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CRRC 40cc kit

Old 04-12-2010, 01:00 PM
  #651  
worldmodelsmach1
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

Ive had some one at my club with an old 43 cc engine who drilled a hole through the end of his muffler and used the hole to match that in a weedwacker muffler that he bolted on to it and it actually seemed alot quieter. Also, I cant seem to find any Xoar props or other props in the 19-8 size.... Thanks for the help so far.

-Chris
Old 04-12-2010, 01:12 PM
  #652  
hamman
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

I made a few posts early in this thread, Jody recomended 20x8 props which I ran on both mine. They turn a Zoar 20x8 and a 20 inch vess 6800 or so. This engine loves to run at that RPM and will help keep the noise down a little. Hamman
Old 04-12-2010, 07:33 PM
  #653  
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

I've tried both the 18X8 and the 20X8 on mine and I think the 20X8 works the best so far. The engine seems a bit happier with it than it does with the smaller one and with the smaller prop I was getting tach reading at wide open in the 7800 + rpm range and that felt a bit too high.
Old 04-13-2010, 07:33 PM
  #654  
tryan02
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

I am running the Xoar 18 x 8 and getting 7600rpm flies through the air really nice and noisy on my seagull extra 260 180 noise is not a problem for me fortunately(sorry to brag fellows but the sound to me is awesome). I did a little adjusting on my timing to get a dead nuts 28º and found my plug to be mucked up. Cleaned the plug with a wire wheel checked gap to be .023 engine fired on the second pop. and has great throttle response I was not gaining anything from 3/4 to full stick before all this. Will fly it tomorrow cause the air is where it all matters. I cant give up on this motor cause I love the power it gives my plane.
Old 04-14-2010, 06:04 PM
  #655  
Danh4
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

I'm wondering if you guys can help me with a problem I'm having with my CRRC 40. I bought it assembled from Valley View RC and I currently have a Xoar 18x8 on it. The problem is that I cannot get it to idle. My tach isn't working but I'd guess the lowest rpm it will remain running is around 3000-4000 rpm, too high to taxi or try to land. I started with the recommended low needle setting and went in both directions with no improvement. I should tell you that I pulled the throttle arm out of the carb and flipped it around so that my throttle connection is where I want it but I was very careful to get the butterfly back on correctly. There is a small notch in the edge of the butterfly that fits around a small orifice when the throttle is closed, I assume that it is part of the low speed circuit? I've pulled the low speed needle out and squirted gas through it with a syringe to make sure all the passages are clear, I had gas coming out of all 3 orifices in the venturi. The engine runs great at full throttle and has a nice transition to and from it's "idle." I've watched videos of these engines on YouTube and they all tick over very nicely right out of the box it seems. I'm at a loss for what to try next, any ideas?

Dan
Old 04-14-2010, 06:24 PM
  #656  
WildeOne
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

Did it idle OK before you switched the throttle shaft around?
Old 04-14-2010, 06:34 PM
  #657  
Danh4
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

I never ran it before switching it. I've thought about putting it back to the way it came but when I look at it I can't see what difference it would make, the butterfly opens and closes the way it should, that notch lines up with the orifice, things look right to me!
Old 04-14-2010, 06:36 PM
  #658  
WildeOne
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

The reason I asked is that I think Valley View runs all the 40CC's they assemble prior to shipping and it's unlikely it wouldn't idle right when you got it. I would try putting it back the way you got it and testing again.
Old 04-14-2010, 06:44 PM
  #659  
Danh4
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

Good point, I suppose I'll need to switch it back to its original configuration just to eliminate the possibility. That will be what I try next.

Thanks! -Dan
Old 04-14-2010, 06:51 PM
  #660  
saintcreed
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

Put it back like it was...and to change the position of the throttle arm..unbolt the carb and turn the whole carb 180 degree's...tighten the bolts and your good to go.....the only bad thing with this is the adjustment screws are way to close to the prop to make any adjustments with the engine running...but once they have been run long enough to warm up..they are easily started again after any adjustments have to be made...one or two flips is all mine take...I own two of these and for the money you can not beat them...turning and Xoar 20x8 prop at 6540 rpms with 19lbs 10 oz. of static thrust reading of a digital fish scale....40-1 mix using Belray synthetic
Old 04-14-2010, 07:02 PM
  #661  
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

Did you remove the return spring? Cuz I think it needs that.
Does the butterfly open in the same direction as it did before, with the throttle pushing rather than pulling?
How's the capacity of your batteries?


Rod S
Old 04-14-2010, 09:26 PM
  #662  
Danh4
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

Getting the screws away from the prop and up where I could get to them while the engine is running is why I swapped things around. Mine hasn't been hard to restart, just have to re-prime it every time and it starts after a few flips, so shutting it down to tweak the needles won't be too bad I guess.
Old 04-14-2010, 09:30 PM
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Danh4
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

The spring is unhooked but still in place to eliminate play in the shaft.

Butterfly still opens in the same direction, servo pushes to open, pulls to close the throttle.

Battery is a new 1400mAh Ni-Cad.
Old 04-14-2010, 10:11 PM
  #664  
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

I do run all the 40s I put together, and I can guarantee that it idled at 1600-1700 when I got done. You definitely have an air leak some place. Some good pictures may allow me to see what the problem is, take them before and afteryou remove the carb. Unrelated to the running problem, you will get much better performance with a larger prop.
Old 04-14-2010, 10:21 PM
  #665  
Danh4
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

Jody,

I can certainly take some photos tomorrow after work. I'll shoot the mounted carb from top and bottom and then the carb itself after I take it off. Anything else you'd need to see?

