reg price

good luck,my qq yak 73 " is about 12 lbs, so may have get 40 cc unit.

Wingwrecker

I'm thinking that the 40cc would be a perfect match. Balancing might be tricky, I dunno.


Edwin, looking forward to your report! Have you run it yet?

reg price

will try with 26 cc unit monday i hope,see what happens,if can,t prop hang,will go with 44 cc unit

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Oh yeah!!! I've run it several times. Got about 30 minutes on the engine. Hand starts easily now. The first and second time I had problems with setup and high resistance through the ignition power switch. After all that, everythings good now. I was sure it was a bad ignition module but Jodi was real helpful and quick to respond. Sometimes all you need is a sounding board to bounce ideas off of and get alternatives. It starts exactly as the instructions state for starting. Its easy to flood, that was one of my issues. My G62 loves to be dripping wet to start. I'm waiting for crrc to come out with a real carb 40cc. Would love to see that.
Edwin

Wingwrecker

I found a vid of the Crrc 50cc pulling about 26 lbs of thrust at 6900 rpm on a 22x8 I think it was.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzMo58LKcfc[/youtube]

I would guesstimate the 40cc at anywhere between 19 and 21 lbs depending on the prop?

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

I measured a US41 at about 17lbs on an 18x10. I'm running a 20x10. I'll start there and change as I see fit.
Edwin

hamman

My Feedback: (61)

I checked mine today using a scale like in the 50cc video on a concrete pad in front of my garage with the plane level... I got a little less then 16lbs using a Zoar 20x8 prop @ 6700 RPM... I also tried a 20x10 Zoar and got about the same thrust but at 6200 RPM...I also tried an MSC 20x8 and a BCM 3D 20x8 and they were down a little from the Zoar...Maybe a Vess or the prop Valley View sells would be better...Hamman

ROCKY1405

My Feedback: (6)

Today I disassembled my motor and found that the rear plate disc was not fitting down into the slot in the bottom case tightly. This allowed the rear bearing to have slop in it and also allowed the air leak between the bottom and main crankcase. I used a thin disc on my Dremel to remove enough material from the high on the sides of the slot areas so the disc seated completely. I did not have to remove very much material to get it to fit right. I then applied magic marker to both of the mating surfaces of the cases and then ran them back and forth on a surface plate and some 220 grit sandpaper. The ink showed a slight mis-match on a couple of areas so I sanded the pieces until all the ink was gone and the surfaces mated up as perfect as I can get them. There really was not much of a mis-match but whatever there was I reduced it a great deal and the cases look like they are fitting together really tightly now. There also is no slop in the rear bearing now either. Hopefully it will stay that way once the engine runs and gets hot. Hamman helped me understand what to look for and I'm very grateful for the help! As soon as the weather permits I'll take the engine to our flying field and see if I can have better luck with it now. Report to follow.
Thanks!
Rocky [8D]

MetallicaJunkie

how does the 40cc compare to the power a 1.60 fx? considering it will be about a pound heavier with ignition and battery....... i have a 1/4 scale Edge that currently has a 120ax it needs more power ....

Wingwrecker

For aerobatics on the 1.60, OS recommends nothing larger than a 16.5" prop. On the 40cc many are running 20x8 at over 7400 rpm. I'd say that's more power. But I'm new to gas so I could be wrong? Don't forget that you can also say goodbye to slime.

ROCKY1405

My Feedback: (6)

