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SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA

Old 10-23-2013, 04:07 PM
  #6001  
Joystick TX
 
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Originally Posted by Jim Henley
Kurt, I found that venting the carb cover to the interior of the fuse helped my issue, however out of curiosity, are you running a NIMH battery? I found that NIMH battery would not support the receiver and IBCE. I had to go back to separate ignition battery to keep the plane running.
I found that the RCEXL Module #6, for the new DLE 35 engine, would not run well at all if a 4 cell NiMh battery was used with the IBEC. I switched over to 5 cell packs and they work great.

I have the technical details if anyone is interested.
Old 10-23-2013, 04:16 PM
  #6002  
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Originally Posted by KurtS
Thanks Jim,

I've got the airplane all pulled apart to repair some minor damage caused during the last dead stick yesterday. I spoke with Todd this morning and I have three things to try.

First is that I drilled a 1" hole in the firewall, directly behind the carb. This opens it up to breath air from farther back in the fuselage and not just air that is coming through the cowling intake. I also widened the cowling inside to allow more airflow to pass through. Don't know if either of those will work, but it wasn't hard to do and I'm willing to try anything at this point.

The third thing would be to put a line on the carb diaphragm cover vent hole and run that line inside the fuselage. These three things should allow it to breathe better, cool better, and open it up in case there was an air pressure or flow issue inside the cowling when the airplane was flying at a higher angle of attack. Since it only quit at half throttle and slower airspeeds, the relative wind to the cowl would be at a greater angle and..... well who knows. It's worth a shot.

But on the ground it runs like a dream. Easy to start, idles smoothly, nice transition to full throttle, even after a LONG idle. It is adjusted on the high end as the manual suggests, lean for max rpm then back the needle off 1/8 turn. It's only in the air at slower airspeeds and part throttle that it refuses to stay running. Maybe these tweaks I made today will be the cure.

Anyone know the part number for the Walbro diaphragm cover that has the hose barb already on it, or if there even is one?

Kurt
Kurt, your problem could also be an air leak in your fuel system. After you get it all back together, plug or clamp off the vent line and use a suction bulb to pull a vacuum on the line going to the carb. Don't try to find the leak using pressure.

I think the vent on the carb cover is a DIY project.
Old 10-23-2013, 05:43 PM
  #6003  
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Originally Posted by Joystick TX
I found that the RCEXL Module #6, for the new DLE 35 engine, would not run well at all if a 4 cell NiMh battery was used with the IBEC. I switched over to 5 cell packs and they work great.

I have the technical details if anyone is interested.
I'm running dual 6v 1950 NiMh batteries. I'll check the fuel lines as suggested.

Kurt
Old 10-23-2013, 06:21 PM
  #6004  
PacificNWSkyPilot
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Steve is right.

There's no reason you should change the carb cover. These run great without that. Some dynamic from active flight that's not present on the ground is the missing link in this mystery, and you need to unravel this mystery to solve it. The motion has to be messing with the gas flow, or the gas setup is flawed. In situations like this, I've seen vent lines hooked to the carb, and everything was fine until the plane started to move around. And THIS one I did myself: I set up the tank perfectly, with the vent up, and slipped it into place and secured it. It looked perfect. But - uhh, brain cramp, the plane was inverted when I put the gas tank in. So, it didn't exactly work the way I intended when it was rightside up again, and the vent was suddenly at the bottom. In another one, the tubing from the cap to the clunk was loose, and once the fuel level started to drop, the clunk line flopped around and allowed air to enter, and it stalled the plane. It wouldn't do it on the ground, because the pickup tubing wasn't flopping around.
The one thing about gassers is that the gas system has to be PERFECT, or it'll act up. Do you have a filter inline? Remove it, and test it without the filter. I've had filters with air leaks that caused the plane to stall in the air after running perfectly on the ground. Every single tubing connection is another place where you can have an air leak. If you don't have collets to slip over the barbed connection, use good zip-ties like 3M, and make sure you zip them up TIGHT around the barb. SOMETHING is happening when that plane starts to move, or climb, or......????? Lines that flop around are moving, and moving lines can lean one way and cause an air leak at a connection. Do any of your connections have just one barb? Those are likely to bleed air. Zip-tie them good and tight, behind the barb. Are you using a gas filter that comes apart for cleaning? Take it out of line, those filters often bleed air where they separate. In fact, take anything out of line that doesn't absolutely have to be there, like fillers, valves, tees, dots, etc. If the problem stops, start re-installing the removed items back into the system, one-by-one, until the problem starts again. Once it starts acting up again, whatever part you just put back into the system is the culprit.
If you need collets, find a local dental equipment supply company, and go buy some 1/4" collets from their service department. If you don't have anybody like that near you, you can find them online. If you live in or near San Antonio, I have them.
I'm betting it's the fuel. Even so, replacing the spark plug again is a cheap bit of insurance.

