wttiger42

Yes, thats the muffler im talking about. I cannot compare to the cannister system because i have not used it. I have wanted to try like i mentioned, but never bought it. Im happy with the performance of my motor on the planes i fly. RTF weight is probably over 18lbs and i can take off and fly straight up.

I havent even adjusted the needles yet, and am using 35:1 amzoil/93 octane fuel.

BaldEagel

Duber3

These engines definatly benifit from a free flowing exhast cannister an MTW 75 increased the revs on my 45 by 1100rpm without any other mods, did not even touch the neddles, you do need a decent length of manifold as well.

Mike

EDIT: To add link to vidio showing the difference: http://media.putfile.com/MVVS-45-Mag...-and-Cannister

giantflier

voltage is 4.8v (according the manual), prop 22x8.
All right I'll switch to 6v, but I don't see gasoline is running from the tank. It looks like it does not move at all when I spin the prop. What wrong with it could be? Please help.

Baphomet

Hi Giantflier !

I have the Mvvs 45 mag and i have no experience of gasers too ! But mine is running fine !
Choke with your finger or hand over the carbinlett a few times until gas flows to the carb and a few times more , then turn the ignition on and it must start after a few flips , else something wrong .
My ignition is not the newest one and i'm using 5 cells RC 1700 . Choking with choke is sometimes not enough after a longer pause , cause the Pump will dry out .
To get fuel in the carb , you can try as follow :

Lift the tail of the Model and blow in the hole of the coverplate of the diaphragma , that will let the fuel flow into the carbchamber . Be shure that the Line from Tank is connected to the short Nippel of the opposite of the needles , not to the pumpcoverplatenippel .

Sorry , my english is not good , but i hope you'll understand what i mean .

giantflier

Thank you Ralf,

I'll try to start this engine again as soon as it becomes a little bit wormer outside. Yesterday it was still snowing!

Anyways I keep finding some problems which I did not notice before.
I discovered that two hex socket head screws (M2.5 or so) which secure the rpm sensor at the crankcase are too long!
I put it with the Loctite and tightened but sensor was still rocking in place, can you believe that?!
So yesterday I had to shorten the screws for about 1 mm, only then sensor set in place tightly and securely. Maybe that is why engine did not start?
That would be interesting to hear what Mr. Pe says.

Baphomet

Not realy , my fits fine ! Do you use metrish tools ? That's the reason , why you can't start your engine , but not the reason for not getting fuel in carb !

pe reivers

The sensor needs washers under the bolt heads. Then they fit OK. That is how the factory supplies them.

If the carb will not pump fuel:
Check proper carb pressure line fitting. The manual shows it well.
Check the fuel line for leaks and kinks.
Check the carb internal fuel filter.
fully close the choke, and cover the small hole with a finger. Then rock the prop (bump) to and fro agaist compression. You should see the fuel be drawn into the fuel line.
If the regulating needle is stuck (Walbro problem), you can indeed take a silicone tube, and blow on the carb membrane like Rolf said. That should lift the needle off the seat and unstick it.
A little bit of pressure on the fuel tank to get fuel into the carb for the first time also helps sometime.

Be sure to get clean fuel into your tank, and use a felt clunk.
The fuel draw line to the carb should not be used as a tank fill line. This will cause lint particles to enter the line between tank and engine, and in due time will clog your internal carb strainer.
A T-fitting in the line is a source of air leaks. Don't use it, and use a seperate line to fill up your tank.

giantflier

Thank you Pe,
Manual says absolutely nothing about where washers are to be.
Does that mean that I need bigger gap between sensor and magnet?

pe reivers

LOL! The washer goes between the screw head and the sensor body, where washers always go
Keep the gap between sensor and magnet smaller than 0.5mm

giantflier

Probably I did not read what you previously said carefully enough.
I thought you said that washers must be BETWEEN the sensor and crankcase and I was surprised by this suggestion.

Of course what I did at the very beginning is I placed the washers between the screws heads and sensor body as usually.
But screws which came with engine were TOO long. So screws hit the bottom of the hole and did not go further down.
So I did everything correctly but screws were wrong. Now when I cat them off the gap is around 0.5 mm.

giantflier

Folks, it's running!

My opinion is that the problem was the sensor. First I secured it properly and second - I changed the battery from 4.8 to 6 v and it's came to life! I am back in businness too!

Obviously it's a monster. I tried the prop 23x8, but it seems that this engine will spin 24x10 easily! Cannot wait when the field is dry.
Thanks everyone a lot! Without your help I would not start this engine guys!

tonyrobbo4

hi guys i live in the united kingdom and i need spares for my mvvs 45irs doesnt matter were in the world i get them. my first start has always been hard after that it will go when you look at it. hard to get at the rear carb with a cowl on cheers tony

pe reivers

I can get you all the spares you need.

