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Old 11-20-2015, 08:57 AM
  #6526  
ahicks
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Originally Posted by Captmicom
I use 6v 1600 MhA 2/3 "A" packs normally. But if I need a bit more weight up front I will use a 6v 2200 MhA pack. On the smaller planes I use 4.8v 1500 or 1600 MhA pack. Our new CDI systems are not power hogs.

As for the IBECs I say be smart save your money and use two separate power sources.
From a functional standpoint, I think this call should be made depending on how many mah/what type battery you're running, and how big a plane we're talking about. Anything under 50cc running a 2200mah (or so) Life battery works just fine on a single battery, even when talking about a plane running 5+ digital servos. 15cc and smaller get by just fine on 1100's. There's really no need for the extra expense, complexity or maintenance required by 2 batteries, especially if/when that number 2 battery is going to just feed the ignition.

Obviously, there's also your level of paranoia to consider....
Old 11-20-2015, 03:34 PM
  #6527  
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Originally Posted by MTK
The CDI uses the same energy to spark a 10cc single or 85cc single.

But why use a second battery at all? I recommend the Tech Aero Ignition Battery Eliminator (IBEC). It powers the CDI from the main, radio battery and actually costs less than a second battery and second switch. The main battery should have about 1800ma capacity minimum and 6 volts. I suggest you take a look on the Tech Aero Designs website.

But don't twins use more power than a single having twice as many sparks generated?

Being new to gassers I really don't know which way to go. I have read some of the posts going back a few years about different types of batteries and also IBECs and for everyone that supports one system there is another saying why they wouldn't use that system. Very confusing.
Old 11-20-2015, 03:36 PM
  #6528  
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Originally Posted by Bcolici
Another option is to make a small solder modification to a rcxel ignition kill switch and then it can be used as a ibec .
Interesting, off to Google what this is all about. Thanks.
Old 11-20-2015, 03:57 PM
  #6529  
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Originally Posted by Captmicom
I use 6v 1600 MhA 2/3 "A" packs normally. But if I need a bit more weight up front I will use a 6v 2200 MhA pack. On the smaller planes I use 4.8v 1500 or 1600 MhA pack. Our new CDI systems are not power hogs.

As for the IBECs I say be smart save your money and use two separate power sources.

Thanks, I think I will start with this system while I investigate the others.
Old 11-20-2015, 04:16 PM
  #6530  
ahicks
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Originally Posted by Cjkuehl
Interesting, off to Google what this is all about. Thanks.
These are the directions that come with an Rcexl igniton optical kill switch. If you look down towards the bottom there are a couple of pictures that tell the story much better than the chinglish does...
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Old 11-20-2015, 06:18 PM
  #6531  
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CJ,

The twins Do Not use any more batt power then a single.. If you have any other questions give me a call....
Old 11-20-2015, 06:27 PM
  #6532  
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CJ,

It can be very confusing. Because you are new to gassers I would crawl before I walk and so on. At my flying field we have lost at least 6 big planes in the last year to total failure of IBECs.
Just as an FYI 3 of them were Tech Aero units. Most of the guys I fly with are older guys and they don't get out on the net much if at all!!!
Old 11-20-2015, 06:47 PM
  #6533  
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Cj,
in the end its up to you with which way you want to go.
There are a few different ways to setup your gasser.Read as much info you can find and go the route that your confident with and feel safe about.
Do your range check with engine off and then with it running.
On a different note im going to get my rcgf 10cc started this weekend. =)
Old 11-20-2015, 10:06 PM
  #6534  
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Originally Posted by Cjkuehl
But don't twins use more power than a single having twice as many sparks generated?

Being new to gassers I really don't know which way to go. I have read some of the posts going back a few years about different types of batteries and also IBECs and for everyone that supports one system there is another saying why they wouldn't use that system. Very confusing.
Twins don't. There is one CDI (two plug cables of course) one hall sensor and magnet and one spark fed to both cables. It's a parallel set-up. Yes I was in your shoes 6 years ago when I first converted my glow stuff to gas. There was all sorts of "advice" in these pages and most of it was nonsense. Slowly the few who knew their stuff shined through and you too will figure out whose expertise to allow in.

