SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
10-02-2011, 06:15 PM
#4226
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
A good reason for a tapered shaft.
A magnet mounted under the hub can't come out from centrifugal force, the sensor mounts on a ring or bracket ..
A magnet mounted under the hub can't come out from centrifugal force, the sensor mounts on a ring or bracket ..
10-02-2011, 06:18 PM
#4227
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Rob,
I haven't lost a magnet....my continues to run well. Time will tell though.
Where are you flying your models at?
Regards
I haven't lost a magnet....my continues to run well. Time will tell though.
Where are you flying your models at?
Regards
10-02-2011, 07:10 PM
#4228
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Hey Scooter...
I fly on Edwards AFB Muroc Model Masters.
I've got three of these motors and each has been sent back for either the spun hub, lost magnet /oil leak from front bearing. Now another lost magnet.
How about you? Tail winds? Ave J?
I fly on Edwards AFB Muroc Model Masters.
I've got three of these motors and each has been sent back for either the spun hub, lost magnet /oil leak from front bearing. Now another lost magnet.
How about you? Tail winds? Ave J?
10-03-2011, 06:27 AM
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Look up 2 threads to see 2 ways to do a hub...First is one with no linkage and no electronic advance, the sensor wire comes out the bottom of the ring..Second is mechanical advamce..In both cases the magnet is mounted flat under the hub and can NOT come out...Only disadvantage to tjhis method is if the sensor goes bad the hub has to come off to replace it..Sensors rarely go bad...
10-03-2011, 08:48 AM
#4230
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: MsgtRob
Well, it happened again. One of my SAP 180's lost the magnet. I've contacted Todd and expect he'll make it right. Any one else seeing this ? My first spun the hub on the shaft....It'd be nice to have a field repair kit or some spare magnets to JB weld back in.
Well, it happened again. One of my SAP 180's lost the magnet. I've contacted Todd and expect he'll make it right. Any one else seeing this ? My first spun the hub on the shaft....It'd be nice to have a field repair kit or some spare magnets to JB weld back in.
10-03-2011, 10:07 AM
#4231
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: Antique
Look up 2 threads to see 2 ways to do a hub...First is one with no linkage and no electronic advance, the sensor wire comes out the bottom of the ring..Second is mechanical advamce..In both cases the magnet is mounted flat under the hub and can NOT come out...Only disadvantage to tjhis method is if the sensor goes bad the hub has to come off to replace it..Sensors rarely go bad...
Look up 2 threads to see 2 ways to do a hub...First is one with no linkage and no electronic advance, the sensor wire comes out the bottom of the ring..Second is mechanical advamce..In both cases the magnet is mounted flat under the hub and can NOT come out...Only disadvantage to tjhis method is if the sensor goes bad the hub has to come off to replace it..Sensors rarely go bad...
Curious, what would happen if one were to install a short length of shrink sleeve tubing around the section of prop hub that holds the magnet? Have you seen that set-up before? Thinking about doing that to my engines....I haven't lost any magnets in hundred's of flights so maybe I'm flying on borrowed time.
10-03-2011, 10:31 AM
#4232
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Could work if not too thick, the sensor mount could possibly touch the sleeve...Staking would work better..3W stakes theirs...Or a longer magnet in a deeper hole in the hub for more contact area. Yeah, I know, there will be some really dumb comments on that statement..
10-03-2011, 11:47 AM
#4233
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: Antique
Could work if not too thick, the sensor mount could possibly touch the sleeve...Staking would work better..3W stakes theirs...Or a longer magnet in a deeper hole in the hub for more contact area. Yeah, I know, there will be some really dumb comments on that statement..
Could work if not too thick, the sensor mount could possibly touch the sleeve...Staking would work better..3W stakes theirs...Or a longer magnet in a deeper hole in the hub for more contact area. Yeah, I know, there will be some really dumb comments on that statement..
The sensor clearance is around 0.030" so clearing the shrink tube should not be a problem
10-03-2011, 06:35 PM
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Havn't lost a magnet yet, after easily 150 plus flights, but did have the sensor go out on my DLE 55. I guess sometimes things just happen.
