DL 100 - New Twin on the Block!!
#351
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RE: DL 100 - New Twin on the Block!!
Does any one knows where i can find a spare carburetor for my dl100?? My one is a crap and imposible to tuning at high rpm, always lean and overheat my engine
#352
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RE: DL 100 - New Twin on the Block!!
Hey guys just wanted to let you know Jody at Valleyview hobbies just E.Mailed me and said he found excess sealant used on the welch plug under the metering diaghram came loose and got stuck in the cavity around the high speed needles. and that was my problem with the impossible to tune high speed needles. He then tried it on his motor and worked great. Thanks Robert
#353
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RE: DL 100 - New Twin on the Block!!
sniperpilot,
The plug pictures you presented are quite interesting. Without having them in my hand it appears that you are experiencing the effects of contaminated fuel. I don't believe the engine is at fault here, but I do believe that your local source of fuel has water or some other contaminants in the storage tanks.
Next time you buy gas use a clean container devoid of any previous oil. Locate a sealable glass container like a quart mason jar with lid. Put about 1/4" of water in the bottom of the mason jar and use a marker to make a line at that point on the outside of the jar. Shake up the gas can to mix any contaminants in the gas. Now fill the mason jar and seal it up. Let it stand for awhile. Check back to see if the water level in the jar is at a higher level than it was.
If so you will know that you will need to separate the gas from the contaminants. No one way is better than another unless you have a large container that has a drainable sump at the bottom. Few do. Otherwise you'll need to be able to see the water in the gas to separate it. Requires a larger glass container....
The plug pictures you presented are quite interesting. Without having them in my hand it appears that you are experiencing the effects of contaminated fuel. I don't believe the engine is at fault here, but I do believe that your local source of fuel has water or some other contaminants in the storage tanks.
Next time you buy gas use a clean container devoid of any previous oil. Locate a sealable glass container like a quart mason jar with lid. Put about 1/4" of water in the bottom of the mason jar and use a marker to make a line at that point on the outside of the jar. Shake up the gas can to mix any contaminants in the gas. Now fill the mason jar and seal it up. Let it stand for awhile. Check back to see if the water level in the jar is at a higher level than it was.
If so you will know that you will need to separate the gas from the contaminants. No one way is better than another unless you have a large container that has a drainable sump at the bottom. Few do. Otherwise you'll need to be able to see the water in the gas to separate it. Requires a larger glass container....
#354
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RE: DL 100 - New Twin on the Block!!
Thank you some much for the advice, but is the same gas i use inmy other 3 gasserrs with out issues. Im sure i have a faulty carburetor, because is imposible to reach a rich condotion in the high speed circuit at full rpm, only you hear the burbling sound few seconds and it starts to lean to the point the right cylinder (the hottest on) begins to misfire and overheat.
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RE: DL 100 - New Twin on the Block!!
ORIGINAL: badedge540
Hey guys just wanted to let you know Jody at Valleyview hobbies just E.Mailed me and said he found excess sealant used on the welch plug under the metering diaghram came loose and got stuck in the cavity around the high speed needles. and that was my problem with the impossible to tune high speed needles. He then tried it on his motor and worked great. Thanks Robert
Hey guys just wanted to let you know Jody at Valleyview hobbies just E.Mailed me and said he found excess sealant used on the welch plug under the metering diaghram came loose and got stuck in the cavity around the high speed needles. and that was my problem with the impossible to tune high speed needles. He then tried it on his motor and worked great. Thanks Robert
This happened to several of the Version 1 DL50's. With the right equipment, you can fix it... however, I suggest calling the distributor and get a new carb. We contacted the factory, and got a new one for my buddies DL50..
#357
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RE: DL 100 - New Twin on the Block!!
I just purchased this engine for my H9 35% Extra 260 and I am looking to further deepen the $ spent on my addiction...I mean hobby with spinner and prop.
Any recommendations to the size spinner and a 3-blade prop for this beast?
