Captmicom

Hi Jeremy,

Nope you have the newest one.. I was thinking 6 and typed 8... Thanks for the clarification..

prigai

RCGF engines are not bad at all, in fact they are amongst the better Chinese engines.
RCGF however misrepresent the capacity of their engines, I have 2 x RCGF 32cc with a Bore of 38mm and Stroke of 30mm which makes them 34.04cc.
I also have 2 x RCGF 20cc Beam Mount (rear carb), the stated Bore (32mm) and Stroke (26mm) are in fact 32mm and 28mm (measured) which makes them 22.53cc.
The result of this is that the RCGF 20 Beam Mount should turn bigger props and probably will not turn smaller props as fast as a DLE20.

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

Okay, so a little more about it. This is my 3rd gas engine so far (I've only been in the hobby a couple years) and has been the most pleasant. I started flying gas with a DLE20. No complaints on it. I've rebuilt it once, and torn it completely down for cleaning and inspecting another time. It's survived two nose first crashes. I'm going to be putting a Bowman ring in it because it's compression is getting low now. Anyway, my second gas engine was the new RCGF 26cc beam mount. Awesome little motor. It's only a true 23.6cc engine, but it has tons of power and torque. I think it's due to the use of two piston rings. So much more compression than the DLE. The only downside is that they have a lot more vibration. The RCGF 26 and DLE20 took about the same tuning to get them dialed in. About 5 flights.

All I did with the 60 was richen the low needle 1/8th turn and went flying. Normally I do a little more ground tuning, but she was pulling so hard that my buddy said it hurt the back of his legs to restrain the plane. I'm just not big on running a large gas airplane wide open on the ground (a .60 sized glow motor is different). I don't really care about prop numbers. I care about how it sounds and performs in the air. I couldn't believe that with almost no tuning, this engine didn't pop or sputter, didn't lose any rpm going vertical and idles great.

I took the smoke system out a couple days ago. I may put smoke back on it later, but I'm going to enjoy it being light weight and agile for now. I did one flight without filling the 25oz smoke oil tank and WOW, it literally seemed to go vertical as fast as it did straight and level. I'm curious to see how it does without the smoke pump and extra battery. I pulled the system out because I hate the plane being soaked in oil afterward. The pump was wet (mounted to the bottom on the engine box), so i took it apart to find it was wet inside too. It must be leaking somewhere. When I go back to smoke I'm going to ditch the Sullivan Skywriter and try out the Miracle pump. I'm also going to get one of those silicone stinger extensions for the muffler. While the length of the muffler has a nice clean look and works fine normally, it's a little short for use with smoke. That is unless you don't mind your plane dripping with oil.

Ill try and get my wife out to get some video on a day with some sun. She does a pretty good job.

Cheers,
Jeremy

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

I finally got around to replacing the DA-50 decals with the decals that came with the engine. I wish they had some better stickers. The gold retro stickers are okay, but the big oval is a horribly cheap looking thing. I guess I could find someone who makes custom stickers. They are damn pricey though.

prigai

If you believe RCGF (you shouldn't) than the 26cc Beam Mount of 34mm bore x 28.6mm stroke is 25.98cc.
I think RCGF just retrofitted a 34mm piston to the 20 BM to take it from around 23cc to 26cc.
Either way both are good engines and should happily turn a 16x8 to 17x8 props.

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

I don't really understand what you were meaning to say about the engine sizes. They state 34mm x 26mm for the 26cc engine, which is actually 23.6cc. The 20cc engine is technically 19.3cc (RCGF shows 32mm x 24mm). For decades, engine makers of all kinds have rounded off the numbers of their engines to an even number. I understand that. However, It is kind of a stretch to call a 23.6cc engine a 26. I think its got the power of a 26, but I think it should have been labeled as a 23.