10-04-2011, 02:43 PM
#4235
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I received word from Todd. He wrote that he's seen a few others lose their magnets. He's sending a replacement magnet and new epoxy that's been tested to 15K RPM. I'll do the repairs this time and save the shipping and wait time. I see some good suggestions and possible solutions to the issue. I wonder if an interferance fit would solve it? make the hole smaller than the magnet. Heat the hub and freeze the magnet to install. We do the bearings and races on jet engines this way. There's usually a locking nut included though...
10-05-2011, 02:13 PM
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Good news- and bad news: I flew my Great Planes "BIG" stick today with the Syssa 30. It started pretty easy for a brand new motor. Got about 45 minutes on it flying and adjusting the carb. Idles nicely at 1800 and was doing 8400 with an APC 17X6 prop. Nice, very nice. The bad news is it is so light I now need to add 30 oz of nose weight to get the big stick to the" rearward" edge of the suggested CG range. Guess I'll spring for a G38. Brian
10-05-2011, 07:55 PM
#4238
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: Brian Smith
Good news- and bad news: I flew my Great Planes ''BIG'' stick today with the Syssa 30. It started pretty easy for a brand new motor. Got about 45 minutes on it flying and adjusting the carb. Idles nicely at 1800 and was doing 8400 with an APC 17X6 prop. Nice, very nice. The bad news is it is so light I now need to add 30 oz of nose weight to get the big stick to the'' rearward'' edge of the suggested CG range. Guess I'll spring for a G38. Brian
Good news- and bad news: I flew my Great Planes ''BIG'' stick today with the Syssa 30. It started pretty easy for a brand new motor. Got about 45 minutes on it flying and adjusting the carb. Idles nicely at 1800 and was doing 8400 with an APC 17X6 prop. Nice, very nice. The bad news is it is so light I now need to add 30 oz of nose weight to get the big stick to the'' rearward'' edge of the suggested CG range. Guess I'll spring for a G38. Brian
Hey Brian,
I have the Great Planes Giant Stick with a SAP 180 in it. (posted pictures earlier in this thread)is that what you have? If so, go to the greatplanes web site for the correct CG. It's listed wrong in the manual. (also previously posted here) Built as tail dragger it needed no weight up front other than both batteries in the forward compartment. I recommend you up the prop I use a Mejzlik 18 X 6 and get 8500-8600 on the ground. You should have no trouble getting the same. The Extra thrust is worth it!
10-05-2011, 08:13 PM
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
What is the wing span on the big stick. 30 oz plus the Syssa weight would be the equivilent to a DLE 55 and then some. Don't know were your electronics and batteries are but maybe you need to move them forward??
10-06-2011, 03:35 AM
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Thanks Guys..
The Syssa 30 on the big Stick is great for power. Even with only three tanks of gas thru it was running very nicely, and I was getting big powering loops. But it was very easy to see it was very tail heavy. I came home and balanced it and found it would take 30 oz of nose weight to get the CG to 6 inches from the LE. I see no easy way to do that. ( It never once tried to tip stall) I built mine as a tail dragger. I much prefer tail draggers. I put the tank that came with the model on the CG so gas at any level would not affect the CG. The G38 probably will "not" have as much power, but it'll fly fine for an old duffer like me. Brian
The Syssa 30 on the big Stick is great for power. Even with only three tanks of gas thru it was running very nicely, and I was getting big powering loops. But it was very easy to see it was very tail heavy. I came home and balanced it and found it would take 30 oz of nose weight to get the CG to 6 inches from the LE. I see no easy way to do that. ( It never once tried to tip stall) I built mine as a tail dragger. I much prefer tail draggers. I put the tank that came with the model on the CG so gas at any level would not affect the CG. The G38 probably will "not" have as much power, but it'll fly fine for an old duffer like me. Brian
10-06-2011, 03:39 AM
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
The big stick is 80 inch span... I'm an old school gas guy and always try to keep 12 inches between my radio gear and motor. I have a 4 cell 1650 battery just behind the fire wall with the ignition box and a 2000 5 cell battery in the servo area. About a standard set up I would guess. All Hitec 645 MG servos. Brian
ORIGINAL: Slow and Steady
What is the wing span on the big stick. 30 oz plus the Syssa weight would be the equivilent to a DLE 55 and then some. Don't know were your electronics and batteries are but maybe you need to move them forward??