Thanks!
Any recommendations to the size spinner and a 3-blade prop for this beast?
Thanks!
#358
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RE: DL 100 - New Twin on the Block!!
ORIGINAL: Tired Old Man
sniperpilot,
The plug pictures you presented are quite interesting. Without having them in my hand it appears that you are experiencing the effects of contaminated fuel. I don't believe the engine is at fault here, but I do believe that your local source of fuel has water or some other contaminants in the storage tanks.
Next time you buy gas use a clean container devoid of any previous oil. Locate a sealable glass container like a quart mason jar with lid. Put about 1/4" of water in the bottom of the mason jar and use a marker to make a line at that point on the outside of the jar. Shake up the gas can to mix any contaminants in the gas. Now fill the mason jar and seal it up. Let it stand for awhile. Check back to see if the water level in the jar is at a higher level than it was.
If so you will know that you will need to separate the gas from the contaminants. No one way is better than another unless you have a large container that has a drainable sump at the bottom. Few do. Otherwise you'll need to be able to see the water in the gas to separate it. Requires a larger glass container....
sniperpilot,
The plug pictures you presented are quite interesting. Without having them in my hand it appears that you are experiencing the effects of contaminated fuel. I don't believe the engine is at fault here, but I do believe that your local source of fuel has water or some other contaminants in the storage tanks.
Next time you buy gas use a clean container devoid of any previous oil. Locate a sealable glass container like a quart mason jar with lid. Put about 1/4" of water in the bottom of the mason jar and use a marker to make a line at that point on the outside of the jar. Shake up the gas can to mix any contaminants in the gas. Now fill the mason jar and seal it up. Let it stand for awhile. Check back to see if the water level in the jar is at a higher level than it was.
If so you will know that you will need to separate the gas from the contaminants. No one way is better than another unless you have a large container that has a drainable sump at the bottom. Few do. Otherwise you'll need to be able to see the water in the gas to separate it. Requires a larger glass container....
I just buy my gas from a gas station that has a pretty high traffic volume. This means that they are getting fresh fuel more often. Pretty much guaranteed of getting reasonably good fuel from there. Also, if you live in an area where you don't get to fly through winter, throw out any gas that has sat around. It's a potential problem . . and at the least, loses it's ability to provide maximum performance . .
Cheers, JB
#360
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RE: DL 100 - New Twin on the Block!!
I think that isnt the same, because the dl100 carby has the pulse pickup inside the carburetor/insulator, and the rcgf has it outside via gas tubing to a nipple in the motor case.
Thank you for the comment
Thank you for the comment
#361
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RE: DL 100 - New Twin on the Block!!
Good point.
Something to ponder is that the RCGF Emas carb also has the pulse ports on the inside base of the carb. There are blocked off by the gasket, meaning that changing the outer cover plate between the two carbs should take care of the difference between the two carbs. At the price you wouldn't get hurt to make the attempt.
Something to ponder is that the RCGF Emas carb also has the pulse ports on the inside base of the carb. There are blocked off by the gasket, meaning that changing the outer cover plate between the two carbs should take care of the difference between the two carbs. At the price you wouldn't get hurt to make the attempt.
#363
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RE: DL 100 - New Twin on the Block!!
ORIGINAL: gen3v8
I have just purchased a dl100, unrun at this stage, to put in my new W/H SU26 35%.
Hope there is going to be no major issues. They both look magic
I have just purchased a dl100, unrun at this stage, to put in my new W/H SU26 35%.
Hope there is going to be no major issues. They both look magic
TF
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RE: DL 100 - New Twin on the Block!!
ORIGINAL: GAS4ever
Hello folks, sorry for my english, ill try my best. Im so frustrated with this dl
I have my maiden of the dl100 is my 3rd DL engine.