For starting, a tip is to solder the choke plate hole shut. But first I would check the starting procedure.
Choke fully closed (check that the choke plate closes properly)
throttle 1/4 open
ignition on
flip till it starts and stops
open choke
set throttle at high idle
flip again till it starts

redcesar

Hi Pe,

Here is a short video that shows how easely a MVVS 116 fires up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_kmSps_g5E

Cesar.

giantflier

Hi guys,

I have some problem with my MVVS.
I need some suggestion but I have to show what the problem is. I don't know how to attach the images to my message.
Can somebody help me please?

BaldEagel

When you click on reply at the bottom of the page is a blue sentance which says "Click here to upload images and files" click on that and a window will open with a brouse button click on the first one and it should take you to your computer window and allow you to click on any pic's you wish to upload, after you have clicked on the pic you have to go back to the brouse window and click OK at the bottom, then wait until another window opens which tells you OK then close the windows and the pic will be in your post, don't expect to see it in the posting window it will only appear when you click OK at the bottom of your post.

Hope that helps, it sounds complicated but its not.

Mike

giantflier

Thank you Mike, very much.

I guess now my pictures are coming up.
Yesterday I flu a couple of times. Everithing was fine - I was gradually tuning my plane.
When I startded my engine again it seemed to me that the noise coming from the engine is odd. I thought maybe there is some problem with the muffler or something like that. Usually it works pretty quiet.
I stopped the engine, opened the cowl and found that there is no any viisible damages. The crankshaft is spinning freely, compression is impressive.
But.
When I looked at engine carefully I found this strange oily stuff at the front of the crankcase (see the pictures).
I believe that nothing is suppose to be coming out of inside of the engine except thru exhaust. Obviously it's not right.
So I am a little bit dissapointed. I don't know if engine is broken or spoiled some way, or it's normal and I can start it again?
If it is so what was this sound?
Can somebody tell me what is happening to this engine please?

pe reivers

Andrew B,
This is not supposed to happen. It is a sure sign that you have been running the engine way too hot by lack of cooling provisions. This causes damage to the front seal, and the front bearing grease runs out. If you are lucky, no damage has been done yet. Improve cooling as soon as possible. You can find ideas on my web site at http://www.prme.nl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=37

giantflier

That's bad...
Anyway thank you Pe.
I am going to read this article carefully. Obviously I am not going to fly before I figure out how to solve this problem.
What kind of damages could be because of it?
I am also wondering if the engine could just spin in oppoite direction and lubricant went out because of that?

pe reivers

The MVVS piston is graphite coated, so it will not give an early warning for running too hot. Other engine brands will sag first, and then seize the piston. That means a ruined piston and cylinder lining.
Because MVVS keeps on running under these conditions, the casing will get too hot, and the lubrication oil will become watery thin, loosing all lubrication power. You already noticed that the front bearing came in distress, but so will the rear bearing and the connecting rod needle bearings. These will fail if the lubrication oil cannot do it's job properly anymore.
Using a high grade fully synthetic racing oil as prescribed by MVVS will allow higher temperatures, but is no cure-all for lacking engine installation.
You need to get that engine temperature down. The case should never be hotter than 90°C, and the plug boss needs to stay below 140°C (In flight. Measuring the temp's after landing is useless).

ggroyal1

I have the Evolution 45gx2 in a Hangar9 Cap232g. It cranks everytime, runs great and have never had a dead stick. I am using a 7.4v lipo battery for ign. and a fiber optic ign cutoff. The ignition system has a choke option than can be atuomatic or manual, I am using the manual setup with the servo connected to aux2 channel. Also make sure the ignition led flashes three times and goes out, if the led flashes all the time, you need to power off the ign and power it back on. I have had this engine for about nine months and it is my first gas. If you are use to flying glow engines, it is a big change, but after you get the hang of it, it is a piece of cake. There are only two of us at the flying field that have Evoution/MVVS engines and they run just as good or better than the other brands.
George G. Royal

giantflier

I made baffering as you suggested and going to try how it works right away. I'll place a picture of it too.
Just wondering how to measure the temperature during the flight... I suspect that there are some RC devices. Wich one would suggest folks?

pe reivers

Tower hobbies used to sell the Venom temperature gauge, that car engine users use to tune the carb of their engines. I have a few, and we use it to "measure" the peak temperature in flight to check cooling and carb settings of our gas engines.

I send you a PM concerning front bearing damage and repair options, that I discussed with MVVS on your behalf.

Edit:
Can you post pictures of your cooling system and baffles?

giantflier

Right!
I just forgot to post pictures. I have too many things to do today. I'll try to do that towards evening.

giantflier

Here you have pictures of buffing.
Cooling is much better now however ball-bearing is still leaking. That is bad...