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DLE30!

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Old 09-10-2009, 04:16 PM
  #226
Speedy-Gonzales
 
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

Hey Jody! You can buy me a "cold one" if you like but I prefer mine to still be alive!

I'm trying to sell a few things right now. Might take me a week or two but I will reference my RCU member name on my order so you will know who I am. I can buy this engine direct from China for about $50 bucks less but prefer to buy in the USA for support and warranty repairs. I want this engine for either a clipped wing T-Craft or a Dynaflite Citabria. I'm looking for a classic airframe that is fully aerobatic but docile and adaptable for floats. These two fit that bill very well and the DLE-30 would be a perfect match for power on or off the water.

I just had a brainstorm....you don't have to worry about breaking the plug off when flying off water!!
Cool huh? [sm=thumbup.gif]

Will someone be offering a inverted Pitts style wrap around muffler for the DLE-30?

Speedy
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Old 09-10-2009, 04:30 PM
  #227
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

I love to fly off water, sounds like your going to some fun, I'm sure someone will come up with a pitts muffler, many of the muffler manufacturers will make one custom if you need it sooner. Give'em a little time, the engine hit the streets less than a month ago.
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Old 09-10-2009, 04:57 PM
  #228
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

Quote:
ORIGINAL: JNorton


Quote:
ORIGINAL: gen3v8

I hope i don`t wack my plug in my sea fury. Its been known to tip over ALL THE TIME. But one mod i made that will help i hope, is to put the nose weight at the bottom of the fuse rather than the top. 1 kg of weight in the bottom of the cowl instead of the top of it. What are your thoughts on this guys.
I do not like to put any weight on a cowl. There is a tendency for the cowl to break or to strip out the mounting screws. I'd much rather put the weight in a tray mounted underneath the motor.
John
I assumed he was putting the weight at bottom area of cowl. This may de do-able with weight held with stand-offs on engine mount, but allowing cowl clearance from weight. Hard to describe. Capt,n
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Old 09-10-2009, 05:31 PM
  #229
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!


Quote:
ORIGINAL: captinjohn

Quote:
ORIGINAL: JNorton


Quote:
ORIGINAL: gen3v8

I hope i don`t wack my plug in my sea fury. Its been known to tip over ALL THE TIME. But one mod i made that will help i hope, is to put the nose weight at the bottom of the fuse rather than the top. 1 kg of weight in the bottom of the cowl instead of the top of it. What are your thoughts on this guys.
I do not like to put any weight on a cowl. There is a tendency for the cowl to break or to strip out the mounting screws. I'd much rather put the weight in a tray mounted underneath the motor.
John
I assumed he was putting the weight at bottom area of cowl. This may de do-able with weight held with stand-offs on engine mount, but allowing cowl clearance from weight. Hard to describe. Capt,n
What the heck one more reply and then I'll stop. Try to fly the airplane without the cowl if the weight is in it, like you might want to do setting up the carb initially or troubleshooting cooling problems.
John
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Old 09-10-2009, 06:47 PM
  #230
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

Do you normally solder fuel barbs on the fuel tank brass tubing? I have heard you need to cause the line swells over time, and I have also heard to double zip it and it will stay secure.

How many people are using the NGK CM-6 plug?

Thanks
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Old 09-10-2009, 06:59 PM
  #231
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

Same question/answer, different forum.

I don't use barbs but I solder a small bead of lead around the tip of all the tubing ends and 1 zip tie has always been suficient for me. No CM-6 plugs here, stock DL plugs work great.
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Old 09-10-2009, 07:35 PM
  #232
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

Quote:
ORIGINAL: qspilotcmh

Do you normally solder fuel barbs on the fuel tank brass tubing? I have heard you need to cause the line swells over time, and I have also heard to double zip it and it will stay secure.

How many people are using the NGK CM-6 plug?

Thanks
I use fuel barbs, soldered, glue the fuel lines with medium CA, only the inside connections of the tank and use a single zip tie for each connection.
On the outside the same but then w/o CA and metal clamps in stead of zip ties. Zip ties is fine too.

And I replace everything every 8-12 months depending on usage. Don't wanna risk fuel delivery issues cause it'll most likely crash my planes.

And yes, for those few dollars I replace the plug. Again I don't want to take any risk. With my DL I had 2 dead stick in over 200 flights, once because I flipped the ignition switch and the other time I flipped the choke switch and I had to land the plane in high grass, damaging the wheel pants and cowling.
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Old 09-10-2009, 07:43 PM
  #233
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!


Quote:
ORIGINAL: jedijody

Same question/answer, different forum.

I don't use barbs but I solder a small bead of lead around the tip of all the tubing ends and 1 zip tie has always been suficient for me. No CM-6 plugs here, stock DL plugs work great.
Thanks. I ran a bead of solder around the brass tubing on both sides of the pickup line. I then filed it smooth and attached the fuel line with a zip tie. Looks good and it passed the sink test.
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Old 09-10-2009, 07:45 PM
  #234
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!


Quote:
ORIGINAL: mstam1971

Quote:
ORIGINAL: qspilotcmh

Do you normally solder fuel barbs on the fuel tank brass tubing? I have heard you need to cause the line swells over time, and I have also heard to double zip it and it will stay secure.

How many people are using the NGK CM-6 plug?

Thanks
I use fuel barbs, soldered, glue the fuel lines with medium CA, only the inside connections of the tank and use a single zip tie for each connection.
On the outside the same but then w/o CA and metal clamps in stead of zip ties. Zip ties is fine too.

