SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
02-13-2012, 03:33 PM
#4726
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Sorry to here about the shoulder. The weather should be turning to spring any time. We have only had one weekend that we didn't fly at all this winter. I have 23 flights on my syssa in an extreme flight extra 300. I love it. If you ever get to Tulsa bring your airplane and look me up.
David
David
02-14-2012, 09:29 AM
#4727
Senior Member
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: Joystick TX
You won't have the problem with the motor mounts as much, but they are subject to the same oscillation and can work loose.
There are other factors such as mount spacing and rigidity of the mounting system that enter into play. Syssa engines using a tuned pipe should not have as much pendulum effect as the standard muffler since it will be less likely that it will get out of sync with the engine. I suspect the tone inserts will cause more twisting, due to more mass being at the end of the stingers which will act as a lever, and the resonant frequency will also change. The forces will be different at various RPM's and there will be one harmonic frequency where the twisting forces will be the greatest and that is the one that will cause the most problems. If you run your engine at that frequency, you will have more problems. The engine, muffler, standoffs, engine mounting box, and airframe all make up a ''system'' that will resonate at some frequency. I suspect that is why some people have more problems with loose mufflers than others. It is not a simple issue. You may be able to run the engine for a hundred hours on a test stand with no problems and have the muffler come loose after a few hours on a plane.
I thought about trying to tie the muffler stingers to the cylinder to dampen the twisting forces, but haven't figured out a way that would not cause other problems.
The DLE engines have side mounted mufflers so they don't have the same forces acting on them as rear mounted mufflers.
You won't have the problem with the motor mounts as much, but they are subject to the same oscillation and can work loose.
There are other factors such as mount spacing and rigidity of the mounting system that enter into play. Syssa engines using a tuned pipe should not have as much pendulum effect as the standard muffler since it will be less likely that it will get out of sync with the engine. I suspect the tone inserts will cause more twisting, due to more mass being at the end of the stingers which will act as a lever, and the resonant frequency will also change. The forces will be different at various RPM's and there will be one harmonic frequency where the twisting forces will be the greatest and that is the one that will cause the most problems. If you run your engine at that frequency, you will have more problems. The engine, muffler, standoffs, engine mounting box, and airframe all make up a ''system'' that will resonate at some frequency. I suspect that is why some people have more problems with loose mufflers than others. It is not a simple issue. You may be able to run the engine for a hundred hours on a test stand with no problems and have the muffler come loose after a few hours on a plane.
I thought about trying to tie the muffler stingers to the cylinder to dampen the twisting forces, but haven't figured out a way that would not cause other problems.
The DLE engines have side mounted mufflers so they don't have the same forces acting on them as rear mounted mufflers.
Just a thought....has anyone tried cutting the stingers off and using silicone rubber tubing instead? I've made my own silicone stingers by wrapping glass impregnated with Ultra Copper. I use 2 oz cloth and wrap 3 layers on the tube I want to use as sizer. I first line the aluminum with teflon tape and then wrap the glass pre-preg. Then wrap teflon tape over the top of the silicone rubber as much to apply compression as for a smooth finsh. Cures overnight. Simple to actually do and you get a very nice and thin, super light but strong, easily conformable and attachable exhaust stinger. It is a bit messy and I work on a piece of wax paper with gloved hands, but overall an easy technique to follow
02-14-2012, 10:15 AM
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Just a thought....has anyone tried cutting the stingers off and using silicone rubber tubing instead? I've made my own silicone stingers by wrapping glass impregnated with Ultra Copper. I use 2 oz cloth and wrap 3 layers on the tube I want to use as sizer. I first line the aluminum with teflon tape and then wrap the glass pre-preg. Then wrap teflon tape over the top of the silicone rubber as much to apply compression as for a smooth finsh. Cures overnight. Simple to actually do and you get a very nice and thin, super light but strong, easily conformable and attachable exhaust stinger. It is a bit messy and I work on a piece of wax paper with gloved hands, but overall an easy technique to follow
02-14-2012, 10:44 AM
#4729
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: tande
Interesting....Does this have any effect on exhaust noise level? .....
