SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
#5076
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
You can measure lever height with a straight edge and caliper, but that doesn't sound like the problem.
Anyway, I'm still waiting to get my engine back from Syssa.
I really want to fly that Rascal...
Anyway, I'm still waiting to get my engine back from Syssa.
I really want to fly that Rascal...
#5078
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Thanks guys, I'll take the motor off and pull the carb apart and check the screen, I can not get the cover off the carb, 1 of the stand off's is in the way. I cany fly it since the plane from the wings back is a total loss.
I'll post the results of the screen inspection.
I'll post the results of the screen inspection.
#5079
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
So sorry to hear that you pranged your model, but the first couple of dead sticks should have rung a bell and made you realise that something was amiss.
Karol
Karol
#5080
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
An update on the engine I sent back- I sent an e mail and left a voice mail about how it was coming, and what I would owe (also asked for the upgraded muffler) and was getting concerned since I hadnt heard anything back.
Then I get home from flying today and my engine with new muffler is sitting on my doorstep.
Todd also sent me an e mail asking that I get a hold of him if I have any problems getting it going.
I'll have to get it mounted up and see.
Then I get home from flying today and my engine with new muffler is sitting on my doorstep.
Todd also sent me an e mail asking that I get a hold of him if I have any problems getting it going.
I'll have to get it mounted up and see.
#5082
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: hobby_man
It took me 13 tries to figure out why the motor would not run in the air.
darn thing ran fine on the ground after I got the new carb!
It took me 13 tries to figure out why the motor would not run in the air.
darn thing ran fine on the ground after I got the new carb!
Now that you know why it won't run in the air with the new carb, what was the problem? Cowl air pressure changes, cooling, or something else?
#5083
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
How about crud in the fuel supply? Cleaning a carb. an putting in a kit is only step one. Change all fuel filters and inspect fuel tanks for possible sources of crud.
#5085
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: Joystick TX
I'm confused again. You said you replaced the old carb with a new one and that it ran good on the ground, but not in the air. Also, the old carb had junk in the filter which explained why the engine ran so bad for 13 flights.
Now that you know why it won't run in the air with the new carb, what was the problem? Cowl air pressure changes, cooling, or something else?
ORIGINAL: hobby_man
It took me 13 tries to figure out why the motor would not run in the air.
darn thing ran fine on the ground after I got the new carb!
It took me 13 tries to figure out why the motor would not run in the air.
darn thing ran fine on the ground after I got the new carb!
I'm confused again. You said you replaced the old carb with a new one and that it ran good on the ground, but not in the air. Also, the old carb had junk in the filter which explained why the engine ran so bad for 13 flights.
Now that you know why it won't run in the air with the new carb, what was the problem? Cowl air pressure changes, cooling, or something else?
10 flights with the old carb 3 flights with the new.
Cooling? what is the engine temp suposed to be? My telemetry says the temp is at 350 F, measured on the windward side of the jug, 1 inch down the jug from the plug.
I tried blocking several area's of the cowel to redirect the air flow with no changes in temp.
#5086
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: JohnB96041
How about crud in the fuel supply? Cleaning a carb. an putting in a kit is only step one. Change all fuel filters and inspect fuel tanks for possible sources of crud.
How about crud in the fuel supply? Cleaning a carb. an putting in a kit is only step one. Change all fuel filters and inspect fuel tanks for possible sources of crud.
All of my fuel lines/tanks/caddy/filters are clean
I am stumped at this point.
#5087
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Still trying to make sense of what is going on with your engine.
Back in May you had six flights, your engine started and ran good, then in Juneyour motor started running badly; the carb had crap in the filter. It seems odd that your engine would run okay for six flights if the crap in the carb came with the engine.
In Juneyou put on a new carb, your motor ran good,then your motor started running bad again. You said it was running good at high and low speeds. After 15 minutes of flying, time to land, it burps spits sputters, and shuts down while turning base. Could have been overheating; usually you would have noticed the engine sagging. Could also have been cowl pressure. Too late now, but anytime overheating or cowl pressure is suspected, it is best to fly without the cowl.
Did you check the filter screen in carb #2? I'm not clear on your answer to that question yet.