What is the wing span on the big stick. 30 oz plus the Syssa weight would be the equivilent to a DLE 55 and then some. Don't know were your electronics and batteries are but maybe you need to move them forward??
10-06-2011, 03:45 AM
#4242
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: Brian Smith
Thanks Guys..
The Syssa 30 on the big Stick is great for power. Even with only three tanks of gas thru it was running very nicely, and I was getting big powering loops. But it was very easy to see it was very tail heavy. I came home and balanced it and found it would take 30 oz of nose weight to get the CG to 6 inches from the LE. I see no easy way to do that. ( It never once tried to tip stall) I built mine as a tail dragger. I much prefer tail draggers. I put the tank that came with the model on the CG so gas at any level would not affect the CG. The G38 probably will ''not'' have as much power, but it'll fly fine for an old duffer like me. Brian
Thanks Guys..
The Syssa 30 on the big Stick is great for power. Even with only three tanks of gas thru it was running very nicely, and I was getting big powering loops. But it was very easy to see it was very tail heavy. I came home and balanced it and found it would take 30 oz of nose weight to get the CG to 6 inches from the LE. I see no easy way to do that. ( It never once tried to tip stall) I built mine as a tail dragger. I much prefer tail draggers. I put the tank that came with the model on the CG so gas at any level would not affect the CG. The G38 probably will ''not'' have as much power, but it'll fly fine for an old duffer like me. Brian
Another old duffer....
10-06-2011, 03:53 AM
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Thanks old duffer.. . I can see no way with my set up that moving the equipment in the model is going to change the CG much. "and" when I add 30 oz of nose weight I'm right back to carrying the same weight. I looked at some copper and steel plates and some lead shot I have to try to figure the easy way out of this and I find none. Planning backwards is not near as easy as planning head. (grin) Brian
. I can see no way with my set up that moving the equipment in the model is going to change the CG much. "and" when I add 30 oz of nose weight I'm right back to carrying the same weight. I looked at some copper and steel plates and some lead shot I have to try to figure the easy way out of this and I find none. Planning backwards is not near as easy as planning head. (grin) Brian
ORIGINAL: ahicks
If you COULD get the plane to balance, the G38 vs. Syssa will make a very noticable difference in the way the plane flys. I flew my Giant Sportster on a Q42 (same/similar weight as G38). The 2 lb.+ weight savings (16 lb. + vs. 14 lbs.) going to the Syssa has a dramatic effect on the way it flys in almost every aspect - including landing speeds.
Another old duffer....
ORIGINAL: Brian Smith
Thanks Guys..
The Syssa 30 on the big Stick is great for power. Even with only three tanks of gas thru it was running very nicely, and I was getting big powering loops. But it was very easy to see it was very tail heavy. I came home and balanced it and found it would take 30 oz of nose weight to get the CG to 6 inches from the LE. I see no easy way to do that. ( It never once tried to tip stall) I built mine as a tail dragger. I much prefer tail draggers. I put the tank that came with the model on the CG so gas at any level would not affect the CG. The G38 probably will ''not'' have as much power, but it'll fly fine for an old duffer like me. Brian
Thanks Guys..
The Syssa 30 on the big Stick is great for power. Even with only three tanks of gas thru it was running very nicely, and I was getting big powering loops. But it was very easy to see it was very tail heavy. I came home and balanced it and found it would take 30 oz of nose weight to get the CG to 6 inches from the LE. I see no easy way to do that. ( It never once tried to tip stall) I built mine as a tail dragger. I much prefer tail draggers. I put the tank that came with the model on the CG so gas at any level would not affect the CG. The G38 probably will ''not'' have as much power, but it'll fly fine for an old duffer like me. Brian
Another old duffer....
10-06-2011, 04:34 AM
#4244
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: Brian Smith
Thanks old duffer... I can see no way with my set up that moving the equipment in the model is going to change the CG much. ''and'' when I add 30 oz of nose weight I'm right back to carrying the same weight. I looked at some copper and steel plates and some lead shot I have to try to figure the easy way out of this and I find none. Planning backwards is not near as easy as planning head. (grin) Brian
Thanks old duffer..