Just a thought....has anyone tried cutting the stingers off and using silicone rubber tubing instead? I've made my own silicone stingers by wrapping glass impregnated with Ultra Copper. I use 2 oz cloth and wrap 3 layers on the tube I want to use as sizer. I first line the aluminum with teflon tape and then wrap the glass pre-preg. Then wrap teflon tape over the top of the silicone rubber as much to apply compression as for a smooth finsh. Cures overnight. Simple to actually do and you get a very nice and thin, super light but strong, easily conformable and attachable exhaust stinger. It is a bit messy and I work on a piece of wax paper with gloved hands, but overall an easy technique to follow
The thing about this is it is so easy to do that you can build various attenuation shapes to fit on the muffler. Or with a little ingenuity make a light muffler by using foam as your plug. A little gas will debulk the foam for simple removal. As long as you don't soak the Ultra Copper in gasoline, it will stand up well enough to the exhaust...Just a suggestion
02-14-2012, 11:54 AM
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Yes it does...Reduces it a couple dB especially if you make the stinger longer, without robbing any power I can tell. Adding the tone inserts would attenuate noise even more but they rob power a little.
02-14-2012, 06:34 PM
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
On my DLE 55 the muffler bolts don't bare on the outside of the muffler. They fit within the tube and bare directly on the mufflers exhaust plate. The SAP bolts as we know, bare on the exterior of the muffler box and likely have less holding resistance exacerbated by the engine vibration. That being said, I have spoken to a number of seasoned flyers and they suggest Red Loctite, which has held up on the DLE. If I go with a JTEC it will likely have a bolt bearing design similar to the DLE. It is my understanding that they make custom mufflers. So far the reconditioned engine is holding up and the muffler remains secured. Something to note, my muffler issues with the Syssa engine may have been related to the gear kicking out on my Funtana, causing the muffler stacks to take the brunt of the landing force and causing the muffler to possibly deform. Don't know if any one else has had the same situation lead to their muffler issue. But I thought I would put it out there.
02-14-2012, 07:08 PM
#4732
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: Slow and Steady
On my DLE 55 the muffler bolts don't bare on the outside of the muffler. They fit within the tube and bare directly on the mufflers exhaust plate. The SAP bolts as we know, bare on the exterior of the muffler box and likely have less holding resistance exacerbated by the engine vibration. That being said, I have spoken to a number of seasoned flyers and they suggest Red Loctite, which has held up on the DLE. If I go with a JTEC it will likely have a bolt bearing design similar to the DLE. It is my understanding that they make custom mufflers. So far the reconditioned engine is holding up and the muffler remains secured. Something to note, my muffler issues with the Syssa engine may have been related to the gear kicking out on my Funtana, causing the muffler stacks to take the brunt of the landing force and causing the muffler to possibly deform. Don't know if any one else has had the same situation lead to their muffler issue. But I thought I would put it out there.
On my DLE 55 the muffler bolts don't bare on the outside of the muffler. They fit within the tube and bare directly on the mufflers exhaust plate. The SAP bolts as we know, bare on the exterior of the muffler box and likely have less holding resistance exacerbated by the engine vibration. That being said, I have spoken to a number of seasoned flyers and they suggest Red Loctite, which has held up on the DLE. If I go with a JTEC it will likely have a bolt bearing design similar to the DLE. It is my understanding that they make custom mufflers. So far the reconditioned engine is holding up and the muffler remains secured. Something to note, my muffler issues with the Syssa engine may have been related to the gear kicking out on my Funtana, causing the muffler stacks to take the brunt of the landing force and causing the muffler to possibly deform. Don't know if any one else has had the same situation lead to their muffler issue. But I thought I would put it out there.
02-14-2012, 07:32 PM
#4733
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: Slow and Steady
On my DLE 55 the muffler bolts don't bare on the outside of the muffler. They fit within the tube and bare directly on the mufflers exhaust plate. The SAP bolts as we know, bare on the exterior of the muffler box and likely have less holding resistance exacerbated by the engine vibration. That being said, I have spoken to a number of seasoned flyers and they suggest Red Loctite, which has held up on the DLE. If I go with a JTEC it will likely have a bolt bearing design similar to the DLE. It is my understanding that they make custom mufflers. So far the reconditioned engine is holding up and the muffler remains secured. Something to note, my muffler issues with the Syssa engine may have been related to the gear kicking out on my Funtana, causing the muffler stacks to take the brunt of the landing force and causing the muffler to possibly deform. Don't know if any one else has had the same situation lead to their muffler issue. But I thought I would put it out there.
