xtdsm

Hello guys, have you guys heard of a 3W 4 cylinder engine with "FK167" stamped on it? My cousin just received a gift from one of his family member; it was one huge extra with the mentioned engine and another biplane with the very same engine. Both planes are compiste and have some classic servos in them. Oh both engines have 32*10 wood propellers in them. We are thinking to get one of them flying but after replacing all electronics including servos batteries and so on and doing a very good range test. We also would love to know the specs of these engines. Any help in IDing these engines would be great.

Thanks


Ahmed


here are some pictures, you guys will also find a pump that I am not still sure if it was smoke pump or fuel pump, again these are classic planes/engines.

DALE PABAJO

it would help if you post some pictures of what you'r explaining on you'r post?mabe by giveing it a look at somebody can tell you something.

xtdsm

you are right, I will try to get some pics tomorow, it's 3 am here already.

thanks

MarksLHS

Check out Willkommen bei 3W Modellmotoren / Welcome to 3W Modellmotoren

MarksLHS

Click here: Willkommen bei 3W Modellmotoren / Welcome to 3W Modellmotoren

pe reivers

It is not a 3W engine, but a Kavan Continental lookalike

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

The Kavan Continental engines I have seen are 50cc 4 cycle opposed twins..Did 3W make something like this ?
Captin John has one....

pe reivers

XTDSM,
did you mean 4-cycle or 4-cylinder?

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

If it's the 4 cycle 50, I want one..IF it turns a 32-10 prop

xtdsm

added pics to my first post.

thanks

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

definitely 3W, we tried on in a race plane about 10 years ago...Ours was a 240, I think that one is a 140, using the 35cc cylinders...the pump is what B&B sells for a smoke pump, it's an oil pump in real life...If the ignitions work you might want to replace the caps, the older ones had a tendency to short out...The new ones have molded silicone inserts in the center, the old ones had some fiber stuff in there...

rc bugman

My Feedback: (30)

Hi,

I agree with Ralph. It looks like a 3w-140. Sweet running engine

Elson

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

cool metal baffling

Supermod56

My Feedback: (36)

Nope, it's a 160, I have both, and the 140 has a real short front snout like the old 70, Ralph even made me an extension for it several years ago. The 160 is a awesome running engine, as long as you put the new plug caps on it like Ralph mentioned. That looks like a Geoff Combs Extra, Steve Stricker won the TOC with that plane/motor combination. The Ultimate looks like the 3W one, designed around the 160, I had one, flies great, even though it weighs a ton. One thing to remember is you have to run the rear carb a little richer than the front to help with cooling, 1/4 turn more on the high speed if I remember correctly

Tom

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

I have a small 3W twin here, always thought it was a 70...The cylinders have the FK167 number cast into the base, so it looks like a 4 cylinder using these would be a 140...
I'll have to check it out, maybe 3W used the same cylinders with a longer stroke to get 160cc ?
OR maybe this twin is really an 80...It sure looks like the 70 twins we raced years ago when Giant Scale racing started...
Seems like the 70 cylinders had a different bolt spacing and couldn't be reversed to get the exhaust on the same side as the carb.....Some measuring is in order
Update, a rough measurement shows 70.62 ccs....

xtdsm

RCIGN1 and everyone else, I really appreciate your help.

so here is the plane.

- New plug caps will have to be purchased (are they easy to install, I heard if you mess up the installation you can get all sort of interference)
- we will start with the extra, first we will put her on a diet, cause she is way way too heavy (no actual weight yet) but the damn thing is so heavy.
- we will start by removing the classic smoke system in there, along with the batteries (the receiver battery looks like it weighs 1kg+ on its own) then we will move all the hardwood in it (yes hard heavy wood, I think at these times they did not have any lighter or balsa wood)
- we will try to modify the elevators and ailerons to get more throw for 3d (now they seem to move a max of 25 degree or so) we are also thinking about extending the rudder cause this thing looks pretty small for that size plane, what you guys think?
- Finally new 8511 for everything with pull pull setup for the rudder (now the extra has 4 servos mounted in the tail with push rods for the rudder) along with powrebox


What you guys think?

skydiver

I just e-mailed Geoff Combs the builder/original owner of this model. I'm sure he can help you with the origin of this 3W engine and other details of the model

xtdsm

great, thanks a lot buddy.

Supermod56

My Feedback: (36)

I'm not sure what the numbers mean, but that is a 160 for sure, a 140 won't turn a 32-10, and they have the exhaust on the top, unless you re-drill the case to flip em around like I did. The 140 also has caps on the side of the cylinders where the carb bolted up on the 35cc single. One easy way to tell is if it has the large bolt pattern on the prop bolts, the 140 has the smaller "100 cc" size pattern, the 160 is the same as a present-day 150 twin. My 140 had the carbs on the aluminum angled manifolds, the 160 has the phenolic straight block. Changing the ignition caps is easy, no interference problems really, they screw into the plug wire, then you crimp the clamp and heat shrink it, all that stuff comes with the new caps. Also, those old ignitions are for 4.8 volt ONLY, so make sure you have the right battery(s) for it. The 160 is a great motor, heavy at almost 13 lbs, but awesome sound and no vibration whatsoever!!! They are LOUD!! You might wanna leave those rudder servos in the back to get it to balance with all that weight up front

Tom

rcdude7

My Feedback: (264)

I don't mean to hijack anyones thread, but on the subject of the old style 3W plug caps, I have a 3W 120 with a pre-blue dot ignition and the caps have those fiber inserts surrounded by silicone sealant. To my knowlege this ignition has never been in a flying plane, should I change out the caps before my first flight. The engine and ignition are in new condition.

Many thanks, Mike

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Wouldn't hurt, nothing worse than an engine cutting out when you're doing something close to the ground...
My 70 twin cylinders have no caps covering holes in the sides, it was made to be a reed engine in the first place...This twin has a square mount for the reed valve and the small 1.133 six bolt hub...
All the newer twins have the rectangular reed block...
Apparently 3W did, and still does, "mix and match" parts to make different size engines...
The very early 70 twins had a different crankcase with wimpy little legs like the early 60 single for the mounting bolts, this one is cast solid in between the holes...
The bore and stroke definitely make it a 70.....

splais

My Feedback: (25)

Ahmed,

the "pump" is a B & B manual smoke pump. I have one on an old (15 years) Pitts and it is still working great. a little heavy and bulky compared to some of the newer stuff; but obviously full-proof in operation. It works off of engine pulses from the crankcase. You should have a nipple on the crankcase someplace.

xtdsm

thanks everyone, you guys are great.

I will make sure to update this thread once we start this project.

Ahmed

Supermod56

My Feedback: (36)

Ralph, my 70 is the same way with no ports and a flat reed block, but the 140 does have ports and angled carb mounts, weird ain't it?? I could never figure out why the 140 had the exhaust ports facing up!!!!! Every time I hit the ground with my old 60, those wimpy legs you are talking about broke off, had them welded more than once!!!

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

I fixed some of those by milling the whole back of the case flat and using long 5mm flat heads to hold a flat plate on the back of the engine...Worked that way on some twins too