mm

of course yes, with my patty. I live in medoc, near bordeaux. I will post some photos when my plane will be finished.

bye

stephane

bugleboy

My Feedback: (8)

Cannot wait to see it Stephane.

TOFAST4U2C

My Feedback: (2)

OK
Half a gallon of fuel through it on the bench so back in the bird she goes. 1850 rpm at idle and 6760 wide open with 21x8. I am happy with just about everything about the 46 on the bench Scott. Starts on 4th or 5th flip cold and 2nd or 3rd warm. Spark plug electrode and porcelain is light gray and the barrel is black like my muffler tubes. All transitions are great other then when I have her spinning at approx. 4000 rpm then snap to wide open it she goes lean then revs. If I go slowly no problem. Any adjustment I make just changes something else. I assume midrange might be different in the air?

STG

My Feedback: (26)

I got a first ground run on plane with B46.

Motor is very smooth on the 74" Yak. It seems better than my 68" yak was with YS110 for smoothness

It turned the Xoar 20x8 @ 7,300 with 20 pounds of measured thust (with calibrated fishing scale tied to back end)
NX 21x8 @6,700 with 20 pounds of measured thrust--Identical to 20x8

Plane is 12 pound 2oz

Here is a vid:
http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video....372acafe55843f

Todd D

My Feedback: (51)

Who makes your 21X8 prop?

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

I have a TBM 21x8 prop on my 46GT and it has just got 4 gallons of fuel run thru it. My 46GT is spinning the TBM 21x8 prop at 7000RPM now and is flying my Bling 50 like it is a Big foamy. Brillelli makes the best engines.

ecrt123

My Feedback: (12)

I just bought this plane and a Brillelli 46, can someone give me tips on how to mount the engine. I started cutting out the cowl but it seems that the choke lever is too long. Is there a trick to mounting this engine in this plane?

Thanks

Ray

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Ray,

If you have the mounts that are made for the 46GT by Brillelli you will install the mounts to the firewall than mount the 46GT to the mounts. I cut a slot in my cowl on my Bling 50 for the choke lever to fit thru. It is a extra cut in the cowl, but it works great and does not look to bad.

Bosco2

My Feedback: (42)

Well it looks like I have joined the Brillelli 46 family,
I place my order in last week and I hope to receive the engine late next week befor Scott leaves to Toledo he says he is swamp with order's at this time but he will get mine off befor his trip,

I will blame all of you guy's for the ordering of this engine since you all have nothing but good things to say about Scott and his product so needless to say that Im all excited to place this engine in my new Airwind Speedster from Kangke.

After reeding all the threds that has been posted about this engine I feel that I know every thing I need to know in mouting and tuning so in other words I have all of you to say thank you for all the info that has been posted and best of all the season is just starting.

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

Not that this needs to be said again.... but...

A friend of mine recently bought a Brillelli 46 and I've had a few chances to fly it and this engine is really sweet. Smooth, powerful, user friendly, incredible throttle response, awesome.

Did I mention throttle response and power?

I want one.

UH-60driver

Ok Brillelli experts I need some help. I received my Brillelli 46 about a month ago and mounted it on the Great Plains Pitts from Tower. I took it to the filed yesterday for my first flight. I am new to gas so this was my first time with this type of engine. I choked the engine, flipped it a few times until it popped, the opened the choke and it it started on the next flip. The engine ran great. At full speed I thought it was a little on the rich side, but still smooth so I decided to take it up. I flew the plane for about 5 or 10 min, then landed. About an hour later I decided it was time to take it up again. Again, two flips and it started right up. It ran great at idle, and full open, however at half throttle it seemed to rev up and down a little, not staying at a constant rpm. I flew it anyway for about 5 min to see how it acted in the air. It did not seem to have any problems flying. After landing, I taxied over and shut it off. I was going to find someone to hold the plane for me so I could start it back up and watch the throttle linkage at half throttle to see if it was moving (maybe a bad servo, etc) Well, this is where my problem lies. I cannot get this engine to start back up. I have tried everything. It seems to have good compression, and the spark plug is sparking, but nothing. At most I get a small pop when full choke is on, but thats it. I have changed the batteries on the ignition, new gas, everything. I am no expert, but I feel as if the spark is not hot enough and maybe I have a problem with the Roy Sholl Ignition module. It sparks every time turned over, but it looks very weak to me. I have also changed spark plugs, and no luck with that. I have a fuel filter in line to the engine, so I can imagine something is clogging the carb already. Does this sound like a fuel or spark problem? Any help would be much appreciated!!!

ecrt123

My Feedback: (12)

Sounds like a fuel flow problem. Do this to make sure. Pull the spark plug out and squirt some fuel in the cylinder, put the plug back in and start it without using the choke. If it starts (only for a second or two) then you know that it is not the spark. It is a carb to fuel flow problem.

