Copperhead Venom 45
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
Tim @ copperhead
I have tried to call on your cell and at work and left several messages and emailed you, I have not had a call back yet just needing to know when my 2 engines will be here. I am on vacation next week and would like to test fly the Yak. Let me know you have my number or reply here. Thanks Donzie
I have tried to call on your cell and at work and left several messages and emailed you, I have not had a call back yet just needing to know when my 2 engines will be here. I am on vacation next week and would like to test fly the Yak. Let me know you have my number or reply here. Thanks Donzie
#877
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
I started this thread to discuss the engine that Copperhead sells. For the most part it has stuck to that, I dont care much for the posts that just say * I called twice an didnt get anyone* 2 hours after you called. Copperhead should be contacted via email or there website or a phone message not here in the engine thread. Not trying to be a pain just hate wading through mumbo jumbo that doesnt have to do with the actual engine.
Thanks Dan
Thanks Dan
#878
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
Hello
Interesting that the last post was directed at people who have bought the engine and are doing some inquiring. It appears that Tim monitors this site at times more often, and it is simply a way of communicating with him. Maybe the last post should be directed to Venom and having them respond to the emails/phone calls versus having to get answers on this site. By the way my engine runs very well can idle at 1350 and rpm with 22/8 is 7100 and flys a 17lb plane very well,,,,
bec
Interesting that the last post was directed at people who have bought the engine and are doing some inquiring. It appears that Tim monitors this site at times more often, and it is simply a way of communicating with him. Maybe the last post should be directed to Venom and having them respond to the emails/phone calls versus having to get answers on this site. By the way my engine runs very well can idle at 1350 and rpm with 22/8 is 7100 and flys a 17lb plane very well,,,,
bec
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
You missed the point, I think its great if ppl communicate about the moter or issues with it or performance reports or tips. What I hate is the *why havent I heard back from you, its been 2 minutes* type of post. Its OT from the origanol thread.
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
Hello Mitsui
I am using the zinger pro 22/8,,, it has been the one of choice on here and I gave it a try and am really impressed....NOW on the other hand balancing this prop was a real pain,,,it was really out of wack so I ended up spray painting the tip and have it balanced now.. I also tried a Clark prop 22/8 and got 6700 on the same settings. The engine is still new and is running a bit rich so I may even get more rpm with the zinger,,,I am going to re set it again this weekend. amd will keep you posted....
bec
I am using the zinger pro 22/8,,, it has been the one of choice on here and I gave it a try and am really impressed....NOW on the other hand balancing this prop was a real pain,,,it was really out of wack so I ended up spray painting the tip and have it balanced now.. I also tried a Clark prop 22/8 and got 6700 on the same settings. The engine is still new and is running a bit rich so I may even get more rpm with the zinger,,,I am going to re set it again this weekend. amd will keep you posted....
bec
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
Remember guys, all these static prop tests you are doing don't tell you anything about how your airplane is going to perform. You must actually fly with each prop to determine if it's correct for your particular application. No two engines and no two props operate exactly the same. Environmental conditions won't allow this. So you install a prop, tune it up and FLY. If it works, you keep it, if it doesn't work you change to a different prop. It's really that simple.
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
An E-MAIL from a happy Venom Owner...
*******
Guys,
This motor is a new monster! Totally different in all respects. More power,better response and just a kick ass upgrade!. Tacks around 6900 with a Zinger 22-8 and pulls with great authority. Took it to the field yesterday but did not get to fly. Mother nature did not co-operate. Will try later this week.
Mark- thanks for the help with the motor and locating the props. Will email the results after flying this beast!
Frank
*******
*******
Guys,
This motor is a new monster! Totally different in all respects. More power,better response and just a kick ass upgrade!. Tacks around 6900 with a Zinger 22-8 and pulls with great authority. Took it to the field yesterday but did not get to fly. Mother nature did not co-operate. Will try later this week.
Mark- thanks for the help with the motor and locating the props. Will email the results after flying this beast!
Frank
*******
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
Lubrication
While I know most gas owners use 32:1 or 40:1 petrolium based lubrication, there's some that are compelled to use 100:1 synthetics. I don't recommend 100:1. Your engine will last a lot longer with a little more lubrication if it happens to go lean on you. And, it will happen sooner or later. Also, synthetics tend to spray specs of black residue on the bottom of your aircraft.