Before you start changing the carb, troubleshoot the hell out of your fuel system.

Jim
Old 10-23-2013, 07:50 PM
  #6005  
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A 4 cell NiMH battery is driven to about 5 1/2 volts when fully charged. That's where the IBEC's Vreg is typically set so there's practically no voltage to drop. As the battery gets used and volts drop, the IBEC's built in Vreg does nothing. The CDI sees what it sees which is often lower than it needs to work right.

A 5 cell reduces the problem but it also may not have enough voltage at some point during a session, to drive the IBEC Vreg properly. A LiFe 2 cell is a better solution
Old 10-23-2013, 09:55 PM
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I know the tank is plumbed correctly, but I did have one of these screw together fuel filters in the carb feed line. I say did, because its not there now. All fuel line connections now have clamps or zip ties on them, but the only ones that didn't before were the ones on the clunk hose in the tank. That hose had softened up in the gasoline and while it wasn't falling off, it pulled off both the tubing and the clunk with no resistance. I'm using Tygon for all hoses except in the tank. The Tygon was too stiff and the clunk wouldn't move properly so I used the black Neoprene hose that DuBro sells. It was recommended by a friend who runs the stuff inside all his gasser tanks. http://shop.dubro.com/p/2-ft-neopren...essories?pp=12

I've now had a fuel bulb sucking on the carb feed line for hours, and it isn't changing. So I think this indicates my fuel system is sound.

Once I finish putting it all back together I'll give it another try. Thanks for the suggestions and input!

Kurt
Old 10-24-2013, 02:11 AM
  #6007  
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Hi Jim,
I have a XYZ 53 CC Gasser. Been flying it for months. 7,500 RPM with a 20-10 Master Airscrew Classic Prop. I'm using NGK CM6 plugs. 40-1 oil mix and a 2 cell lipo with a 5 volt regulator.
You can get the regulator from Hobby People in California. It's called a "Switch harness with BEC. AIRPRT 96700. You can NOT use a NIMH battery. I think the NIMH batteries might be OK if you had a capicitor to smooth out the Voltage Peaks.
I think that I should be using more prop and that 7,500 is really too fast for the engine. I have several 20-8-14's but I don't want to break them. I have my motor mounted on 5/8" stand offs with the Carb Down and the Mufflers UP. Runs great and Hand starts.
Larry Kopecky
Conyers, Georgia
[email protected]
Old 11-27-2013, 03:57 PM
  #6008  
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Here's a new one for we owners of the Syssa 30cc.

Has any one hooked up Spektrum Telemetry RPM to a Syssa engine? I use Spectrum TM1000 for temp & voltage, and would to get RPM.

Some Spektrum blogs have been recomending a tapping into the hall sensor wire, but I have not been able to get that techinque to work for me.

Michael
Old 11-28-2013, 11:17 AM
  #6009  
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Here is what I did and it works great.
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Old 12-17-2013, 08:53 PM
  #6010  
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I have slop on prop shaft. After a flight I grabbed my spinner and it will move back and for about 50 thousandth or so. It feel like the front bearings are sliding back and forth on the boss. Without reading every page, can anyone tell me if I can fix it or does it need to go back to Syssa?

Any help would really be appreciated.

Chuck
Old 12-18-2013, 01:15 AM
  #6011  
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I literally have hundreds of flights on my motor. It has a season of IMAC and two full season of pattern contest. I am wondering about what I should be doing for maintenence.
I think I am ready for a new set of rings. The compression feels okay. But it certainly down in comparison to the first few hundred flights. Has anyone installed the Frank Bowman rings on their Syssa? Other than Carb maintenance and rings, what else is their to do?
Old 12-25-2013, 03:52 PM
  #6012  
50%plane
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So, I've been out of the loop for a while, what's going on with Syssa these days? Should I send my engine in for service, or just buy the VVRC 40cc?
Old 12-25-2013, 04:00 PM
  #6013  
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I chose the latter.