Todd D

My Feedback: (51)

How about something clogging the in-line fuel filter? Seems like a fuel problem to me too.
Just FYI the spark you see when the plug is outside the cylinder pales in comparison to the one that jumps the gap under compression inside. The electronic igntion will produce the amount of spark needed to jump the gap. Try the fuel directly in the cylinder method, or if you dont want to pull the plug just dribble some down the throat of the carb. Keep us informed of what you find.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

A gas engine really needs the high needle set by a tach... It's also possible you need to richen the low end needle... leaning the high end can make the low end too lean and very hard to start.

Of course there are always a variety of potential issues... ignition, plumbing, filters, etc... but truthfully most problems experienced by first time gas users is setting the needles and throttle endpoints/linkage.

As you adjust the low end needle, your throttle idle setting will change too... so it's possible you are too lean on the low needle AND the throttle idle is set too low...

For instance... as you lean the needle the engine idle speed quickens... you drop the throttle endpoint to get the engine into a decent low idle... BUT if the low needle is too lean, then the low idle doens't allow enough fuel to start the engine. As you richen the low needle the idle speed slows down, and you end up increasing throttle endpoint to raise the RPM to a desired idle rpm (1700 or so) But again... you can get TOO rich on the low needle and too high on the throttle endpoint and flood the carb.

First set the throws of the throttle to be closed (or as much so) at bottom and fully open at top. Then do your starting at 1/8 throttle.

How are you killing the engine? Throttle down, choke servo or optical kill? Choke servos can flood the engine.

How much did you turn the high needle when you thought it was running rich?

I'd back the high end off 1/4 turn and richen the low needle 1/4 turn and try again.

Todd D

My Feedback: (51)

All good points Maudib, especially the one about the low end being to lean. I forgot to mention earlier that Scott at Brillelli sets his engines to run prefect right out of the box. I wouldn't mess with the needles until there are a few gallons through it, then minor tweaks.
UH-60, set the needles to the factory settings as they were when you got it and give it a shot.
Let us know..

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

While Scott does set the needles and run them before he ships... that is at his conditions with his prop not in a cowl... While they may be "close enough" for some setups or even dead on... I think Scott himself would suggest that everyone adjust the needles to their setup...

But in doing so... I'm sure expects everyon to take the opportunity to either read up on the process or enlist the assistance of a veteran gas user.

It reall is a simple process... the high end is set with a tach and backed off 100-200 rpm

The hard part is describing the "sound" of various condition transitions. Once this is figured out... setting the low end is simple too...

UH-60driver

Thanks for all the great input. Ok, I never changed the mixture on low or high side when the engine would not start. Like I said, it was starting and running fine, then would not start again. I took off the cowl when I returned home, and still no luck. After multiple attempts, I did open the low side screw a little. Still no luck. If I prime it by squirting a small amount of fuel in the carb, or even in the cylinder after pulling the plug, at most I get a very weak pop one time. I decided to pull off the carb to ensure nothing was clogged in any of the ports and to ensure all the check valves were not cracked or damaged, and the diaphragm is fine as well. I am no expert on small engines, but I used to rebuild carbs on cars and was a mechanic for years. This thing has me stumped. The crank case seals look fine, but I am going to hook up a compression tester just to see what it reads. Even with the cylinder wet from a squirt of fuel in the carb it seems to be turning over a little too easy, and yes the spark plug is tight and seated. Is it possible it was running to lean for the amount of time and messed up the piston rings? Oh, and someone asked how I was killing it, it was with a manual switch on the ignition hooked up to a servo. The only time I choked the engine was to start it, not to kill it! I will keep you all posted on what else I try. Again, thanks for all your help and input!!!

UH-60driver

Hello everyone

Here is my update. I hooked up a compression tester to the engine this morning, at best I get between 45 and 50psi. This means nothing to me because I don't know what the pressure should be. I might have to ask Scott about this. I again put the plug in, and squirted fuel in the carb. Still nothing! This leads me to believe its one of two things....either I somehow damaged the cylinder walls and/or piston and I am not getting enough compression, or the spark is not hot enough. (I also made sure the timing did not change somehow, its still sparking just before top dead center) This is pretty basic and I am starting to feel stupid. This engine does not even have a head gasket that could blow leading to low compression! Its got to be one of those two things! I am going to call S/S Machine and Engineering today to see if I can use a spark gap tester on this module. The instructions read not to power the ignition without a plug in place so thats why I have not done this yet. This would tell me if I have too much resistance on my wire due to a break on the inside or something. I assume they use a carbon leads to cut down on radio noise so I doubt thats the problem, but I will check anyway....

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Have you tried Scott yet?


After trying several times to start the engine... is the carb dripping gas?

