Fiber optic Kill switch
07-24-2003, 03:54 PM
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Originally posted by RickP
Hello all,
Well, I went ahead with the fiber optic kill switch - hope I made the right the choice I also ordered there battery backer. What did you guys do with the wire gage issue? Just solder the smaller leads to the larger?
RickP
Hello all,
Well, I went ahead with the fiber optic kill switch - hope I made the right the choice I also ordered there battery backer. What did you guys do with the wire gage issue? Just solder the smaller leads to the larger?
RickP
07-26-2003, 09:16 PM
#53
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Fiber optic Kill switch
Originally posted by sfaust
I've snapped a few prop bolts myself. The last one was just after coming out of an elevator I was going to do a warm burner pass down the runway. The engine sounded funny, so I landed. I had sheared three bolts.
There are a couple reasons that the bolts will shear. One is if they are over tightened when the prop is installed. There is a torque spec for the bolts, but I forget what it is. I'll try to look it up and post it. Another is if the hole for the prop bolts are not drilled perfectly straight, you can add quite a bit of shear tension which would shear the bolt under stress.
I've found my usual reason for shearing a prop bolt is misaligned prop bolts. You can usually tell when you are installing the prop, and a few of the bolts are tight going in. Even with the accessory DA or 3W drilling jig, you need to pay attention to get the holes drilled straight and true.
I've snapped a few prop bolts myself. The last one was just after coming out of an elevator I was going to do a warm burner pass down the runway. The engine sounded funny, so I landed. I had sheared three bolts.
There are a couple reasons that the bolts will shear. One is if they are over tightened when the prop is installed. There is a torque spec for the bolts, but I forget what it is. I'll try to look it up and post it. Another is if the hole for the prop bolts are not drilled perfectly straight, you can add quite a bit of shear tension which would shear the bolt under stress.
I've found my usual reason for shearing a prop bolt is misaligned prop bolts. You can usually tell when you are installing the prop, and a few of the bolts are tight going in. Even with the accessory DA or 3W drilling jig, you need to pay attention to get the holes drilled straight and true.
Example: A M6 8.8 screw shall have a torque of 10Nm and a 12.9 shall have a torque of 18Nm
Just my .02
07-29-2003, 03:13 PM
#54
Fiber optic Kill switch
Originally posted by BasinBum
RE: the Battery Backer, apearently there are still some people who have not read Red's battery FAQ or they don't think he is correct.
RE: the Battery Backer, apearently there are still some people who have not read Red's battery FAQ or they don't think he is correct.
I'm up for a little sound advice. I read the FAQ but didn't see any mention about the battery backer. What's the deal?
RickP
07-29-2003, 03:46 PM
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Quoted from the FAQ:
Under Parallel Batteries
The use of redundant parallel fight packs (packs may be of different capacity but MUST be of an equal number of cells) is an excellent way to increase the available flight time and significantly improve the reliability of the on power system. The simplest means is to run two complete wiring harness, switches and charge jacks from each pack and plug one into the normal battery port and the other into an extra channel on the receiver. No diodes or isolation is required (see below). This is simpler and more reliable than some of the complex battery backup systems being offered on the market.
08-11-2003, 07:37 PM
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I'd put it between the receiver and the voltage regulator...
That way you are passing only 4.8 volts thru it.
Them PowerFlight batteries can be pretty hot at full charge...
That way you are passing only 4.8 volts thru it.
Them PowerFlight batteries can be pretty hot at full charge...
08-11-2003, 07:58 PM
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Originally posted by Mordib
I'd put it between the receiver and the voltage regulator...
I'd put it between the receiver and the voltage regulator...
I was wondering where to put the Voltage Regulator..
Upstream of the EDR 1071 or Downstream of it.
The 1071 will have the fiber optic cable attached to it. That will go to the other end of the FO kill and that will plug into the RX..
08-11-2003, 08:08 PM
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Your second example seems the better way to go. You'd be regulating the voltage before it goes to the EDR switch and in the first set-up it would not regulate until it got to the ignition module. I doubt the switch is designed to handle much more than 6 volts.
08-11-2003, 08:11 PM
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DOH...
I MEANT to type...
I'd put the EDR unit between the INGNITION and the 4 regulator...
so that the unit only sees the lower voltage...
Otherwise it gets the HOT voltage from PowerFlight...