On my DLE 55 the muffler bolts don't bare on the outside of the muffler. They fit within the tube and bare directly on the mufflers exhaust plate. The SAP bolts as we know, bare on the exterior of the muffler box and likely have less holding resistance exacerbated by the engine vibration. That being said, I have spoken to a number of seasoned flyers and they suggest Red Loctite, which has held up on the DLE. If I go with a JTEC it will likely have a bolt bearing design similar to the DLE. It is my understanding that they make custom mufflers. So far the reconditioned engine is holding up and the muffler remains secured. Something to note, my muffler issues with the Syssa engine may have been related to the gear kicking out on my Funtana, causing the muffler stacks to take the brunt of the landing force and causing the muffler to possibly deform. Don't know if any one else has had the same situation lead to their muffler issue. But I thought I would put it out there.
If the problem was simply holding resistance of the bolts, then safety wire would fix the problem.
02-15-2012, 03:23 AM
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Hello All
i have this engine also but i can not run it as i did not get a CDI with my engine was told it would be comming still no CDI....
But i have been looking at all of the problems some have been having and this is what i think ......If the Spacers are Alum and the muffler is steel think the alum spacer is the problem.......two different metals ....just an idea.......try a new spacer....
i have this engine also but i can not run it as i did not get a CDI with my engine was told it would be comming still no CDI....
But i have been looking at all of the problems some have been having and this is what i think ......If the Spacers are Alum and the muffler is steel think the alum spacer is the problem.......two different metals ....just an idea.......try a new spacer....
02-15-2012, 06:32 PM
#4735
Senior Member
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: Model 10
Hello All
i have this engine also but i can not run it as i did not get a CDI with my engine was told it would be comming still no CDI....
But i have been looking at all of the problems some have been having and this is what i think ......If the Spacers are Alum and the muffler is steel think the alum spacer is the problem.......two different metals ....just an idea.......try a new spacer....
Hello All
i have this engine also but i can not run it as i did not get a CDI with my engine was told it would be comming still no CDI....
But i have been looking at all of the problems some have been having and this is what i think ......If the Spacers are Alum and the muffler is steel think the alum spacer is the problem.......two different metals ....just an idea.......try a new spacer....
Bill C
The more I am around people the better I like my dog.
BCCHI
02-16-2012, 05:07 AM
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Hello
Thanks for the offer ....thats what modeling is all about ....
been in the hobby for 50+ years.........
Got an e-mail fron todd yesterday they are still on back order ..........i think the problem on the muffler is Thermal expansion ....for alum it is 12.4 and for steel it is 6.8 so you can see the problem the alum is trying to push the back off of the muffler........
Kindest Regards ...Model 10
Thanks for the offer ....thats what modeling is all about ....
been in the hobby for 50+ years.........
Got an e-mail fron todd yesterday they are still on back order ..........i think the problem on the muffler is Thermal expansion ....for alum it is 12.4 and for steel it is 6.8 so you can see the problem the alum is trying to push the back off of the muffler........
Kindest Regards ...Model 10
02-19-2012, 05:33 PM
#4737
Senior Member
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: Syssa Aircraft
sorry sent an email, but I do not think it went through. Sorry about that.
sorry sent an email, but I do not think it went through. Sorry about that.
BCCHI
02-19-2012, 05:40 PM
#4738
Senior Member
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: bcchi
Post you address in a PM and I will send you a ign for your Syssa,no charge except P&H do you have a Hall sensor on the engine. I have a few Igns left over(god ones).
Bill C
The more I am around people the better I like my dog.
BCCHI
ORIGINAL: Model 10
Hello All
i have this engine also but i can not run it as i did not get a CDI with my engine was told it would be comming still no CDI....
But i have been looking at all of the problems some have been having and this is what i think ......If the Spacers are Alum and the muffler is steel think the alum spacer is the problem.......two different metals ....just an idea.......try a new spacer....
Hello All
i have this engine also but i can not run it as i did not get a CDI with my engine was told it would be comming still no CDI....
But i have been looking at all of the problems some have been having and this is what i think ......If the Spacers are Alum and the muffler is steel think the alum spacer is the problem.......two different metals ....just an idea.......try a new spacer....