Today between rain showers I got the motor out to the field and test ran it. It started on the third flip every time and ran really strong. That thing will blow your hat off for sure! I ran it for 10 minutes at about 1/2 throttle after I got it dialed in so it wasn't 4-stroking and then stopped it and checked to be sure there were no leaks anyplace and there weren't any loose pieces. All was well so I fired it back up and ran it another 12 minutes at a little over 1/2 throttle until it ran the rest of the 16 ounce tank out. I let it cool off and then peaked it at full throttle on the next tankful and then backed the high speed out a little until it was just short of 4-stroking. I couldn't tach it because my tachometer battery died just after I turned it on. [:@] It ran really sweetly for the next 15 minutes as I varied the throttle settings. It then started to act like it was leaking air someplace again because it had 'rough" spots like the carb wasn't set right so I shut it down and felt around on it. The cases were tight with no leaks anyplace but once again, I could feel a very little bit of slop in the rear bearing after that second engine run and this time when I ran my finger over the rear back-plate or disc I could now feel it was very warm. Not too hot to hold my finger on it but it was not cool like it was after the first tankful had ran through it. Sooo, I'm thinking this means I should be removing a couple more thousands off the bottom cover and possibly off that disc too. Anybody with any thoughts on the matter, I'd appreciate hearing them before I do any more work on it. Also, if anybody has 130 bucks they want to send me I'll box the motor up and send it to them via US Mail ANYWHERE IN THE U.S.A. [&o]

Gunner

My Feedback: (4)

Here is the postmortem of the failed sensor on the CRRC40. At least it happend on the ground not in the air. New sensor had different type of wire. A little stronger maybe. Engine running well again. Now just waiting for a break in the weather.

hamman

My Feedback: (61)

Rocky,
I would take a bit more off the bottom cover, just a little then use a little hi-temp lock tite on the bearings and give that a try. You may be a little on the rich side, warm it up and peak the hi speed needle then richen it until it drops 100 to 200 RPM. Adjust low speed for best transition, recheck the hi speed setting and if it seems to run reliable its best to get it in the air and fly it, it will run cooler that way. Your almost there, Dont give up now! Larry

ROCKY1405

My Feedback: (6)

Hamman, that's what I plan on doin'.
Thanks!
Rocky [8D]

ROCKY1405

My Feedback: (6)

Yesterday, I finished removing another .004 off the bottom case, cleaning everything and re-assembling the motor after lightly sanding both ball bearings so high-temp (red) Lock-Tite would have something to hold onto. After the initial approximately 70 minutes of running I found bearing slop in what I thought was the rear bearing but I upon close examination I saw striation marks on the front bearing indicating that one was doing some spinning. I also buffed up the rear back-plate disc a little and then made sure the slot it fits into was deep enough so the disc not is fully seated in both cases. The only way to get it deeper would be to modify the cases or the disc and I don't see how you can hold onto the disc to do any machining on the it because there is no way I could hold in in my R&D lathe. I did manage to buff off about a half a thousand off the I.D. of it with patience and sandpaper. Feeling very optimistic I headed back to the field for another test run and gave it a try. I got it wet and couldn't even get a "pop" out of it. [:@]I tried a different plug and same deal, deader than a mackere,l so I took it home to the shop and tested the CDI. The CDI sparks a plug just fine when you run a magnet close to the sensor. [:@] The sensor has now been off and on this engine four times and the plastic on it around the mounting holes is crumbling and I think the problem with no fire on this occasion was that the sensor had moved away from the prop shaft far enough so it isn't getting the message to fire. That's the only thing I can think of that would keep it from firing. Yes, there is a magnet in the prop shaft! So, this morning I emailed Jim of Agape Racing and told him about the sensor disintegrating around the mounting holes. I don't know what kind of plastic it is but it is simply falling apart where the machine bolts go through it. Has anybody else had this problem or did I just get a bad sensor? Also, is there a better sensor out there that a guy can buy aftermarket? Suggestions would be appreciated. I'd love to see this engine running good enough to put into a model.
Thanks!
Rocky []

Wingwrecker

That truly sucks. I hope I don't run into any problems with mine.

Wingwrecker

Another question before I mount this engine and fire it up. The only two props I have at my disposal this moment are Zingers. A 20x6-10 and a 20x8-14. Oh wait, I also have a Xoar 18x8. What prop would you guys reccomend for break in? Does it matter or am I good as long as I keep rpms in check (under 6500?)

cantw8tofly

My Feedback: (3)

Hey guys... I am really sorry to hear about all the trouble you are having with the engine. I have one in a 25% edge 540 that weighs about 14.5 lbs. I have not had any trouble with mine as far as workmanship or integrety of the engine. I did have some trouble when the cowl rubbed a hole in the spark plug wire but that was my own mistake.