But whato I know, I haven't gotten one yet...
I MEANT to type...
I'd put the EDR unit between the INGNITION and the 4 regulator...
so that the unit only sees the lower voltage...
Otherwise it gets the HOT voltage from PowerFlight...
But whato I know, I haven't gotten one yet...
08-11-2003, 08:15 PM
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BasinBum.
I agree. But, thats not what they just told me at Electro Dynamics.
I was kinda suprised that they werent sure what I was talking about.
I know I am not the first person to use a Voltage regulator with this kill switch. I was kinda hoping for a definitive answer from them and what I got was more like a guess.
To make it more clear I drew this simplified picture..
I agree. But, thats not what they just told me at Electro Dynamics.
I was kinda suprised that they werent sure what I was talking about.
I know I am not the first person to use a Voltage regulator with this kill switch. I was kinda hoping for a definitive answer from them and what I got was more like a guess.
To make it more clear I drew this simplified picture..
08-11-2003, 08:30 PM
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A voltage regulator is to regulate voltage to a lower level. So it should allways be right after the switch. Anything in the circuit will then be getting the lower voltage.
Make sure it is installed after the switch, other wise if it is right after the battery, then you will allways draw a bit of current.
Make sure it is installed after the switch, other wise if it is right after the battery, then you will allways draw a bit of current.
08-11-2003, 08:32 PM
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Did you talk to a sales type or an engineer type? I'm guessing sales! Maybe you could get an opinion from Red over in the battery forum.
Also, from what I understand, there is no advantage to using more than 4.8 volts on your ignition except the lighter wieght of the Power Flights and after adding the regulator it might be a wash. Maybe that is why they don't get that question very often.
Also, from what I understand, there is no advantage to using more than 4.8 volts on your ignition except the lighter wieght of the Power Flights and after adding the regulator it might be a wash. Maybe that is why they don't get that question very often.
08-11-2003, 08:37 PM
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Initially sales.....
Then a gentleman got on the phone and gave me that answer.
Using Poweflites for weight savings with more Mah.
Then a gentleman got on the phone and gave me that answer.
Using Poweflites for weight savings with more Mah.
08-11-2003, 08:49 PM
#68
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I concur with BasinBum and Aerographix... And Roger has a good point... that unit will always draw power (even if it's just a little) and placing it after the regulator & switch will turn off power to it when not in use...
They may not be familiar enough with the PowerFlights to know how many volts they are fresh charged...
Again, since the EDR will work with a 4.8 volt source, WHY wouldn't you place it after the voltage regulator...
It COULD be that the EDR isn't that sensitive to voltage within reason, and he doesn't really mid where it goes, but I can;t think of any logical reason why it would NEED to be before the regulator...
ANywho...
Letl me how you like it... I really liek the idea of them... In my latest project (the GP 1/4 scale) Patty I have a throttle cut AND a servo on choke... but there were other safety features I liked... most importantly not being able to start the plane without the receiver on...
They may not be familiar enough with the PowerFlights to know how many volts they are fresh charged...
Again, since the EDR will work with a 4.8 volt source, WHY wouldn't you place it after the voltage regulator...
It COULD be that the EDR isn't that sensitive to voltage within reason, and he doesn't really mid where it goes, but I can;t think of any logical reason why it would NEED to be before the regulator...
ANywho...
Letl me how you like it... I really liek the idea of them... In my latest project (the GP 1/4 scale) Patty I have a throttle cut AND a servo on choke... but there were other safety features I liked... most importantly not being able to start the plane without the receiver on...
08-12-2003, 11:31 AM
#69
Fiber optic Kill switch
Gang,
I am running the EDR on 6V HiMH batts. Seems to operate just fine. I agree, using the powerflights on the ignition is not so common.
I'm using a 2150 pack and it's kind of heavy. I'm thinking about cutting it back to a 1800 to try and save some weight - I like the idea of the powerflights, but that seems like an expensive solution.
BTW I am extremely happy with this set up now. I admit that at first I was nervous about all of the talk on this thread, but the switch seems to perform just well. I like being able to control the ignition from the TX. Now I can choke the motor and easily toggle the ignition on and off.
RickP
I am running the EDR on 6V HiMH batts. Seems to operate just fine. I agree, using the powerflights on the ignition is not so common.