Thanks!

Dan
Old 04-14-2010, 10:35 PM
  #666  
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

That should do it but I just went and looked at a carb and confirmed my suspicions. I don't see how you could swap the throttle shaft around and get it to work properly as it is not symmetrical. one side is longer from the throttle valve flat to the end than the other. This would cause the spring to pull the throttle valve to one side making it bind up on the inside of the carb body.
Old 04-15-2010, 05:47 AM
  #667  
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

I ran into that problem but a couple of washers under the e-clip on the long end of the shaft took care of that. It opens and closes with no binding or friction at all. I'll post some photos here tonight. Thanks also for the tip about the larger prop, I'm planning to get a 20x8 since that seems to be what a lot of guys here are using.
Old 04-15-2010, 05:13 PM
  #668  
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

Jody,

Here's a few photos of the carb, hopefully they'll tell you something!

Dan

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Old 04-15-2010, 06:03 PM
  #669  
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

I think I've found the problem. Looking at some other carbs (that I've never had apart!) I noticed that the throttle butterfly should angle in the other direction when closed. I was thinking that the notch in the edge of the butterfly had to correspond with the orifice that it lines up with but now it makes more sense that that notch is a little upstream from that orifice so that some air blows over it. I can't wait to get it back on the engine and try it, I'm sure this was the problem- all my fault too!

Here's how it should look...
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Old 04-15-2010, 07:22 PM
  #670  
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

BINGO!
Old 04-18-2010, 03:55 PM
  #671  
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

Anyone had the braid on the stock ignition plug wire get cut and get glitches even on 2.4GHZ???

I saw my cowl was rubbing so I used a spiral wrap over the cable but later saw it was still missing half the shielding near the end of the plug. I have been getting short flutters in my servos ailerons jiggle on there own and today its moved into elevator will bob up and down. But seems to only do it at full throttle. Where the ignition I believe is working its hardest around 7600-7800RPM.

I have just this afternoon cut the plug wire back about a 1/2" and reassembled it. I pushed the braid back and cut the inner conductor back farther so the braid actually covers the tip of the boot going deep into the plug can. Wrapped it with electrical tape and then put the spiral cover back over all of that.

Oh and I placed my RX another 6" back just because I could.

Unfortunately I wont get the chance to see if it's fixed till Wednesday.
Old 04-18-2010, 08:08 PM
  #672  
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

Luckily I haven't had a glitch on 2.4, but this is something to look for. I hope this solves your problem.

RS
Old 04-18-2010, 08:19 PM
  #673  
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit


ORIGINAL: worldmodelsmach1

Please anyone, not to be rude, but your my last link with this engine because no one at my club has even heard about it. I am looking for a way to get cans or a silenced muffler so that I can be under my field's 98db noise limit to fly my extra 260... Any hints suggested. (im at 99 decibels with the stock muffler swinging a zwinger 18-6-10 at half throttle)
You could stuff some Chor boy scrub pad up the exhaust pipe. Add a wire throught the pipe above and below to keep it in place. You will loose some power but it will get very quiet.
Old 04-19-2010, 12:32 PM
  #674  
worldmodelsmach1
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

Thanks will try that.

-Chris
Old 04-19-2010, 09:29 PM
  #675  
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

I'm still trying to get my engine to perform satisfactorily and have made some headway. Yesterday I took the carb off and put it on a glass plate and found the manifold side of it had a little "wave" in it. I suspected a slight air leak because I could not get it to idle reliably. I colored the carb with a magic marker and then rubbed it on some sandpaper on the glass plate until it was flat and all the marker was gone. The other side was Ok and laid flat on the glass. I then pulled the carb apart and bent the needle activator arm down by .007 of an inch. I did that because the motor runs rich -(tends to break up or run a little like its burbling) -when its in the air and is unloaded like at the bottom of a loop. When I go vertical with the model at full throttle - the minute it is pulling hard the motor smooths right out and runs great - the way I want it to all the time when its in the air. I figured it might be pumping too much fuel and so reduced the arm movement that .007 of an inch. I measured it with my dial indicator so I know that is an accurate measurement and I didn't want to go too far since I don't have a Walbro gauge for setting that arm. I then changed the timing so it fires at 30 degrees instead of the 28 I had it set at as per RcXel instructions. I did those things from info I got on tuning Walbro carbs. When I got to the field it still would "break up" when unloaded but the idle was reliable and it would start and run reliably so I figured I was on the right track. A pal of mine came to the field and suggested I change the plug and run his fuel which was mixed at 80:1 Ammzoil. My fuel was 50:1 regular 2 stroke oil. I did that and the next flight the engine ran perfectly - I was a happy camper until the next flight when the problem was right back like before. [:@] So, while I'm on the right track with it now I can't understand why it cleaned up and ran great for that one flight. I flew it several more times and did some more tweaking of the needles and its ALMOST right but not quite. The plug is grey/black. I figure next time out I'll try another new plug and run the 80:1 again and see how that goes. Reading the above info, does anybody have any suggestions as to what to try next? The drill to start it now is to choke it with full throttle until it snorts and then take the choke off and set the throttle at about 1/4th and it will start right up and run rough for about 30 seconds and then cleans up and runs clean.

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