missing something?
any help would be great thanks
06-20-2006, 03:08 AM
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RE: Mvvs 1.60 Engine priming problem
The fuel moving in the line shows that the carb wants to pump, but that the valve petals do not close well.
Thus it will only pump when the carb is all wet.
Get the fuel into the carb by closing the choke completely. If must be, close the small hole in the choke plate with a dab of solder.
Another reason may be, that the pump cover screw is too tight. This makes the valve petals curl up slightly. The screw should be loosely tightened.
Thus it will only pump when the carb is all wet.
Get the fuel into the carb by closing the choke completely. If must be, close the small hole in the choke plate with a dab of solder.
Another reason may be, that the pump cover screw is too tight. This makes the valve petals curl up slightly. The screw should be loosely tightened.
06-20-2006, 06:46 AM
#3
RE: Mvvs 1.60 Engine priming problem
I just recieved a nice leaf blower.
As usual --it was equipped with a priming bulb. A no brainer to start and adjust.
too bad , no one in the RC field offers a small aftermarket bulb .
Stranger yet-the carbureters on the majority of small gassers come with no purpose built arms, a choke plate which is relieved to accomadate pull start setups, spring loads which are completely wrong for the RC application.
The typical retrofit arms and mods I see are --not good--
To cork it - I see very little usable info with small gassers as to how to do these mods .
The number of questions related to setting up arms and choke plates the small Walbros /Tillotoson/Bings , seems to be increasing.
Maybe the Chinese will rectify this when they take over the market.
The Czech/German/American gasser mfgrs, still adopt the attitude that the "industrious hobbiest will figure it out".
Sure----------"here Stanley -you take this hammer and when I nod my head --you hit it".
As usual --it was equipped with a priming bulb. A no brainer to start and adjust.
too bad , no one in the RC field offers a small aftermarket bulb .
Stranger yet-the carbureters on the majority of small gassers come with no purpose built arms, a choke plate which is relieved to accomadate pull start setups, spring loads which are completely wrong for the RC application.
The typical retrofit arms and mods I see are --not good--
To cork it - I see very little usable info with small gassers as to how to do these mods .
The number of questions related to setting up arms and choke plates the small Walbros /Tillotoson/Bings , seems to be increasing.
Maybe the Chinese will rectify this when they take over the market.
The Czech/German/American gasser mfgrs, still adopt the attitude that the "industrious hobbiest will figure it out".
Sure----------"here Stanley -you take this hammer and when I nod my head --you hit it".
06-20-2006, 01:19 PM
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RE: Mvvs 1.60 Engine priming problem
PS
I tried a bulb carb on my plane. The bulb was very close to the prop but it worked.
Only problem is all the lines to and from the tank. In a leaf blower, these are very short, but in our planes the tank is much farther away from the carb, so in the end I discarded the idea and replaced the carb with a normal one, and switched to Aspen fuel to get rid of the gas stench on my choke thumb.
Ideal situation, it ain't.
I tried a bulb carb on my plane. The bulb was very close to the prop but it worked.
Only problem is all the lines to and from the tank. In a leaf blower, these are very short, but in our planes the tank is much farther away from the carb, so in the end I discarded the idea and replaced the carb with a normal one, and switched to Aspen fuel to get rid of the gas stench on my choke thumb.
Ideal situation, it ain't.
06-20-2006, 01:29 PM
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RE: Mvvs 1.60 Engine priming problem
ORIGINAL: preivers
PS
I tried a bulb carb on my plane. The bulb was very close to the prop but it worked.
Only problem is all the lines to and from the tank. In a leaf blower, these are very short, but in our planes the tank is much farther away from the carb, so in the end I discarded the idea and replaced the carb with a normal one, and switched to Aspen fuel to get rid of the gas stench on my choke thumb.
Ideal situation, it ain't.
PS
I tried a bulb carb on my plane. The bulb was very close to the prop but it worked.
Only problem is all the lines to and from the tank. In a leaf blower, these are very short, but in our planes the tank is much farther away from the carb, so in the end I discarded the idea and replaced the carb with a normal one, and switched to Aspen fuel to get rid of the gas stench on my choke thumb.
Ideal situation, it ain't.
---------------
Is Aspen fuel anything like Coleman Fuel here in the US? TIA
06-20-2006, 10:17 PM
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RE: Mvvs 1.60 Engine priming problem
LOL Dick what a hoot yeah but but but these are "PURPOSE BUIL RC ENGINES" JUST FOR AIRPLANES???? the choke arm on the mvvs is a fine example I spent 2 hours rigging that up to work from a servo. and the set up is marginal at best. Unfortunateley not everyone in this sport / hobby Namely me, has the time or knowledge to figure this crap out. I mean like I need pictures nstrucktchuns.
Thanks Pe. for the help the engine runs great its just a little hard to start the first time. I bought a small syringe at the drugstore to squirt a litle fuel in the carb just enough for a short burst that seemed to pull The fuel in and the engine started with only five flips. will priming the carb this way damage the engine. the engine is mounted inverted on an ultra rc giles and the carb is right out in the air after a few flights I noticed fuel spray on the cylinder and header I am wondering what the chance of a fire on board is with the unburnt fuel on the header.
thanks again guys
Thanks Pe. for the help the engine runs great its just a little hard to start the first time. I bought a small syringe at the drugstore to squirt a litle fuel in the carb just enough for a short burst that seemed to pull The fuel in and the engine started with only five flips. will priming the carb this way damage the engine. the engine is mounted inverted on an ultra rc giles and the carb is right out in the air after a few flights I noticed fuel spray on the cylinder and header I am wondering what the chance of a fire on board is with the unburnt fuel on the header.
thanks again guys
06-22-2006, 07:37 AM
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RE: Mvvs 1.60 Engine priming problem
I do not think the carb is hard to set up. I wish I were a Myth like that. I would live forever without any reason!
See the picture.
The spray will not ignite on the header. The temperature is below 400 degrees C.
See the picture.
The spray will not ignite on the header. The temperature is below 400 degrees C.
06-22-2006, 03:42 PM
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RE: Mvvs 1.60 Engine priming problem
ORIGINAL: Artisan
Is Aspen fuel anything like Coleman Fuel here in the US? TIA
Is Aspen fuel anything like Coleman Fuel here in the US? TIA
Aspen is a highly refined part of gasoline, consisting of alkylates only. It hardly smells.
RON/MON 95/92, AKI ((R+M)/2) = 93.5 octane, which is extremely suitable for our model engines. Power is about equal to gasoline.
Because it is very pure, quality stays constant over time, and motors have less contamination.
Downside: combustion range is smaller than with gasoline, so needle settings are more critical. It is easy to flood the engine with choking.
