SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
#3152
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: , FL
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I guess what made me post that was the thought of running 2 stroke oil at 1.25oz per gallon of gasoline[&:]
2.5oz per 2 gallons .. 100/1
You lucky they don't have parents
I mean by the time the oil runs down the side of your measuring container, how much oil really made it into the gas
It's not for everyone imo
There's a fella I know at the field and the best advice I could give him is,, well, I can't even say it here.. but I stopped "helping" him []
"program his radio" "drill his props" check his cg, break in his engine? prop? etc. etc... topped off with "I don't use the internet"... "waste of time"
2.5oz per 2 gallons .. 100/1
You lucky they don't have parents
I mean by the time the oil runs down the side of your measuring container, how much oil really made it into the gas
It's not for everyone imo
There's a fella I know at the field and the best advice I could give him is,, well, I can't even say it here.. but I stopped "helping" him []
"program his radio" "drill his props" check his cg, break in his engine? prop? etc. etc... topped off with "I don't use the internet"... "waste of time"
#3155
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
MTK,
You have mentioned most all the things I might have guessed, so how about a blocked vent line. Anyway maybe it's time to take us all out of our misery and spill the beans.
Karol
You have mentioned most all the things I might have guessed, so how about a blocked vent line. Anyway maybe it's time to take us all out of our misery and spill the beans.
Karol
#3157
Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Thomaston,
CT
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: Gungadin
Antique
''GHQ'' stands for ''Gosh How Quiet'', cause none could get them to run.
Antique
''GHQ'' stands for ''Gosh How Quiet'', cause none could get them to run.
#3159
Senior Member
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: karolh
MTK,
You have mentioned most all the things I might have guessed, so how about a blocked vent line. Anyway maybe it's time to take us all out of our misery and spill the beans.
Karol
MTK,
You have mentioned most all the things I might have guessed, so how about a blocked vent line. Anyway maybe it's time to take us all out of our misery and spill the beans.
Karol
The carb is waaaay down in the engine compartment which makes it hard to see the details and a little hard to reach; it's dark down there. Apparently when I installed the clevis I didn't snap it closed like I thought. It worked it's way completely off the arm. My plane has no cowl that makes it easy to access the carb...I have to access it from the top and the adjustment screws are fish and find through the fuse. Kind of a pain but manageable
The coned end screw that adjusts low throttle had been removed to avoid servo overtravel or binding. With no back stop so to speak, and clevis to hold the position, throttle would spring closed practically fully.
The big clue to me should have come when I flushed the "flooded" engine....I expected it to gush out fuel but only a few drops fell out. Choking did nothing since the thottle wasn't opened in reality. Practically no fuel was drawn. The other clue came when turning the engine over by hand; I could feel the bump but it was weak, like it had no fuel mix.
Bravo DaveL...you got the answer
Point is check the really obvious stuff first, even the stuff you are sure you didn't screw up. How many times have I connected and disconnected the throttle clevis in the last 7 months? At least a couple dozen
Thanks for playing
#3160
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Somewhere,
DC
Posts: 9,825
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: rmathews
I still have a GHQ,has compression,not as good as SAP180,but might run or walk!My vote is the Super Cyclone,great old sparker.Rich
ORIGINAL: Gungadin
Antique
''GHQ'' stands for ''Gosh How Quiet'', cause none could get them to run.
Antique
''GHQ'' stands for ''Gosh How Quiet'', cause none could get them to run.
#3161
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: MTK
Karol, this was my answer in the pattern thread where we speak of using the engine in much higher performance demand application. Someone, Joystick I think, almost guessed it but gave up too quickly.
The carb is waaaay down in the engine compartment which makes it hard to see the details and a little hard to reach; it's dark down there. Apparently when I installed the clevis I didn't snap it closed like I thought. It worked it's way completely off the arm. My plane has no cowl that makes it easy to access the carb...I have to access it from the top and the adjustment screws are fish and find through the fuse. Kind of a pain but manageable
The coned end screw that adjusts low throttle had been removed to avoid servo overtravel or binding. With no back stop so to speak, and clevis to hold the position, throttle would spring closed practically fully.
The big clue to me should have come when I flushed the "flooded" engine....I expected it to gush out fuel but only a few drops fell out. Choking did nothing since the thottle wasn't opened in reality. Practically no fuel was drawn. The other clue came when turning the engine over by hand; I could feel the bump but it was weak, like it had no fuel mix.
Bravo DaveL...you got the answer
Point is check the really obvious stuff first, even the stuff you are sure you didn't screw up. How many times have I connected and disconnected the throttle clevis in the last 7 months? At least a couple dozen
Thanks for playing
ORIGINAL: karolh
MTK,
You have mentioned most all the things I might have guessed, so how about a blocked vent line. Anyway maybe it's time to take us all out of our misery and spill the beans.
Karol
MTK,
You have mentioned most all the things I might have guessed, so how about a blocked vent line. Anyway maybe it's time to take us all out of our misery and spill the beans.