While I know most gas owners use 32:1 or 40:1 petrolium based lubrication, there's some that are compelled to use 100:1 synthetics. I don't recommend 100:1. Your engine will last a lot longer with a little more lubrication if it happens to go lean on you. And, it will happen sooner or later. Also, synthetics tend to spray specs of black residue on the bottom of your aircraft.
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
I received an engine in that was seized up. In order to inspect it, I had to cut the top of the cylinder off so I could HAMMER the piston out. Inspection revealed that the wristpin didn't get enough lubrication and burned up. This in turn, let the needle bearing release which got wedged between the piston and cylinder. The engine was running on 100:1 Sabre Synthetic. This is a "CLASSIC" example of why I don't recommend using 100:1 synthetics.
High ratio oil mixes don't serve any puropse in preserving your engine.
If you use Sabre 100:1 mix then prepare yourself for a seized engine.
Mixing your Sabre oil to 80:1 won't help a bit... I recommend Pennzoil 2-Cycle Oil mixed at 32:1 ONLYl
High ratio oil mixes don't serve any puropse in preserving your engine.
If you use Sabre 100:1 mix then prepare yourself for a seized engine.
Mixing your Sabre oil to 80:1 won't help a bit... I recommend Pennzoil 2-Cycle Oil mixed at 32:1 ONLYl
#887
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
You can easily run Saber at any mixture you wish up to 100:1. Running Pennzoil/Lawnboy at 32:1 for the engines life will end up sticking the ring with the resulting loss in compression requiring another rebuild long before it's ready. If I would run anything other than 100:1 I would do Pennzoil at 50:1
Talk to RC Bugman. He runs at high ratios on engines that run hard for many hours at a time pulling loads the whole time that you and I will most likely never do and his engines never look like this. I suspect there is more to the story that what has been mentioned. I would almost bet that the engines owner has not or is not aware that he may have mixed a batch of fuel improperly. I just had this happen this past week. An engine was brought in for repair for no start. I got the cylinder apart and found the ring stuck in the land. A quick replacement of the piston/ring along with a honing of the cylinder quickly fixed it up but I decided to look at the fuel because the engine did not show signs of overheating and low and behold, the gas in the tank was pretty clear. I called the owner and after a few minute discovered he read the bottle wrong and ended mixing the gas at 200:1. No engine is gonna last at that ratio.
As mentioned you must be careful with tuning as a lean run will destroy the engine in short order. My point and I am NOT trying to start an argument over this oil and that oil, is, proper tuning and maintenance of any gas engine will go a long way at giving you the most time between rebuilds than anything else. There is study after study about oils and mixtures used for Ultralite's, I would suggest you go an read them
Talk to RC Bugman. He runs at high ratios on engines that run hard for many hours at a time pulling loads the whole time that you and I will most likely never do and his engines never look like this. I suspect there is more to the story that what has been mentioned. I would almost bet that the engines owner has not or is not aware that he may have mixed a batch of fuel improperly. I just had this happen this past week. An engine was brought in for repair for no start. I got the cylinder apart and found the ring stuck in the land. A quick replacement of the piston/ring along with a honing of the cylinder quickly fixed it up but I decided to look at the fuel because the engine did not show signs of overheating and low and behold, the gas in the tank was pretty clear. I called the owner and after a few minute discovered he read the bottle wrong and ended mixing the gas at 200:1. No engine is gonna last at that ratio.
As mentioned you must be careful with tuning as a lean run will destroy the engine in short order. My point and I am NOT trying to start an argument over this oil and that oil, is, proper tuning and maintenance of any gas engine will go a long way at giving you the most time between rebuilds than anything else. There is study after study about oils and mixtures used for Ultralite's, I would suggest you go an read them
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
I totally agree with you Bill.
However as you well know, many pilots are new to gassers and this by itself is a potential problem. Improper mix coupled with improper tune results in disaster somewhere down the line. There's nothing wrong with Sabre 100:1 or any high ration mix IF the conditions are correct. I have found that a good quality petrolium oil at 32:1 gives the user a much bigger margin of error. I'd much rather un-stick a ring than replace the whole top-end of an engine, and sometimes an entire engine.
