karolh

Sounds like the sun is about to burst through the cloudy Syssa skies ..... best of luck to all concerned.

FlymoreRC

While we wait for Steve to get up and running, I have a self help question.

Brought out my 26% Pilot Extra, and my Syssa would not start and run for crap. Ran about 4 Weeks agos. Naturally, everyone at the field said put in a new carb kit since the engine had not been worked on in over 4 years. It has been flown many many times over the past 4 years, year round as well.

So I got the kit (KT10WAT) blew it with cleaner and put in new diaphram and the butterfly gasket.

Now it needs 4 turns of low screw to start, back fires a lot, and won't run except at very high idle and up. Ignition seems ok, i have one of those do-hickies that simulates the hall sensor . Hall sensor wires look gook as well.

any ideas?

thanks, Michael

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

Have you checked the timing, and the plug?

Sounds like there could be some fuel blockage somewhere maybe.
Can you take the needles out and run fuel through?

FlymoreRC

Timing is ok , and a new plug was installled. My fear is that the ignition timing scheme in the ignition brick is failing. Not sure how it is programed.

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

One of mine acted like that.
Not sure where your engine falls in the manufacturing date scheme of things, but there was a bad run of woodruff keys way back that
booggered up the timing on my engine.

I'm grasping at straws, but it sounds familiar.
What is your timing set at, and how do you check yours?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Mine had a bad Hall effect sensor.

spaceworm

When you changed out the pump diaphragm did you clean the strainer screen in the carb? Do you have a filter in the feed line? Are there any air leaks in the feed line or bubbles in the line? Are the carb cover bolts tight and the carb mounting to the engine leak free? Is your fuel fresh? Good luck.

FlymoreRC

Thanks for your comments.

timeing is currently about 5m ahead of top dead center, such that the hall sensor is 5mm to the right of the Magnet when at top dead center. That should equate to 25 or so degrees.

cleaned every thing in the carb, short of popping all the plugs.

Of things should be different! Please chime in.

will inspect feul lines..

thanks, Michael

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

How many volts is the battery pack you're using for the spark? Sometimes the spark box can be affected by high voltage.

As far as the spark plugs go, make sure you try more than one extra plug. They seem to go out like women getting up to go to the bathroom. One decides to go, and they suddenly all have to go. With the spark plugs, just like with the women, there is no explanation for it. It just happens.

It's easy to eliminate the fuel system. Take a known good tank, and run the gas line directly to the carb, and test run the engine, even if you just have a friend hold it above the model from behind. If the engine starts and runs well, then you have your culprit. Then you have to troubleshoot your fuel system.

Be suspicious of every component in your gas system. Filters that can be unscrewed - ostensibly to clean them out at some point - are always highly suspect. They like to leak at the threads. Tees (or any other barbed fitting) in your line can let air bubbles in, and just a few bubbles can severely affect the running of the engine. Tightly sealed lines are critically important for gas engines. Any kind of fueler that is spring loaded can allow air in, as can anything that folds open. Only trust the fuel dots that have a solid plug that seals the line positively.

I hope this helps!

Jim

FlymoreRC

Jim,
you have some good points. I'll try the extra fuel tank to see if things change.

Ignition is getting about 5.2 volts. I use an IBEC. I put a voltage checker on it to see if it diminished during running, and it stayed at 5.2.

Re cleaning carb tonite, and double checking mountings, etc. I tend to think that an air leak is getting to it.

Anyone have experience with the double reed value. I can see it, but I am reluctant to remove it for messing up the gasket.

Michael

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

If you are using any sort of ignition safety device, that's also suspect. They can short-circuit. Take anything like that out of the circuit, bypass it, and see if the engine runs. Reduce to the simplest, most basic form, and if it works that way, add items back one by one until you find one that doesn't work. I'm talking battery switches, the works.

If you did have a problem with a double-reed, it would be the first time I heard of that being an issue with a Syssa. Unlikely, I would think.

I'm leaning toward an air leak in a fuel component, or a bad spark plug.

Al and I have a deep, long-standing distrust of spark plugs. You out there watching, Al?

Jim

bcchi

Are you sure you have the carb diaphragms and gasket in the correct order . On the pump side the cover with the one big screw the dia goes on carb body first and then gasket .On the Regulator side gasket goes on first and then the dia.A new carb kit should not make that much difference in needle settings.
BCCHI

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

This is the first I'd heard of carb settings that were changed.

If dramatic changes to the carb settings were required to make it run (probably to make it run AT ALL, and it probably didn't make it run very well), then it's almost certain that those settings were attempting to compensate for some kind of dramatic change in the fuel supply.

If so, it's almost a certainty that the new setting are compensating for air or a problem with the fuel lines.

Are you sure you don't have some sort of fueler in your gas system? Something that's supposed to make it easy to fuel your bird?

