tele1974

Welcome to the Universe, Mombodad! I see that was your first post.

bigben

My Feedback: (24)

In reading thru the long thread did you catch the part where Todd would put on a standard carb if the original was a problem? You may need to take yours apart and soak out junk blocking the metering system. Mine has always been steady but like you had a few flame outs in flight leading to the event where we yell out DEAD STICK, LANDING!

FlymoreRC

I have two engines, and one, my first, has run flawllessly for 4 years, while the second one tormented me until I disassembled the carb and found some silicon junk in the internal channels. I lived near enough to Todd's original workshop to drive over and have him take a looksee. We installed a new carb and did a quick engine run up. Since then, they both run great.

Definitely check the cleanliness of the original carb. And watch your air flow set up for cooling issues.

Michael

Red Raider

My Feedback: (86)

I haven't tried this personally, but I have heard of guys simply plugging in a "Y" between the sensor and the CDI. Seems to work for them.
SS

opjose

Yup classic carburation problem.

Taking apart a Walboro carb is almost trivial and IMHO worth it even on new engines.

I've found that often brass shavings from manufacturing will make their way into the carb but are not detected in factory testing.

I take apart the carb, remove the membranes and set them asside and blow compressed air through each opening from the reverse side.

It is also a good idea to check the mesh screen while in there as an almost transparent & invisible layer of gunk often forms during initial engine testing.

Having the carb off also offers the opportunity to check the pulse ports. Many times the gaskets partially or in whole end up covering the pulse ports resulting in less than optimal engine performance.

I do this with all of my engines out of the box and also with the SYSSA's...

As a result I've never had one deadstick nor fail... I have one with well over 700 12+ minute flights on it now and still going strong.

FlymoreRC

I worked that angle for a few days, but just couldn't seem to get accurate readings. Either the Syssa ignition is like DA, which I have read won't work with the Y connector technique, or I'm missing some other setting or wiriing arrangement.
Thanks for your reply.
Maybe with all this cold weather, I'll find time to retry things again.
Michael

mombodad

My Feedback: (4)

I must have missed the post that said Todd would replace the carb. Any how I sent the engine back , addressed to Joe, after I mailed to him a description of my problems. The engine was returned to me 10 days later, post paid. The crankcase had been replaced with a new version 2. The carb was replaced with a Tillitson unit. It appears that the only parts that were original were the cylinder and piston which had been replaced after a previous crash. The Tillitson carb had a different choke arrangement which needed a different linkage.

I have yet to run the engine because of the cold weather we have been having in western NY but I am sure it will be fine. The point of this post is to commend Joe and Todd on their Service. The cost of all of the repairs have been $0 except for crash damage.

Dick

KurtS

I just got my engine back from Todd and it now has a V2 case and a Tillotson carb. A couple things strike me as odd, the first being that the choke butterfly/plate won't close completely. It closes about 80% but the plate is hitting the casting in the throat of the carb and from the looks of it, it physically can't close all the way. Without it closed all the way it won't work, which is my second problem. The choke seems completely ineffective and the engine won't draw fuel. The only way I've been able to start it so far is to pull the plug and squirt fuel directly into it. Once this is done it starts just fine. This leads me to problem number three, and that is that the idle speed is way too fast. With the throttle arm against the stop the engine continues to run at a fast idle. There should be an adjustment screw for the idle stop but unlike the Walbro on my DLE engine, the hole where I think the idle adjustment screw should be, is empty. Any thoughts?

tele1974

Kurt, can you post some pictures? I'd like to see the new V2 case and carb. See if you can get one of the butterfly too. Strange, Is the butterfly too big for the throat? Curious if it's the same diameter intake as the old carb. What model number is it. Sometimes if the butterfly is off center just a tiny biy it will hit the side wall before it closes.
The high idle is probably a lean low needle.

Great to hear about your experience with service.
That means we can fly harder.

KurtS

Certainly! To me, the case looks the same. You can see though that is says V2 on it. You can also see the throttle plate is closing fully, that there is no idle adjustment screw, and that the choke plate is not closing fully. There is no adjustment on the choke plate, it physically seems too large for the opening.

the pope

Hi there is the screw tight . I had what seemed a similar prob and the screw was loose . Cheers

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Hello Kurt,

It looks like the non-– brass plate is your choke, from what I can see in the photos. I will assume here that you have already checked the exterior linkages for obstructions. I'm in agreement with tele1974, when those butterfly plates are not in perfect alignment, this can happen. What I would try first would be to loosen the screw in the center of the plate, just a little, to see if it will allow the plate to re-align and close. If that works, then I would take some paper and position it around the edges before you lay the butterfly flat, or use whatever method you prefer to make sure there is enough clearance so that it doesn't bind against the walls. Hopefully that will straighten it out for you, and you can retighten the screw. Beyond that, you may have to remove the plate and remove some material, or relieve the venturi walls. More likely, though, it's just out of alignment. Even so, check the venturi for burrs or irregularities.

If you have to do any deburring/grinding in the venturi, dismantle the rest of the carb first, and use carb cleaner to clear the passages before reassembly so the fine grindings don't foul up other parts of the carburetor.

I don't recall whether or not they use a mechanical lock such as Loctite to secure those plate screws, but it would be worth checking to see if they do. Sorry, I don't know which type of Loctite would be indicated for that application.

~ Jim ~

Joystick TX

I don't see a spring on the choke plate shaft. Did you remove it?