I have had several props on it and mine best performs with an 18x8.....I have tried an 18x10,20x8 and a 20x6-10


It starts fine but does require some extra effort when it is cold but after that it starts with a couple flips. I have cut my airhorn down about half way to allow it to fit in the cowl and i also have the carb mounted 180 from what the istructions said to.This was to aid in throttle linkage placement and has no adverse effect on its performance.



The only problems that i can see with the crrc 40 cc is that the muffler is just retarded... I had to really butcher my cowl to get it in there. Also the motor mount is not a good design for this size of engine. I had to build some stand offs to get the distance i needed to match the cowl and now my engine wiggles around alitlle bit to much so i have decided to remove the standoffs and build some kind of box on my firewall to mount the engine to.


I also purchase mine from AGAPE Racing and Hobby with very good customer service.

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Wingwrecker, you will not have any of these issues, I built and ran your engine, it's perfect.

Rocky, I'm not sure how to say this, I don't want to offend you, but your problems are why we don't sell these engines as kits. As far as gas engines go, these are as simple as they get, problems with any piece of the kit should be very easy to see or find with pre assembly inspections and test fitting. There have been problems with a few parts of these kits that have been corrected over time and it sounds like you got one of the kits that may have been affected. But again, an easy problem to notice and solve before final assembly. I would like to extend an offer of help to you, if you would send me your engine as it is with ignition module and sensor, I will repair it and make it purr for you for the cost of return freight, period. I like these little engines, they don't deserve a bad rap, they run excellent.

Cantw8, There is also a wrap around Pitts style muffler available for this engine, may have saved some of your cowl. There are also mich higher end and more powerful engines that use the exact same beam mounting system, nothing wrong with it at all. Your engine wiggles because your bolts have loosened up, nothing to do with the beam mounts could have changed since you installed them unless they have broken. Wood firewalls can compress quite easily under the load of engine mounting bolts and vibration. Long engine mounting bolts will make the problem worse. If you use stand offs keep them as short as possible and with a foot print of about 3/4". If the stand offs are 1-1/2" or longer, use ones that bolt from both ends, not just a hole in them for a long bolt to pass all the way through.

Wingwrecker

Jody, thanks for the reassurance. It is much appreciated.

Rocky! Take him up on that offer!!! Even if it means a couple of weeks of downtime it is well worth it... Wow, that is very commendable.

I have been eyeing the Aeroworks 50cc Yak for some time now and though AW are local to me I am sure to get it from VVRC now.. GREAT service. Not to mention that it's cheaper for me to buy it from VVRC with an engine combo and free shipping than it is for me to buy it locally from AW and pay tax!

Jody, does the prop choice matter during break in? Glow engines are specific on prop size during the initial break in bu does it matter for gas or should I just use the prop I intend to fly?

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

You can use the prop you intend to fly with from day one, there is no need for a "break in prop" on any gas engine. Tune it for peak and fly. Make sure you have good cooling, overheating is the worst thing you can do during break in. That's the best deal around on a 50cc combo and a sweet one at that!

Wingwrecker

Thanks again for the flow of info. I intend to break in without a cowl and for the first 2 or 3 flights as well.

And yes, that is a great deal on the Aeroworks Yak and DLE-55. I have a line on a NIB CRRC 50 for $270 locally and your deal still beats what it would cost me to buy the AW Yak locally and that CRRC by about $15!

Do you have the Red/White trim scheme of the AW Yak?

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Oh, forgot to mention, we're using the JXF/Xoar 20x8. The engine seems to like that one a lot, the 18x8 works well too, turns it up to around 7000 which is fine, I would put the red line at 7500 not 6500. The 6500 number was intended for break in but ignore it and use 7500 instead.

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

If you mean the red and white with the black stripe, I'm pretty sure we do but call Tom at his number on the site to make sure, it's seems to pretty popular right now.

Wingwrecker

Ok now Im confused..

Firstly, is JXF and Xoar the same prop?

And are you saying that as far as initial break in, up to 7500 rpm is fine? Or do you mean after break in? I realize initial break in is done at low rpms but once I'm past that, then I can prop for up to 7500?

What peak rpm are you getting out of the Xoar 20x8?