It was 6 years ago when Ed and I (Ed owns TAD) discussed designing an IBEC, on the way back from a trip to Syssa Aircraft Performance. Making a long story short, I helped Ed test his IBEC and I still have the original, still working IBEC that he hand built. The unit is now robotically built and is the reason he can offer this device at such a small price. It's essentially the same price as a second battery. He has several thousand units in service and as of the last time we spoke, not a single problem has been reported from the field.

The early IBECs before the TAD device came to market, were failure prone. Ed designed in optical isolation and filtering features that practically eliminate RFI noise to the RX for example. A second battery simply can't compare. You might want to check out his website for a complete description of the features.

At the end of the day, a second battery and switch sound simpler. In fact that's how I had my first gassie set-up. But considering the care and feeding of that second battery and the inconvenience of switching a second switch off at the plane, to me the TAD IBEC wins hands down. The remote kill feature and RFI filtering are two more key reasons to own the unit The other IBECs on the market don't compare either.
Old 11-21-2015, 10:40 AM
  #6535  
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Just to add a bit of triva, back a few years switches were prone to vib/failure and along came the IBEC, and a few of my club fliers have used them (the TAD never a problem) some other brands some problems, If I was in need of a new bird, I still like the kiss thingy but would most likely go with a TAD unit unless I needed the extra weight up front. So the way I see it is Don't let you pocket book be your guide.


But that is just me

Cheers Bob T
Old 11-24-2015, 05:21 PM
  #6536  
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My ignition batteries arrived and I got one charged up, mounted the 30cc twin to a test stand with an 18x8 Master Airscrew classic prop, set the choke and dribbled a bit of fuel in the carb to prime her as the fuel line was empty. Plugged in the battery and flipped the prop. Little bugger started and ran for a few seconds. I had to dribble fuel in the carb 2 more times and start the engine and the fuel line was full and she was purring at 2500 rpm. I mounted the test stand to a saw horse and moved it outside, ran it for 10 minutes at 2500 with an occasional throttle blip and shut her down.

Got a big smile on my face tonight.
https://youtu.be/NWqQWVaYYO0 Now I wait for the plane to arrive and get this baby mounted.
Old 11-26-2015, 11:39 AM
  #6537  
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Default leaking fuel pump diaphram

Joe here is the video.


https://youtu.be/a4Yy8EfauPA


Happy Thanksgiving!
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Old 11-26-2015, 01:06 PM
  #6538  
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I also forgot to mention that when I hook up my rcxcel tach the engine won't start. If I have the engine running then plug in the tach it kills the engine.
Old 11-26-2015, 05:07 PM
  #6539  
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Joe, i also see that there is a new design pump on the website.
Old 11-27-2015, 01:08 PM
  #6540  
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Thank you Joe for taking care of it,
It was nice talking to you.
Old 11-27-2015, 03:44 PM
  #6541  
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Hi BC,

Not a problem I was happy to take care of it.. OK News flash!! for all of our RCGF friends two things.

One: The fuel pump for the 10cc BM is now on its rev 3. Straight up I was totally oblivious to any design changes to the pump until recently when I had my first run-in with the v2 pump. I just got some v3 pumps as spare parts in the latest shipment. That will happen every now and then. When you are trying to start your 10cc BM you will need to use an electric starter on it to get it to pull the full until it breaks in a bit.