KurtS

Nope, thats how it came.

I'll try try loosening the choke plate screw and see if it will come into alignment. Seems a little odd to me that I'm having to do this.

JeffinTD

Yeah it looked to me that the choke plate might not be centered in the bore? Could be loosening the screw, closing the choke fully and retightening the screw is all it needs.

KurtS

You guys were exactly right. I loosened the screw, the plate slid over, and now it closes perfectly. Thanks! Now maybe the little bugger will start without pulling the spark plug!

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

That's what these threads are all about. Sometimes it's just that easy, with a little help from your friends.

Good to hear you got it, KurtS.

Let us know how it starts and runs. If you have no spring on that plate, then I assume you're using a servo or mechanical means to hold it open once you're done choking it?

~ Jim ~

KurtS

Nope, the choke itself seems to have an internal detent that holds it open. I had a choke servo on the airplane originally, but the Tillotson carb has the choke lever on the opposite side and so I had to ditch the servo in favor of a manual pushrod.

Kurt

captinjohn

I hope you placed some thread-lock on the choke screw. If it comes out...it could wipe out your engine.

AGNI 5

What size of props are you guys running on the Syssa 30 ? My engine needed a fair amount of running in. At the moment it is running a18*x 8* and more than happy with the performance. The original Walbro 183A functions just fine after you become accustomed to it.and can be a pig if you have no patience.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Running an APC 18x6W for a Giant Sportster, which is admittedly a little on the heavy side for this engine. Lighter plane should have no trouble with an 18x8?

FlymoreRC

For a 26% Pilot Extra, I am using the VESS 18.5 x 5.5 from Syssa. Allows for smoother accelation and 3D control versus the VESS 18x6, which is what I use on a 1/4 Hanger 9 Super Cub.
Michael

JohnB96041

I have been using the 18.5 x 5.5 Vess prop and have the engine mounted on a Funtana 125. Great engine and airplane. Have 4 of the Funtanas. Also have a DLE 20cc mounted on one of the Funtana 125's. Both fly great, but I love the 30cc Syssa engine and how it performs.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Sounds like you're right in the ballpark, AGNI 5. From there, you can experiment and fine-tune. If you go to an 18 X 6 you'll have less speed but increased RPMs, which may or may not help your style of flying. The 18 X 8 increases the top-end speed, but lowers the low-end response, and can lug an engine if it hasn't the torque to pull the weight of the model through maneuvers. To be honest, the most notable effect that catches the eye of most guys at this point is that the 18 X 8 makes it land at a faster speed, and can make the model creep or roll on the ground at idle, especially at a paved field. What works perfectly for you or me may not do the trick for Al. So many factors are involved. For instance, I live in the desert here in San Antonio, Texas, which has an average altitude of 300 feet above sea level, so I run an 18 X 6 on mine. But, if I lived in Denver, the mile-high city, at that altitude I'd likely find my 18 X 6 props just beating the air in futility at the times when I need more traction, and go to the 18 X 8, or even an 18 X 10.

I do a lot of sport-flying, and medium-level aerobatics. I'm not obsessed with speed, and I don't have any altitude considerations. I also like most of my models to land slow and pretty, so I'm willing to give up some top-end speed to achieve that. I fly at a grass field, so traction is important on acceleration, but as I said, most of mine are sports or medium-level aerobatic birds, so they mostly have bigger wheels, plenty of wing, and lots of lift. I dabble very little in 3-D, so my choice ends up being the 18 X 6, which is the most-used prop for this engine. My preference in the 18 X 6 wood props is the XOAR, which isn't expensive, seems to hold up pretty well in most situations, and gives me plenty of power for my needs. I've got a Zinger 18 X 6 that I use as a spare, and it'll get me flying again without cutting my flying day short for a trip to the hobby store, but you immediately notice that the whole power band changes. Not quite as good, but it still flies and lands okay on my Giant Super Sportster, which is my favorite Sunday flyer bird. So, brand is also a real factor / consideration. The XOAR is pretty popular with the guys, as are a number of others.

Another consideration, which Al's post brought to mind. Plastic, or wood. The plastics tend to cost less, and have the advantage of being able to live through some degree of contact with the ground, but that also means that they'll hold up just fine if they ever contact YOU, and they can slice you to ribbons, with a whole lot of power swinging the blades. Especially APC props, which seem to come pre-sharpened from the factory. They scare me.

NONE of my gassers have plastic. All of my gasser props are wood. You can still get cut or break something, but a wood prop is more likely to break you or itself, which is preferable to having it carve off digits or large chunks of you. It only takes one time to leave you maimed.

Plastic props often have the advantage of lower prices, which makes them an attractive choice. They also come in configurations that aren't common or can be hard-to-get in wood props, such as 18.5, 19.5, X 8.5, X 9.5, etc. Carbon-fiber props give similar choices, but usually are so expensive that only the guys with very specific needs get them. 3-D flyers, for instance. They tend to dial-in their models very carefully, and very specific props are a critical factor for them.

Sorry to run on, but the truth is, there are so many factors that you really have to let your brain marinate in all the possibilities, so you can determine what your needs are. Or, you can spend a bunch of money and try a whole mess of different props. Some of the guys here have done that, too, and you can have some success with that.

User's choice!

~ Jim ~

trickpony4

My Feedback: (14)

My Syssa's love Xoar 18X6's