If not then it's almost certainly a fuel issue (not getting enough)... if it IS dripping gas then it could be EITHER carb settings too rich (flooding) or ignition isn't firing.

The is a VERY small possibility that the prop hub has slipped on the shaft. Have you messed with the prop like maybe it needed tightening down and realignment?

If it did slip a little it's possible the timing is out enough to not start.

ALso, just curious what did you select for fuel?

STG

My Feedback: (26)

I got a call from my uncle who just had a chance to fire up his new B46. He was very happy with the performance.

On the first tank it turned a 20x8 MA Scimitar wood 7,830 verified on 2 tacs! (close to sea level in Florida in 80° weather).

This is remarkable performance as same prop has run on Moki 2.1 glows at the same RPM. He is convinced that this motor out of the box with a 20x8 prop is just as strong as a Moki 2.1 on glow and will out power the M2.1 with break in.

Thanks Scott

stvinvegas

Can someone offer some help.

We just got our B46 back from Scott. We had to have the Shaft replaced. He tested the engine in his shop and said it was running perfect. We got it back mounted it up to the plane, put a 20X8 Master Air Screw on it and fired it up. It ran great for about 5 minutes, transistion was good, low idle was good and high was good. All of the sudden at full throttle it sounded really wierd. Sorry but the sound it is making is really hard to describe. But it sounds like its missing, but not really and it sounds really rough. We almost thought something came lose in the engine box and was rattling around, but this wasn't the case. The engine was making the noise.

So... We shut the engine down and started leaning the high, we are in Vegas at about 2K ASL. We leaned a 1/16 each time until we got to almost 3/4 of a turn. It improved very very slightly. We didn't want to go to lean and damage the engine. We then turned it back to where is was and richened the low a 1/16. Nothing really made a big difference so we changed the Plug.

Here are a couple questions.

1. Can you have any air in the line at all, is a bubble here or there ok?
2. Could the ignition be causing it? if the battery were low, or a short or something, or is ignition an all or none kind of thing?
3. Do we keep trying to tune, because we really went to the extreme on the High end leaning almost 3/4 a turn.
4. Any suggestions at all would be very helpful?

If after your suggestions we still can't get it right, I will make a video with the link for some of you to hear the sound it is making and see what you think.

Thanks in advance this forum is the greatest thing in RC!

STG

My Feedback: (26)

I am not very experienced with this motor or gas model airplane motors, so take this advise with a grain of salt:

1) Yes the ignition could be causing it. Make sure you have a fully charged 4.8v(4 cell) low impedance battery supply that you know to be good.

2) If it was running good at the current needle valve settings it does not make any sense that you would have to lean it 3/4 of a turn on next start up 5 min later--even during break in. Do not lean it as it seems there is a problem that adjusting the needles leaner will not cure.

3) It would be wise to invest in a tachometer so you can see the motor making power changes. If you had a baseline RPM when the motor was running good you could more safely make needle changes and monitor the motor for any rise or fall in RPM

4) Don’t know about the bubble(s) in the line--don't think an intermittent bubble will hurt anything. The only time I seen any bubbles in the line on mine is when I ran it out of gas at the end of the tank—myself, I would not run the motor at anything past lower power settings if I had a significant amount of bubbles in the line. --I do know that RC Showcase claims that most tuning problems that they help troubleshoot occur from an air leak in the gas line. That is why they recommend running a line straight from the tank to the carb without a fill "T" or filter.

UH-60driver

Hello All

Well, I talked with Scott on the phone, and he had me pull the piston out of the case. Turns out the piston ring was stuck inside the piston, not allowed to spring out against the cylinder wall. I was able to remove it and sand it just enough to fit inside the piston again like it should. The piston and ring also have some scrapes on the side that did not look good to me, but I am not an expert on small engines like this. I put it back together with engine assembly lube and tried to start it this time using a starter. Still no luck, the engine has so little compression now it will not even "flip" over by hand. I am sending it back to Scott to see what he thinks. Until then he told me he would take care of me by sending a short block fix the problem. I know Scott will take care of me, but I have to return to Iraq in a few months and I want to get all the flying in I can in right now!

Jake Ruddy

My Feedback: (40)

Well I talked to Scott lastnight about 2 hrs after he started their drive to Toledo.... I know he worked till 5am the day before trying to get caught up on all the engines that were sold.

From what I know they are basically caught up outside of orders that are placed in Toledo.... I dont think it will be an issue for you to get your fix shortly.

Jake Ruddy

My Feedback: (40)

Ignition battery charge can effect this.... possibly your ign. battery was going low?

Air bubbles are not going to cause an issue unless they happen often... if they do then you have a line problem and should probably recheck all your lines and your clunk.


I would look at the Hall sensor which is the square unit tthat has the wires coming off of it that plug to the ignition.. make sure it is secure and in place.. if it is moving that is your problem right there.