ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

"It goes from a high idle to a real low idle and may die. Even if it doesn't die before landing, when the throttle is opened it coughs and dies then. It is not rich, it just dies."

This is lean a lean engine being described, not a rich one. It's quiting because it's running out of gas. Fatten the low speed up (1/8-1/4 turn?), adjust the idle speed so it idles at a decent rpm and try that?

The high idle/low idle is almost always being caused by a hot combustion chamber (unless you're talking about a DLE). That temp itself is not the problem. When you shut the throttle down there's not enough fuel coming in to cool the combustion chamber down, and it's not coming down until it cools? That's the problem... Yes, it comes down eventually, but you can skip this waiting period by running a richer low speed mixture that will throw more fuel in there to cool it down - right now.

When it comes to cooling, the fuel mixture is as critical a factor as any other!

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

Thanks for the idea. but I've been there and done that with both needles.
Messed with the low till I couldn't stand it anymore, but no change.

The 201 carb works fine with all the same gear, and with normal adjustments.

For whatever reason, this particular motor, (and me) don't like the 813 accelerator carb.
It was made for industrial uses where pumping the trigger somehow made the tool work better, but not my motor.

hyflyer9

Any problems in the fuel lines and filters or the tank will do the same as well .

Joystick TX

When I first got my engine, I had the same problem, high to low idle. Landed long a bunch of times. I found ahicks post on here, made the adjustment,and he was 100% correct. Worked like a charm.Most of the problems I had with this engine have been operator error.

The guys at the field who see me fly on a regular basis are always shocked if I ever have a dead stick landing or a hard starting problem with this engine. I do20-30 T&G's per flight and never worry about the engine quitting. Once in a great while,I have a problem, but 99% of the time, it is not due to the engine.

As Syssa gets larger, I expect customer service will suffer. At some point Todd will not be able to answer the phone and handle calls personally. The company willbe large enough to have a customer service department and hopefully service will improve. It is the normal progression of growth in a company. Call O.S. or DLEand ask to talk to anengine designer.

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

I can/do call Desert Aircraft and do that!

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

+1 on DA.
And I don't necessarily want to talk to the designer, I just want the thing to start and run like the
designer imagined, and most other engines do.
I also have a DLE 30 that is like a Swiss timepiece.

As for service, maybe Todd doesn't need to be on the phone as much or something.
It would be nice to get parts when ordered, emails responded to when sent, and
engine repairs back in a reasonable amount of time.

The target market for this size motor comprises a certain set and amount of modelers.
Most don't have gobs of time or patience for horrible service.
It's just as easy for a modeler to move on than to have to deal with this stuff
when brand "x' may be a better alternative.

50%plane

My Feedback: (5)

What oil mixture are you using? I had these issues a little bit... Also, check you throttle linkage and setup... That was my problem....the arm stripped out and would back off when I went to full throttle, then when I pulled back, I would be at a different setting...

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

I'm using 50:1
The engine is on a profile so everything is visble.
I thought it might be the servo at first but it wasn't.
The linkage is tight and all.

Again, the idle problem went away with the 201 carb.

bcree

OK, I ordered two engines from Syssa over three months ago. I have been unable to contact anyone at the company by phone or e-mail for the last two months. ARE THEY STILL IN BUSINESS????

WWIIP38

My Feedback: (43)

Been having trouble with mine dying shortly after take off, and haven't been able to yet determine the cause. Approx. 2 hours on engine, running 40-1 Stihl, 18x6 Xoar prop, getting ample cooling, with IBEC & new Duralite battery. Engine runs great on the ground, idles good, transitions well. Have adjusted and re-adjusted the carb several times, changed tank & fuel lines 3 times (3 line set up), changed radio, cleaned carb, changed plug, and finally sent it to Todd. He couldn't find anything wrong with it either. Next step in trouble shooting process will be to check timing, then change carb to a WT-645. If that doesn't work, will probably switch ignition and IBEC.
Any suggestions?

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

Would be interesting to find out what's going on there.
The wind chill finally got above 15° so I just went out and ran the 201 carb with a new pump diaphram.
Perfect!!

Idle is now stable and predictable, high end is great, and starts fine.
I also have the 645 but wanted to try an old DA50 carb I had laying around to see how it
would act.

So far, I like it.

bcree

According to Todd, his service is fixed.
You and I know otherwise...

Slow and Steady

Bcree, Are you saying you bought and paid for 2 engines three months ago and still have not received them?

hobby_man

My Feedback: (8)

Used Syssa build on a New Seagull Models Nemisis.

1/8 x 3/4 alum washers on back side of firewall

hobby_man

My Feedback: (8)

Do I need to pressurize the fuel cell with exhaust gasses on this syssa engine??

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

no

Slow and Steady

walbro carbs have an internal pump, which overrides any need for a pressurized tank. You can also move the tank further back; unlike a two cycle glo engine, the tank does not have to be near the engine due to the carb pump.

hobby_man

My Feedback: (8)

Thanks, guys!!

hobby_man

My Feedback: (8)

Any idea's why this set screw is missing on 1 side of the muffler and not the other side? Smoke system?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

They are smoke oil ports. Just put another set screw in the hole or don't worry about it.

Joystick TX

If you are not going to use a smoke system, put a set screw in it, with plenty of loctite. It will keep the exhaust oil out of your cowl.

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

Hobby Man ->

Nice job!

Where did you get that throttle arm?
I'm on the same page with a different throttle arm than the one the WT813 has.
I made one that gives a better throttle response.

You may have already dealt with this, but be sure to a put lock nut on the throttle arm where it hooks to that arm.

Take care
Bob

hobby_man

My Feedback: (8)

is the screw a M5?

hobby_man

My Feedback: (8)

I made it on a cnc mill

hobby_man

My Feedback: (8)

I caliper this fuel bars minor dia. at .160 and about .180 over the barbs, are you guys using 5/32 (.156) id fuloe line?

what are you using for a fuel filter and an fuel tank?

what is the run time on you tank size?

Joystick TX

I got tired of having minor leaks with the Sullivan type tanks so I switched to a B&B Specialties 16 oz tank. The fittings are installed in the tank by drilling holes where you want them and they are held in place with nuts for a leak proof fit. The fittings have large barbs to prevent fuel lines from slipping off..

I never paid attention to the dia. of the fuel tubing, I just have small, medium, and large. I use the medium on the 30cc engine since the fuel flow is so low.