It was a perfect engine for what I needed it for. I wanted a little more punch than the DLE20 has for a 67" Edge 540. The 26cc BM was actually a little more (ok, a lot more) than it really needed, but it was a ton of fun! I flew it a couple times with a Xoar 17x6, then went to a Redwing 18x6 3D. A 18x6 or 18x8 is what I recommend for the 26cc BM.

prigai

What I mean is that RCGF does not give you the correct parameters in the calculation. The 20cc Beam Mount (not the newer SBM) was sold as 32mm Bore and 26mm Stroke, when I measured the piston diameter it was in fact 32mm but the stroke was not 26mm, it was around 28mm or 28.5mm which makes the 20cc BM between 22.5cc - 23cc.
If in fact the new RCGF 26cc is 34x28.6 (as advertised) then it is 25.98cc but do yourself a favour and actually measure it, you may be surprised at what you get.
Easiest way to measure the stroke is to insert a piece of soft wood and mark the TDC and BDC, the distance between these measurments is your stroke. The easiest way to measure the bore (without dismantling the engine) is to insert a piece of soft wood via the exhaust port.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

The plane shouldn't get covered with oil when using a smoke system. Maybe just a little bit of un-burned oil will get on the plane, but not a bunch as you said you have. I would try dialing the pump flow back a good bit, and also set up a mix so that the smoke system supplies much less at low throttle settings. That should help. Injecting too much smoke oil cools the exhaust and actually ends up making less smoke, and also spits out a bunch of un-burned oil which can get all over the plane. In your case, if you dial back the amount of smoke oil injected, you will likely get better, denser smoke, and save on both the cleanup, AND that expensive smoke oil.

AV8TOR

GEORGE_32

Just my 2 cents i bought from bp hobbies rcgf 60cc single before 1 month for 200 us the engine is the new one with the 6 brass but ignition module is the old one ( up to 6v the new one is up to 8.4 v) , in the site of bp hobbies the photos showing the old one with the 4 brass

SIX GUNS

Hay Guys the RCGF 60 showed up over the weekend and as I have been reading this forum about the 60
lit does have the 6 web boss on the front case . The Cdi may be the old style 4.8 -6.0 volts. That's fine as long as it works
I will keep everyone posted as to how it runs I was surprised that it came with a drill jig that will come in handy for drilling the prop

Jim

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

Yeah, I was pleasantly surprised by that too. I just wish they made them out of steel our something harder than aluminum. I don't know how long they will last before the holes are really out of round. And if they were thicker it would make drilling the holes straight easier. I shouldn't complain too much though. It's cool to get one with the engine and makes it possible to drill the prop without buying anything extra.

Just some advise. Drill it from both sides. It'll maker it much easier when trying to get your bolts through when installing the prop.

Oh, btw, what has the same prop bolt pattern as the 60? Just in case I need to buy a new drill guide or a pre drilled spinner backplate.

edge540purple

Specks for the new 10cc RCGF.

the pope

Hi there edge , any idea on a firm delivery date for the 10cc ? I know it says end of Jan on your website but Ive been holding my breathe for a long while now and its getting close to Feb ! Cheers the pope

edge540purple

Hi Pope,

Factory tell me the will be available next week, I will be ordering as soon as they become available... I'm looking forward, been a long time coming this one...

Captmicom

Hi Guys,

Yes it has been a long time coming!! We have been betting the "H" out of our 10cc beta unit for the last few weeks. It is a great little engine! It flys the 60 size ugly stik like it's tail is on fire. I even took it off the stik to show it at the AMA Expo this year. So per the factory, We will have the first production 10cc engines in the warehouse shipment coming in this week. I will let you all know as soon as they get here. We are still bouncing the final price around so I can't give you anything fixed just yet.

paof

Waoooo! 10cc! Big news jejeje. How much this engine?

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

Hey Joe, I've got a problem with my 60. I had a dead stick the other day. I've got to pat myself on the back a bit, I played it pretty cool and was able to save my plane in spectacular fashion. After I landed I couldn't believe how well things played out, considering the situation. It was a pretty windy day, I was hovering about 30-40' off the ground a good distance away and upwind of the runway (we have a nice runway, but there are no options around our field to land without wrecking your plane). Then silence. "Ahh crap" I shouted, of course. I kicked right rudder to get the nose to drop so I could dive straight down to gain as much airspeed as I could (afterward, my buddy told me he was sure it was going straight into the dirt, haha!). Then I headed downwind to get to the runway thinking I was doing to lose lift and go into the dirt in a bad spot with the tailwind. Having a large plane really makes a big difference. Somehow she kept up good speed. I turned base when I thought I needed to to make the runway while not overshooting it. Once on final approach I knew I was amazingly in good shape. With a stiff headwind I was able to touchdown as softly as I ever had with my engine running. Probably my best landing ever to be honest. Maybe the extra concentration made the difference.