And I replace everything every 8-12 months depending on usage. Don't wanna risk fuel delivery issues cause it'll most likely crash my planes.

And yes, for those few dollars I replace the plug. Again I don't want to take any risk. With my DL I had 2 dead stick in over 200 flights, once because I flipped the ignition switch and the other time I flipped the choke switch and I had to land the plane in high grass, damaging the wheel pants and cowling.
Thanks. I used a bead of solder. We only have a few months of good weather left so I will be sure to change out the line and inspect everything. Glad to hear the 2 deadsticks were pilot induced and not an engine problem!
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Old 09-11-2009, 06:04 AM
  #235
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

The weight was in the fuse , but at the top. Now i have added a dle30 ,removed an os 160. So i put the weight at the bottom of the fuse ,wich is in the cowl area , but fixed in the fuselage. Do you think this will stop the nose over tendancy.
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Old 09-11-2009, 06:16 AM
  #236
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!


Quote:
ORIGINAL: qspilotcmh

Do you normally solder fuel barbs on the fuel tank brass tubing? I have heard you need to cause the line swells over time, and I have also heard to double zip it and it will stay secure.

How many people are using the NGK CM-6 plug?

Thanks
qspilotcmh,

I have flown a gasser or two in my time and I have never had a fuel line come off. I use to use wire to secure the fuel line but in time it would cut into the line. Now a days all I use is one small zip tie and make sure it's tight. I use the fuel line for two seasons and then I change it all out for new. All the other ideas sound good but I have never had a need to do anything else.
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Old 09-11-2009, 11:03 AM
  #237
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!


Quote:
ORIGINAL: gen3v8

The weight was in the fuse , but at the top. Now i have added a dle30 ,removed an os 160. So i put the weight at the bottom of the fuse ,wich is in the cowl area , but fixed in the fuselage. Do you think this will stop the nose over tendancy.
It will probably help it some but it won't stop it, man, 2-1/4 pounds of ballast, that's just crazy.
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Old 09-11-2009, 08:00 PM
  #238
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

Do you have in pix ref the carb return spring removal
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Old 09-11-2009, 08:24 PM
  #239
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!


Quote:
ORIGINAL: jedijody


Quote:
ORIGINAL: gen3v8

The weight was in the fuse , but at the top. Now i have added a dle30 ,removed an os 160. So i put the weight at the bottom of the fuse ,wich is in the cowl area , but fixed in the fuselage. Do you think this will stop the nose over tendancy.
It will probably help it some but it won't stop it, man, 2-1/4 pounds of ballast, that's just crazy.
I have curred all my airplanes that want to nose over by slanting the gear on a much more forward angle. You will be amazed how good that works. If the axle is about at the leading edge of wing....try to get 1 1/2 inches more forward with that axle. Capt,n
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Old 09-11-2009, 08:48 PM
  #240
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

I know the amount of weight is crazy but its needed to balance the model. It consists of battery packs rather than dead weight or lead.

The rear of my retracts has been packed as much as possible to move the gear forward. I hope the change in moment of the weight will help.
The other thing is the os160 was horizontal and the dle30 is inverted.
Some pics anyway
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Old 09-11-2009, 08:58 PM
  #241
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

Nice Warbird

Who makes that kit? Very sharp.
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Old 09-11-2009, 08:59 PM
  #242
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

Noyce mate, noyce.
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Old 09-11-2009, 09:04 PM
  #243
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Bosco2

Nice Warbird

Who makes that kit? Very sharp.
ESM its an oldie No more $5 a tank to fill either
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Old 09-11-2009, 09:06 PM
  #244
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

Is it possibe to move the engine forward as much as possible to help balance and at same time get rid of any added weight. The cowl may need to slide forward too. this is just a idea....I cannot tell by photo what is possible to try. Can yo take a photo with cowl off also? Capt,n
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Old 09-11-2009, 10:01 PM
  #245
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

I have moved the engine forward more than before by about 1/4 inch. Originally i had 2x 4cell sub c packs up front,mounted in the top of the fuse. Now there is 1x 4cello sub c, ignition, and 2x 2cell 2300 a123 flight packs mounted in the bottom of the fuse.
I dont know if you can see in the previous pic post but it has 55mm stand offs.
I just got my wife to help me do a balance check and it was slightly nose heavy. So i can reduce the battery weight. I will change the flight packs too 2x1100 a123 packs also keeping them low.
I just ran the motor for the first time. It started in 5 flicks. I pull the plug out and make sure the ign is off, open the throttle to full and turn the choke on. Then i turn it over with a slow cordless drill untill it drips out the plug hole. Then i open the choke turn it over another couple of seconds. Give it a few flicks ,put the plug in and bingo it starts quick if your idle speed is close.
Thanks for all the advice its appreciated.
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Old 09-11-2009, 10:19 PM
  #246
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

Idle on 2nd start
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Old 09-11-2009, 11:10 PM
  #247
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

Nice bird! Looks like you got your 30 purring well too. [sm=thumbs_up.gif]
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Old 09-12-2009, 06:42 AM
  #248
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

Just got my DLE30 and it looks good. Should I remove the throttle spring?
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Old 09-12-2009, 07:31 AM
  #249
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

Do not remove the spring just unhook it.
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Old 09-12-2009, 11:47 AM
  #250
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

any one have a close up pix of the unhooked throttle spring
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