You also mentioned having questions about the cylinder head temps you were getting, from 240 to 350, which seems high, but there are so many variables the measurements are not all that meaningful. You said baffle changes in the cowl did not reduce the temp. When that doesn't work, it is good to make sure the cooling air exit area is at least 3x the inlet area.
Another concern you had was the pressure inside the cowl causing the carb settings to change, that can also be related to not enough cooling air exit area. Or a vent tube must be run from the carb vent back into the fuselage where the pressure is stable. Usually, the engine will not run right during different speeds and attitudes.
Back in May you had six flights, your engine started and ran good, then in Juneyour motor started running badly; the carb had crap in the filter. It seems odd that your engine would run okay for six flights if the crap in the carb came with the engine.
In Juneyou put on a new carb, your motor ran good,then your motor started running bad again. You said it was running good at high and low speeds. After 15 minutes of flying, time to land, it burps spits sputters, and shuts down while turning base. Could have been overheating; usually you would have noticed the engine sagging. Could also have been cowl pressure. Too late now, but anytime overheating or cowl pressure is suspected, it is best to fly without the cowl.
Did you check the filter screen in carb #2? I'm not clear on your answer to that question yet.
You also mentioned having questions about the cylinder head temps you were getting, from 240 to 350, which seems high, but there are so many variables the measurements are not all that meaningful. You said baffle changes in the cowl did not reduce the temp. When that doesn't work, it is good to make sure the cooling air exit area is at least 3x the inlet area.
Another concern you had was the pressure inside the cowl causing the carb settings to change, that can also be related to not enough cooling air exit area. Or a vent tube must be run from the carb vent back into the fuselage where the pressure is stable. Usually, the engine will not run right during different speeds and attitudes.
#5088
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I was at a Warbird fly in and my engine refused to cooperate. I pulled my cowl and made adjustments to the needles and it seemed to make no difference. I pulled the carb cover and cleaned the screen (it was not bad at all). I went through this several times and could not get this engine to run propperly and it was very difficult just to get started. More out of frustration than any rational thought, I removed both needles, flooded the voids where the needles go with fuel and spun my engine over with my electric starter. I then replaced the needles, set them at 1.5 turns out and the booger started right up. I reset my tune and flew fine for the rest of the day. I did not have a filter on my fuel system at this time. The engine was/is a DLE-20.
You might want to flush out your mixture needle ventris
You might want to flush out your mixture needle ventris
#5089
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Great advice.
It is amazing how small the particles are that can cause gas engine problems. Sometimes, the screen looks perfectly clean, but it has a wax-like film that won't let any fuel through. I always use a squeeze bulb to make sure gas can shoot through the screen..
It is amazing how small the particles are that can cause gas engine problems. Sometimes, the screen looks perfectly clean, but it has a wax-like film that won't let any fuel through. I always use a squeeze bulb to make sure gas can shoot through the screen..
#5090
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
My fuel container has two filters and I have a filter in line between the gas tank and carb. However, I regularly find a lint like fine debris in the internal carb filter of my DLE 55. I gingerly scrape it out with a toothpick. Don't recall doing it with the Syssa, but may have at some point. I have done it at least 2 or 3 times on the DLE. The lint is barely noticeable until I start to lightly scrape it from the screen. I wonder if it has something to do with the alcohol in the gas?
#5091
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Could be. I know there is a lot of variation in gas here due to all the different brands, ethanol, etc. Also, some of the gas stations don't have a great filter at the pump.
I have over 500 hours on my engine now and have cleaned the carb filter four times, usually after the engine starts getting flaky. I think I will go to a 50 hour cleaning to prevent problems. I also have filters in line with filters in line with filters, etc. and junk still gets past them all.
I have over 500 hours on my engine now and have cleaned the carb filter four times, usually after the engine starts getting flaky. I think I will go to a 50 hour cleaning to prevent problems. I also have filters in line with filters in line with filters, etc. and junk still gets past them all.
#5092
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
By the way, after about 8 flights the new design Syssa muffler is holding up well. I have my fingers crossed. The approach is similar to your fix, with a more direct bolt just through the front plate.