Other related possibilities: The gas line and the vent line got switched accidentally (CLASSIC, and most of us have done it at one time or another). Talk about making it run badly! That'll do it for sure! OR: Your pickup line fell off in the tank, or your pickup/clunk got jammed forward against the front of the tank during a rough landing or tip-over/noseover/sudden stop where it seemed that nothing really happened to the plane. When that happens, it runs good for a couple or a few minutes, then it acts like it's starving for fuel. Because it is!

Jim

Hog78

My Feedback: (36)

after 7 months I finally got my engine back. had to pay but it is back. it is now modified for a puller to remove the prop hub...

FlymoreRC

Thanks to all who contributed. All points were examined and re-examined.

Turns out, it was an intermitten failure of the ignition. How did I find this?
While bench testing parts of the ignition system, i was watching the spark plug ( Out of the engine ) as I flipped the prop and wiggled wires. Every so,often, it looked like no spark had occured. You know how you get memorized watching something. So I'd re try and the spark would occur. Hmmm? Is it just me?

hooked up a second ignition in parallel with first, put the two plugs side by side, and watched for two to occur. Low and behold, every so often, Syssa plug would not fire.

hooked up the extra ignition (an unused RCGF)!, and not it purrs like a kitten.

Now, should I stay with RCGF, or buy new SYSSA. Took two flights, flew like a new engine.

Michael

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Your ignition problem sounds like it may be just a bad plug cap. The silicone insulator inside the cap tends to break down over time and especially if the cap ever makes contact with the ground. The spark can then jump to the cap housing in an intermittent manner. You can replace the cap for $10 or so so it is a cheap test to see if that is the problem.

Regarding the RCGF ignition, it is probably the same Rcexl ignition provided by Syssa. No real need to buy a Syssa branded one if the RCGF is working for you.

AJsToyz

I see this thread is still alive, that's rare on its own!

Good to hear Todds getting help with his RC products, good engines but do need good support. I must have been one of the lucky ones, had a pretty easy time contacting, and getting parts from Todd. Got the chance to meet him in Toledo one year, nice guy.

Andy

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Michael, agree with TR. I wouldn't toss that ign. module until you try replacing the cap (especially if there was a less than graceful landing in it's recent history?). That will fix the majority of them. Meanwhile, the RCGF module can be used without issue. Nice job tracking your problem down.

Andy, haven't seen a response from you in quite a while. Getting back into it? -Al

AJsToyz

Hey Al how you been? Yeh been out of it and still no time. Mama wanted the kids in a school that had more to offer so we sold the place and moved. Insaline schools now, went from 12 acres to 1.5 but still close to the same club. Some one has tbere own field close by. I was in the yard and can hear what sounded to be at least 1/4 scale flying .

I have my Syssa boxed up with my Wild Hare Baby Edge, I have the AMR kit too I need to build. I need to construct a work area in the basenent. First I need to make room for this! Lol

Andy

FlymoreRC

well, finally found time to disassemble the sparkplug cap. There is a resistor in the wire just before the spring that contacts the plug. It was cracked/chipped on one end... To fix it, I'll have to find out what size the resistor is suppose to be.

JeffinTD

The whole spark plug cap assembly is like $10.

http://www.valleyviewrc.com/estore/e...plug-caps.html

Not difficult to replace.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Resistor is 1K, carbon composition type. Not a wound film resistor as is most common these days. I'd just buy a new cap but keep the old parts if you ever need them. You can buy the silicone insulator as a separate piece from CH.

Red Raider

My Feedback: (86)

Here's the latest update - as I said before, Todd has a new cylinder and it's already moved into the production stage. We have several hundred in the que ready for the final process which is the liner. We were trying to find a small shop that could do hard chrome on aluminum. There's no such thing. We refuse to do the China thing. U.S. Chrome stepped up and made us a decent offer for hard chrome. Then comes a new technology that we have to consider. Don't quote me on all this, because I don't know jack about what I'm talking about. (Todd does, he's the engineer). But, check this out - an electroless nitride diamond finish! I'm super excited about it. They put diamond powder in the nitride emulsion and then turn on the juice. I always wanted an engine with bling! What's better than an engine covered in diamonds? The first cylinders are due back next week. As soon as I get one, I'm going to install it on one of my engines and run the heck out of it. Todd is going to do the same. Looks like we might make our first of the year goal.

If any of you have any experience with this type of finish, let me know about it.
Happy flying, and Merry Christmas!!

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

The question is; is that finish on the cylinder or the exterior? All I know about diamonds is that, yes, they are hard, but industrially when they're attached to something their purpose is to create a cutting/grinding surface, because they are the hardest material around, and they are very sharp, and have lots of sharp little edges.
On the exterior, they would be glittery, but that doesn't seem like it would be what the cylinder itself needs for sealing piston rings against.

Red Raider

My Feedback: (86)

Seems as though there is a new technology. Once the cylinder is coated, the honing process takes care of all the issues you're talking about. Not real sure that there will actually be a glittery texture on the outside, the discussion about that was just banter about the contents of the finish emulsion. We will of course thoroughly vet the process but have extreme confidence that this is an amazing technology for our purposes. In the event that for some reason it doesn't meet our standards, we have the hard chrome option still available.