Bill C
The more I am around people the better I like my dog.
BCCHI
BCCHI
02-20-2012, 01:06 AM
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Hello BCCHI
My e-mail address is [email protected] will give you my information for shipping.
Do not have any idea as to what sensor i have did not get that information ......
My e-mail address is [email protected] will give you my information for shipping.
Do not have any idea as to what sensor i have did not get that information ......
02-20-2012, 02:12 AM
#4740
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I have a spank brand new Syssa that has about half a gallon of fuel through it.
Breaking it in as Todd wants, in the air, 40:1 dinosaur oil etc.
It seems to run ok in the air, although I have to run it a bit rich.
I'm trying to lean it a little at a time, but the 813A carb is taking some getting used to for me.
Anyway, it will just quit at the most inopportune times.
One of the problem spots seem to be after landing on rollout.
I can keep it running through the approach, but just seems to quit once it starts rolling on the runway.
Weird thing is, if I run it on the ground, and move the plane back and forth, the idle seems to drop out and it wants to quit too??
Yesterday I was just putting along about quarter throttle and dipped the nose and it quit.
When it's on its side it runs terrible, and inverted flight is out of the question.
This is the second fuel tank.
The lines are all good and the clunk is fine etc.
I've been doing what I can with the needles to keep it running too.
Anyone else having this problem?
Any ideas are appreciated as I just can't trust this engine.
Maybe it just needs more run time, but for the average flyer, this kind of thing
can surely cost a plane.
Thanks
Bob
Breaking it in as Todd wants, in the air, 40:1 dinosaur oil etc.
It seems to run ok in the air, although I have to run it a bit rich.
I'm trying to lean it a little at a time, but the 813A carb is taking some getting used to for me.
Anyway, it will just quit at the most inopportune times.
One of the problem spots seem to be after landing on rollout.
I can keep it running through the approach, but just seems to quit once it starts rolling on the runway.
Weird thing is, if I run it on the ground, and move the plane back and forth, the idle seems to drop out and it wants to quit too??
Yesterday I was just putting along about quarter throttle and dipped the nose and it quit.
When it's on its side it runs terrible, and inverted flight is out of the question.
This is the second fuel tank.
The lines are all good and the clunk is fine etc.
I've been doing what I can with the needles to keep it running too.
Anyone else having this problem?
Any ideas are appreciated as I just can't trust this engine.
Maybe it just needs more run time, but for the average flyer, this kind of thing
can surely cost a plane.
Thanks
Bob
02-20-2012, 05:02 AM
#4741
My Feedback: (2)
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
EVERY TIME I have experienced an engine quiting in the air, on short final/roll out, whatever, it's because it was lean. If you've eliminated fuel delivery issues, and assuming you're reasonably close on your needle settings, I think it's safe to say fat engines don't quit. They may not develop full power or sound as smooth, but they don't quit. For what you're describing, I'd richen the low speed.
02-20-2012, 05:25 AM
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
OK
I did try that too.
It just gets so darn rich and blubbery that it's really no fun at all to fly.
It loads up really bad.
I'll try it again.
Thanks
Bob
I did try that too.
It just gets so darn rich and blubbery that it's really no fun at all to fly.
It loads up really bad.
I'll try it again.
Thanks
Bob
02-20-2012, 08:25 AM
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
When I broke my Syssa in, I kept it fat on the 40:1.. Right around a gallon, she came into power, and started running perfect... I switched over to Royal Purple @50:1 and she's kept getting stronger... hope this helps.....
You may want to check the carb, though... It could have sucked something in that is causing a blockage....
You may want to check the carb, though... It could have sucked something in that is causing a blockage....
02-20-2012, 09:47 AM
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
this reads like the clunk is floating, can you get us some pictures of the fuel tank setup.
are you using a quick filler or a T and a fuel dot?
are you using a quick filler or a T and a fuel dot?
02-20-2012, 06:27 PM
#4745
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: bob_nj
I have a spank brand new Syssa that has about half a gallon of fuel through it.
Breaking it in as Todd wants, in the air, 40:1 dinosaur oil etc.
It seems to run ok in the air, although I have to run it a bit rich.
I'm trying to lean it a little at a time, but the 813A carb is taking some getting used to for me.
Anyway, it will just quit at the most inopportune times.
