ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

That has the new fans on it, right? All of the NH air guard -135's have them that I see going in and out of Pease. Did you run the Syssa on a test stand?

petphotos

I live 20 miles from where the Syssa 180 is manufactured and have seen one at several meetings of the Simsbury RC Club. It looks like a real quality engine. I am just getting back into RC and into electrics, but I have a real appreciation of a fine engine. I can sure understand the cost savings in switching from glo to gas.

I anticipate seeing a lot of these flying this coming season.

Art

cmoulder

I experienced an issue with the engine running erratically/sagging when doing outside loops. In previous aerobatic models the problem was pressure changes inside the cowl affecting the little "ambient pressure sensor" (or whatever it's called... the little plate with the hole in it). It was cured by soldering a pressure fitting into the little hole and running a piece of fuel tube back into the fuselage.

I know this idea has been around a while, but if anyone is having similar problems this might work.

The header bolts kept loosening, so I drilled some holes through the bolt heads and made a spring clip from 5/64" piano... I hope this works because it's hard to wire the bolt heads when a header pipe is used.

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

If you use Nordlocks, you will eliminate the fasteners backing off. Very few people are familiar with them, since they are made in Sweden, but they work great. We use them on the race cars and I have been using them on my glow engines, in this case an OS 75 AX on a Seagull Extra.




http://www.nord-lock.com/video/nl_us.wmv

GoeKeli

My Feedback: (18)

Interesting, where to get in the USA?

Joe

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

I offer kits for the car stuff, like 12 and 14 mm, and these are 3 and 4mm on the OS. I just checked, the standoffs use the 4mm Nordlock, and the muffler uses a 5 mm. Maybe I will put together a Syssa kit.

MsgtRob

Cool video!
Could use these on the full scale models!
I'm in for a kit or two.....not that I can't safety wire..F-4 phantoms made me a safety wire "Picaso".
Sorry Todd, your wire looks nice but the non-standard pig tail is out of spec! LOL

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

I am a Mil-Spec guy, 20+ years in the Structures groups at LM and NGC (akaTRW then). The Nordlocks are real, and in an elevated temp environment where so called Locktite does not work, they do. We use them in lieu of safety wire on race car (2 piece) brake rotors that see 1500+F and I have no issues on the R/C engine exhausts. I will put together some Syssa and perhaps a DLE Nordlock kits.

mglavin

My Feedback: (31)

The Nordlocks are interesting… The testing of a bolt/nut in tension as shown is not exactly applicable to our specific application noted herein. Bolts-screws and SHCS are utilized typically to retain headers or mufflers on most gas engines. In this regard there is know NUT to vibrate loose, the bolt and nut are in tension as two individual components. A bolt-screw alone in tension is one component working with at least twice the mechanical interface/threads to secure itself. If a stud was used in the engine block the video test/example would be more accurate IMO.

I use internal serrated washers without issue for securing mufflers, headers and the like. I haven’t had a problem with regard to same that I can recall. I don’t use gaskets; a thin coat of hi-temp anaerobic gasket sealer is applied and allowed to partially set-up, snug it down allow to completely dry and then perform the final bolt tightening or torque requirements. Run the engine to allow a heat cycle and check the bolts again and its all good.

Thread lockers or adhesives can be problematic; there are many different brands with varying degrees of performance and or uses-applications. Review the specifications and or directions for your specific needs, this stuff is not all the same! They have fixture setting, stud setting and thread locking adhesives for small – medium – large hardware and high temp stuff too. A little of this is all that’s required, i.e. a small drop at best on a 5mm screw. And remember NEVER use a thread locking adhesive on any nylon-composite-plastic or similar material. The thread lockers are known to chemically react to these materials and structurally damage same.

The carb fuel pump/pressure diaphragm vent as noted is nothing new for experienced modelers. That said this anomaly (ever changing air pressure and its affect on the diaphragm) can cause an engine run lean or sag. Lean or sagging engines lead to problematic behavior as noted in previous posts.

