stangevil29

My Feedback: (1)

Quick ? for you all as this is my first gasser. I just recieved my 26cc about 1 hour ago and can't wait to get it mounted and try it out. I was looking it all over like a kid in the candy store and getting excited until I was checking out the plug boot for the ignition system. The two halves appear to pressed together and are supposed to be kept together with two little tabs. Is this correct? Because the two tabs are in between the two halves and the white insulator inside is clearly visible. When looking into the boot it looks like some sort of element(I'm Guessing) is in there but it looks to be sideways. Is this the way it should be or not? I am just curious to know before I take it to show and tell night at the club meeting.Thanks.
Stangevil29

stangevil29

My Feedback: (1)

Something else I just noticed is that the carb on this engine is situated that the needles are horizantal and going out from the side of the engine rather than vertical(towards the top of the cylinder) as in the manual. Is this a change since the manual was printed?
Stangevil29

aussiesteve

The Carbs can be rotated.
The factory used to mount them with the needles vertical but most people preferred them to be mounted 9 degrees to that for ease of accessing the needles. Now they mount them 90 degrees different.

You can turn the carb 90 degrees, make sure the pulse hole in the carb mounting block is lined up with the hole in the carb and be careful about overtightening the carb mounting bolts (It can distort the carb). I use some Permatex sealer on the faces (be careful about blocking the pulse hole) with the sealer

stangevil29

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks aussiesteve. If its fine to run it with the carb in this position I would prefer it for the exact reason use stated. Easy access to the needles. How about the plug boot on the ignition? (Post 3248)Any advice on that would be great.
Stangevil29

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

There should be a wire split ring that goes around the bottom of the plug boot to keep it together. Now I see your picture you just need to slip the tabs over the opposite peice and put on the clip.

stangevil29

My Feedback: (1)

Yes the ring is there and in place but, I was concerned about the sides of the case itself not being covered. I dont know if its as easy as removing the ring and trying to get the tabs in the right position adn just replace the ring or not. This is the first time I have even looked at an ignition for a gasser. If it will operate just fine like it is great. If not then I dont want to void the warranty by trying to fix it myself.
Stangevil29

P.S. Daddysam, how about you all let the Vandal's win this year?

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

It is as easy as removing the ring and slipping the tabs to the correct position. You might also just be able to use a thin blade screwdriver to pry the overlapping tab from inside the gap to the outside. I did that with the one in the photo!
Sam

VeeAte

What NGK plugs do you guys run in your RCGF 26cc engines?

This one had a Torch plug in it which had the part number L7RTC. In the NGK book where I used to work this crosses over to a BPMR7F. I should have checked before I went and got plugs cause I ended up with BPMR6A. I reads that out of the instruction manual, but it must be for a different model.
That NGK plug doesnt have the washer and also has a smaller head on it. As well as a shorter reach.



Still cant get this engine to do any more than cough and then die. Ah well. I am sure its something simple.

Guess I will have to yank the engine off it and pull the carb down and see if there is any grit in it. Or richen the LSN first to see if it changes anything.

Probably should have left the idle set screw in place as well until I had it running off the servo.

VeeAte

Well I got to run the RCGF in

The problem was one which in hindsight was pretty dangerous. I had the throttle hooked up backwards. So the whole time I was trying to start it on full throttle [X(]
Luckily I tether my planes to the fence when I start them at home. [&:]

I mucked around and ended up putting the throttle around half way cause I thought I wasnt getting fuel to the carb. It fired up and scared the bejesus out of me!
So I shut it off and reversed the servo and now its all good
Ran the engine in roughly like the manual. The only thing I did different was to run it at 2,500rpm for a couple of minutes then run it up to around 3,500-4,000rpm for a few seconds then back down to idle. Used to do this with my Kart engines and never had an issue. Not sure how true it was but was always told that running a new engine in at idle or even a constant rpm can cause hassles with glazing the bore. Nowdays it probably isnt an issue with newer metals etc.
Hope it hasnt done damage. Can't see it being an issue.

After the 25-30 odd minutes (full tank) I set the top and bottom end so they were smooth, but on the rich side. Ended up with 7,650 on the top with a 16x8 Hawk wood prop. Idle I got down to around 2,300rpm, but it was starting to load up a little bit after a while idleing. So I bumped it back up to 2,500rpm.

