Flyboy1958

My Feedback: (1)

I had a heck of a time trying to figure out a good throttle hook up on this G26, so I had the bright idea of using a velocity stack and not using the choke. I figured I would just put my finger over the intake to prime it. Ok, so now the light bulb went on and I took the choke out and put a nose wheel steering arm on the post of the butterfly and it works perfect. The thing is now, since I took the choke out, (butterfly, screw, post, ball bearing, and spring) now I am wondering about the hole in the top and bottom of the intake that the post went through. Did I do something stupid, or since the holes are on the intake side do you think it won't matter and won't affect the performance?

Dr1Driver

Won't bother it at all.

Dr.1

roknHS

You might want to think this one over again........I did the same thing on a G-26.....Took out the choke so I could put on a velocity stack......all was well and good until I tried to cover the velocity stack with my finger and rotate the prop to choke the engine for start........guess what.....it won't work because the engine sucks air through the holes in the intake where the choke shaft was.........so you take the velocity stack off....put the shaft, ball, spring and every thing except the choke butterfly back in the intake....put the velocity stack back on and you are good to go.

Flyboy1958

My Feedback: (1)

Now that's a good point! Glad you pointed that out, I didn't even think of that. My nose wheel steering arm works so good too. Well, now I guess I have to think up a good way to plug those holes. I wonder if I can find like a rubber plug with a head on it so I can plug the holes and not worry about it getting sucked in. I'll tell ya, it's always something, then again, that's what makes this a fun hobby.

ljones5000

My Feedback: (2)

You need some air to keep from just flooding the engine. I made chokes to plug the v stack on my Brillelli 25GT out of wine stoppers from Bed, Bath, and Beyond. They work real good.



Larry

Dr1Driver

Gas engines typically like to start "wet". Most start easily if you choke them until gas is dripping out of the carb throat.

Dr.1

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

I always remove the choke plate & rod, and use a finger over the velocity stack to choke. That being said you need to fill the holes left by the choke rod otherwise they will let air in making choking diffucult. The attached pictures show how I fill the rod holes with JB weld, works great, has not failed yet.

karolh

Just use some hi temp silicone to seal the offending holes.

Karol

wayneparrish

My Feedback: (16)

Why not just use the chokes ??????? Wayne

roknHS

Because when you attach the velocity stack with the choke in the intake, the flange on the velocity stack blocks the choke butterfly from opening, its stuck closed. Yeah, I know, why doesn't somebody make a velocity stack that has a mounting flange that will allow the choke to work........go figure.......in the mean time we have to come up with all kinds of red neck ways to get the job done.......I put the shaft back in without the choke butterfly, somebody else just plugs the holes with JB weld (that would work), somebody else uses Hi-Temp silicone to plug the holes (that would work)........we are all innovators....thats why I like to be involved here........I learn a lot

jbarnes

Hate to sound stupid but I'm bulding my first gasser. A giant Telemaster with a Fuji 43cc. Whats a velocity stack? What purpose does it have? Thanks, Jerry.

karolh

A Velocity stack in essence is a fairly short straight or trumpet shaped pipe with a base flange and made of either metal or plastic that is bolted directly to the carb that is used in most instances to reduce carb fuel spitting or to improve air flow to the carb.

Remember no question is considered stupid here, but it's really silly not to ask if you don't know.

Karol

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Throttle linkage with Zenoah carb block, short velocity stack.

karolh

Antique that's a good one, for as they say a picture is worth a thousand words.

Karol

jbarnes

Gotcha, ok, I see what you are talking about now. Appreciate the explanation.

Flyboy1958

My Feedback: (1)

Antique, great picture. My question to you is, did you rotate your carb or is that how it came? Mine has the adjustment screws facing forward with the silver plate that has the spring on it for the throttle facing down. If mine was facing the direction yours is, the bell crank idea looks like it would be the way to go.

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

That is the way it came out of the box. The carb block is the Zenoah standard block. All of mine and my flying buddies are the same. That new rotater block they (Horizen ?) came out with is a piece of junk, very prone to leaking. If you ever get one of their new rotator blocks to work don't mess with it. It's a crap shoot wheather you can ever get it sealed again. That being said I've also had excellent luck using one of Ralph Cunningham's (RCIGN1) rotator blocks. Makes a nice straight shot linkage to the servo, works great. I've made a couple of G10 blocks, not hard to do and they work well but it's not very cost effective if your only doing one or two. If you want a straight shot rotator block try to buy one from Ralph. If you want I can post a pict of a rotated carb set-up.

Flyboy1958

My Feedback: (1)

Please do if you don't mind. I think like pictures. Thanks.

1911fan

My Feedback: (1)

Hello all,
I have used two G-26 engines from Bob Bennett and I was able to install two velocity stacks on both without any problems. I simply mounted the velocity stacks in place with the two screws that hold the carb on. I left the choke in the open position and use my finger to prime the engine. I can't figure out why some are saying the velocity stack prevents the butterfly from opening.

Larry

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Carb rotator block. Provides a direct, straight connection to the servo. Made from G10 by RCIGN1, works very well.

Flyboy1958

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the pictures. When I got my engine, the carb. was actually on backwards. I couldn't rotate my choke so I took the carb off to turn it around and also discovered the gasket was on backwards as well, blocking the passage way for the small hole to let air through the rotator block to the carb. Must have been a new person that put the thing together!

Chevelle

My Feedback: (2)

Here is another suggestion....

When I was building my 1/4 scale Pup, I didn't want another hole in the cowl for the choke linkage so I left the choke off. You know those red caps that come stuck in a gallon of glow fuel? I cut a hole in the cap so it fit nice and snug over the velocity stack (straight or tapered). Then I glued on a disk from some scrap aliminum flashing to cover the wider other end. I put a hole in the disk the same size as the hole in the choke plate. Viola, a removable choke cap. I just put the cap on, attempt to start the plane as usual, when it blips and dies I remove the cap and it starts right up. No risk to life or limb.

oneill brothers tech

what some of my frinds do, is put 2 rivits in the holes they usually press right in. OR you can fill in the holes with JB Weld or some sort of epoxy. that works aswell.