#5093
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I think you can uncross your fingers with the new muffler. Todd did a lot of work on the design and testing, both in his his shop and in the field, before he released it for production. Glad he did all that to make sure it was a true fix and not just a band-aid.
My fix is holding up well on my engine. I haven't heard from MSgtRob for quite a while, hope his is doing well too.
My fix is holding up well on my engine. I haven't heard from MSgtRob for quite a while, hope his is doing well too.
#5094
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Well, I got a chance to run the engine after getting it back from Syssa.
It was really tough to get to start, and didn't want to idle down well, but the longer I ran it the better it got.
2 flights on the Rascal 110 went well, but both dead sticked.
I think I just need to run a couple gallons through.
So far, the upgraded muffler hasn't thrown any screws, but does leak a bit of residue where the down tubes meet the body of the muffler.
It was really tough to get to start, and didn't want to idle down well, but the longer I ran it the better it got.
2 flights on the Rascal 110 went well, but both dead sticked.
I think I just need to run a couple gallons through.
So far, the upgraded muffler hasn't thrown any screws, but does leak a bit of residue where the down tubes meet the body of the muffler.
#5095
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Glad you got your plane down okay. I don't understand the deadsticks; probably acarbadjustment issue.
Did you fly without the cowl to make sure cooling and pressure changes are not going to cause a problem on the maiden flight? It is a good idea to also not try to get an idle below about 2K till you have the engine broken in a bit.
Did you fly without the cowl to make sure cooling and pressure changes are not going to cause a problem on the maiden flight? It is a good idea to also not try to get an idle below about 2K till you have the engine broken in a bit.
#5096
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Yeah, no cowl. It also won't let you even try to idle that low.
I had no bubbles in the fuel lines, until firing it up for a 3rd flight when I could see some coming from that dang T.
At low rpm it would stop firing like someone shut it off. Sometimes it would keep running and sometimes it won't.
I hope new fuel T is the cure, and I plan to recheck carb adjustment- as soon as coffee is brewed I'm heading to the field.
I had no bubbles in the fuel lines, until firing it up for a 3rd flight when I could see some coming from that dang T.
At low rpm it would stop firing like someone shut it off. Sometimes it would keep running and sometimes it won't.
I hope new fuel T is the cure, and I plan to recheck carb adjustment- as soon as coffee is brewed I'm heading to the field.
#5097
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I two am also having problems with dead sticks it seams that almost every second flight it goes dead stick. I have a question for all you people that say your engine is running perfictly just how much time and how long did you all run your engines in the test stands and how much tinkering did it take to get it running so that it is reliable . So far i have run 2 gallons of gas mixed at 40-1 with good gas and quality 2 stroke oil and now have changed over to a 50-1 synthetic mix it is less oil mess on the plane but still not running all that great. For me i think i a dead stick is not an option for my 80" war Bird and they always happen at the worst moment .
Cheers.
Cheers.
#5098
My Feedback: (2)
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I wrote this in another string a couple of days ago. I think it might apply here as well?
"Whatever you do, and however you do it, just keep in mind that the best ground tuned engine in the world will STILL very likely require some adjusting once airborne. Point being, don't get carried away with it (adjusting on the ground/test stand), and don't waste a lot of time on it when you could be flying. In the end all you're trying to do is get it running good enough to get it airborne?
With that in mind, my experience has been that a rich engine rarely quits. To that end, I leave both needles fat when adjusting on the ground - so unplanned glider practice is minimized? THEN, once airborne, you can fine tune with an educated guess on which way you need to go to get to optimum (usually a compromise you can live with, seldom perfect)."
The take with you point is that a rich engine rarely quits in the air. Many guys are setting up the low speed as lean as possible, looking for a smooth idle, concerned that it's going to "load up" - and that's biting them in the butt once airborne. That's not the plan when setting up a gasser. Properly set on idle that engine should actually be running kind of uneven, not hitting on every stroke? These engines are pretty capable of running rich without loading up to the point they'll get you in trouble because of it..... -Al
"Whatever you do, and however you do it, just keep in mind that the best ground tuned engine in the world will STILL very likely require some adjusting once airborne. Point being, don't get carried away with it (adjusting on the ground/test stand), and don't waste a lot of time on it when you could be flying. In the end all you're trying to do is get it running good enough to get it airborne?