What sort of idle and top rpm should I be seeing with this combo on a fresh engine?
The 26 is one of the older style ones with the 14mm plug. Am told they arent as powerful as the new ones?

And does anyone know how to work out what speed I should be doing with those rpm and that pitch prop?
Drag would come into it I guess and the fact that there is some slip of the prop.

Thanks for your help so far everyone. Greatly appreciated. [sm=thumbup.gif]

I am sure I will have more questions as I go.

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

I'm seeing 8000 rpm with a Xoar 17-6 so I would think you should be about that. I got my idle down to about 1800 after four tanks of fuel. It will probably go lower but I'm looking for reliability right now, and the Xoar is not a heavy prop. Considering how we "torture" our weedeater engines I don't think you could have done anything to damage your engine as long as you're running a good gas/oil mix.
Sam

karolh

From all indications your engine seems to be running quite rich which is not good for a gas engine, as your max rpm should be higher. The NGK plug you have is correct, and with the 16x8 prop at your stated rpm and assuming that you are at sea level you can figure on approx. 11.5 lbs of thrust and a speed of about 50 mph.

Karol

VeeAte

Ok cool.
Thanks for the info DS.

I have the HSN set so if I set it any richer it wont run full revs. Bogs down with too much fuel.

Didnt want to go too lean.

I take it you guys set the HSN etc with the engine running?

Also was wondering how many gallons of fuel you guys run through them before switching over to full synthetic?

VeeAte

Thanks Karolh. I will tune the HSN tomorrow. I wasnt running it long at full revs. Just a quick blat to get a reading then back off.

arobatx

Don't tune it like a glow engine. Find peak RPM and back off 100rpm is all. Very hard to hear 100rpm, use a tach. Running rich will prevent you from breaking in the engine correctly, as it won't heat cycle properly.

VeeAte

I didn't think with a gas engine you had to heat treat them?

Thought that was only tapered bore engines.

Ok cool I will set it with the tach tomorrow.

karolh

I do believe that your 26cc is not yet awake as my G20 with an aftermarket muffler spins a Xoar 17x6 at 8,200 rpm at 3000' ASL .

Karol

fhm555

Speaking of head temps, what would be considered a normal head temp on the 26?

karolh

Sorry but I can't help you on this, but hopefully someone knowledgable in this area this will chime in. I will however share something that I was told recently regarding engine temps, and that is if your engine ever begins to sag or slow down while at high rpm it's already TOO HOT. You could also try doing a 'search' as it might turn up something.

Karol

VeeAte

OK here's a silly question.....

I am guessing I need a seperate charge jack for my Ignition pack seeing as I have an opto-kill ignition switch ?

I have an EMS switch with a charge jack built in currently plugged into the ignition system.

stangevil29

My Feedback: (1)

I recall somewhere in the thread that the mounting template on ZRCGF for the 26cc was incorrect. Is the current one on the site updated.
Stangevil29

Piston

My Feedback: (1)

The template for the 20cc and the 26cc have been updated....

Henry

stangevil29

My Feedback: (1)

Piston, Will this void my warranty if I attempt to fix this (post 3253 right out of the box) myself? It looks as if the ring could be popped off easily enough as Daddysam stated but, those little tabs look pretty easy to pop off escpecially if I go and try to pry them. Thanks in advance.Stangevil29

VeeAte

Slide the ring up towards the lead end of the plug and pop it off.
The two halves of the metal casing should then be easy to gently pull apart to bend the tab.

You may void the warranty, but I doubt they would notice you have done it. I wouldnt spend the money sending it back in for them to do exactly the same thing  and send it right back.

Mr.FiberOptic

stangevil29, i also notice that the brass tube next to your needle valves is flattened??

stangevil29

My Feedback: (1)

Once again, I wouldnt know if this correct or not since this is the first gasser I have ever even touched. Did yours have this? I also noticed that I may have to install a retract servo to open and close the choke on this thing. It is way hard to open and close for a servo anyway. It almost snaps open after a certain amount of torque is applied.
Stangevil29