One of the problem spots seem to be after landing on rollout.
I can keep it running through the approach, but just seems to quit once it starts rolling on the runway.
Weird thing is, if I run it on the ground, and move the plane back and forth, the idle seems to drop out and it wants to quit too??
Yesterday I was just putting along about quarter throttle and dipped the nose and it quit.
When it's on its side it runs terrible, and inverted flight is out of the question.
This is the second fuel tank.
The lines are all good and the clunk is fine etc.
I've been doing what I can with the needles to keep it running too.
Anyone else having this problem?
Any ideas are appreciated as I just can't trust this engine.
Maybe it just needs more run time, but for the average flyer, this kind of thing
can surely cost a plane.
Thanks
Bob
I have a spank brand new Syssa that has about half a gallon of fuel through it.
Breaking it in as Todd wants, in the air, 40:1 dinosaur oil etc.
It seems to run ok in the air, although I have to run it a bit rich.
I'm trying to lean it a little at a time, but the 813A carb is taking some getting used to for me.
Anyway, it will just quit at the most inopportune times.
One of the problem spots seem to be after landing on rollout.
I can keep it running through the approach, but just seems to quit once it starts rolling on the runway.
Weird thing is, if I run it on the ground, and move the plane back and forth, the idle seems to drop out and it wants to quit too??
Yesterday I was just putting along about quarter throttle and dipped the nose and it quit.
When it's on its side it runs terrible, and inverted flight is out of the question.
This is the second fuel tank.
The lines are all good and the clunk is fine etc.
I've been doing what I can with the needles to keep it running too.
Anyone else having this problem?
Any ideas are appreciated as I just can't trust this engine.
Maybe it just needs more run time, but for the average flyer, this kind of thing
can surely cost a plane.
Thanks
Bob
Loose mufflers have caused all three of my SAPS to run like arse at one time or another. Two of my warbirds are down for it right now. If you don't catch it right away you may start chasing the ghost with needle settings. If you do find it loose, pick one of the MANY solutions posted in this forum and tighten it back up. Then reset your needles to factory and start over.
Another possible cause culd be a bad ignition battery. I had a new battery that got chaffed by a screw and killed 1 cell. It ran very poorly on less than 4.8 volts. It was not the first thing I checked because it was new, but in the end it was the cause.
It's easy enough to swap one out for troubleshooting.
Good luck
02-20-2012, 07:39 PM
#4746
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: MsgtRob
Also check for a loose muffler. The engines all over the place once the air leak develops between the head and muffler. Just grab your stingers (when cold!) and try to rotate the muffler back and forth. (the same direction as the prop)It should be rock solid.
Loose mufflers have caused all three of my SAPS to run like arse at one time or another. Two of my warbirds are down for it right now. If you don't catch it right away you may start chasing the ghost with needle settings. If you do find it loose, pick one of the MANY solutions posted in this forum and tighten it back up. Then reset your needles to factory and start over.
Another possible cause culd be a bad ignition battery. I had a new battery that got chaffed by a screw and killed 1 cell. It ran very poorly on less than 4.8 volts. It was not the first thing I checked because it was new, but in the end it was the cause.
It's easy enough to swap one out for troubleshooting.
Good luck
ORIGINAL: bob_nj
I have a spank brand new Syssa that has about half a gallon of fuel through it.
Breaking it in as Todd wants, in the air, 40:1 dinosaur oil etc.
It seems to run ok in the air, although I have to run it a bit rich.
I'm trying to lean it a little at a time, but the 813A carb is taking some getting used to for me.
Anyway, it will just quit at the most inopportune times.
One of the problem spots seem to be after landing on rollout.
I can keep it running through the approach, but just seems to quit once it starts rolling on the runway.
Weird thing is, if I run it on the ground, and move the plane back and forth, the idle seems to drop out and it wants to quit too??
Yesterday I was just putting along about quarter throttle and dipped the nose and it quit.
When it's on its side it runs terrible, and inverted flight is out of the question.
This is the second fuel tank.
The lines are all good and the clunk is fine etc.
I've been doing what I can with the needles to keep it running too.
Anyone else having this problem?
Any ideas are appreciated as I just can't trust this engine.
Maybe it just needs more run time, but for the average flyer, this kind of thing
can surely cost a plane.
