chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

Doug,

I was doing the same as you and got gunk in the screen. I also put a "crap trap" on the vent line because someone posted about getting dirt up the vent line from an unpaved runway. Cheap insurance for me.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD742
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFU77

Chuck

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

OK cool. Thanks for the info Chuck, maybe I'll have to end up using them after all.

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

Yep I put a filter on all my vent lines. That way every way into the fuel tank is filtered.

ply68

My Feedback: (29)

I have a new dl-50 engine installed on a giant sundancer. After making the initial prep, I tried to fire up the dl-50. All I get are sputter and that is it. I can hear the engine wants to start but will not fire up properly. I tried to play around with the carb but still getting the same sputter. Any suggestion on getting the engine running is much appreciated. Thanks

PLY68

Bosco2

My Feedback: (42)

Remove the spark plug and check to see it it is flooded, Im sure the battery is charged, plug cap is on correctly and tight, need more details as to your set up?

rcfan450

I found that if I crack the throttle a touch it fires right up. I discovered this after I completely flooded the crap out of it several times because it simply wasn't getting enough air along with the gas. Mine sounded exactly like yours though. It would try to start, but the more I tried the less it tried to start (ie - the more it got flooded). Once it is going it idles perfect with the trims that low, but mine needs more air to start - that's it.

ply68

My Feedback: (29)

Thanks for responding to my question. So what causes the engine to flood like that?

giddyuperic

Can someone please tell me should the gas line to the carb be long or short or what? I might have al ready got this but this goes to show you about old age DUH!!!!

paul5992

PLY68, Small gas engines just like any gas engine need the proper fuel air ratio in the combustion chamber to fire. On a carburated motor it is tough to get the mixture just right to start. Different altitude, temperature, humidity,and choke all make a difference. The manufacture tries to design the choke to work in all the different scenarios but inevidably they can't. When you only get one compression stroke to start and run, your mix has to be perfect. That's why you have to open the throttle a bit to start these engines. The mix isn't just right.

paul5992

Eric, the only reason the vent line needs to be run to the back of the tank is to stop syphoning when you tip the tail up. Or on long down lines while in flight. The carb feed line can be any length you want.

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

I'm not sure what you mean exactly Eric, but the fuel pump will pump fuel from a very long distance away and will pull it verticaly more than 3 feet. So I don't think your plane is big enough to have to long a fuel line. You want to leave an inch or so of slack between the tank and carb.

mstam1971

My Feedback: (2)

Or simply use a one-way valve. This also allows you to put a T coupler between the valve and tank w/ a return line so you can use 2 fuel dots. No mess. The Jersey Modeler cans come w/ a return line.

giddyuperic

Thanks I got it now. You guys are so nice this is a great thread thanks. I got some of the crap trap filters two of them do I really need one on the vent? And yes are field is dirt hard pack. We just put up a nice shade here is a link to alot of videos from our club. http://search.live.com/video/results...&go=&form=QBVR

giddyuperic

Thank every body you are so very nice I will be offf for awhile NCIS is on the Tv right now. Thanks

OldRookie

My Feedback: (13)

mstam1971

Where can you get a one way valve like the one you described?

Greg

SIX GUNS

ok guys I know that this has been talked about before and I went back through the threads and did not find it
what is the best way or things to use on the exhaust flange and bolts to keep them from comming loose thanks

JIM

mstam1971

My Feedback: (2)

I got myself a couple from horizon hobby when I ordered a new radio.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...?ProdID=FOR150
tank -> T coupler -> valve -> intake at the top of the firewall
When you fill the tank, the valve closes and fuel is forced through the return line connected to the coupler.

mstam1971

My Feedback: (2)

I'm using the white thread locker sold by Advance Auto Parts. They sell a couple and one is white.

liquid_TR

actually, if you tighten them (when cold) just right, not too much, and not too weak, they wont come off at all from vibration or any other cause. No need for red or blue loctite or any other stuff.

giddyuperic

I don't know where I heard this but it works great. Take them apart and when they are nice and cool put a little oil on the threads and they won't come apart. It works I do it on my saito's and they never come loose.

paul5992

I've had my muffler fall off 3 times. So do yourself a favor. Go to the hardware store and buy yourself some new bolts that are long enough to go threw the muffler and threw all the threads of the head on the motor. Also buy some washers that will fit in the muffler bolt holes. Also get some red lock tight or some other permanent loctite. I've had to buy an 80 dollar Heili coil set because I thought I new better. Do what you want. But if you don't do it right you will be back on here asking me where I got my heili coil set.

paul5992

THESE ARE NOT GLOW ENGINES!!!!!!!!

Bosco2

My Feedback: (42)

I had to go with the heili coil system cost me the same but the best part is that it works very well even affter removing the muffler several time affter,

giddyuperic

It is even worked on my DL too. I thought locktight will melt under the heat???????

Bosco2

My Feedback: (42)

I use a green color Locktight for flange retaining rated at 450* temp not all locktight will handle the heat, In fact some times you use heat to remove a bolt that was locktight in,