With that in mind, my experience has been that a rich engine rarely quits. To that end, I leave both needles fat when adjusting on the ground - so unplanned glider practice is minimized? THEN, once airborne, you can fine tune with an educated guess on which way you need to go to get to optimum (usually a compromise you can live with, seldom perfect)."
The take with you point is that a rich engine rarely quits in the air. Many guys are setting up the low speed as lean as possible, looking for a smooth idle, concerned that it's going to "load up" - and that's biting them in the butt once airborne. That's not the plan when setting up a gasser. Properly set on idle that engine should actually be running kind of uneven, not hitting on every stroke? These engines are pretty capable of running rich without loading up to the point they'll get you in trouble because of it..... -Al
#5099
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: ahicks
With that in mind, my experience has been that a rich engine rarely quits. To that end, I leave both needles fat when adjusting on the ground - so unplanned glider practice is minimized? THEN, once airborne, you can fine tune with an educated guess on which way you need to go to get to optimum (usually a compromise you can live with, seldom perfect).''
The take with you point is that a rich engine rarely quits in the air. Many guys are setting up the low speed as lean as possible, looking for a smooth idle, concerned that it's going to ''load up'' - and that's biting them in the butt once airborne. That's not the plan when setting up a gasser. Properly set on idle that engine should actually be running kind of uneven, not hitting on every stroke? These engines are pretty capable of running rich without loading up to the point they'll get you in trouble because of it..... -Al
With that in mind, my experience has been that a rich engine rarely quits. To that end, I leave both needles fat when adjusting on the ground - so unplanned glider practice is minimized? THEN, once airborne, you can fine tune with an educated guess on which way you need to go to get to optimum (usually a compromise you can live with, seldom perfect).''
The take with you point is that a rich engine rarely quits in the air. Many guys are setting up the low speed as lean as possible, looking for a smooth idle, concerned that it's going to ''load up'' - and that's biting them in the butt once airborne. That's not the plan when setting up a gasser. Properly set on idle that engine should actually be running kind of uneven, not hitting on every stroke? These engines are pretty capable of running rich without loading up to the point they'll get you in trouble because of it..... -Al
This should be a "gas engine" sticky.
I whole heartedly agree.
That's exactly how I made the first dozen flights with my engine... set it rich and let it fly.
Not a single deadstick after I set it that way.
You might not get the best power output initially, but it is easier to tweak the needles down a bit at a time as it breaks in.
If you get a deadstick, you've gone too far.
#5100
My Feedback: (16)
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
The new people seem to want the engine to run smooth at mid range and keep tweaking the needles until they get a lean flame out and resulting dead stick.
I like to tune the High Speed needle a little rich on the ground at first like explained in the previous post and then tune to how the engine performs in flight. I listen to how the engine accelerates in flight from mid range to full throttle. A sagging sound on acceleration is a sure sign of being too lean. Try some different settings and listen, to learn what I'm talking about?
The low speed needle will effect the high speed needle a little. If you readjust the low speed needle, you need to take notice of your high speed in flight performance also.
I try to set the low speed as lean as possible and still have good acceleration from idle.
A slow reduction of idle speed to a lower value when you close the throttle is a dead give away to the idle being too lean.
A too lean idle will result in the engine failing to respond when you advance the throttle from idle. The engine may even quit.
I like to tune the High Speed needle a little rich on the ground at first like explained in the previous post and then tune to how the engine performs in flight. I listen to how the engine accelerates in flight from mid range to full throttle. A sagging sound on acceleration is a sure sign of being too lean. Try some different settings and listen, to learn what I'm talking about?
The low speed needle will effect the high speed needle a little. If you readjust the low speed needle, you need to take notice of your high speed in flight performance also.
I try to set the low speed as lean as possible and still have good acceleration from idle.
A slow reduction of idle speed to a lower value when you close the throttle is a dead give away to the idle being too lean.
A too lean idle will result in the engine failing to respond when you advance the throttle from idle. The engine may even quit.