Thanks
Bob
I have a spank brand new Syssa that has about half a gallon of fuel through it.
Breaking it in as Todd wants, in the air, 40:1 dinosaur oil etc.
It seems to run ok in the air, although I have to run it a bit rich.
I'm trying to lean it a little at a time, but the 813A carb is taking some getting used to for me.
Anyway, it will just quit at the most inopportune times.
One of the problem spots seem to be after landing on rollout.
I can keep it running through the approach, but just seems to quit once it starts rolling on the runway.
Weird thing is, if I run it on the ground, and move the plane back and forth, the idle seems to drop out and it wants to quit too??
Yesterday I was just putting along about quarter throttle and dipped the nose and it quit.
When it's on its side it runs terrible, and inverted flight is out of the question.
This is the second fuel tank.
The lines are all good and the clunk is fine etc.
I've been doing what I can with the needles to keep it running too.
Anyone else having this problem?
Any ideas are appreciated as I just can't trust this engine.
Maybe it just needs more run time, but for the average flyer, this kind of thing
can surely cost a plane.
Thanks
Bob
Loose mufflers have caused all three of my SAPS to run like arse at one time or another. Two of my warbirds are down for it right now. If you don't catch it right away you may start chasing the ghost with needle settings. If you do find it loose, pick one of the MANY solutions posted in this forum and tighten it back up. Then reset your needles to factory and start over.
Another possible cause culd be a bad ignition battery. I had a new battery that got chaffed by a screw and killed 1 cell. It ran very poorly on less than 4.8 volts. It was not the first thing I checked because it was new, but in the end it was the cause.
It's easy enough to swap one out for troubleshooting.
Good luck
02-20-2012, 07:58 PM
#4747
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
This is a long shot, but since winter is here, it may apply. Another possibility for a bad running engine is gas that is over a couple of months old. In some areas of the country, it may be a month old when you get it. Depending on how it is stored, it can also start going bad much quicker. You can tell by comparing the color to fresh gasoline, if the old gas is much darker it has started to oxidize and should not be used. It may also smell sour. When you mix it with oil, both of these methods used to detect old gas don't work very well, so I try to not use any gas that is over two months old.
02-20-2012, 08:59 PM
#4748
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: 50%plane
Interesting, my muffler has been loose, and I'm to lazy to fix it.... hundreds of flights like that, no issues... Hell, I just got back from overseas, once I got her wet, she ran like new...
ORIGINAL: MsgtRob
Also check for a loose muffler. The engines all over the place once the air leak develops between the head and muffler. Just grab your stingers (when cold!) and try to rotate the muffler back and forth. (the same direction as the prop)It should be rock solid.
Loose mufflers have caused all three of my SAPS to run like arse at one time or another. Two of my warbirds are down for it right now. If you don't catch it right away you may start chasing the ghost with needle settings. If you do find it loose, pick one of the MANY solutions posted in this forum and tighten it back up. Then reset your needles to factory and start over.
Another possible cause culd be a bad ignition battery. I had a new battery that got chaffed by a screw and killed 1 cell. It ran very poorly on less than 4.8 volts. It was not the first thing I checked because it was new, but in the end it was the cause.
It's easy enough to swap one out for troubleshooting.
Good luck
ORIGINAL: bob_nj
I have a spank brand new Syssa that has about half a gallon of fuel through it.
Breaking it in as Todd wants, in the air, 40:1 dinosaur oil etc.
It seems to run ok in the air, although I have to run it a bit rich.
I'm trying to lean it a little at a time, but the 813A carb is taking some getting used to for me.
Anyway, it will just quit at the most inopportune times.
One of the problem spots seem to be after landing on rollout.
I can keep it running through the approach, but just seems to quit once it starts rolling on the runway.
Weird thing is, if I run it on the ground, and move the plane back and forth, the idle seems to drop out and it wants to quit too??
Yesterday I was just putting along about quarter throttle and dipped the nose and it quit.
When it's on its side it runs terrible, and inverted flight is out of the question.
This is the second fuel tank.
The lines are all good and the clunk is fine etc.
I've been doing what I can with the needles to keep it running too.
Anyone else having this problem?
Any ideas are appreciated as I just can't trust this engine.
Maybe it just needs more run time, but for the average flyer, this kind of thing
can surely cost a plane.