. I can see no way with my set up that moving the equipment in the model is going to change the CG much. ''and'' when I add 30 oz of nose weight I'm right back to carrying the same weight. I looked at some copper and steel plates and some lead shot I have to try to figure the easy way out of this and I find none. Planning backwards is not near as easy as planning head. (grin) Brian
ORIGINAL: ahicks
If you COULD get the plane to balance, the G38 vs. Syssa will make a very noticable difference in the way the plane flys. I flew my Giant Sportster on a Q42 (same/similar weight as G38). The 2 lb.+ weight savings (16 lb. + vs. 14 lbs.) going to the Syssa has a dramatic effect on the way it flys in almost every aspect - including landing speeds.
Another old duffer....
ORIGINAL: Brian Smith
Thanks Guys..
The Syssa 30 on the big Stick is great for power. Even with only three tanks of gas thru it was running very nicely, and I was getting big powering loops. But it was very easy to see it was very tail heavy. I came home and balanced it and found it would take 30 oz of nose weight to get the CG to 6 inches from the LE. I see no easy way to do that. ( It never once tried to tip stall) I built mine as a tail dragger. I much prefer tail draggers. I put the tank that came with the model on the CG so gas at any level would not affect the CG. The G38 probably will ''not'' have as much power, but it'll fly fine for an old duffer like me. Brian
Thanks Guys..
The Syssa 30 on the big Stick is great for power. Even with only three tanks of gas thru it was running very nicely, and I was getting big powering loops. But it was very easy to see it was very tail heavy. I came home and balanced it and found it would take 30 oz of nose weight to get the CG to 6 inches from the LE. I see no easy way to do that. ( It never once tried to tip stall) I built mine as a tail dragger. I much prefer tail draggers. I put the tank that came with the model on the CG so gas at any level would not affect the CG. The G38 probably will ''not'' have as much power, but it'll fly fine for an old duffer like me. Brian
Another old duffer....
10-06-2011, 06:22 AM
#4245
Senior Member
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: ahicks
Have you considered moving the engine forward an inch or so using some ply disks for shims?
Have you considered moving the engine forward an inch or so using some ply disks for shims?
Brian, that shouldn't be a big deal for you if you are the old duffer you say you are. I suspect you know how to stick some wood together. Some 1/16" aircraft ply doublers to couple the balsa ends will work very well. Some glass on the outside will secure things well. Just a suggestion.
10-06-2011, 05:09 PM
#4246
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Brian,
The correct CG is 7" NOT 6". It's listed here http://www.greatplanes.com/techsupport/technotes.html They made a mistake in the manual as I mentioned a couple of times in this thread.
I've been flying mine for two years now. With two batteries in the forward compartment on the bottom of the fuel tank in the stock position. You don't need the tank on the CG for this one. I also have the ignition box munted on the firewall as you can see in the pics. CG balances perfect with NO weight added! Up the prop, correct the CG and you'll have a blast with this combination!
Cheers
Rob
The correct CG is 7" NOT 6". It's listed here http://www.greatplanes.com/techsupport/technotes.html They made a mistake in the manual as I mentioned a couple of times in this thread.
I've been flying mine for two years now. With two batteries in the forward compartment on the bottom of the fuel tank in the stock position. You don't need the tank on the CG for this one. I also have the ignition box munted on the firewall as you can see in the pics. CG balances perfect with NO weight added! Up the prop, correct the CG and you'll have a blast with this combination!
Cheers
Rob
10-10-2011, 04:25 AM
#4249
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Has anyone removed the choke plate on the Syssa?
I may need to remove it to mount it in the OMP 80" Edge.
I think there will be enough room to cover the carb with my finger to choke it and I'm wondering
if a spacer might be needed on the screw that captures the choke plate?
Thanks
Bob
I may need to remove it to mount it in the OMP 80" Edge.
I think there will be enough room to cover the carb with my finger to choke it and I'm wondering
if a spacer might be needed on the screw that captures the choke plate?
Thanks
Bob
10-10-2011, 05:12 AM
#4250
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I removed it from the engine on my Giant Super Sportster. I put a rubber stopper on the end of a Nyrod so I could choke it remotely. Works great. Pictures are in my gallery.