However as you well know, many pilots are new to gassers and this by itself is a potential problem. Improper mix coupled with improper tune results in disaster somewhere down the line. There's nothing wrong with Sabre 100:1 or any high ration mix IF the conditions are correct. I have found that a good quality petrolium oil at 32:1 gives the user a much bigger margin of error. I'd much rather un-stick a ring than replace the whole top-end of an engine, and sometimes an entire engine.
#889
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
ORIGINAL: mfuess
I totally agree with you Bill.
However as you well know, many pilots are new to gassers and this by itself is a potential problem. Improper mix coupled with improper tune results in disaster somewhere down the line. There's nothing wrong with Sabre 100:1 or any high ration mix IF the conditions are correct. I have found that a good quality petrolium oil at 32:1 gives the user a much bigger margin of error. I'd much rather un-stick a ring than replace the whole top-end of an engine, and sometimes an entire engine.
I totally agree with you Bill.
However as you well know, many pilots are new to gassers and this by itself is a potential problem. Improper mix coupled with improper tune results in disaster somewhere down the line. There's nothing wrong with Sabre 100:1 or any high ration mix IF the conditions are correct. I have found that a good quality petrolium oil at 32:1 gives the user a much bigger margin of error. I'd much rather un-stick a ring than replace the whole top-end of an engine, and sometimes an entire engine.
I did use Saber 100:1 for a long time and would get about 20 - 30 gallons or so before a rebuild then switched out to Pennzoil at 50:1 and am approaching 10 gallons on one of the rebuilt engines and so far the engine is as clean as it was with the 100:1 and I feel much better should I mis-tune it because I went to a new field for IMAC.
And BTW, I did mislead you on the engine with the stuck ring. It was more melted to the piston on one side, the exhaust side to be more specific. I did pop it loose after breaking it first so it became brittle because it took no effort at all to break it but loads of effort to get it out.
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
OK guys, why does the manufacturer of the Venom 30 and 45 specify in th users manual to use 33:1?
Maybe it's because they have done quality control testing on their own product and concluded that for all round general use the 33:1 gives best results.
What do you reckon on this Tim?
Maybe it's because they have done quality control testing on their own product and concluded that for all round general use the 33:1 gives best results.
What do you reckon on this Tim?
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
ORIGINAL: The Big Kahuna
OK guys, why does the manufacturer of the Venom 30 and 45 specify in th users manual to use 33:1?
Maybe it's because they have done quality control testing on their own product and concluded that for all round general use the 33:1 gives best results.
What do you reckon on this Tim?
OK guys, why does the manufacturer of the Venom 30 and 45 specify in th users manual to use 33:1?
Maybe it's because they have done quality control testing on their own product and concluded that for all round general use the 33:1 gives best results.
What do you reckon on this Tim?
33:1 equals 3.87878 ounces of oil per gallon of gas.
I think we're splitting hairs here.... but it's a lot easier to measure 4 ounces than 3.87 ounces.
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
32 or 33 won't be noticeable and either is no more trouble if you work in metric units, but it is a huge difference to the suggestion of 100:1. It seems that our friend does more weedwacking them flying as hip level low performance is the only place on earth for 100:1
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
ORIGINAL: The Big Kahuna
OK guys, why does the manufacturer of the Venom 30 and 45 specify in th users manual to use 33:1?
Maybe it's because they have done quality control testing on their own product and concluded that for all round general use the 33:1 gives best results.
What do you reckon on this Tim?
OK guys, why does the manufacturer of the Venom 30 and 45 specify in th users manual to use 33:1?
Maybe it's because they have done quality control testing on their own product and concluded that for all round general use the 33:1 gives best results.
What do you reckon on this Tim?
During break-in,
We recommend a petroleum based oil. As the rings seat "Wear in" the extra lubrication is advisable. 33:1 was what I used in the manual because the brand of oil we were using recommended that mix. Follow what’s on the bottle, they know best. The life cycle tests we do indicate less carbon build up with petroleum based than synthetics. With synthetics we found quite a bit of build up on the head, but you will likely never put that many hours on your motor. The synthetics did increase the performance of the motor but when it’s in isn’t ware in stage, take care in tuning the properly if using the 80 – 100-1 right away or what Mark posted above WILL HAPPEN!
