cloudancer03

My Feedback: (22)

okay maybe stupid but I am curious about prop diameters on a syssa.I always see an 18x6 or maybe an 18x8...but I never read posts trying bigger props like 19x8 or whatever.on the dle I see prop sizes all over the map..I have my funds ready to buy a 30ccmotor and am struggling with which brand.do I save some money and buy the dle or as I was originally thinking spend the extra money on the syssa 30..again I went thru some posts and either its the mentality making alot of ado about nothing where in the dle is concerned or because of the lesser quality you need to tinker to get everything correct.my 2c on syssa is that all the minor complaints whether or not its rings reed idle etc are rare to non existent on syssa.nearly every post here is how to improve on something already good.I guess I am always going dilerate with my mind about costs but unlike alot of guys I buy one engine and it has to last a long time ..I dont buy and trade them its going to be used a long time.

I guess I am trying to convince myself that I want the syssa badly lol.

MTK

I have run from a 15.5x12 apc to a 19x10 hybrid. My personal favorites are 17x12apc for pattern models and 19x10 special props that I carve and laminate myself, for sport. BUT I run a tuned pipe on mine and get the corresponding boost in performance.

No reason you couldn't use 18x8, or as large as 19x6, on the stock muffler. If you like to hear 9000 rpm screams, you won't get there with these larger props even on pipe. The 18x6 woodie on pipe turned around 9600 but on muffler around 8700. So it depends on what you are after. The engine just loves to spool up so prop it accordingly and don't bog it down too much. The engine will not perform as well at less than 8K.

cloudancer03

My Feedback: (22)

matt...I am going to install it on a seagull extra 260 180..talking with another pilot who bought a dle30 and even though it weighs 12 pounds it flies great .showed me some pics and a video.so I gotta beileve the syssa will do equally as well.with an 18x6 and stock muffler broken -in I hope to hover a little and pull up not at rocket speed but still go vertical and do some agressive aerobatics first time around..

MTK

I think that you are thinking about this the right way. Shoot for around 8500 rpm on the ground with the stock muffler, (probably an 18x8 or 19x6), and let it unload in the air. A 12 pound sport model will be hauled around with great authority by the SAP. I can't speak for dle's, I've not seen them run. I highly recommend the SAP tho. Great field manners also.

Oh one more thing....at the higher rpm that you are going to run, the engine will use more gas so use an appropriately sized tank. I use an 11 oz tank in my pattern set-up but only turn around 8200 in the air. I have plenty of gas for what I do.

For a sport application that turns at around 8800 in the air for example, I would use a 16 or 18 oz tank

Joystick TX

I am running the Syssa on a Giant Super Sportster, it has an 82" wing and weighs a little over 13 lbs, dry. It hovers a couple of clicks below 1/2 throttle, that position on the ground gives me about 7,000 rpm with the 18x6 Vess prop. I think if you plan on .5 oz per min. fuel consumption and size your tank with a couple of oz. extra you would be pretty safe. I'm using a 14 oz tank and very seldom use over half a tank during a 15 min. flight.

I don't think you would be unhappy with the performance of a plane that is a pound lighter than mine.

My Syssa starts on 2 flips 98% of the time. It runs great at all throttle positions. It comes with a pitts style muffler, I am using the optional muffler inserts, and it sounds great. Also, I like the looks of the Syssa, it screams quality. Mine was a present from me to me because I earned it and I wanted something special, like a Lexus vs. a Ford. Yes, I did get prior approval from the little woman.

cmoulder

I don't think you will regret going with the SAP 180. The package costs more, but it is complete and therefore is worth more. The quality is there, hands-down much better.

Check out the threads on the DLE. All new engines have some initial teething pains, but the Syssa's have been minuscule compared to most.

If noise it not a concern, for sport or aerobatic models use an 18x6 or 18.5x5.5 Vess and 87 octane gas on the stock muffler and let it scream. Loves the RPM's, and Todd Syssa has gotten over 22 lbs of thrust with just this combo.

Joystick TX

I think he gets 22 lbs with the tuned pipe and 17 lbs with the stock muffler on the Vess 18x6.

cmoulder

OK, thanks for the correction.

I forgot that he was using a tuned pipe on that one.

cloudancer03

My Feedback: (22)

everything you guys said is the reason I am convinced the syssa is the best route for me.with a dle I have to purchase a pitts style muffler whereas here its included.that item alone narrows the price gap considerably.as was said the fewer hicups on the field the better.I suspect in time I would get a cannister.but I am just your sunday flyer and dont fly competively.my flying style is a mixture of 3D and aerobatics ...I was going to go with a 14 ounce tank cause after 5 or 6 minutes I usually land.

I might try down the road a 20cc size gasser with a ultra stick just for the heck orf it.but my next plane after my seagull extra will likely be an extremeflight or 3Dhobby extra.

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

Another thing about the Syssa is it is alot smoother running than the DLE-30. I have a new version DLE-30 as well (It cost me like $25 after a trade for a YS-110s I had, and I am going to put it on a World Models 70 inch P-47) and I definitely prefer the Syssa hands down.