~ Jim ~
Old 12-25-2013, 04:03 PM
  #6014  
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What kind of service do you need? I have been running my Syssa 30 cc for 3 years now and have not needed any service yet. I go through about 5 gallons of fuel each summer. Have done a carb overhaul only once. Just keep the gas really clean. Bearings are good, great compression and flys a Funtana 125 with ease.
Old 12-25-2013, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnB96041
What kind of service do you need? I have been running my Syssa 30 cc for 3 years now and have not needed any service yet. I go through about 5 gallons of fuel each summer. Have done a carb overhaul only once. Just keep the gas really clean. Bearings are good, great compression and flys a Funtana 125 with ease.
I spent a bunch of time overseas, and when I came back, I couldn't get the engine running. (just a couple cough's) I'm not sure what is going on.. The ignition is sparking and I rebuilt the carb, so I'm thinking that there must be a leak somewhere....

Last edited by 50%plane; 12-25-2013 at 04:12 PM.
Old 12-25-2013, 04:15 PM
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Is it getting fuel to the card? Have you checked the gap of the spark plug? Is the plug wet after trying to start the motor? It is easy to reassemble the carb with the gasket and pump diaphram wrong. Check that out.
Old 12-25-2013, 04:29 PM
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Yes to all
Old 12-25-2013, 04:32 PM
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'bout the only thing left to check is the timing.
Old 12-25-2013, 04:54 PM
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IMHO, I don't think the timing is going to keep it from starting, and if it was running OK when put away, it's unlikely the timing has changed?

What makes you believe it's getting fuel?

"A couple coughs" is a pretty good description of what some of my engines have done on the start following a botched landing? Landings that had me picking grass clippings out of the cylinder? That silicone inside the boot is pretty easily damaged to the point it will let spark leak through it to the metal boot. If this occurs, many times you'll have a very visible spark with the plug removed, but under compression, things don't go quite as well. You may get that occasional cough, followed by a puff of white smoke? Very often you can hear the spark as well?

So, is there a chance the plane was dropped while you were away? A bad landing just prior to your departure? Do you have another ign. module you can swap into it?
Old 12-25-2013, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ahicks
IMHO, I don't think the timing is going to keep it from starting, and if it was running OK when put away, it's unlikely the timing has changed?

What makes you believe it's getting fuel?

"A couple coughs" is a pretty good description of what some of my engines have done on the start following a botched landing? Landings that had me picking grass clippings out of the cylinder? That silicone inside the boot is pretty easily damaged to the point it will let spark leak through it to the metal boot. If this occurs, many times you'll have a very visible spark with the plug removed, but under compression, things don't go quite as well. You may get that occasional cough, followed by a puff of white smoke? Very often you can hear the spark as well?

So, is there a chance the plane was dropped while you were away? A bad landing just prior to your departure? Do you have another ign. module you can swap into it?
It was running great when I put it away. I've swapped ignitions already with no avail. I know I'm getting fuel because after a bunch of flips, the engine floods and I have to pull the plug and start again. The plane sat in my garage over a period of about a year before I tried to run it. It was not dropped.
Old 12-25-2013, 08:14 PM
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Check you plug; then plug boot, and all the connections. Best if you can check for continuity so make sure all the wires are working correctly?
Old 12-25-2013, 08:34 PM
  #6022  
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Throw it in a box and call Todd. You'll have back in couple of weeks.
Old 12-25-2013, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Scooterpilot
Check you plug; then plug boot, and all the connections. Best if you can check for continuity so make sure all the wires are working correctly?
new plug, gap check good, ignition swapped from an engine that runs fine.
Old 12-26-2013, 12:12 AM
  #6024  
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DLE has A 40 twin coming out I think
Old 01-07-2014, 04:06 PM
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Hi. I Have never posted to this thread but I have read every one since it started. I was one of the first to buy a SYSSA 180 engine. My choice was because it was made in the USA, I have had some problems with the engine but Todd has bent over backward to make it right. Some times he is hard to contact but he always has come through. My biggest complaint was all of the dead sticks that I had. Cost me a couple of fuselages for my H9 Taylor craft. Long story -Short, I Could not get the high speed mixture rich enough. Run excellent on the ground but would flame out on the back leg of the pattern. Even with the high speed needle 3 turns the mix was still lean. Did all the things to correct, clean, vent cover to fuselage, check fuel system and more. In desperation I installed a carb from a sweet running Zenoah ei 26. Solved all my problems. No dead sticks since. I am not new to small 2 cycle engines. Ran a small engine repair for about 25 years. Just my thoughts.

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