Thanks
Bob
I have a spank brand new Syssa that has about half a gallon of fuel through it.
Breaking it in as Todd wants, in the air, 40:1 dinosaur oil etc.
It seems to run ok in the air, although I have to run it a bit rich.
I'm trying to lean it a little at a time, but the 813A carb is taking some getting used to for me.
Anyway, it will just quit at the most inopportune times.
One of the problem spots seem to be after landing on rollout.
I can keep it running through the approach, but just seems to quit once it starts rolling on the runway.
Weird thing is, if I run it on the ground, and move the plane back and forth, the idle seems to drop out and it wants to quit too??
Yesterday I was just putting along about quarter throttle and dipped the nose and it quit.
When it's on its side it runs terrible, and inverted flight is out of the question.
This is the second fuel tank.
The lines are all good and the clunk is fine etc.
I've been doing what I can with the needles to keep it running too.
Anyone else having this problem?
Any ideas are appreciated as I just can't trust this engine.
Maybe it just needs more run time, but for the average flyer, this kind of thing
can surely cost a plane.
Thanks
Bob
Loose mufflers have caused all three of my SAPS to run like arse at one time or another. Two of my warbirds are down for it right now. If you don't catch it right away you may start chasing the ghost with needle settings. If you do find it loose, pick one of the MANY solutions posted in this forum and tighten it back up. Then reset your needles to factory and start over.
Another possible cause culd be a bad ignition battery. I had a new battery that got chaffed by a screw and killed 1 cell. It ran very poorly on less than 4.8 volts. It was not the first thing I checked because it was new, but in the end it was the cause.
It's easy enough to swap one out for troubleshooting.
Good luck
Then ran great once retightened/sealed.
No winter here in SO Cal...I flew two days this weekend.
02-20-2012, 09:04 PM
#4749
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: MsgtRob
Yeah interesting wasn't the word I chose!! Maybe your muffler's loose but the gasket's still keeping the seal? it's possible if it's mildly loose. My RPM's and transitions were eratic once the air leak developed.
Then ran great once retightened/sealed.
No winter here in SO Cal...I flew two days this weekend.
ORIGINAL: 50%plane
Interesting, my muffler has been loose, and I'm to lazy to fix it.... hundreds of flights like that, no issues... Hell, I just got back from overseas, once I got her wet, she ran like new...
ORIGINAL: MsgtRob
Also check for a loose muffler. The engines all over the place once the air leak develops between the head and muffler. Just grab your stingers (when cold!) and try to rotate the muffler back and forth. (the same direction as the prop)It should be rock solid.
Loose mufflers have caused all three of my SAPS to run like arse at one time or another. Two of my warbirds are down for it right now. If you don't catch it right away you may start chasing the ghost with needle settings. If you do find it loose, pick one of the MANY solutions posted in this forum and tighten it back up. Then reset your needles to factory and start over.
Another possible cause culd be a bad ignition battery. I had a new battery that got chaffed by a screw and killed 1 cell. It ran very poorly on less than 4.8 volts. It was not the first thing I checked because it was new, but in the end it was the cause.
It's easy enough to swap one out for troubleshooting.
Good luck
ORIGINAL: bob_nj
I have a spank brand new Syssa that has about half a gallon of fuel through it.
Breaking it in as Todd wants, in the air, 40:1 dinosaur oil etc.
It seems to run ok in the air, although I have to run it a bit rich.
I'm trying to lean it a little at a time, but the 813A carb is taking some getting used to for me.
Anyway, it will just quit at the most inopportune times.
One of the problem spots seem to be after landing on rollout.
I can keep it running through the approach, but just seems to quit once it starts rolling on the runway.
Weird thing is, if I run it on the ground, and move the plane back and forth, the idle seems to drop out and it wants to quit too??
Yesterday I was just putting along about quarter throttle and dipped the nose and it quit.
When it's on its side it runs terrible, and inverted flight is out of the question.
This is the second fuel tank.
The lines are all good and the clunk is fine etc.
I've been doing what I can with the needles to keep it running too.
Anyone else having this problem?
Any ideas are appreciated as I just can't trust this engine.
Maybe it just needs more run time, but for the average flyer, this kind of thing
can surely cost a plane.
Thanks
Bob
I have a spank brand new Syssa that has about half a gallon of fuel through it.
