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Old 07-23-2017, 06:33 PM
  #6801  
NCRC
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Originally Posted by dkurtzid
Glitchy ailerons and flaps in a hanger 9 super cub with RCGF 21cc twin. Near constant erratic movement of all 4 wing control surfaces. Oddly enough the Rudder and elevator servos are not affected. All servos are the same HS645MG's. Servo movement occurs even before engine starts, with ignition switch on, and motor turning over just using an electric starter causes the same erratic movement. Golden rod between throttle servo and carb. Ignition module and ignition battery are in the fuselage on each side of the fuel tank just behind the firewall. The receiver and receiver battery are located in the rear seat position, about 10-12 inches from the ignition module and ignition battery. I was using a physical switch between the ignition battery and ignition module but the issue persists even with the battery connected directly to the module.

Any ideas? Since servos are analog would digital servos be less susceptible to ignition noise? Are the long leads up and to the aileron and Flap servos a problem? 106" wing span.

Don
Interested in the replies to this question, as I'm having the same issues with a RCGF 15cc.
Ailerons only.
Old 07-23-2017, 06:37 PM
  #6802  
the pope
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I am certainly no gas expert but it seems that issues like yours can be a loose sparkplug cap . Dodgy extension leads ? Look on Fl-ing giants forums . Theres been lots of posts and answer to this very problem . Cheers
Old 07-23-2017, 07:25 PM
  #6803  
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I would check for a possible faulty connection in the aileron and flaps connectors, and also ensure that both plug caps are firmly seated on the plugs.
Old 07-24-2017, 12:32 AM
  #6804  
Lifer
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Is the spark plug cap fully secure/seated?
Old 07-24-2017, 02:04 AM
  #6805  
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Most likely there is some vibration at the spark plug boots. Easiest way i have found to correct this is to use a small automotive hose clamp around the boot. (make sure your spark plugs are tight and the boots are pushed on all the way as well)
Old 07-24-2017, 03:45 AM
  #6806  
ahicks
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If you can see the hex portion of the spark plug, the metal boot has not been pushed on far enough. Yes, they're stiff!
Old 07-24-2017, 05:09 AM
  #6807  
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If it's happening when you turn on the ignition and not rotating the prop then there is something wrong with your ignition module.
Old 07-24-2017, 05:45 AM
  #6808  
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Originally Posted by erieqc
If it's happening when you turn on the ignition and not rotating the prop then there is something wrong with your ignition module.

I suggest that the ignition be disconnected from the power source, and the Rx be powered up. If the problem persists, it's not the ignition.
If the problem goes away, there is now a basis to work from.
Old 07-24-2017, 10:04 AM
  #6809  
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Thank you all for the comments and suggestions. I will touch on each comment.
  1. Plug Caps appear (and feel) to be seated, no hex nut plug base showing, and they appear to hit the top of the head.
  2. The servos all worked fine while flying the super cub with electric power (Rimfire 160) before changing over to the Gas Engine.
  3. The erratic movement of all 4 servos only occurs when the engine is rotating and the ignition on (either running on its own power, or when just turning over with an electric starter, but not running.
Based on feedback here and talking with Joe at RCGF USA (very helpful by the way) I will try small hose clamps on the base of the plug caps. One of the factors is the small 1/4-32 spark plugs not being very reliable with the cap plugs. Another suggestion was to insert a short portion of a ball point pen spring onto the spark plug to get a better connection with the top of the cap. The theory being that the small spring contact at the top of the cap is not making solid contact with the spark plug. Again it seems to be more associated with the small spark plug compatibility with the Plug Caps.

I'll post my findings after testing.

Don
Old 07-24-2017, 12:02 PM
  #6810  
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Interesting discussion, I have a rcgf 15cc on a BTE Flying King 80" . About two weeks ago I had an issue at the field, out cruising around I was at full throttle the Flying King rolls over on it's back heads for ground. Pulled back on the throttle regained control came around and landed. Tied it down, ran it up to full throttle and wow, full deflection on the ailerons. I did a re-bind and checked all of the aileron connections and fired it back up. Everything worked, no issues, let it cool down, and ran it a least two more times on the ground. Went for spin around the patch everything went fine. Before this incident I had run about two gallons through this engine with no issues like this, I guess it was a bad aileron connection. Just kind of spooky after reading some of the previous posts.
Old 07-24-2017, 12:15 PM
  #6811  
ahicks
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Don, purely out of curiosity, do you have the new style 1/4-32 boot that snaps on, or the older style that push on and turn to lock?
Old 07-24-2017, 12:34 PM
  #6812  
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Originally Posted by ahicks
Don, purely out of curiosity, do you have the new style 1/4-32 boot that snaps on, or the older style that push on and turn to lock?
i'm not sure which kind it is. I don't feel any snap and there is no twist and lock that I can tell. They just push on and seem to hold with friction. The engine was just purchased a few weeks ago in the ignition system came with the engine. The manual doesn't say anything about twist and lock. I have twisted them back-and-forth but they just seem to rotate.

