LanceLKs

The correct Reed block will be aluminum.

oncebitten

My Feedback: (3)

Ok .it looks like near the fuel inlet nipple there is a number WGA 9A then just below that 546. About 1year or so I contacted the new BME owners ,Tom? maybe ,And after I sent them My original paperwork for when i bought it ,they sent me the so called fix for it, the nylon reed block,they now have an aluminum one? that makes this one obsolete? I was one of the first people to buy one of these from Keith,My plan was to put it on a Ziroli Bearcat,but its still on the back burner,but I have an Extreme Flight 110 in. Yak that might like it,it curently has a DLE111, on it just because I didn't want to have a flame out with the BME if the fix didin't work, and the ignition is the old Falcon. I am thinking about just sending it back to BME and have them update it and make sure it runs fine. I have never started it up yet. because right after I bought it there were people having problems with them.This was,....is my first BME engine also.I am undecided what to do with it? I know the DLE111 I bought is done with the break in oil on the YAK I can get 6300 rpms from the dle on the ground with a vess 28A..anyone have any suggestions for my BME? Oh by the way I bought mine 3-28-2007 from Cheif RC

LanceLKs

Send it to BME and get the ignition changed to rcexl and the alum Reed block. You have the correct Carb.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

I have either the first or second 115 made flying in a 2.6m Compy Yak. It does so regularly. If there's a plane you don't want to worry about flame outs with it's a Compy. Nobody likes buying one of those airframes because of a dead engine. So have no worries. I sure don't.

Mine now has the aluminum reed block. The WGA-9 is a good carb. Installing both is an easy endeavor. When the induction fix was being researched the first round went to replacing the carb with a later and fianl part of the fix foing to the reed block. Sounds like you have the first half of the fix but never got to the second half.

As for the ignition, I would dispose of the Falkon. They are well noted for losing a cylinder. The Falkon sensor installed on the engine will work with an RC Exl if you change the pin outs on the sensor plug. Very easy to do using a straight pin to lift the pin locks in order to slide them out of the housing and into a different position.

To adapt the Falkon sensor to C&H/RC Exl ignition, the black Falkon goes to white C&H, brown Falkon to red C&H and blue Falkon to black C&H.

oncebitten

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks for the input, I think I will just send it to BME for the upgrades and new ignition and have them do it and send it back to me .

altavillan

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Bitten, Good to see yer gona run the BME.
Here's my take on your questions; The plastic reedblock shown will cure the issues of fuel puddling and make the engine run good. I have one and it does work. Only drawback I found with it is it will compress a bit and need to be retightened a couple times. It does quit compressing after a bit and not need further maintenance. It can be improved and mine is by continuing the venturi down into the chamber a bit, but thats a bunch of work hand shaping aluminum to fit. Worth it in a sort of why not way. If you decide to use the aluminum one instead, keep the plastic one because it is lighter.
The WGA 9carb is my prefered carb of the two BME offered. To me it has a smoother mid range. However the WB 35 is a much shorter carb and will fit smaller cowls better. The difference in how they run is barely noticable. One thing I strongly recomend is having BME install a pulse port fitting directly centered in the pump chamber if your carb doesn't already have it there. This will give it the strongest pump action and most consistant fuel metering. Only pay extra for the WB carb if it will help keep you from having to cut the bottom out on a cowl for the carb to fit. It's about 1/2" difference. In my reedcages I drill a tiny (wiresized about 15) hole where fuel could puddle. That would be to the backside as the engine sits in the plane. That lets the fuel suck back into the reeds and go where it belongs
Run the Falcon till it dies. I've had three, the two that died would have a cold cylinder at the start and would slowly come on and run fine all day. So they don't just quit. By all means get an RCXL to have handy as a back up.
Now if you want light, keep that plastic reedblock, find a good SDC 19.05m carb, get a 80mm 8x1.25 Titanium stud and weigh in at 3.9#. Thats light!

Good Luck!

LanceLKs

The WB Carb would be a wb25.The wga7/9 is a much better running Carb. The falcon ignition is not worth risking your plane over. It is very unreliable. The plastic replacement Reed block had a problem of shrinking over time and led to the aluminum block which retains a little heat and lets excess fuel that puddles evaporate.

oncebitten

My Feedback: (3)

Altavillan, Thanks for all the info on the BME 115, Since its been 3 years since I bought this engine I doubt they will send me the block for free now,I wonder what they charge for one ? and I also was wondering if any twin rcexcel ignition will work, like the one DLE uses on the 111? I'm not in a hurry to fire it up anyway since we in Michigan are nearing the end of our flying season now. The DLE is on my 110 inch yak right now and doing good so far,but if I swap engines with this BME 115 I will probably have to also shuffle some gear around to make it ballance with the lighter engne, But I have all winter to make it work.........I will have to see, more power is always good

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

If you change from a Falcon to Rcexcell you will have to re-time your engine,,, Don't forget that. Any twin rcexel ignition will work, they are all timed the same.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

I think Tom chraged me about $5.00 or $10.00 for the reed block. The carb was another story. $65.00-$75.00? Can't remember since it's been a bit over a year. That's what happens when you put stuff off for another day. You get left out of the cheap parts group.

altavillan

My Feedback: (1)

The Falcon ignition is timed by measuring 5 to 6mm between the center of the magnet and center of the sensor. RCXL is timed about 28* advanced, that comes out to about a hair less than 1/4" between the magnet edge and sensor edge. I time mine by how it sounds when running, and with a tuned exhaust it needs to be a little less advanced.

The plastic block is the free one, the aluminum one is $100 ish.

oncebitten

My Feedback: (3)

thanks for the info on timing...