Karol
The carb is waaaay down in the engine compartment which makes it hard to see the details and a little hard to reach; it's dark down there. Apparently when I installed the clevis I didn't snap it closed like I thought. It worked it's way completely off the arm. My plane has no cowl that makes it easy to access the carb...I have to access it from the top and the adjustment screws are fish and find through the fuse. Kind of a pain but manageable
The coned end screw that adjusts low throttle had been removed to avoid servo overtravel or binding. With no back stop so to speak, and clevis to hold the position, throttle would spring closed practically fully.
The big clue to me should have come when I flushed the "flooded" engine....I expected it to gush out fuel but only a few drops fell out. Choking did nothing since the thottle wasn't opened in reality. Practically no fuel was drawn. The other clue came when turning the engine over by hand; I could feel the bump but it was weak, like it had no fuel mix.
Bravo DaveL...you got the answer
Point is check the really obvious stuff first, even the stuff you are sure you didn't screw up. How many times have I connected and disconnected the throttle clevis in the last 7 months? At least a couple dozen
Thanks for playing
#3162
My Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Miles City,
MT
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I'm sure that this is posted somewhere in the blogs, but to save time I would like to know what the prop of choice seems to be for the Syssa. I was using a Zinger 18-6 and unfortunately it got broke so I used what I had, a 18-8-14. Now I seem to have lost the RPM . Living in rural eastern Montana I can't just go down to a local hobby shop so before I order one I would like some feed back.
#3163
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: California
Posts: 3,943
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: ralphp
I'm sure that this is posted somewhere in the blogs, but to save time I would like to know what the prop of choice seems to be for the Syssa. I was using a Zinger 18-6 and unfortunately it got broke so I used what I had, a 18-8-14. Now I seem to have lost the RPM . Living in rural eastern Montana I can't just go down to a local hobby shop so before I order one I would like some feed back.
I'm sure that this is posted somewhere in the blogs, but to save time I would like to know what the prop of choice seems to be for the Syssa. I was using a Zinger 18-6 and unfortunately it got broke so I used what I had, a 18-8-14. Now I seem to have lost the RPM . Living in rural eastern Montana I can't just go down to a local hobby shop so before I order one I would like some feed back.
#3165
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: ralphp
I'm sure that this is posted somewhere in the blogs, but to save time I would like to know what the prop of choice seems to be for the Syssa. I was using a Zinger 18-6 and unfortunately it got broke so I used what I had, a 18-8-14. Now I seem to have lost the RPM . Living in rural eastern Montana I can't just go down to a local hobby shop so before I order one I would like some feed back.
I'm sure that this is posted somewhere in the blogs, but to save time I would like to know what the prop of choice seems to be for the Syssa. I was using a Zinger 18-6 and unfortunately it got broke so I used what I had, a 18-8-14. Now I seem to have lost the RPM . Living in rural eastern Montana I can't just go down to a local hobby shop so before I order one I would like some feed back.
#3169
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ossining,
NY
Posts: 2,819
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: ol_seabee
I paid ~$1200 for my 3w 100 13 years ago and $1500 for my 3w 150 11 years ago and $319 for my DLE 30 1 year ago
My DLE 30cc does everything my other 2 gassers do and any ''problems'' barely worth mention
runs perfect imo
The DLE30 performs VERY SIMILAR to my larger 3ws
Love it and will buy a DLE55 next (soon) followed by DLE30 again and then DLE55 again
That's my projected plan
2 each DLE 30 and 55 is all I need
It's nice to have the larger gassers for occasional extraordinary ''show''
''hey, 10 foot wingspan'' lol
honest opinion
I paid ~$1200 for my 3w 100 13 years ago and $1500 for my 3w 150 11 years ago and $319 for my DLE 30 1 year ago
My DLE 30cc does everything my other 2 gassers do and any ''problems'' barely worth mention
runs perfect imo
The DLE30 performs VERY SIMILAR to my larger 3ws
Love it and will buy a DLE55 next (soon) followed by DLE30 again and then DLE55 again
That's my projected plan
2 each DLE 30 and 55 is all I need
It's nice to have the larger gassers for occasional extraordinary ''show''
''hey, 10 foot wingspan'' lol
honest opinion
Just asking, I haven't heard of this. The Syssa's rear induction/rear exhaust configuration is what is needed for pattern.
#3174
My Feedback: (22)
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: palm harbor,
FL
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I believe 3dhobby is going to release a pattern called Osiris..andy jesky is spear heading that for ben fisher of 3dhobby.looks like a great pattern ship if thats what you like.
#3175
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: Joystick TX
I am only running a Vess 18x6 because that was the ''best'' general purpose prop, recommended by Todd for the SAP, at the time I got my engine. . . . . . . Anyway, the Vess worked a little better for me than the Zinger 18x6 plus I like the looks of it and the balance is right on.
I am only running a Vess 18x6 because that was the ''best'' general purpose prop, recommended by Todd for the SAP, at the time I got my engine. . . . . . . Anyway, the Vess worked a little better for me than the Zinger 18x6 plus I like the looks of it and the balance is right on.
Some day when the winds are calm and I am bored with flying, I may test all three props to see if I can detect any major differences in flight. Yes, I will test them one at a time.