30 mins break in ground uncowled 1:30 pennzoil 2000 rpm
After that i tried to find burbling sound richening the high needle but imposible 3 turns and nothing rpm was 6200 jxf 26x10
Flew 5 litres of mix and the engine begans losening power landed succesfully one cilinder quit working
My experience said me that is possible a dirty carburetor problem but i disasembled it and nothing was found
all flights was at half throttle and burbling sound (richened) except sometimes full throtle to clean up the engine, but shorts periods
Removed the sparks and found this
Can you help me?? i have two sparks more, but i think the problem was other
Hello folks, sorry for my english, ill try my best. Im so frustrated with this dl
I have my maiden of the dl100 is my 3rd DL engine.
30 mins break in ground uncowled 1:30 pennzoil 2000 rpm
After that i tried to find burbling sound richening the high needle but imposible 3 turns and nothing rpm was 6200 jxf 26x10
Flew 5 litres of mix and the engine begans losening power landed succesfully one cilinder quit working
My experience said me that is possible a dirty carburetor problem but i disasembled it and nothing was found
all flights was at half throttle and burbling sound (richened) except sometimes full throtle to clean up the engine, but shorts periods
Removed the sparks and found this
Can you help me?? i have two sparks more, but i think the problem was other
#365
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RE: DL 100 - New Twin on the Block!!
Stop running these things on the ground. Check for leaks, idle, and transition.... run a weedeater at 2,000 for 1/2 hour at a time and you'll see the same results.....
[/quote]
I ran my two dl50s on the ground for a fair while,as per instructions. They became quite fouled untill they were opened up and cleared inflight.
Do you mean to check,leaks,idle,transition and then just fly them?
#366
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RE: DL 100 - New Twin on the Block!!
I have a new dl 100 and I can't get it running. It looks like I am having a fuel draw problem. I open up the carb and it was dry. I blew it out and adjusted the float. Now I get fuel into the carb but into the cylinders. Does anybody out there have any ideas.
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RE: DL 100 - New Twin on the Block!!
Have you primed it? if so does it act like it wants to start up? sometimes they like to start real wet... keep it choked until it fires... If you choke it or hold your finger over the carb inlet it should get wet, if not then you still have a suction problem... Check for air leaks also, They keep the carb from sucking the fuel..
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RE: DL 100 - New Twin on the Block!!
give it a good prime, squirt a little gas into the carb with the choke off... If you try and start it, it should run for a couple seconds, if it stops then yes you have a suction problem... I had an engine that did the same thing. (mines turned out to be that my spark plug cap was not on all the way and the spark was Arcing). You, just have to get the first run in so that everything can open up a little...
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RE: DL 100 - New Twin on the Block!!
I ran into a similar problem.
I took the carb off teh plane and took the cover off the pump side, and removed the two diaphragm elements. I then dumped the carb and all parts into a cup of gasoline (use care, it's very flammable) and let it soak for 2 or 3 minutes.
I then reassembled the carb and reinstalled it. The engine started up in about 3 flips and has run very well ever since.
I think in this particular carb design the fiber part of the pump can dry out, getting it wet with gas remedies the problem.
TF
I took the carb off teh plane and took the cover off the pump side, and removed the two diaphragm elements. I then dumped the carb and all parts into a cup of gasoline (use care, it's very flammable) and let it soak for 2 or 3 minutes.
I then reassembled the carb and reinstalled it. The engine started up in about 3 flips and has run very well ever since.
I think in this particular carb design the fiber part of the pump can dry out, getting it wet with gas remedies the problem.
TF
#375
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RE: DL 100 - New Twin on the Block!!
Ok I took the carb apart and soak it in fuel for about 5 min. Put it all back together and pulled the plugs so I could squirt some fuel into them. It fire off with the fuel in the cylinder and then quit. So I keep flipping and finally it went off. I found that if I flip with the choke on into fuel came dripping out of the carb and then open the choke and turn on the ignition it fired upped. I will fly it tomorrow.
Thanks for all the help
Thanks for all the help