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

True, you need to secure both the nut and bolt. They work by increasing preload on the fastener as it tries to back out because the ramp angle of the Nordlock is greater that the ramp angle of the screw. Early in my career, we had an issue with fasteners backing out during shock/vibe testing on a Titan 4 related product (lots of vibration), so I had a small fastener study sponsored by the USAF. We found thatstar washers do not work nor do the split spring washers, nor do most of the commercially available methods. For the exhaust on the Syssa, or the OS engines, where you have a socket head cap screw into a blind tapped hole, it is perfect. Where Nordlocks do not work is where the fasteners are trying to crush soft stuff like foam or balsa (like the canopy on my Extra).

cmoulder

I have never had a problem with muffler bolts for glow, so I am interested to see how they work out for gasser exhaust systems. I have indeed had those loosen up.

McMaster-Carr has [link=http://www.mcmaster.com/#nord-lock-washers/=5wjxnf]Nord-Lock[/link] washers, of course.

I hope my little piano wire clip works for a while.

cmoulder

I will order some just to try. Can't hurt and might well be the cat's meow for this problem!

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

I don't think you want to buy 100 of them, send me your address and I will send you a few to try.

cmoulder

Thanks much! Not sure of the size, but you have the engine and can verify. I think 4mm but that's a guess... same as "M4"?

Howard

My Feedback: (55)

You may find that your muffler SHCS are M5 as are the ones for my Zenoah 20ei and 26ei. The dimensions are going to make a difference as compared to finding a split washer that will fit the ramp up of the Nord Lock has to be greater than the ramp up of the thread pitch of the bolt you are going to use it on. If your SHCS begins to rotate the ramp up on the Nord Lock increases the tensile load and stops further rotation so it has to have a ramp up greater than the SHCS you are using it on. These washers are truly special.

Howard

cmoulder

OK, I have a Telemaster with the 20ei and indeed it appears to be identical. Interesting that those have never loosened up, with the normal washer/split washer.

You use the Nord Locks on yours?

DamonR

I spotted Todd and Al Syssa at the WRAM shoe at the Westchester County Center in New York today. Thought I would share...

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snt_90j5FYU[/youtube]

AMvdM

MicroFasteners in New Jersey carries the Nordlocks as Dynalock washers. 4mm size are $4.90 for 10 pairs.

wesaysoracing

i can tell you another place nordlocks dont work, they wont hold the teeth on the hammers on a morbark 7600 woodhog horizontal grinder

Howard

My Feedback: (55)

Cmoulder,

I drilled holes in the head of the SHCS and then used safety wire to keep them from loosening. I also use Permatex Ultra Copper high temp silicone gasket material (recommended by someone on RCU) that I purchased from my local auto parts house. I am not using Nordlocks at the moment because I was not sure where to buy them now that I know you can get them from Microfasteners I will get them on order. I checked and they do carry 5mm size (called Dynalock)

Howard

cmoulder

Howard, are you using a muffler or header? I noted the original safety wire that Syssa uses direct from the factory. Great for a muffler, but awkward at best with a header pipe, unless somebody knows how to fashion it properly with a pipe.

OK, Dynalock. Thanks, another name to look for!

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

We tried the knock off brand that Mc Master markets (13mm size), and they did not work well, I think mainly due to the hardness of them. I see Microfasteners has them down to 5mm, I have them in 3mm and 4mm. The Syssa exhaust is 5mm, but the standoffs are 4mm (M4 and M5). I use the 3mm for the smaller OS engines and aileron linkages. Now, it does not do any good to insure that one side does not back off so I made these for my OMP Edge. This way, the SHCS have the Nordlock under the head, and the "nut" in this case cannot back off. These little aluminum parts also spread the force over the hardwood engine mounts and weigh less (albeit a very little bit).

Howard

My Feedback: (55)

Bob,

I am using the stock G20ei muffler.

Howard

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

Here is the 4mm on my SAP-180. Another thing I do is to stripe the fasteners with a Sharpie or a Testor's paint stick (not shown here because I have not tightened everything yet). It adds zero weight, costs nothing, and allows you to see if there has been any rotation at a glance. It is very convenient at pre or post flight inspections.

FlymoreRC

Hello there;

I am finishing up a Syssa engine mount into a 26% Pilot RC Yak.
Thought those of you who might be looking at that combination might benefit from my work.
The firewall was moved back 1.25 inches so that the engine would mount at 6.25 Syssa standoffs and wouldmatch the cowl. I didn't want to cut into the firewall to accomodate the carb as the linkage and choke would have been interfered with.
Here are photos of the firewall setback, throttle linkage and cowl cutouts.