Don
Old 07-24-2017, 03:54 PM
  #6813  
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So you likely have the new one. If you had the old "twist to lock" i think you'd notice. Thanks, -Al
Old 07-25-2017, 04:41 AM
  #6814  
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Just curious what size and brand servos are these??
I had a similar issue with Graupner mini servos on a 10 cc. Metal gear,digital and torque ratings was plenty for the application. The aileron servos started twitching on this plane after a few flights, with no issues at first when the engine was started. If I held the aileron the twitching would stop. Then they started twitching when the starter was used for the first start of the day engine not running yet. I didn't feel comfortable flying with them even though the elevator,rudder and throttle servo didn't do it. These were all the same servos including the ones in the ailerons.
I changed them all out to a different brand and larger size servos with no issues now.
If all else fails swap out the servos and see what happens.
Old 07-25-2017, 06:08 PM
  #6815  
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Default Aileron and flap servo Glitching problem solved!

Aileron and flap servo Glitching problem solved!
Evidently The spark plug caps were not making good contact. At the suggestion of comments on this thread and the RCGF Rep I used small hose clamps to secure the base of the caps, and also inserted a section of a ball point pen spring (about five turns of the spring) on the head of the spark plug before pressing on the plug cap. I don't think the existing spring in the top of the cap was making contact with the spark plug, causing arcing and subsequent interference. The spark plugs and caps are of the 1/4-32 variety. Before this modification the flaps and ailerons were extremely glitchy, and after the mod they were rock solid. Thanks to the guys on this thread and to Joe at RCGF USA for the suggested fix. I would never have believed it would have been something that simple.

Don
Old 07-25-2017, 06:11 PM
  #6816  
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In response to the previous question the servos were Hitec HS-645MGs.
Old 07-26-2017, 10:37 AM
  #6817  
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Glad to hear it was a simple fix.
Old 07-27-2017, 02:21 AM
  #6818  
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That is great news Don. Thanks for the update.
Old 08-01-2017, 06:18 AM
  #6819  
OldScaleGuy
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FYI fella's.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/prod...l#post12356549
Old 08-10-2017, 02:20 AM
  #6820  
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Based on a recommendation of one of our local gasoline engine experts, i have mixed a gallon of fuel with conventional oil at 32/1. My RCGF 20RE seems to really like that mixture. I will run a gallon or two of this mixture and then back to 40/1 Redline. Others starting out with synthetic oil in these engines may want to try this as well to get some break in time.
Old 08-10-2017, 03:36 AM
  #6821  
ahicks
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Many are running 32:1 in everything they own. It's been proven by many, over and over again, that there's no real advantage to running 40:1, 50:1 or less - none.

So the overwhelming question would be, why would you?
Old 08-10-2017, 03:51 AM
  #6822  
Lifer
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I'm with ahicks on this one. My 20cc engines call for 32-1 and life is simpler if I use the same oil/gas mix in everything I own from 20 to 62cc's. I also use an oil that is a mix of synthetic and conventional oils. Again, simplify!
Old 08-10-2017, 04:41 AM
  #6823  
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The reason i have been running 40/1 Redline is that a retired racing go cart engine builder/friend of mine told me years ago when i first started flying gasoline that if i used that combination i would never have an oil related failure. I am always open to change for the better.
I can tell you that i saw the inside of an engine this year that the fellow had been running 32/1 conventional oil and it had a lot of carbon build up. I suspect that it is from running conventional oil too long after break in versus the ratio.
Old 08-10-2017, 05:20 AM
  #6824  
ahicks
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Thinking that carbon evidence might be less about ratio and more about the type/brand of oil? That's me though. I'm just spouting off for those with an open mind on the topic. -Al
Old 08-10-2017, 05:24 AM
  #6825  
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I agree, i think it was the oil in this case. Spout away...


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