Two: RCGF ended our relationship with RCExl last October. We designed our own CDI system ( The Pegasus System) that will run from 4.8v to 8.4v allowing the user to use a Lipo pack if they wanted to without using a regulator. That said, you CAN NOT use your old RCExl Tachometer with the New Pegasus system. If you want to use a Tach with your engine, as long as it is the New CDI, you will need to use a Pegasus tach. We do have them available on the web site or give me a call.
Old 11-28-2015, 05:31 AM
  #6542  
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another new version... this is getting unbelievable. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...l#post12133474
I would never get a RCGF engine because you know a new one is already in the oven.
Old 11-28-2015, 07:24 PM
  #6543  
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Mikola,

Not sure what your point is but that is ok. At the rate the RCGF engines are flying off the warehouse shelves that will leave more for the rest of us. The new 10cc BM carb version that you are referring to was what we wanted the little engine to be in the beginning. A carb is very hard to miniaturize after a point so it took a little longer to get it done. We have carb kits available to upgrade the older slide version engines. The gas engine market place is exploding and very diverse. In order to own this market we must be on the leading edge of development to meet the ever expanding requirements of our customers.
Old 11-29-2015, 10:12 AM
  #6544  
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Originally Posted by Captmicom
Hi BC,

When you are trying to start your 10cc BM you will need to use an electric starter on it to get it to pull the full until it breaks in a bit.

.
This change in structure allows you to start the engine with the first rotation fingertips.



In no carburetor choke valve.
For this reason it is very difficult to remove air from the chamber fuel regulator (It is for this Walbro puts a damper).
Therefore, we are pressing on the diaphragm immediately fill the chamber with fuel.


And the engine start takes place comfortably from the first revolution of the crankshaft.




My engine even during rotation starter did not want to fill the chamber.
We had to close the entrance finger carburetor to fuel enters the system.
Is it so difficult was taken by this option?
Develop a good engine and skip the simplest thing that spoils the impression.






The engine worked more than 20 hours.
By eliminating hemorrhoids (gift manufacturer) I have no claims against him.
It works like a good watch, and always reliable.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pt9-oK5y7Wo Unfortunately there is no way to make a video of the flight.




I managed to get a very lightweight engine.

Change the pump makes no sense.
Perri only half lighter.
The work makes no difference.




Best Regards .................
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Old 11-29-2015, 11:34 AM
  #6545  
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I'm not very clear on the starting process described above. Can someone explain in a step by step manner. Maybe post supporting pictures?

DaleD
Old 11-29-2015, 11:50 AM
  #6546  
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1)Push the button.
2)You do a few turns of the crankshaft.
3)Release the button.
4)Easy tug on the propeller blades.
And the engine from the first turn begins to work.
-------------------------------
If you know the principle of operation of the carburettor, why and what happened, you'll understand.
If you have this engine, you will understand why this is necessary.
-----------------------

If you do not know about what I wrote in the last two lines - Sorry I'm not ready to explain to you.
Old 11-29-2015, 12:01 PM
  #6547  
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Thanks for explaining. The button to which you refer is the brass nipple looking thing on the side of the carb?

DaleD
Old 11-29-2015, 12:21 PM
  #6548  
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Originally Posted by DaleD
Thanks for explaining. The button to which you refer is the brass nipple looking thing on the side of the carb?

DaleD
Yes, everything is just so.
Button - this is the pin sticking out of bronze.
I do not set the goal of beauty.
The goal was to make a design that does not spoil the work of the regulator.
Therefore, there is a limitation when pressing.
There is a spring that prevents impact on regulator nodes during flight.
------------------------------------------------------------




I am surprised why this engine has no popularity.
The engine received generally good.
There are some points, but they do not spoil the whole engine.
Old 11-29-2015, 12:28 PM
  #6549  
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SUPER!!!!

I'm sure I will enjoy this engine as much as I have the 15cc.

DaleD
Old 11-29-2015, 01:04 PM
  #6550  
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In 15сс I think the problems with the carburettor should not be.
In 10сс created a new carburetor.
During operation, the carburetor works extremely well.
That's single moment - to start the engine after a long period of inactivity.
There are the moment at 10сс -
If you plan to use 3D.
Pick the propeller of this size to the maximum engine speed does not fall below 8600rpm.
If there turns lower, the pressure regulator begins to not work correctly.
I can not explain the reason (bad English), but the figures mixture begins to change.
Good luck ....


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