Breaking it in as Todd wants, in the air, 40:1 dinosaur oil etc.
It seems to run ok in the air, although I have to run it a bit rich.
I'm trying to lean it a little at a time, but the 813A carb is taking some getting used to for me.
Anyway, it will just quit at the most inopportune times.
One of the problem spots seem to be after landing on rollout.
I can keep it running through the approach, but just seems to quit once it starts rolling on the runway.
Weird thing is, if I run it on the ground, and move the plane back and forth, the idle seems to drop out and it wants to quit too??
Yesterday I was just putting along about quarter throttle and dipped the nose and it quit.
When it's on its side it runs terrible, and inverted flight is out of the question.
This is the second fuel tank.
The lines are all good and the clunk is fine etc.
I've been doing what I can with the needles to keep it running too.
Anyone else having this problem?
Any ideas are appreciated as I just can't trust this engine.
Maybe it just needs more run time, but for the average flyer, this kind of thing
can surely cost a plane.
Thanks
Bob
Loose mufflers have caused all three of my SAPS to run like arse at one time or another. Two of my warbirds are down for it right now. If you don't catch it right away you may start chasing the ghost with needle settings. If you do find it loose, pick one of the MANY solutions posted in this forum and tighten it back up. Then reset your needles to factory and start over.
Another possible cause culd be a bad ignition battery. I had a new battery that got chaffed by a screw and killed 1 cell. It ran very poorly on less than 4.8 volts. It was not the first thing I checked because it was new, but in the end it was the cause.
It's easy enough to swap one out for troubleshooting.
Good luck
Then ran great once retightened/sealed.
No winter here in SO Cal...I flew two days this weekend.
02-21-2012, 12:43 AM
#4750
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Well, plenty of ideas here, and thanks.
Let's see, as far as the fuel tank, here is what I'm using right now.
Keep in mind this is the second tank with the same symptom.
[link=http://www.fourtituderc.com/foutitude_site2_002.htm]Fourtitude Fuel Tank[/link]
The tank is their smallest at 16oz and the clunk seems to be immersed in fuel most of the flight.
This wouldn't account for the fact that if I rock the plane back and forth on the ground with a full tank,
the rpm's fall off and it wants to die.
Very strange. It's like any odd movement of the engine sends it into a fit.
Maybe that's why it quits when the gear touch the ground.
That little bump just kills the engine like a switch.
Old gas, it's fresh as of a week ago as this is the first gallon of fuel.
Good idea though.
Low ignition voltage.
I'm using the Ultra IBEF and the output seems to be real solid at 5.3 volts.
Loose muffler, it's definitely tight.
There is no gasket on this engine, just the gray matter in place of the gasket.
What is that stuff anyway, in case I need more some day?
Thanks for all of the thoughts, and keep them coming if possible.
The weather is crappy here right now, but I'm hoping with more running time it will get better.
It just seems that the plane is being unnecessarily compromised for whatever reason.
I've seen guys fly new engines right out of the box and not have these issues.
Take care
Bob
Let's see, as far as the fuel tank, here is what I'm using right now.
Keep in mind this is the second tank with the same symptom.
[link=http://www.fourtituderc.com/foutitude_site2_002.htm]Fourtitude Fuel Tank[/link]
The tank is their smallest at 16oz and the clunk seems to be immersed in fuel most of the flight.
This wouldn't account for the fact that if I rock the plane back and forth on the ground with a full tank,
the rpm's fall off and it wants to die.
Very strange. It's like any odd movement of the engine sends it into a fit.
Maybe that's why it quits when the gear touch the ground.
That little bump just kills the engine like a switch.
Old gas, it's fresh as of a week ago as this is the first gallon of fuel.
Good idea though.
Low ignition voltage.
I'm using the Ultra IBEF and the output seems to be real solid at 5.3 volts.
Loose muffler, it's definitely tight.
There is no gasket on this engine, just the gray matter in place of the gasket.
What is that stuff anyway, in case I need more some day?
Thanks for all of the thoughts, and keep them coming if possible.
The weather is crappy here right now, but I'm hoping with more running time it will get better.
It just seems that the plane is being unnecessarily compromised for whatever reason.
I've seen guys fly new engines right out of the box and not have these issues.
Take care
Bob