50%plane

My Feedback: (5)

I think that's a brand new engine too....

cloudancer03

My Feedback: (22)

oh I struggled but in the end I am going with todd..I wont fight my instincts and that engine is what I really want so I am going for it.

Joystick TX

I think you will be happy with the Syssa, it is a fine engine. I like the fact that the quality is high, each engine seems to run the same way even over several production runs.

The cost used to bother me, but when you add up the pitts style muffler, standoffs, and great ignition system (4.8V and low drain), it is hard to beat the value. The only thing I would like to have now is the ignition battery eliminator. I will add that later.

Like the hair commercial says, "you're worth it."

MTK

The IBEC really makes sense for the size plane we deal with in the 30cc class. It will save around 5 ozs of battery and switch harness and give the convenience of arming the ignition from the TX.

I helped test the SAP IBEC, use it in my SAP powered planes and highly recommend the device

cloudancer03

My Feedback: (22)

before the week is out I am contacting syssa and hope to be among the owners of the finest 30cc motor.and I agree with everything that comes when you add it in to the cost the difference with a dle is marginal.some would argue that and point to the bargain prices on ebay or wherever but do you know what your getting??if I had decided the other motor I would have gone with jody at valleyview like todd he is a respected vendor but todd is close and the motor is high on my wish list lol.and speaks of quality quality quality..

cmoulder

West Hurley is in the southern Catskill area, right?

If you want to drive a bit down to Orange County and see mine run, you are welcome. I fly at Black Dirt Squadron, which is near Florida, NY.

Do indeed get the Syssa IBEC at the same time. Incredibly handy and saves a lot of weight, with optical kill as well. I have many flights on mine (now approaching 200) and it has been flawless.

MTK

Lessee, 200 X 20 minutes avg= approaching 70 operational hours. Most people don't fly that much in 3 years. I've had similar experiences and I've abused mine quite a bit, running large props

Point is reliability is excellent.

cmoulder

Matt,

I'd say my average flight is about 12 minutes, but still that's a pretty fair amount of run time.

I switched out the 16 oz tank a while back because I was landing with a lot of fuel left over. Now I am running the 12 oz tank and still fly the intermediate twice consecutively with a very comfortable margin of fuel left over, even with the higher RPM's with the smaller diameter prop.

ralphp

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks for all the advise on what props work best. I went with the xoar 18 x 6 and love it. Tried an APC and cut my finger so wood was the answer. Also just came from another fun fly and the Syssa was again a big hit. Lots of dead sticks but none with the 180

ralphp

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks for all the advise on what props work best. I went with the xoar 18 x 6 and love it. Tried an APC and cut my finger so wood was the answer. Also just came from another fun fly and the Syssa was again a big hit. Lots of dead sticks but none with the 180

cloudancer03

My Feedback: (22)

spoke with todd today .will have my first sap 180 next week..man I have alot to learn..but am excited ..going to install it in a seagullextra 260 180..

tele1974

That Seagull is built like a tank in comparison to my EF Extra. I have crashed mine a number of times from dead sticks while learning 3d and after a few rekits its better then it was new. It is heavy in comparison to the 3d "kites" that are built now but a nice flying plane.

cloudancer03

My Feedback: (22)

I hear ya tele and I was going to sell the seagull but circumstances sort of stopped that.but I am confident at the skill level I am at it wont matter first time around.to be sure it wont be like flying my 3dhobby electrics but as an aerobatic ship it will fly just fine..if all goes well my second plane would be either the ef78 inch or a 3d hobby extra or ajslick with a cannister..by that time the engine will be broken in and I will have some stick time on it.I did speak to todd and today is the day I order and he said that I'll have it next week.itsa bit pricey but I would like to get the igntion kill system with the ibecand save a few more ounces.

what are you using for kill switch and what size capacity battery are you using.lastly what oil are you mixing with the gas.I have used amsoil in the past but would try either penzoil or royal purple.?

cmoulder

A leather work glove is needed for hand-starting with an APC prop.

Of course there are exceptions. I have seen MTK (Matt) start his SAP with APC prop bare handed. I don't know how he does it. Clearly his fingers have much stouter calluses than my dainty hands do.

MTK

Yes, true. The APC's have a razor sharp TE which is desired for highest prop efficiency. I use 600 grit paper to remove the razor sharpness but not anymore than that. Wood props do not compare in their sharpness and are always less efficient

I've cut my hands on the APCs used on YS's and glow 2 stroke all the time when these engines backfired. The SAP has never, not once, backfired when starting. Even when I had a small problem with the sparkplug cap fitting improperly (Todd replaced it for me), starting never backfired.

But to be extra safe, lately I've started to use a piece of 3/4" ID silicone tube on my middle finger to protect the skin. Works great. Try it!!

Bob's leather glove idea work great too. Home Depot and Lowe's carry the type with leather facing, for garden work.

So does a hi tork starter