I am in China and will be here for the next few months. This is my 5:50am and we are a day ahead. I’m working on some new designs and will post Pics as soon as I can.
Cheers,
#894
RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
[:@][:@][:@] Have you guys bumped your heads? This is absolutely NOT oil related ! Who ever put this engine together had a couple of needle bearings fall down as the wrist pin was pressed through the connecting rod and they ended up inside the wrist pin. Thats right, INSIDE the wrist pin!! Then the engine was assembled and ran. I'm not sure how long it took for them to migrate out of the wrist pin but the end result is in the pics[X(] The wrist pin is chewed up because guess what, it didn't have enough needle bearings in it. Plain and simple! I personally run Saber at 100:1 and wouldn't put Pennzoil on a door hinge. I rest my case...
#895
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
Nice guess, but not even close. V45's use captured needlebeaings. The only way to remove a needle is to bust out the cage, grind off the end of the bearing housing, or burn up the bearing.
#896
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
I'm betting the engine overheated and the cage released resulting in the pics shown. As we all know heat can cause all sorts of things to happen that may look like something else. This is one of those that can be very hard to troubleshoot without being in front of it and knowing the full history and what exactly had happened at the time the engine seized.
One thing is for sure, I'll bet it was knocking pretty good before the engine finally destroyed itself, probably on the previous flight and the owner either did not notice it (though it would be pretty obvious) or did not recognize what it was.
Now on the flip side, I've seen caged bearings come apart during assembly and noticed it after I spun the engine by hand. Those brands of bearings were never used again. I've also seen bearings come from the manufacturer short a needle or two right out of the box and and noticed it during the assembly because I pre-lubed it
One quick question, were the rest of the bearings in the engine or did they "disappear"
One thing is for sure, I'll bet it was knocking pretty good before the engine finally destroyed itself, probably on the previous flight and the owner either did not notice it (though it would be pretty obvious) or did not recognize what it was.
Now on the flip side, I've seen caged bearings come apart during assembly and noticed it after I spun the engine by hand. Those brands of bearings were never used again. I've also seen bearings come from the manufacturer short a needle or two right out of the box and and noticed it during the assembly because I pre-lubed it
One quick question, were the rest of the bearings in the engine or did they "disappear"
#898
RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
I see no signs of overheating. I don't think its even possible for a complete needle bearing to get out between the rod and piston. The needle bearing cage does not even look damaged. I still think you guys are blowing smoke! That damage is complete and decisive. The piston was wedged, not seized. Prove your point.
#899
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
Ok guys,
I'm one of the gasser newbies. I have but a single gas can dedicated to my fleet of oh... 2 gassers, and one is still on the building blocks.
I currently mix one packet of Opti-2 with one gallon of unleaded. I do this because Opti-2 came with my BCMA 26cc engine. It seems to run happily on it (but what do I know?). Now I read about all this ashless/Lawnboy/32:1 petroleum oil requirement. I haven't put any fuel in my Venom 45 yet. I'd really LIKE to put my existing Opti-2 mixed fuel in it.
Must I get a second gas fueling setup???
I'm one of the gasser newbies. I have but a single gas can dedicated to my fleet of oh... 2 gassers, and one is still on the building blocks.
I currently mix one packet of Opti-2 with one gallon of unleaded. I do this because Opti-2 came with my BCMA 26cc engine. It seems to run happily on it (but what do I know?). Now I read about all this ashless/Lawnboy/32:1 petroleum oil requirement. I haven't put any fuel in my Venom 45 yet. I'd really LIKE to put my existing Opti-2 mixed fuel in it.
Must I get a second gas fueling setup???
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
ORIGINAL: extra-nut
I see no signs of overheating. I don't think its even possible for a complete needle bearing to get out between the rod and piston. The needle bearing cage does not even look damaged. I still think you guys are blowing smoke! That damage is complete and decisive. The piston was wedged, not seized. Prove your point.
I see no signs of overheating. I don't think its even possible for a complete needle bearing to get out between the rod and piston. The needle bearing cage does not even look damaged. I still think you guys are blowing smoke! That damage is complete and decisive. The piston was wedged, not seized. Prove your point.
I am more curious why you are such an antagonist. You could make your points with a much more agreeable tone and not try to put people in a defensive position. Just my thoughts...