Anyway, here's my issue with the engine. I thought I had just let my rpm drop too low with my throttle trim backed down too far. While getting ready to go up for a second flight I looked things over to see if there was an obvious reason for the engine to die. Then I noticed a small metal piece that did belong stuck to a blind nut for the cowl. I pulled the cowl off to realize that it was a magnet that was stuck to the blind nut. Yep, you guessed it...the magnet for the hall sensor had come out of the prop hub and made it's way to that blind nut. Had that not happened it would have taken me a lot longer to figure out why my engine wouldn't run.

So I called it a day and went home. The magnet seemed to stick to items from both ends so I figured it didn't matter which way it goes into the hub. Well I should have ran it passed the hall sensor to check before reinstalling it. Being a dummy, I dropped some 30min epoxy in the hole and stuck the magnet in. Now I'm screwed because the sensor is not picking up the signal and I'm not getting spark. Its not a cdi problem because I used a whole different cdi and sensor and it didn't work. I also used the cdi from the 60 on another engine and it sparked, so I know its a magnet problem.

Here is my question...what's the best way to get the prop hub off so I can replace it? Should I use my little cordless impact driver to break the spinner/hub bolt loose and then use a pulley puller? I think its going to be a pain in the butt to hold the prop hub so I can remove the bolt. I already ordered a new hub. I figured it would just be easier to replace it than to send the whole motor in for warranty work. I'm hoping I can just leave the engine on the plane. I know it's not a huge deal, but I hate removing and reinstalling engines!

Thanks,
Jeremy

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

Oh and I also noticed something strange with the CDI that came with the 60. For some reason the CDI will send a spark whenever power is initially sent to the unit. It's strange. I'm using a rcexcl CDI on my DLE20 (because a crash ruined the stock unit), which I used to troubleshoot my situation. When the rcexcl is powered on it does not send a spark. It only sends a spark when the magnet passes by hall sensor.

The RCGF CDI sending a spark when being powered up isn't that big of a deal, but if the piston happens to be near the top of its stroke it could cause the prop to kick over and whack me if I'm not careful. I had never noticed it doing this before, but I had never checked the spark before the first run. Every time I've powered up the CDI the cap has been on the plug while on the engine.

Have you ever experienced any of the RCGF CDIs doing this?

Thanks,
Jeremy

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Heat from a propane torch will soften the epoxy around the magnet. You should be able to dig it out with a pick after that, or with a stronger magnet.

3dsky

My Feedback: (84)

The RCGF CDI sending a spark when being powered up isn't that big of a deal, but if the piston happens to be near the top of its stroke it could cause the prop to kick over and whack me if I'm not careful. I had never noticed it doing this before, but I had never checked the spark before the first run. Every time I've powered up the CDI the cap has been on the plug while on the engine

Yes some units will spark when powered up, and yes you could get a kick from the prop. SO it is a good practice not to stick you arm through the prop and turn on the ignition, do it from the back no matter what unit you have. I also move the prop to a low compression point then apply power.

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

I already tried that. No joy.

3dsky

My Feedback: (84)

You should be able to remove the prop hub with a small 3 arm puller, but it may need some heat. It takes more force than you would think.

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

Getting the hub off won't be the problem. Getting the spinner bolt (well the bolt that accepts the spinner bolt and keeps the hub on) off will be the hard part. The crank and hub want to turn when you try and get it off. I may need to make a special wrench that I can put the prop bolts through to hold onto it. That's why I was asking Joe. He's got to have some special tool or method to get it off since he's the go to guy for service.

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

I guess I could use a pipe wrench. I don't really need to worry about marring it up since it's useless now.

3dsky

My Feedback: (84)

http://www.zjrcgf.com/upload/1ef90cd...719ebf2f1c.pdf

manual for 60
shows the spinner standoff, will unscrew (insert socket to remove), use puller to remove hub. remove muffler and rotate piston and insert a hard wood block in exhaust port to hold piston. BUT if this is all new to you I would send it in. Hope this helps