I'm using a 2150 pack and it's kind of heavy. I'm thinking about cutting it back to a 1800 to try and save some weight - I like the idea of the powerflights, but that seems like an expensive solution.
BTW I am extremely happy with this set up now. I admit that at first I was nervous about all of the talk on this thread, but the switch seems to perform just well. I like being able to control the ignition from the TX. Now I can choke the motor and easily toggle the ignition on and off.
RickP
08-12-2003, 12:00 PM
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Thansk for the set up help on this!
HUH?
I dont know anyone who uses Li-Ion Batts for the RX (Powerflite or Duralite Plus) that doesnt also use them on the Ign.
Why not use something that for the same weight will last twice as long??
My 2000 Mah Powerflite Ign Batt weighs about what a 600 Mah Ni-Cad weighs.
Originally posted by RickP
I agree, using the powerflights on the ignition is not so common.
I agree, using the powerflights on the ignition is not so common.
I dont know anyone who uses Li-Ion Batts for the RX (Powerflite or Duralite Plus) that doesnt also use them on the Ign.
Why not use something that for the same weight will last twice as long??
My 2000 Mah Powerflite Ign Batt weighs about what a 600 Mah Ni-Cad weighs.
08-13-2003, 12:15 AM
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I'm an engineering person with an EDR, no Powerflights or regulator in my setup however.....I see value in the EDR before the regulator for several reasons.
1. The regulator is proven with a switch on it's input, why not use the EDR to switch it like your normal switch does.
2. Where solid state switching is involved, current rating is more important to the semiconductor doing the job. There is less current to switch at the higher voltage since power disapation is fixed.
3. Regulators work based on a load, switching the load on/off with the EDR might affect the final output section if not designed around that need.
I'd bet it would work either way, but as a technical person, the EDR advice was not at all bad.
1. The regulator is proven with a switch on it's input, why not use the EDR to switch it like your normal switch does.
2. Where solid state switching is involved, current rating is more important to the semiconductor doing the job. There is less current to switch at the higher voltage since power disapation is fixed.
3. Regulators work based on a load, switching the load on/off with the EDR might affect the final output section if not designed around that need.
I'd bet it would work either way, but as a technical person, the EDR advice was not at all bad.
08-13-2003, 06:29 PM
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On my G-62,I have been recomended to kill the engine with the choke, not with a kill switch. This because of that the k- switch can make interference( God, what a word ) to the radio signal. This is OK with me, but I`d like to switch the engine dead when I`m not use it too. Then I must have a switch, and that will produce int.......too, I guess ? What do I do
Cbastian
Cbastian
08-13-2003, 08:12 PM
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Originally posted by Cbastian
On my G-62,I have been recomended to kill the engine with the choke, not with a kill switch. This because of that the k- switch can make interference( God, what a word ) to the radio signal. This is OK with me, but I`d like to switch the engine dead when I`m not use it too. Then I must have a switch, and that will produce int.......too, I guess ? What do I do
Cbastian
On my G-62,I have been recomended to kill the engine with the choke, not with a kill switch. This because of that the k- switch can make interference( God, what a word ) to the radio signal. This is OK with me, but I`d like to switch the engine dead when I`m not use it too. Then I must have a switch, and that will produce int.......too, I guess ? What do I do
Cbastian
08-15-2003, 03:00 PM
#75
Fiber optic Kill switch
Originally posted by wgeffon
Thansk for the set up help on this!
HUH?
I dont know anyone who uses Li-Ion Batts for the RX (Powerflite or Duralite Plus) that doesnt also use them on the Ign.
Why not use something that for the same weight will last twice as long??
My 2000 Mah Powerflite Ign Batt weighs about what a 600 Mah Ni-Cad weighs.
Thansk for the set up help on this!
HUH?
I dont know anyone who uses Li-Ion Batts for the RX (Powerflite or Duralite Plus) that doesnt also use them on the Ign.
Why not use something that for the same weight will last twice as long??
My 2000 Mah Powerflite Ign Batt weighs about what a 600 Mah Ni-Cad weighs.
I should say that no one at our field really uses them. I thought about it, but figured I could get away with a $30 1800 Mah battery on the ignition (perhaps smaller / lighter - I think you can get away with less?) and for the two large packs for the flight gear use the lighter batteries. That's one less regulator I'd also need. Kind of made sense to me, but I guess it's not that popular.
RickP