Stickbuilder

Will Todd ever manufacture an engine in the 45 to 50 cc range? I have a pristine NIB Byron Originals Ryan ST-A, and I don't think that a 30cc (anyone's 30cc) engine has enough guts to swing enough prop for that one. How bout it Todd?

Bill, Waco Brother #1

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

How about a 60cc twin?

Stickbuilder

Nope, a twin will hang out both sides of the cowl. The ST-A has a narrow cowl. That's why I'm interested in a rear intake, rear exhaust engine.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

cmoulder

What is the AUW and wingspan of the ST-A?

The SAP on standard Pitts muffler produces about 18 lbs of thrust, which may be enough for a scale vintage racer. Speeds will likely be more scale-ish as well because the max thrust comes from using something like an 18x6 at 9K RPM.

cmoulder

Is it the same size/weight as the PT-20? As you know, a guy from [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8581419/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm]another thread[/link] successfully flew that model with the Saito 36cc gasser.

The SAP with standard Pitts muffler will produce probably (and I'm just totally guessing here) significantly more power than the Saito. Certainly not as cool-sounding as a 4-stroker, though.

Stickbuilder

The Byron Originals Ryan ST-A has a 90 inch wingspan. The all up weight should be in the mid 20 pound range. Problem with running a small displacement engine is the prop diameter. To be scale appearing, this one will need a prop in the 22-24 inch range. I don't believe that a 30cc engine is going to pass muster on that issue.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

skylarkmk1

A smaller prop that fits the engine for flying is fine as the prop is hard to see in the air. As noted, a smaller prop with the correct pitch turning at higher rpms may give scale speeds. And yes, a scale diameter prop at a lower rpm could accomplish the same but with a larger engine.

Swap out the flying prop with a static display prop for show.

The Syssa may be a bit on the smaller end for a mid 20 lb plane though.

What does Byron recomend for power.

FLYING-HIGH2

hi is anyone using this motor in a slipstream mx2 ?
when i order this engine which length of standoffs do i need ?
and what spinner adapter is everyone using ? tru turn ?
thank you.

Hog78

My Feedback: (36)

Had my trusty Syssa break a keyway today flipped prop one time after choke and backfire then nothing I guess I will be calling Todd Monday anyone change a keyway on this engine? I have the engine on a 10lb 13 oz dry Sbach by slipstream.

AJsToyz

Any one looking for one might check this out ..

http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=662107

I wish this add was there when I wanted one!! and it still looks tempting!

AJsToyz

Hog,

Todd wants them sent in , not sure how he has the hub set up.

Andy

Stickbuilder

G-38 John, but with a Byro Drive.

Joystick TX

There used to be a side-view of the engine posted here, but the last time I checked it would not open for me, I could only see the front view.

Anyway, the distance from the front of the prop hub (rear of the propeller or spinner) to the back of the engine crankcase (front of standoffs) is shown as 3.919". You can use that length to compute the standoff length you need once you get the prop hub to firewall or engine box distance for the MX2. The distance from the front of the prop hub to the rear of the carb mounting screws is 5.825" to give you an idea of how long the engine is not counting the prop shaft.

Joystick TX

I hate it when that happens. My keyway broke early this year, had one of the "soft" keys. The hub is pressed on and it is recommended that it be sent back for service. Got the engine back in about 1-1/2 weeks. I have had over 70 flying hours since then with no key problems. You may want to let Todd know if you want the old or new style hub.

cmoulder

I agree that a 30cc is probably a bit small for this model.

Maybe something like a ZDZ 40 F3A (also rear induction, rear exhaust) to keep it all under the cowl.

skylarkmk1

Whoa-ho Bill,

Got yourself a new avitar I see.

I would agree that the Syssa is too small compared to the G-38 with Byro drive.

Hog78

My Feedback: (36)

what is the new hub? thanks

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It involves a drill guide. The guide comes with a bolt/nut to clamp the assemble together; a drill of the right size to drill the spinner and back of the prop hub (you only have to drill it part way thru) ; two pins and two threaded bolts. To install the two pins lightly tap them into place and you are done!
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Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

My Syssa will be going up for sale in the near future. Great beautiful engine but the DLE30 fit my application better. Anyone interested can PM me or wait for my ad when I get time to post it.

Hog78

My Feedback: (36)

so is it mainly for spinners? is the prop bolt longer? thanks

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I don't think he did anything whith the prop bolt.

I have one of those spinners and the bolt is plenty long for 8" pitch

cmoulder

Would the Byro drive work with the Syssa, or is it designed specifically for the G38?

And is the Byro drive currently available?

MsgtRob

Yeah, me too! Mine broke first day out. Shipped back at my expense and it was repaired and returned in about 10 days.

I don't really buy into the soft key theory as much as the key is the weekest link. It's needed to protect the relatively small diameter prop shaft from twisting under an overload condition. I'm sure Todd is aware of the structural limitations and failure loads for each of his engines components and designed accordingly. It's a great insurance plan if only it had a field level repair. Just my $.02

I don't see any difference with the new hub when it comes to how it's mounted to the shaft. Is there? I still havn't received my order from July so I cant look at it and see. assuming my new engine comes with the new hub??

bigben

My Feedback: (24)

The hub is mounted the same. The depth of the teeth is less and the pin function is new, otherwise it is the same as the original that was on my engine. It sure takes the worry away if there is a backfire.

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

Also, the M3 tapped holes make it so you can pull it off for field repairs.